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golfers games suffer , why?


Bruiser

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All the heads have come a long way. Very forgiving. Ones is as good as another.

 

The shaft fitting for woods sucks. Big companies don't care. They are interested in Moving product.

 

I played with and watched a good golfer hit the ball yesterday. He had a 120 mph swing speed and was only 20 yards past me at 73 yrs old on the drives.

 

Why, his ball was teed to high and he had the wrong shaft. It was ballooning like crazy and going no where with that swing speed.

 

 

I fit tour players that know absolutely nothing about equipment or fitting either.

 

Swing speed times 1.5 should be your ball speed.

If it is not, you have the wrong equipment and ball.

 

How high you tee the ball, helps determine spin. Very important to get it right.

 

When you see your drives Climbing up fast and falling suddenly out of the air. Bad spin.

 

Ball is very important.

 

How did I fix these problems.

 

By testing my driver shafts with real golfers. I found out things about drivers shafts that go completely against manufactures recommended instructions on assembly.

 

I found that at one tipping point on a regular and stiff wood shafts, either one or the other will fit 95 % of all golfers for DRIVERS AND FAIRWAY woods.

 

Outstanding performance resulting from just a 1/2" more tip.

 

It works and would never learned this if I was a follower.

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So what about club heads which are not designed to be tipped, pops? 

 

I don't really know where to begin with how wrong you are with your blanket statement about alleged fitting (or indeed if you are joking) so I might as well declare myself out of this debate before it even starts.

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So what about club heads which are not designed to be tipped, pops? 

 

I don't really know where to begin with how wrong you are with your blanket statement about alleged fitting (or indeed if you are joking) so I might as well declare myself out of this debate before it even starts.

I knew this could get fun as soon as I read the original post.

 

Jas, Bruiser seems to be an okay guy who has engaged in other shaft is where it's at discussions in the past. As one who thinks its both but doesn't have the technical acumen to enter a debate I'd love to see it transpire so please don't disengage on this one. It's how a guy like me learns.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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So what about club heads which are not designed to be tipped, pops? 

 

I don't really know where to begin with how wrong you are with your blanket statement about alleged fitting (or indeed if you are joking) so I might as well declare myself out of this debate before it even starts.

Please.... DO get in the discussion! Like Rev, I want to learn more about this subject. 

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All the heads have come a long way. Very forgiving. Ones is as good as another.

 

The shaft fitting for woods sucks. Big companies don't care. They are interested in Moving product.

 

I played with and watched a good golfer hit the ball yesterday. He had a 120 mph swing speed and was only 20 yards past me at 73 yrs old on the drives.

 

Why, his ball was teed to high and he had the wrong shaft. It was ballooning like crazy and going no where with that swing speed.

 

 

I fit tour players that know absolutely nothing about equipment or fitting either.

 

Swing speed times 1.5 should be your ball speed.

If it is not, you have the wrong equipment and ball.

 

How high you tee the ball, helps determine spin. Very important to get it right.

 

When you see your drives Climbing up fast and falling suddenly out of the air. Bad spin.

 

Ball is very important.

 

How did I fix these problems.

 

By testing my driver shafts with real golfers. I found out things about drivers shafts that go completely against manufactures recommended instructions on assembly.

 

I found that at one tipping point on a regular and stiff wood shafts, either one or the other will fit 95 % of all golfers for DRIVERS AND FAIRWAY woods.

 

Outstanding performance resulting from just a 1/2" more tip.

 

It works and would never learned this if I was a follower.

Interesting. I want to get fitted just for this reason. I feel that most places just want to fit heads and not shafts. 

At least my experience in big box stores was this.

 Driver:   :callaway-small:  Epic Flash 12 Degree

Wood: :callaway-small:  GBB 3 Wood
Hybrid: :callaway-small: Razr 4 hybriid stiff stock shaft.
Irons: :callaway-small: X2 Hot 4 iron (pro version) 5 iron - Gap Wedge (non pro version).  KBS 120g Shaft stiff cut 1/2  inch bent 1°upright
Wedges: :vokey-small: 52° 56° and 60°.
All grips are Golf pride grips midsized
Putter (lefty):  Odyssey Metal-X #8 34", stock shaft bent 2° Superstroke grip
Golf Balls:   :titelist-small: 2018-9 Pro-V1x and Prov1s
Shoes:  :footjoy-small:  Dryjoy tours

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I have an Amp Cell Pro with a shaft that just works for me. It feels right, sounds right, great flight and good distance, misses are almost always in play.

 

I got a Bio Cell Pro, very similar style head. I knew the shaft that came with it probably wouldn't work. But I can plug the shaft from the ACP right into it. Swing weight comes out very close. Feels completely different. Never got comfortable with it and was shorter than the ACP. Put a different shaft in and it was an improvement, but I keep going back to the ACP.

 

I'll still hold on to that BCP. Maybe I'll click with it at some point. But how can it feel so different with the same shaft and virtually the same swing weight?

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