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Hello Again Fellas...


Sschaffer24

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Man does life get in the way of some things.

 

To put it bluntly, I've missed you guys. Haha.

 

After all of my joy on twitter over the weekend watching my dear Raiders crush the Chargers, Barbara hit me up and asked me where I've been.

 

The answer is I've been swallowed up in life. New responsibilities at my job, business picking up, all of that good stuff. Positive changes.

 

But with that being said, I've decided to make a concerted effort to get more involved here again. Hence, this thread.

 

At this point a lot of you are probably wondering why this is under the equipment section. Simple answer, it's equipment related! Haha.

 

So I've had my Hogan's for a large portion of the season and as most of you guys know, I'm completely hooked on these clubs. They're just so darn accurate.

 

I've been having lessons every two weeks all summer long, have been monitoring my strike, the whole nine yards.

 

Here's my problem and here's where I am. I don't hit them far enough. Not nearly. I've been on a launch monitor and compared them with other irons out there (pretty much the whole Mizuno line outside of the 850.)

 

I spin them like crazy, and just don't get enough distance for my swing. I know I have a power leak somewhere, and my instructor and I are working on finding where that is and how to correct it (basically a reverse pivot) and hopefully that will get these irons where I need to be.

 

What's so interesting is that I genuinely hit these things as straight as an arrow. My dispersion is extremely tight, impact is tight on the face (if anything I miss in the heel on occassion) and overall carry distance stays pretty constant.

 

I just don't hit them far enough. I'm excited to be able to report back to here over the next couple of weeks my side by side comparisons on all of the irons out there on a launch monitor. The plan that we have is to basically hit every iron on the market (within reason) throughout the winter, and compare distances throughout the models. My goal is to come back here and share with you guys how the different irons out there stack up.

 

So you'll be able to see the true differences over time on how for example a Ben Hogan FT. Worth iron compares to a Big Bertha iron. I'm going to do my best attempt to keep lofts within range of each other, so the numbers are as true as possible.

 

It should be interesting though!

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Good to see you back in the swing of things so to speak (pun intended LOL).  Glad to see life is going good for you. Now I will give you an opinion on distance on your irons. You say you hit them straight and that is a good thing especially with the "scoring irons" remember I hit antique traditional lofted irons and it does not make one iota to me if say a person hits his jacked loft PW as far as I do my 8 iron even if I out drive him off the tee by 15 yards. Now if you are not getting the distance to fit your game with the long irons may I suggest maybe lofted fairway woods (my preference) or a hybrid. Actually build you a combo set of your own liking from the 5 or 6 iron down. Sounds to me like you hit the Hogan irons too good to just dismiss them

Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex- 5W TM V-Steel Fubuki 60r--- 7W TM V-Steel UST Pro Force Gold 65R----- 9 W TM V Steel TM MAS stiff---- Irons 2015 TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R--- GW Callaway Mack Daddy 2 52* shaft unknown junk pile refugee. SW Callaway PM Grind 56*  Modified sole grind--- KBS Tour Wedge-- LW Vokey 58* SM5 L grind--- Putter Ping B90I Broom Stick 

 

 

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Welcome back! So when you say you don't hit them far enough how far are we talking here?

Driver:   :callaway-small: Epic 10.5 set to 9.5 w/ Tour AD-DI 44.5

FW:   :cobra-small: F6 baffler set at 16º

Hybrid:  NONE
Irons:   :taylormade-small:  3i 2014 TP CB  4-PW 2011 TP MC w/ TT S400

Wedges:   :nike-small: 52º :nike-small: 56º  :edel-golf-1: 60 º w/ KBS C-Taper XS Soft-stepped

Putter:   :ping-small: Sigma G Tyne 34 inches Gold dot

 

 

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Thanks guys! Very much. I guess giving some more details here would be important.

 

Basically, I was carrying my 37 125 yesterday. Which is ridiculous because I carry my wedges not much shorter than that. Now these distances are also assuming sea level, I golf in a higher elevation, so my true distance would probably be a little further. But as a baseline that's what my 37 was doing.

 

The issue isn't with feeling powerful. My game is not a power game at all. I'm all about shot shaping, positioning, and short game play. My short game is absolutely the strongest part of my game, so I try to accentuate it.

 

That being said the problem I run into is that when playing longer courses (or even mid length courses) I find myself having to lay up on par 4's and if not hitting too long of irons into greens, which effects my dispersion (long and short). So I'm throwing away strokes.

 

My build type wouldn't make you think I swing the club slowly (I don't really, I'm not a high speed player, but not slow either). It's basically an issue of the type of club they are.

 

Being a blade and having the CG higher in the head these things spin too much. My numbers are all good. Angle of attack, path, face to path, face contact, and really swing speed are pretty good for where I should be.

 

What my plan is to basically put the hogans up to a test side by side with all different types of irons that are out there, and to basically really see if all of the different technologies have a noticeable difference in my game. Does a big Bertha iron outperform a similarly lofted hogan for me? If so, how? How about the Apex? I series? G30? G Max? AP1/2? All of those.

 

My instructor and I plan on testing head to head with these clubs all winter long, and I plan on reporting back. While simultaneously trying to work on fixing my power leak.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

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I agree with Stu, but I must be missing something.  Without knowing how you measured your distances and the data between tour clubs, there is something wrong if you are hitting your wedge almost as far as your 37.  Where does the 41 fit in?  Are you calling it a wedge? To me that is a 9i and my 9i is a 42 SCOR.  Is it the same distance as your 37?  I would start with determining your yardage gaps between all clubs, and I would do this outdoors if possible.  I know there aren't many good golfing days left there, but maybe you can find an empty course, head to a Par 5, hit several balls with a club, measure the average of the good strikes, then repeat with the next club.  If there is an issue with gaps between clubs, you need to know that and determine the cause.  I'm sorry, but I don't trust machines to tell me this.

 

You say that they spin too much.  What's too much?  "Being a blade and having the CG higher in the head," they should spin less, not more, but compared to what??  If they are spinning too much, then ball flight should be really high.  Not really a bad thing!  That can be controlled by the shaft.  

 

I like the idea of comparing the Hogans to other irons, but I also think that differences in shafts will play a big factor in the results, not just head differences.  I would be careful about making any decisions based the results.  If the Hogans are as accurate as you say, those are the clubs I would be playing.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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So a little more detail about my game. When I'm playing on the course, these are the distances I use and rather effectively.

 

61- 75

57- 85

53- 95

49- 105

45- 115

41- 125

37- 135

33- 145

29- 155

25- 165

19* Hybrid- 185

3 Wood- 200

Driver- 230

 

All of those are ranged values a little bit, but that is a consistent set of distance numbers for me.

 

The problem in my set isn't anything to do with the irons, it's the problem of me hitting too many 29/25's into greens OR having to lay up and hit a short iron in.

 

At my age and swing speed my numbers should be about 15-25 yards further on each club. I know a high portion of that can be corrected with my swing being worked on, but also some inconsistencies on long and short distances (because of strike, it's not wild but these do have a slight drop off on mishits).

 

The spin comment comes from a few things. I commonly see my ball elevate, have a nice boring trajectory and then look like it almost stops dead and drops short out of the air. After talking with my instructor, he's saying that's from too high of spin. They just run out of juice. The launch monitor shows my spin numbers to be high (7-8k with my 29) and I do know I put a ton of spin of the ball from how my ball reacts into greens. I never get roll. Which I'm okay with.

 

The comment about the CG is actually correct from my understanding. If you hit below a CG it will add vertical spin (backspin) to the ball because of gear effect, the same way where by hitting above the CG lowers spin. That's why the SLDR type drivers are so low spinning because the CG is lower than where you hit the ball.

 

A blade is known to have a higher CG than say a Gmax, which is why (with a consistent strike) the blade will have higher spin numbers than the lower CG club. That's just where my comments came from! Haha.

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:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

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If you've been taking lessons all summer why are you still doing the reverse pivot? Yeah I know.... old habits are hard to cure sometimes. But the RP is one of the death moves. You have to stop it. I pretty much think all irons are accurate assuming they are fit and properly adjusted. It's the person swinging them that's not accurate. And that includes me. Based on your initial post It sounds to me like you need more (or maybe less) swing coaching. Perhaps even a new instructor? No irons in the world are going to correct poor swings. (I've tried it) Get that swing fixed. You'll see a much improved game. Rather quickly. Sorry if I harshed your Friday morning.

My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

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PJ said it. The reverse pivot IS your power leak. It may not be the only one, but if your instructor is "trying to find the leak" and you already know you do a reverse pivot, what is he looking for?

 

I never had a rev pivot, but I used to be pretty steep with my irons, had a high ball flight and tons of spin. I was pretty accurate with my irons, but always faded to sliced my driver. A simple change for me got rid of any over the top I had and shallowed me out. My driver is pretty straight now, (what little I've played over the last year and a half), my irons haven't been as accurate as they used to be and the spin came way down. I have the wrong shafts for how I swing now. But I don't blame the heads.

 

Like PJ said, fix your death move, then play with equipment changes.

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For starters it's great to have you back!

 

What your narrative describes and your numbers show are a bit different. Narrative wise I was thinking that your concerns are spot on for a higher handicapper using a player's iron. Short irons will be fine but at some point issues pop in.

 

If the numbers are accurate though I'm struggling to see what the big deal is. They are strikingly similar to mine except that I use hybrids at 29/25 and 5 wood at 19 and I'm about 10 yards shorter with driver. Remember I play at Sea level. So with those numbers I can break 80 consistently when I'm playing well and I'm on the proper set of tees. In fact with those numbers I've broken 70 from 6,300 yards in competition.

 

So perhaps the issue actually is that you are playing the wrong set of tees if you are finding yourself laying up on par 4's frequently.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Sorry double post, grandkids are visiting. I'm ready for a nap and its 10:30 AM!

 

 

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Glad to see you back man.

 

Your iron distances seem to make sense based on the distances of your longer clubs. If the swing issue is a reverse pivot, you'll see increases in all your distances. I had the same issue when I first started taking lessons a few years back. Since I corrected it my distances have gone up substantially.

 

I'm sure that with hitting super game improvenent irons you'll see an increase in distance in your irons, but if the distances at the top end of your bag stay the same then what's the point?

 

Also, have you tried different iron shafts during a fitting session?

Driver -  :taylormade-small: M1 9.5* w/ Aldila Rogue Silver 70X

Fairway -   :taylormade-small: M1 5W 19* w/ Aldila Rogue Silver 70X

Hybrids -   :ping-small: G25 4H 23*

Irons -  :mizuno-small: JPX 850 Forged 4-PW w/ Nippon N.S. Pro 1150S

Wedges - :mizuno-small: S5 50*07, 54*12, 58*12 w/ Nippon N.S. Pro 1150S

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Like Rev said, you're numbers are actually pretty close to mine, which is probably frustrating for someone younger than us - lol

 

 

 

That said, the short game is where the scoring is improved.

 

Fix your reverse pivot, and you've got a great game!

 

Also, like jbil8802 said, maybe a different shaft is a better match for you.

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Driver - :callaway-small: GBB 

Hybrids  :cleveland-small: Halo XL Halo 18* & :cobra-small: T-Rail 20*

Irons  :cobra-small: T-Rail 2.0

Wedges :ping-small: 60* TS / SCOR 48* 53* 58*

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As everyone has said, it looks like the RP is killing your distance in all clubs.  Now that I see the data,  I think the irons look pretty good and distance will improve with the swing change.  The point I was getting to was the shaft.  You don't say what your swing speed is other than "pretty good."  Your iron distances seem to be comparable to us old guys; sorry about that, but our swing speed isn't what it used to be either.  :)  

 

I went to regular flex steel years ago, then regular flex graphite not long ago.  It has maintained some distance as my swing speed decreased with age.  The shaft can have a big influence on distance, ball height and ball spin.  This is why the comparison between club brands should be considered lightly because differences will be more than just club head.  

 

I know that the Hogan fitting probably put you into the shaft you have, but I would want to know if that shaft is giving you the best fit.  I hope you can find a Hogan fitter close by; nothing in my area for 500 miles!  THIS is why I will not buy the Ben Hogan clubs until I can compare my SCOR graphite shaft with their graphite equivalent.  It has to be as good as the SCORs or I am not getting it.  From what I have read about their stock UST Recoil shaft, I don't think it will fit my swing, but I am willing to give it a try.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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Well I think we have decided that the reverse pivot is definitely NOT a good thing. That being said I need to embellish on a few things.

 

First off, at the beginning of the year I had a reverse pivot on basically every golf shot I hit. Nothing good came from that. Over the course of this season I have been working extensively with my instructor to kill that part of my game, and I largely have (most of the time). What I was referencing in a different post is that IF I have a death move flare up it is the reverse pivot. I can feel myself get out of the shot and when that happens, I know it's reared it's ugly head.

 

But by no means does it happen on all, or even most of my shots. Just like the occasional fat/thin shot that we hit. 

 

That being said, here's why a different shaft hasn't been considered (more on this when I talk about test irons later). Basically looking at numbers over a computer, without ever seeing my swing doesn't tell a whole story. Based on my transition and feel, the weight of the heavier shafts has always been what I am fit into. The Mizuno shaft optimizer has traditionally done something like DG Gold/KBS Tour/C Taper for me. 

 

We are however also trying different shaft options while I am doing my tests. I've hit the C Taper, C Taper lite, KBS Tour, DG Gold, I am going to hit the DG XP's, and may even test out some graphite options. 

 

Basically I'm not locked into anything. Don't want to be. I LOVE my Hogan's and unless something really blows me away I am going to keep rocking them. However having to pull out a 29 (5/6 iron) on most par 4's when guys I am playing with are hitting 8/9 irons into the green is a huge disadvantage. Do I feel that the iron heads are going to make a huge difference? Heck no. But the goal is to see if they DO make a difference.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that while I am testing these clubs out I am also taking a lesson. So we are working on correcting issues while I am there.

 

The model we have been following is this. Basically build a consistent swing that is repeatable and then once I'm comfortable with that (where I am today) work to add power.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

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:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

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Also I will say this.

 

If bright pink shafted, ladies flex irons with shovels for a club head allowed me to play my best golf, I can guarantee they would be in my bag.

 

All I would be worried about is getting a bag and an outfit to match the set.

 

So what I'm gaming doesn't matter to me. I just want what works for my game. 

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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I know it's a stupid question but I will ask - I'm assuming you are talking about from the same spot.  Someone is hitting 8 iron from the same spot that you are hitting your 29?

 

My son hits it between 3/4 clubs longer than I do and I know a few other guys who hit it as long as he does.  I'll have plenty of shots tomorrow where he will have a short iron and I'll be looking at hybrid or fairway wood.  I'll also drill him.  It will have nothing to do with the clubs that I use - the fact is his club head speed is 120 or so with a driver while mine is in the low 90's on a good day.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Had the same issue when I got my AP2s and a simple shaft swap to X100s and the problem was fixed. Funny that I have the exact opposite problem with my Hogans in that they fly too far or more appropriately a club longer than I am used to. I am not saying to change them up but I would look at the shafts hard as you go through your lessons as that may just be the answer.

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Rev,

 

Yeah I'm referencing from the same spot. Haha. And there are no stupid questions!

 

I know distance isn't everything. I'm completely and totally aware of that. But, it IS something. And I feel that it's important for me to try and maximize what I can, because that in itself is going to help to lower my scores tremendously. My abilities with the scoring clubs are my strengths. So if I can have more opportunities with those in my hands, that's what I want!

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
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Here's a question for you guys, since shaft is something we are considering here, how would you guys test the new shaft? I obviously won't be able to reshaft the Hogan's to test each option out there.

 

The logical thing would be to find a similar head to the Hogan (something Mizuno, MP25?) and to try the various shafts in that specific club. Any other ideas?

This isn't a right now thing for me, and we may come back and realize that the Hogan's as they sit are perfect, but I'm excited to really take my time and find the perfect setup for my bag. Whatever that is.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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I think you had a good relationship with people at Ben Hogan Golf.  I would call them up and ask if they still have that 3-club trial where you pay for shipping.  Ask if you can get three 29 clubs (or whatever loft you choose) with shafts different than yours.  I would tell them what your concern is and let them decide which shafts might be best.  If nothing else, you will see how the head reacts for your swing with four different shafts.  If they still do that trial, then you are only out the shipping cost.  Well worth it in my opinion.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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That's an awesome idea Kenny. I never would have thought of that. I'll have to check their website out and see what they offer.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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I'm having a difficult  time understanding your iron distances based on a 230 yard drive very comparable to my own. 

 

13º driver _______230

18º fwy wd.______215

23º fwy wd.______200 

28º FW15_______185

33º FW15_______170

38º FW15_______155

43º FW15_______140

48º FW15_______125

53º TK15 _______110

58º TK15 _______ 95

 

You're clearly younger than my children, never mind me, and you can bang your big dog every bit as hard as I hit mine, most likely harder without getting the results that you should.

 

I respectfully disagree with the poster who opines that your iron yardages are commensurate with that 230 yard drive.  Internet forum yardages notwithstanding, 230 is a good poke. 

 

I'm guessing that your iron shafts are both too stiff and too tip firm.  That's good for accuracy, but t's killing your length.

 

I'm seeing other iffy gear choices too. 

 

People who hit 230 yard drives are not going to push a 15º 3-wood to the top of its intended trajectory  which occurs pretty far down the line.  I would bet anything that you'd hit an 18º fairway wood longer.

 

Since you get good distances with woods, why a hybrid instead of a seven-wood?  

 

Also, those of us who hit 230 yard drives don't need to start our irons at 25º.  The same problem with the three wood occurs here. We don't hit a 25º to the top of its intended trajectory because it occurs too far down the line.

 

With the right shaft, a kid who can bang his drive 230 will hit that next iron, 29º in your case, about thirty yards further than you're doing now, or about as far as you now hit that 19º hybrid --185?

 

You're not slight of strength if you're hitting that driver 230.  It's probably a 10.5, and you're probably hitting it hard enough  that if it were a 13 or 14 like mine, it would have gone 245. 

 

 

 

 

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It's actually a 9 degree G30 turned down .6 of a degree or whatever it is.

 

The distance I'm absolutely positive of is my driver distance and my wedge distances that I have listed. Those are not an issue for me whatsoever. It's as soon as I move into anything I put a full swing on. Nifty I appreciate your advice because honestly whatever changes I have to make to see the differences on the score card are what I'm looking for.

 

Checking out a new shaft seems like an important thing to consider. Accuracy and shot shaping ability are not issues at all. My instructor couldn't believe how I wasn't able to consistently be in the 70's with how I hit it in my lessons. Course management isn't an issue for me. I play very conservative, and don't give up shots really. It's my lack of distance that is killing me.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

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To elaborate on my driver loft, I hit up on the ball quite well, and tend to see too much of a ballooning effect when I move to a higher lofted driver. I played a 12 degree SLDR last year and didn't hit it nearly as far as my G30 because of the loft difference.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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From what I am reading and remember I am not a swing guru but I think most of it can be as PJ says the reverse pivot. It will kill you and make you baloon the ball thus creating too much spin and losing distance. From what I can gather and see from your pic you are a big guy like me. Us big guys have trouble getting the lower body to work. i say concentrate on less lower body movement and do a big shoulder turn. That will help you rotate through the ball. Four good swings to look at on U-Tube and do not laugh-- Pat Hurst she makes the best shoulder turn in golf IMHO--- Brendon Dejong, Kiradesch Alphabarnrat and Big Momma Laura Davies. Get the basic swing straightened out and then go from there Good Luck

Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex- 5W TM V-Steel Fubuki 60r--- 7W TM V-Steel UST Pro Force Gold 65R----- 9 W TM V Steel TM MAS stiff---- Irons 2015 TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R--- GW Callaway Mack Daddy 2 52* shaft unknown junk pile refugee. SW Callaway PM Grind 56*  Modified sole grind--- KBS Tour Wedge-- LW Vokey 58* SM5 L grind--- Putter Ping B90I Broom Stick 

 

 

 G

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Stu is absolutely right. Reverse pivots wreaks havoc with distance and causes ballooning.

If that's what's going on, it's an easy fix with potentially dramatic improvement available. 

Have it checked out.

 

Also, try a less different driver swing from your normal swing. Don't play the ball so far left in your stance, and don't tee it too high with a more generously lofted driving club. By the time you hit up on a ball, your swing speed is already decreasing.

 

 

 

 

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I was re-reading this thread last night and have another simple suggestion. Try the full-finger grip. It's commonly referred to as the 10-finger grip. Don't laugh. I recently started a post on my recent discovery using the full grip. Quite frankly it's been an immediate success. I started doing this as a joke one day recently on the practice tee before a round. I thought I was making a funny with some of my buddies. Well.... it's been an awesome discovery. My ball striking has dramatically improved and... you'll like this sschaffer; i've gained distance!. I haven't taken the time to actually measure how much more distance I've gained but based on what I already know I'd say anywhere from 8-10 yards. (irons only)

This method of griping the club may not be for everyone or you even but; neither is the overlap or interlock grip. You have nothing to lose. Just try it and let us know.

My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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PJ,

 

Ironically enough I switched to a 10 finger grip in the middle of the summer and have seen the same results as before. My shot shape, trajectory, accuracy and distance all improved. I just immediately feel more comfortable using that grip, which I believe stems from my history with baseball.

 

That being said, I've already been using that and am still having some distance issues. 

 

I know the reverse pivot is a bad move, but I just want to stress this again, I'm not doing it on even half of my shots. My guess would be maybe 25% of my shots? So it's not a predominant swing flaw. And it is something I can correct. 

 

Even with that, and when I'm hitting the ball appropriately, I'm still hitting the ball roughly these distances.

 

So there is a bigger thing missing here. Also people were wondering about my swing speed. With my 29 (basically a 6 iron) I'm right around 75MPH.

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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Also,

 

one thing that can never be told through text is the tone someone is speaking in, I just want everyone here to know I'm very appreciative of all of the advice and am in no way talking condescending!

:titelist-small: TS3 8.75 with HZRDOUS Yellow and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:callaway-small: XR 16 3W & 5W with HZRDOUS Red shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:srixon-small: U65 4i with Fujikura MCI shaft and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: AP3 5-PW with Accra Tour 110i shafts and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:titelist-small: SM7 50F, 54S and 60M grinds with Dynamic Gold 120 Tour Issue S400 and Black MicroPerf Best Grips.

:bettinardi-1: Queen B #6 with 34" Stability Shaft and P2 Aware Tour Grip.

:titelist-small: Pro-V1 Golf Ball.

Jones Utility Golf Bag.

Dormie Custom Headcovers.
Bushnell Pro X2 Laser Rangefinder.

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PJ,

 

Ironically enough I switched to a 10 finger grip in the middle of the summer and have seen the same results as before. My shot shape, trajectory, accuracy and distance all improved. I just immediately feel more comfortable using that grip, which I believe stems from my history with baseball.

 

That being said, I've already been using that and am still having some distance issues. 

 

I know the reverse pivot is a bad move, but I just want to stress this again, I'm not doing it on even half of my shots. My guess would be maybe 25% of my shots? So it's not a predominant swing flaw. And it is something I can correct. 

 

Even with that, and when I'm hitting the ball appropriately, I'm still hitting the ball roughly these distances.

 

So there is a bigger thing missing here. Also people were wondering about my swing speed. With my 29 (basically a 6 iron) I'm right around 75MPH.

From what I am reading I think you are not making a good shoulder turn and binding yourself up. A lot is made of Swing speed but I do not nesscarily subscribe to all of that. Not making a good turn on the ball will throw a big guy off bad and also cause balance issues as in your reverse pivot or hang back on the rear foot. i went through that myself a few years ago as I aged and had gained a lot of weight. I ended up loosing a lot of weight about 40 pounds but the main thing was under my Doctor's supervision started doing flexibility exercises. I also paid strict attention to my warm up routine. I do not play or hit balls every day but i do swing a weighted club all the time. I carry one in my big rig and when I am waiting to unload I swing the thing

Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex- 5W TM V-Steel Fubuki 60r--- 7W TM V-Steel UST Pro Force Gold 65R----- 9 W TM V Steel TM MAS stiff---- Irons 2015 TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R--- GW Callaway Mack Daddy 2 52* shaft unknown junk pile refugee. SW Callaway PM Grind 56*  Modified sole grind--- KBS Tour Wedge-- LW Vokey 58* SM5 L grind--- Putter Ping B90I Broom Stick 

 

 

 G

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