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Fitting Questions?????


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#91 RookieBlue7

RookieBlue7

    AGENT NAME: FT.WORTH

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 10:59 PM

Do yourself a favor in case they don't have face tape available. Take either a whiteboard marker or a sharpie. Instead of typing it all out, from here I'll copy and paste Tom Wishon's words on how to do the test.

"The ink line on the back of the ball technique for dynamic lie fitting is simple and logical. A heavy ink line is drawn on the ball with a Sharpie pen. The ball is placed on the ground with the line vertical and facing the clubhead. After impact, a faint image of the ink line is transferred to the clubface. If the line is perfectly vertical on the clubface, the lie of the club is correct for the golfer. If the ink line tilts in an angle up toward the toe side of the face, the lie of the club that was hit is too upright so the correct lie has to be flatter than the lie of the club being hit. Vice versa — if the ink line angles up toward the heel side of the face, the correct lie has to be more upright than the lie of the test club."

Do this step AFTER the sole tape has been done (and the club adjusted). This simplifies the fitting and need to keep going back and forth.

I prefer to do every club. I also own a loft/lie machine and can do that. Some stores don't or won't do every club (they should but usually don't). Just make sure once adjusting your test club that the clubs are adjusted from the test club (if they do the hit one club fitting). Once you have that first one right, check the spec from the stock specs. Then adjust lie angles based on stock lie angles (meaning the actual specs from the manufacturer not take every club and bend it x amount from where it sits currently). Lots of stores will say 1 degree upright and will bend every club a degree up from where it's at currently instead of saying "the stated lie is 63 degrees and we went 1 degree up so it's now 64 degrees. That means the next club's stated lie that's supposed to be 63.5 should be 64.5 degrees." There are tolerance built in. Make sure they bend them based off of stated specs and not their current position.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade Tour Issue Superfast 2.0 LCG w/ USPG Black Ops Pearl X 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade SLDR TS 13* with Aldila NV 75X
3 Hybrid: Adams Super LSP 18* (bent to 17*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams Super LSP 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
5-7I : Tour Issued Adams CB2 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour issue S400 hardstepped 1x
8-GW: Tour Issued Adams CB1 w/ Dynamic Gold S400 hardstepped 1x

SW: 56* Cleveland CG12 (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Cleveland CG12 (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
Putter: Mannkrafted Widebody Rattler 34", 71* lie, 4* loft

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.


#92 RookieBlue7

RookieBlue7

    AGENT NAME: FT.WORTH

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 11:08 PM

Oh and in case someone needed one or has never seen one, here's a wrist to floor chart (the one I actually use myself except mine is handwritten in my notes).

4EA29FA9-EBE4-44E0-B6BD-9680085D55F6_zps

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade Tour Issue Superfast 2.0 LCG w/ USPG Black Ops Pearl X 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade SLDR TS 13* with Aldila NV 75X
3 Hybrid: Adams Super LSP 18* (bent to 17*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams Super LSP 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
5-7I : Tour Issued Adams CB2 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour issue S400 hardstepped 1x
8-GW: Tour Issued Adams CB1 w/ Dynamic Gold S400 hardstepped 1x

SW: 56* Cleveland CG12 (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Cleveland CG12 (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
Putter: Mannkrafted Widebody Rattler 34", 71* lie, 4* loft

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.





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