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DIY: Regripping with an Air Compressor


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#16 Matt Saternus

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 07:00 AM

I still prefer the tape and solvent method... sorry. I had a pro once who taught me to use rubber cement and masking tape. Worked like a charm. Took forever to dry though.


Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?

FWIW, I pulled out the clubs that I regripped yesterday and swung them, pulled at them, did everything I could to move the grip and...nothing. If anyone wants a solvent tray w/mounting hardware and tubes for reclaiming the used solvent, let me know. I can tell you for sure that I will never be using solvent & grip tape again.

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#17 Addicted2Golf

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 09:34 AM

First off, thanks for posting the step by step. I think its an interesting alternative method. I need to go the more traditional route first since I'm a newbie, but I'm going to bookmark this post for future reference.

Tell the Mrs. she took great pics. Nice assist from her. Oh, and I would have laughed at you too. ;)
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#18 Addicted2Golf

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 09:37 AM

I know quite a few club makers that use the tapeless system and have little to no problem with slippage. Although some people do prefer to have their grips built up in different manners.


I believe what you say, but the last thing I want to be worrying about are my grips. So, you kind of lost me at "litte to...".

Plus I do have my grips built up. I like to get regular grips and do two extra wraps of tape to put them between a regular and a mid sized. Through experimentation, that is the perfect grip size for me.
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#19 jamo

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 10:14 AM

Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?

FWIW, I pulled out the clubs that I regripped yesterday and swung them, pulled at them, did everything I could to move the grip and...nothing. If anyone wants a solvent tray w/mounting hardware and tubes for reclaiming the used solvent, let me know. I can tell you for sure that I will never be using solvent & grip tape again.


So what holds them on? Was is the grip being stretched or something?

#20 mainuh

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 01:43 PM

So what holds them on? Was is the grip being stretched or something?


Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

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#21 Addicted2Golf

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 01:53 PM

Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

rob


I would think the grips would tend to slip around more on steel than graphite.

I guess what I don't get about the green movement is nobody would mess with solvents and tape if it really wasn't required. So what am I missing?
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Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core
Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore
Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT
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#22 Matt Saternus

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 02:24 PM

First off, thanks for posting the step by step. I think its an interesting alternative method. I need to go the more traditional route first since I'm a newbie, but I'm going to bookmark this post for future reference.

Tell the Mrs. she took great pics. Nice assist from her. Oh, and I would have laughed at you too. B)


Thanks, she's a good sport about nonsense like this.

If you want some grip replacement equipment for the "old" method, just swing by my house. Shoot me a PM if you want.

I believe what you say, but the last thing I want to be worrying about are my grips. So, you kind of lost me at "litte to...".

Plus I do have my grips built up. I like to get regular grips and do two extra wraps of tape to put them between a regular and a mid sized. Through experimentation, that is the perfect grip size for me.


You can still build up the grips, you just use plain masking tape instead of grip tape.

Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

rob



The environmental point is a good one, hadn't even thought of it. I just like it because it's faster and I won't have to deal with cutting off grip tape when I remove the grips.

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#23 jamo

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 07:33 PM

Jamo, all grips are slightly undersize to the shafts butts. The "rubber" of the underlisting grips the barrel so tightly that it doesn't want to move.

There is something to be said about this method especially if you're of a "Green Mindset" and its probably healthier than breathing in the solvents. As you read from my previous post I'm not 100% sold on this method but it certainly has its advocates.

rob


Thanks for the description. I've never done it myself, so sorry if I am a asking too many questions. I'm done though, no more questions. ;)

#24 MmmmmmBuddy

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 06:02 AM

Rubber cement and masking tape, really? Was he that concerned about the grip flying off?


Rubber Cement was alot easier to clean up than solvent, and you could still line up the grip when it was wet.

Question. Does this compressor technique work on Winn Grips?? I wonder if they might split??

What I tote around the golf course..

Driver -  :taylormade-small: R9 SuperDeep TP 9* Fubuki 63s 45" Set to N

Fairway -   :taylormade-small:     SLDR - S 3HL 17*

Hybrid -  :adams-small: 18* DHy AeroTech SteelFiber 75i Stiff
Hybrid -  :cleveland-small:  22* Hibore AeroTech SteelFiber 75i Stiff

Irons -  :adams-small: CB1 Pro Black 5-PW Project X Flighted 6.0 Std length, 1* flat
Wedges - C.Carnahan Forged 50*, 54*, 58* TTDG Stiff, all bent 1* flat
Putter -  :ping-small: Scottsdale Anser Nickel Salty Grip 33" Bent 4* up

 

All clubs gripped with Lamkin uTX standard Size Grips.

 

@nicsherman


#25 Matt Saternus

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 06:05 AM

Rubber Cement was alot easier to clean up than solvent, and you could still line up the grip when it was wet.

Question. Does this compressor technique work on Winn Grips?? I wonder if they might split??


I have only done this with GPTV's, so I don't know. Is there a particular reason why you think Winns would split?

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#26 Addicted2Golf

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 07:34 AM

If you want some grip replacement equipment for the "old" method, just swing by my house. Shoot me a PM if you want.


Thanks Matt. I think I might take you up on that. I'm getting tired of paying "the man" for re-grips.
Callaway FT-9 Driver 10.5* Grafalloy Prolaunch Axis Blue
Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum
Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore
Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core
Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore
Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT
Ping Tour-W 56*,60* DG Spinner
Ping Redwood ZB Putter, WRX Starshot, 35"

#27 Shambles

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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:24 AM

Say someone may occasionally hits fat... ;)
Do you think that the air only adhesion will be enough to prevent grip slippage?


We have club pros here who don't use tape and use plain water to fit the grip. When the water dries, the grips are solid. THEY ONLY DO THIS WITH NEW GRIPS. Some of my clubs were re-gripped this way and I used them until the grips wore out, i.e., kept getting too dirty too quickly. If a gip is re-used, it's necessary to use at least one layer of tape and contact cement.


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#28 Matt Saternus

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 05:22 AM

Quick update for this worried about the grip not staying put: after 4 rounds and lots of range balls with every club in the bag, there have been absolutely zero problems with these grips staying put.

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#29 MmmmmmBuddy

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 03:44 PM

I have only done this with GPTV's, so I don't know. Is there a particular reason why you think Winns would split?

Winn grips have that underlisting that is very still, and susceptible to splitting.

What I tote around the golf course..

Driver -  :taylormade-small: R9 SuperDeep TP 9* Fubuki 63s 45" Set to N

Fairway -   :taylormade-small:     SLDR - S 3HL 17*

Hybrid -  :adams-small: 18* DHy AeroTech SteelFiber 75i Stiff
Hybrid -  :cleveland-small:  22* Hibore AeroTech SteelFiber 75i Stiff

Irons -  :adams-small: CB1 Pro Black 5-PW Project X Flighted 6.0 Std length, 1* flat
Wedges - C.Carnahan Forged 50*, 54*, 58* TTDG Stiff, all bent 1* flat
Putter -  :ping-small: Scottsdale Anser Nickel Salty Grip 33" Bent 4* up

 

All clubs gripped with Lamkin uTX standard Size Grips.

 

@nicsherman


#30 GolfSpy Dave

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 04:10 PM

Winn grips have that underlisting that is very still, and susceptible to splitting.

By still you mean rigid? One thing I read too about using air is that a grip with an imperfection may grow a bubble at the site of weakness. Maybe this is best left to quality grips.
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