Using a crowbar shaft puller

[GolfSpy WD]

I know some of you have used a crowbar shaft puller before. I pulled out the shafts on my wedges today, which is the first time I've pulled a shaft. I timed it on the first wedge and it took about 8 minutes of heat to be able to twist off the shaft.

 

However, I couldn't for the life of me get the head off with the crowbar. Did I not wait long enough for the glue to melt? My next pull is to remove the adapter on a 910H and I'd rather not destroy the shaft, so any advice would be appreciated.

 

thanks!

[lmh3]

Good luck, I have never been very confident with a crowbar, but the key is to keep the hosel of the club as close to the vice as possible. I have never noticed that it takes more heat than twisting the heads off.

[BK in TEXAS]

The important part is to keep constant pressure on the hosel so the moment the glue breaks you can stop heating. The other important part is to heat slowly. Twisting is fine on steel but ixnay the twisting on a graphite shaft.

[Shambles]

I know some of you have used a crowbar shaft puller before. I pulled out the shafts on my wedges today, which is the first time I've pulled a shaft. I timed it on the first wedge and it took about 8 minutes of heat to be able to twist off the shaft.

 

However, I couldn't for the life of me get the head off with the crowbar. Did I not wait long enough for the glue to melt? My next pull is to remove the adapter on a 910H and I'd rather not destroy the shaft, so any advice would be appreciated.

 

thanks!

 

8 minutes strikes me as a long time. You sure your heat gun was plugged in ?

 

 

 

Shambles

[BK in TEXAS]

8 minutes strikes me as a long time. You sure your heat gun was plugged in ?

LOL.

 

Really it depends on the epoxy. I've had some pop off in 30 seconds and some take 10 minutes. Regardless, slower is always safer with graphite.

[GolfSpy WD]

8 minutes strikes me as a long time. You sure your heat gun was plugged in ?

 

 

 

Shambles

 

I think I just have a really crappy heat gun, plus it's cold in my basement

 

When the head came off, the epoxy was still dry inside, which is why I was thinking I may need to heat it more when graphite. As I said, I couldn't remove the head with the pry bar even with a lot of force, but twisting the head broke the epoxy and I could take it off.

[ms1195]

Depending on how much graphite shaft pulling you plan on doing, it may be worth looking into a hydraulic puller. I got a Roberts Puller off ebay for around 125, and that thing has done an amazing job for me. I have never used a crowbar, but I have ruined a couple graphite shafts by heating the hosel for too long (using heat gun) and somehow melting the shaft resin before the epoxy. The best benefits of the shaft extractor is that it applies direct parallel force to the head so there is absolutely no twisting, and the high amount of force being applied to the hosel breaks the epoxy quickly so heating time is much shorter.

 

As you also mentioned the shaft tip removal, I figured I would share a method I found online that works great. This method uses a screw that fits into the tip and then pulls from the screw as opposed to pushing from the hosel. I have a steel plate which the screw fits into, and my puller presses against that, thus applying all the force to the screw. The heat required for this method was also pretty minimal.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Oh and something else that might help with your heating time is to use boiling water before you start with the heat gun. Just pour a pot over the hosel or dip the club directly into it if you can.

[RoverRick]

I use a butane torch and a crowbar puller. It takes about 20 seconds probably less. I bought it I built a shaft holder on a work bench and use a cut up old grip to put around the shaft to protect it. After I have gotten the ferrule out of the way, I clamp it so that there is just enough space between the wood (end of bench with a 2x4 going up the side to the shelves above it) and the then I apply the heat for 15 to 20 seconds,.then was a few seconds (time enough to set down the tourch and pick up crowbar.), then apply pressure with the bar. Usually, this is enough. If not then I apply a little more heat for a few seconds while applying pressure. You can then feel that the epoxy is letting go.

 

I try to be extra careful because I do not want to have a flame and a hot head flying around the room and a crowbar flying all at the same time.

 

Torch was less than $20 at Lowes and uses the same gas as my Cigar lighter. This will also light a cigar in a hurricane if you are so inclined.

 

[GolfSpy WD]

Depending on how much graphite shaft pulling you plan on doing, it may be worth looking into a hydraulic puller. I got a Roberts Puller off ebay for around 125, and that thing has done an amazing job for me. I have never used a crowbar, but I have ruined a couple graphite shafts by heating the hosel for too long (using heat gun) and somehow melting the shaft resin before the epoxy. The best benefits of the shaft extractor is that it applies direct parallel force to the head so there is absolutely no twisting, and the high amount of force being applied to the hosel breaks the epoxy quickly so heating time is much shorter.

 

As you also mentioned the shaft tip removal, I figured I would share a method I found online that works great. This method uses a screw that fits into the tip and then pulls from the screw as opposed to pushing from the hosel. I have a steel plate which the screw fits into, and my puller presses against that, thus applying all the force to the screw. The heat required for this method was also pretty minimal.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Oh and something else that might help with your heating time is to use boiling water before you start with the heat gun. Just pour a pot over the hosel or dip the club directly into it if you can.

 

I really like the screw idea, I'm going to have to try that, thanks!

 

 

I use a butane torch and a crowbar puller. It takes about 20 seconds probably less. I bought it I built a shaft holder on a work bench and use a cut up old grip to put around the shaft to protect it. After I have gotten the ferrule out of the way, I clamp it so that there is just enough space between the wood (end of bench with a 2x4 going up the side to the shelves above it) and the then I apply the heat for 15 to 20 seconds,.then was a few seconds (time enough to set down the tourch and pick up crowbar.), then apply pressure with the bar. Usually, this is enough. If not then I apply a little more heat for a few seconds while applying pressure. You can then feel that the epoxy is letting go.

 

I try to be extra careful because I do not want to have a flame and a hot head flying around the room and a crowbar flying all at the same time.

 

Torch was less than $20 at Lowes and uses the same gas as my Cigar lighter. This will also light a cigar in a hurricane if you are so inclined.

 

 

Thanks for the tips RR, I'm going to try exactly this, maybe along with the screw idea. I'm going to go pick up a butane torch and not use my crappy heat gun. Since we seem to get hurricanes once a year now and I also have a cigar about once a year, I'll give that a shot too!

[Shambles]

If you're going to use a torch on a graphite pull, be very precise with your timing. It's really too easy to melt the shaft along with the epoxy if you lose your timing. I find a spring loaded extractor to be the safest tool simply because the epoxy usually melts before the graphite so it requires a little less attention than the hand pull, which is pretty close to a guessing game.

 

With that said, I still have not yet found a shaft puller I like so I still twist and pull by hand unless the shaft is so important to me that I take it to a trusted club maker to do the job for me.

 

 

Shambles

[BK in TEXAS]

If you use the torch keep the point of the flame an inch or so away, and keep it moving. The point of the flame is insanely hot. Crowbar in one hand, torch in the other, you'll be fine. Here's the thing....just because you stop heating the head, it doesn't mean the epoxy and shaft aren't still heating up. As long as the head is hotter than the shaft it will continue to transfer heat to the shaft. More than once I've stopped heating the head only to have the head pop off a minute or so later. It is not a good idea to heat it and then apply pressure. Keep the pressure applied the whole time....it will pop off the moment the glue gives.

[RoverRick]

If you're going to use a torch on a graphite pull, be very precise with your timing. It's really too easy to melt the shaft along with the epoxy if you lose your timing. I find a spring loaded extractor to be the safest tool simply because the epoxy usually melts before the graphite so it requires a little less attention than the hand pull, which is pretty close to a guessing game.

 

With that said, I still have not yet found a shaft puller I like so I still twist and pull by hand unless the shaft is so important to me that I take it to a trusted club maker to do the job for me.

 

 

Shambles

 

Yes, if you are doing it on a graphite shaft it is better to have to keep going back and adding a little more heat than too much heat. Too little and nothing happens. Too much and you have a new 3 wood shaft. or 7 wood, or 9 wood. I have several 15 wood shafts to prove it.

[GolfSpy WD]

It's going to be fun, I'm not so worried about saving the shaft, but I want to practice for when I do want to save the shaft. I very much appreciate the tips!

 

You'll have to post a pic of your 15 wood RR...is that used for shots between 0-10 yards?

[Shambles]

It's going to be fun, I'm not so worried about saving the shaft, but I want to practice for when I do want to save the shaft. I very much appreciate the tips!

 

You'll have to post a pic of your 15 wood RR...is that used for shots between 0-10 yards?

 

 

I believe the 15 Wood used to be called the Sand Wood. These marketing people... <_>

 

 

Shambles

[revkev]

Oh man sorry - I saw crowbar shaft putter not puller - all I could think was the USGA is really going to love that one.

[McGolf]

I know some of you have used a crowbar shaft puller before. I pulled out the shafts on my wedges today, which is the first time I've pulled a shaft. I timed it on the first wedge and it took about 8 minutes of heat to be able to twist off the shaft.

 

However, I couldn't for the life of me get the head off with the crowbar. Did I not wait long enough for the glue to melt? My next pull is to remove the adapter on a 910H and I'd rather not destroy the shaft, so any advice would be appreciated.

 

thanks!

In most cases using a butane torch which is a low cost purchase is the best bet for any pull.

There are other low cost screw type pullers or go to EBAY for hydraulic units for $100 or less units. Both are far better than a crow bar. It would appear you will do this more than just this time. a puller is a great investment.

Remember to apply the heat in a back and forth motion no more than 15 sec on any one side. Then move about 45 deg and do again and one more time in just about every case you can pull the head or adapter. About 45 to 60 sec is all that is needed. If it does not remove then wait about 30 sec and start over