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- May 17 2013 01:36 PM
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Posts I've Made
16 May 2013 - 07:05 PMTuna hit on a really good point, how exactly do you use your wedges the most often?
For me a bump and run really won't matter what shaft I have in there, that's mostly about weight of the club in my hands to feel the stroke / strike. A little pitch shot that carries less then 20 yards really won't have much difference either, I haven't noticed anymore or less spin on one shaft over another on these style of shots. It's mostly technique / clean grooves / premium ball / good green conditions. With the new grooves, I don't get a ton of spin of the clubs from things that carry within 20 yards, If I need one to stop faster I do it with trajectory rather then spin. Hit that Phil flop and get some speed on it at that point. Then you might care what the shaft feels like, but I think we would want to avoid situations that a flop shot is your only option
I find that my preference comes from 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full shots on shafts. Once that I can get some speed into impact and actually see how the ball reacts to different shafts on the same green conditions. Say I have a 60 yard shot, i can use 60*, 56*, 52* and carry it 60 yards, what it does after it lands becomes more of my concern, if it is 60 yards and I can fly it 50yards and run it 10yards 52* is the pick. 56* would be something in the middle like 55yards, 5yard release, 60* would be me trying to land it and stop it right at 60yards.
The other thing I kind of take into consideration is feel between my wedges and my irons. I try to stick to the same company to get the same weight / feel off the shafts. If I play DG in the irons I plat DG in the wedges, KBS in the irons KBS in the wedges. I haven't played Nippon, I played PX in both irons and wedges on the old grooves. That is more of a feel thing then anything else, I might give up a little spin but my tempo is better when not jumping around between bend profiles.
In the new grooves I have only played DG x100s (9, W) shafts in Some Nike heads, they didn't spin enough at all. I bought my Mizuno MP T-11s and had KBS Tour Wedge XS put in them, I'll tell you what It took me some time to get used to the KBS shaft the lower section kicks it's a weird feeling compared to the DG I was playing. I get a lot more spin with my new set up and love it.
I don't know if that ramble helps any or not, to summarize if you partial swing the GW a ton go with the KBS Tour, if you full swing it more go for the Steel Fiber shaft.
Note: If the shafts are taper tip do not put a 4 or 5 iron shaft into a wedge. If they are parallel, build one to be at an 8i tip cut and another to a 9i tip cut spec and see which one you like better in the GW. If you go that road.
15 May 2013 - 12:17 PMSo I paid a golf pro to teach me how to hit draws consistently and all I have to say is it was a waste of money. Very disappointed.
All he tried to do is make me keep coming back for things I already know.
Anyways,... I'm a natural fader of the ball.
I have a slightly strong grip and I still fade the ball, thus I aim left to put the ball in the middle of fairway and green.
I have already tried to help you with your swing once in the lessons section of the forum. My instructor even tossed in a little advice (Bruce Rearick, bargolf) for you to help you. What I was attempting to do in giving advice for your swing model is to get you more inside to down the line, there is no way you can hit a draw coming outside to inside unless it is a pull draw / hook. We don't want a two way miss that's ugly.
What I was giving you advice for was to hit a natural draw with a two-plane swing, but it really sort of came off to me that you really didn't want to accept my advice and when I pointed you in a different direction you refused that as well. You can't be scared to take advice, if you are taking a lesson you have to trust the person doing the teaching and listen to what they have to say. If it doesn't work you give them nice feedback that you can't feel what they are trying to have you do and they think on a way to re-word it of get a FEEL for you to do the motions correctly.
It is sort of pointless to pay someone or ask for advice if all you plan to do is tell the instructor how much you know or think you know about what they are telling you. Financially and progression that is just not logical. You are wasting your time and the instructors time in doing that. If you ask for advice be prepared to listen and think some advice sucks but has good intentions, other advice is great but doesn't work for you and you have to find / feel something different that does work.
I want to be able to hit a draw consistently. So far what I have been told and tried to do are:
1. aim for the inside quadrant of the ball and hit the ball to the right.
2. Shoulder doesn't rotate horizontally, rather more left shoulder up and right shoulder down.
3. Head behind ball.
No matter the above I kept hitting fades and baby fades.
Again, for your swing being two-plane you HAVE to let the hands drop down first BEFORE the hips / shoulders start to rotate. The transition HAS to feel very slow and the hand have to feel like they are around waste high before the body starts to rotate.
Regardless of swing plane you have basic concepts:
DRAW >> Arms have to lead the body into impact
FADE >> The hips / shoulders lead the arms into impact
Can someone perhaps help me with a more solid basic thought? Should I exaggerate the hitting ball into base #1 more?
I'm lost and I don't want to spend anymore money I don't have on golf pros in this town.
Review the above and re-read what we talked about in your swing video thread on the other section of the forum.
10 May 2013 - 01:31 PMI sort of find it interesting that they say average swing speed is 100-110mph... I am almost positive that the average male golfer is more in the 90s in swing speed then the 100s...
Cool little gif otherwise, has some interesting stuff in it.
08 May 2013 - 02:44 PMSounds like something that I have said before here on this forum about putting. Nice find Moecat, good to see not everyone and their brother is buying into "true roll" / "over-spin" putter marking bulls***.
02 May 2013 - 06:13 PMI'd reverse 4 and 5 on JMiller's list - tee shots are important as they set up everything else - they most definitely don't have to be 300 yards though.
Really the list should be listed as 4, I was being more specific in distances for "approaches". Long approach is a little different then a short approach in my eyes (numbers 3 and 4). I almost always have mid to long irons into Par 3s and some longer par 4s. I almost always have mid to long irons on Par3s and long Par 4s my target size is bigger then if I have short iron / wedge in my hand.
As long as you keep the ball in play off the tee, then your iron can bail you out, if you screw that up, your wedges can bail you out, if you screw that up maybe the putter can still save the par. There is nothing that can bail you out from poor putting.
So if you want to make that list more simple
2) Short game / wedges
3) Approaches / irons
4) Tee shots
Gary Player had a comment that sort of fits here...
You get any 16 handicap, You have Tiger Woods hit the first two shots on Par4s and Par5s then have the 16 take over from there, the 16 handicap would be a 10. You take the same 16 handicap and have them hit the first two shots on par 4s and Par 5s then have Tiger Woods take over the 16 handicap would be a 3 .
Recent Status Updates
PFCBirdieBabe Having read the thread, and Richard was wrong, as was Rookie, yet you let it go and say that ya expect two type A's to real it in?.As the owner of a business with 11 employees, 9 FT, I have a good handle & I know Richaard well, & he is in real life as he is in what I've read in the forum, and you let the in the sand stand, and ya got what you got..
May 17 2013 05:56 PM
R.P. Jacobs II No anger here X..Ya did what ya had to do..It is what it is..Have a good one:-)
May 17 2013 05:43 PM
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