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  1. Wanted to provide a review of Sub70 649 MB tours from someone with non-tour swing speeds as review. Also other than the TXG review I don't see a lot of reviews on them other than just "buy these they are cheap and perform." Details about my game: I roughly shot 3-6 over par and play 10-15 different courses each year. No idea on handicap. I average about 270 yd drives (so not a bomber) and have been playing the Cobra FlyZ+ line up since 2015. I can play long irons, utilities, hybrids and fairways interchangably. My preference is to carry 3 iron, hybrid and wood at the top and use one 54 specialty wedge at the bottom with heal relief depending on wind/course set up will throw in a 2 utility for 3 iron. My miss is on the left, so less offset suits my eye. Who are they really for: If you a reasonably good/consistent ball striker these will work for you, independent of handicap. The toe tungsten screw should not be overlooked and is something that is built into a lot of good play irons, including Tiger's TM clubs. This is in the fly Z line up as well which is part of what drew me to this model. Also for me, I visually prefer the sweet spot to be in the "center" and not heal side. Also if you want sub 1 mm offset throughout the set, this is your club. Why did I buy them: Toe side tungsten, wanted to try a cheap blade experiment, look visually very appealing as a whole, 0.5 mm offset, wanted to try some new NV iron graphite shafts, low bounce/weak lofts throughout the set and has a non ground leading edge. You can always grind them slightly later if you want. Overall a real "unicorn" in the golf club world that caters more to the more prevalent GI crowd. Customer Service: Really don't need to say much here that others have not covered...Fantastic. When you can talk to the CEO directly that has the authority to really accommodate things that are not standard company policy, I think that is what draws us all to smaller companies. And I am not talking about getting a shaft that is not in the "custom" line-up. Looking at your TM for not being able to get in between flexes for KBS shafts. For 1500 bucks, I expect every golf company to do this at a minimum these days. Cost: The cost is great, but not always better. It really depends on your buy habits and brand you buy from most often. Irons, wedges and utilities is where you get the most bang for your buck. Forged iron prices depending on model is an outright steal, same with utilities. For the 649 MB-->big steal. Wedges are more moderate. Also drivers, woods and hybrids are break even for me. For instance, I can by a 300 cobra driver one model year later for the same price and I tend to buy new one year old models every 5-10 years or so. Also I am well integrated into the cobra shaft adapters system, so I have to rebuy shafts unless I want to pull them. I don't play exotic shafts, so all and all still a tremendous value, especially if you do not do your own club work or play more expensive brands. You also can get the lies and lofts adjusted to exactly how you want them instead of having to make the same =/- changes across all clubs. If you need that customization and lack access to a loft/lie machine, also adds to the intangible value. Visuals: The 649 MB look great to me, offset does not make me think I will hook them. I also got a 50 286 wedge and JB 54 wedge. Both the wedges have 1.5 mm of offset. The 286 looks like my cobras, but the JB looks like a GI wedge. The claim is that the JB have less of a rounded leading edge, which may magnify things, but the hosel is also noticeably bent backwards vs the 286 wedge. I personally find this style very unappealing in a wedge, so may have to look elsewhere as the 54 is my workhorse wedge. This is where the DTC comes into play, sometimes you do not know what you are going to get, but with the 60 day playability, you can send it back and get take care of by the sub70 team. Feel/Performance: They feel as "soft" as any other iron I have hit...hit close to the center and they all feel the same. The assembler might have taken extra time to check the lofts/lie as I am getting 10-12 yd gaps out of the gate. In addition most of the heads did not have plastic wrappers on them, which I assume they handpicked heads to match swing weight. Specifically, comparing my cobra 23 degree 4 iron with KBS Tour 115g against the Sub70 4 iron at 24 degrees and 95 g NV, the number averages were closer than expected: Carry:174.8 vs 177.7 Clubspeed:85.2 vs 85.2 Ball speed:117.4 vs 118.3 Apex: 94.6 vs 97.9 Launch: 21.5 vs 22 Spin: 3664 vs 3575 Dispersion 9.4 L (+/-4.1) 6.8 L (+/-7.1) Both were swing weighted to within in one point, so given the lighter shaft and weaker loft, I am happy with the numbers (*collected on mevo+ indoors). Personal thoughts of gaps in the line up: The driver is well covered, but adding a front port to the pro model might appeal to a large crowd. Fairway woods/hybrids are well covered. A less offset model in the utility iron line up would be awesome, though outside of the old Titleist models with 2 mm this is very hard to find anything less than 3-4 mm from any manufacturer. Irons appear well covered though lower offset cavity backs may appeal to some people or combo with the 649 MB. Wedges could probably use a couple more grinds, nothing crazy like vokeys, but right now it looks like there is F/S and M grind. A really wide sole model like TM big foot or cobra widelow may be interesting, and perhaps a full face grove model might also be a nice add as they have become mainstream with the big 5. Less offset would also be nice to combo with the 649 MB. Putters look really nice with the customization, but I am more a midmallet halfmoon user, which is not in the line up currently. Overall well done Sub70 team, looking forward to trying the Driver and utility on order. Hope to see more of you buy the 649MB tours, as it is truly as good as anything the bigger OEMS put out.
  2. A brief background, I currently play between 0-10 over par on courses (I have no home course). It feels like I have a smoother swing and transition. I play Cobra Flyz+ throughout most of my bag. So I have little offset in irons and weaker lofts; 7-iron =33, PW=45. Driver=260-270 total, 7 iron 155; PW=120 so I suspect my ss is ~100 mph with driver based on charts I have seen. Current bag set-up Driver, tour-green S, 3 wood (15) tour-blue S, flex slot, 4-GW flyz+ with KBSR+; 54 and 60 Cobra PuR wedges with KBSR+ and High Rev 2.0. Flex slot is fly z hybrid (22) tour blue S or set 3 iron (20) or forged tech utility 2 iron (17), project X catalyst S. Putter is Odyssey Rossie white hot 2.0 or a bobby grace iceman (moderate toe hang). My clubs have not been "fit" to me, but shot dispersion and distance appear consistent to me. 2 years ago after I started striking the ball very consistently, I got range finder, that has really helped me fill out my bag in terms of clubs and pinning down my distance. This probably also dropped 5 strokes off my game. I also feel like I am set on my base swing with a straight shot shape as my go to for all clubs. This year I started tracking GIR (11-14 a round) and FIR (8-10), so I think I am ready to take the next step in my game, I am just not exactly sure what to do. Some issues that jump out: 1) Poor putting. 2 or 3 putting from within 15 feet is hard to swallow. I can typically chip closer. I miss both left and right and tend to leave things short. I have a SBST stroke or a try, and prefer the feel of a mid mallet with a standard size pistol grip. I am indifferent to toe hang (I also have a #9 that I rarely use). I would like to try a SAM fitting, but the nearest fitters a a few hours away and COVID makes things difficult. 2) Generally I stay out of trouble and feel like I have good course/shot management, but I do not know how to hit a proper fade/draw (I cannot seem to understand online instruction). I can control trajectory a bit better at least on irons. So my questions for the community are suggestions on addressing putting (at least in the meantime) and how to hit the fade/draw? A stinger would be nice off the tee as well, I cannot seem to get this one down. If anyone else has suggestions or things to consider in my progression to scratch I would love to hear (again consistent lessons are out of the question due to my remote location).
  3. I recently had this same issue after hitting dead straight. The answer is, it is complicated, but came down to biomechanics. Do you hit everything straight left all the way down to your lowest wedge? If the answer is yes, you have early extension contributing. If you are saying you hit out to in, I assume you can see the club face in your practice swings and hits pointing left. At least I could. Another contributing issue is, you start the downswing from the top down meaning you rotate your shoulders first instead of your hips (hence you come across your body and likely are losing power as well). Another contributing issue is hips slide or stop rotating in your swing (I believe the technical term for this is not clearing your hips). Basically this means start your down swing with the hips and keep rotating while feeling like you are throwing your arms away from your body at or right before impact the ball. If you rotate your shoulder first you will like not generate the proper hip rotation around your spine. Finally, if you release too early this will promote coming too close to your body (and pulling the ball dead left or slight curvature depending on how many other faults you have above). These faults generally require a more neutral grip and neutral left wrist at the transition. Though my wrist can be slightly cupped and grip can get a little strong, but I can produce straight flight from either scenario. For a hips drill, I have seen people say, to pull your right foot backwards to feel the sensation of the hips turning vs sliding. You may also want to make sure you are slightly tilted away from your target vs having your shoulders parallel to the ground. This will also promote fixing some of the faults above naturally. Maybe these will work for you maybe not, but as Dave eludes to, the more you know about your biomechanical motions the easier it is to find a solution.
  4. I don't know how to answer "how loose" without some sort of measurement tool. The 0.370 graphite hybrid shaft fits like all my other reshafts meaning I can stick it in and rotate it easily and the shaft stays aligned with no/minor lateral play. There is more lateral play with the 0.355 and there is a lot with a 0.335. I have reshafted 6 others that did not appear to have any lateral play (shaft goes noticeably crooked in the hosel).
  5. I am trying to reshaft my flyz+ 3 iron from cobra that I noticed was an KBS S+ when I last regripped it (vs R+ in the rest of the set). The specs say a 0.355 shaft is used, so I bought one at golfworks and well when I pulled it, it seems to be a little loose. So I inserted a 0.370 graphite in which fit much better, or at least like all the other reshafts I have done. I checked the pulled shaft and it is a 0.355 and gives the same amount of play as well. I did not see any glass beads or shims upon removing so I assume the OEM did this on purpose or the hosel bore is out of spec. I reshafted the set GW, 3 years ago, but do not recall this issue. Has anyone else observed this behavior before? Since I live out in the middle of nowhere and mail takes a month or more to get things lately and no club builders within 2 hours, I am wondering if I could just use an epoxy with gap filling properties instead of a shim? I see people also have used meshed dry wall tape with success (can anyone provide a link?), which really just seems to be a way to keep things straight versus making a stronger bond (given what the OEM did). Glass beads and shims are out due to time it takes to get here. Sugar seems to be a bad idea, and I have seen sand which seems too messy to me. Note, I wanted to reshaft because I think the S+ is causing distances shorter than expected distances. Any thoughts?
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