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Everything posted by goaliedad30

  1. We have five sets of tees (back to front, Gold/7,005, Blue/6550, White/6150, Silver/5600, and Red/5200). There are also defined combo tees between every set of tee boxes (Red/Silver, Silver/White, White/Blue, and Blue/Gold). The most popular tees are by far the combo tees. I'm still happy to play Blue, Blue/White, or White, depending upon who I'm playing with, and the time of year (in the winter, we often have NEGATIVE roll, even on drivers....). Creating these combos has taken a lot of pressure off of people who were playing too far back. We even contest our club championship from the Blue/Gold combo tees (we have some pretty good senior players who can still compete from 6850, but not from 7000+)
  2. The glove / hands are the only piece of contact we have with the actual instrument that's striking the golf ball. If someone can figure out how to make a glove that retains that "new glove" traction and feel, that would be awesome. I also change my grips probably 3 times a year, for the same reason.
  3. A number of years ago, I switched to gloves from MG Golf (www.mggolf.com). They sell for around $7 each, and wear reasonably well. I'll usually get 10-15 rounds out of a glove. At the low price point, I've taken to treating them like tees: they're disposable. If it gets a tear, or get too slick, I just replace it.
  4. You might check out something like the Garmin R10. If you're using it outdoors, it's plenty accurate as far as I've seen. Each student could have the Garmin Golf app on their phone, and basically keep their own sessions for analysis and review. I think it's selling for around $600, so you should be able to get at least a couple. At that $2000 price point, I think you're better off going "multiple $500-700 units" vs. a single $2K device. At the $4-5K price point, I think it's probably a different conversation.
  5. There's a facility like this on the San Francisco peninsula - Mariner's Point. It's got a full Top Tracer range, plus a separate grass tee section and short game area, with a fully lighted 9-hole par 3 course. Holes range from around 80 yards to 160 yards, and it's links style, including one shared double green. Really fun little track. It's literally 3 minutes from my son's apartment, so he goes there regularly to practice and play with friends. He's also used to it introduce new golfers to the game - they'll often go out and play a fun scramble. I've played it a handful of times with him, under the lights, and it's always a fun time. The 9th hole is very cool. It's essentially a 90-yard scaled down replica of #16 at Augusta National. Great to see more projects like this being built!
  6. On a day where I'm striking the ball well, and putts are dropping, I certainly could shoot 66.
  7. We're a private club in Northern California. Just put in a membership application!
  8. I have an entire shag bag full of used Titleist ProV1s that I take to the short game area with me. Even warming up before a round, I chip and pitch with the balls I am playing as opposed to the range balls we keep in the chipping area. And I'm lucky - our range uses brand new AVXs, so they're actually not bad for full shots.
  9. FYI, I would strongly advise against "knobby tires" unless you want two things: To be able to really take it off-road somewhere (like a farm, etc) AND To have your course superintendent know you by name and hate you .... We're going through a process where those private carts with the knobbys will either be cart path only, or have to switch to turf tires. The knobby tires are damaging the golf course.
  10. We had the guys we bought it from do the upgrade. It was around $1500. We bought it as a used (2019) chassis, which they basically rebuilt the cart around. Wish we'd have gone straight to Lithium; probably would have saved a couple hundred dollars, and I wouldn't have battery acid stains in my garage
  11. We've owned an EZ-Go RXV for about 2 years. It has upgraded wheels / tires, and a package that lets it max out around 24-25 mph. We originally got it with lead-acid batteries, and upgraded to Lithium Ion about a year ago. DEFINITELY go LI, just WAY easier to maintain, and holds a charge forever.
  12. Our super, by policy, wants it alternating. Each mowing rotates "straight stripes", "diagonal stripes", and "no stripes (classic)". He's stated that it's best for the turf health, as it gets mowed in various directions instead of constantly the same. We have rye/poa fairways, so not sure if it would be different for other types of grasses. I think we mow the fairways around 3 times a week.
  13. This seems like a case where there really need to be white (or possibly white and red) lines / stakes to define the specific intent. Without those, a definition of "the parking lot is OB" means exactly what it says - the parking lot and only the parking lot. We have roads through the course, and it's specifically noted that a ball that goes OB and crosses a road onto another "in bounds" part of the course is deemed OOB. FWIW, there's a course I player in the mountains where the 10th and 12th holes go around the practice area. By design, they do not mark the practice area as out of bounds. Not super safe, but I've made a couple of pars and birdies from the middle of the practice ground ....
  14. I guess it's slightly firmer and "clickier". But it works. IMHO, "feel" is overrated. It launches high enough, and has the right spin characteristics for me. Easy to find these days. Lots of on course shops carrying them (including my club's pro shop), and worst case, Golf Galaxy has them, shipped in 2-3 days.
  15. You sound like the exact profile for the Left Dash. I switched from ProV1X to Left Dash when it came out, for exactly the same reason, and it completely solved the problem.
  16. I'm starting to find that more shops are carrying Left Dash. Our country club is now carrying them - I was surprised, and when I asked the pro, he said "You, Joe, and Sam all play them ... and all for the right reason!"
  17. It may be the expectations. The Tour gets a massive amount of data, which is collected via armies of volunteers at every event, coupled with technology that they've invested millions in (and are trying to monetize). Having tested Arccos extensively, I've concluded that there's a trade-off that will be with us for a while: either high-quality data, that comes from ME being the data collection / accuracy filter, or marginal data that I can edit after the round if I want. At this point, I've found that tracking by hand is getting me what I need. I use a scorecard, and transfer to a spreadsheet. Here's what I track: Fairways hit, plus "reasonable 2nd shot after tee shot" (missing the fairway, but "easy" shot from rough, for example) Greens hit (and I count on the fringe with a putter in hand as hitting a green .... measuring my iron play here) Greens missed with <= 9 iron (that's just dumb ) Up & down, with a sub category of "easy up & downs" (I want to know how often I'm converting simple stuff) Bunker saves Total putts 3 putts One caveat - my distances are pretty dialed in. 70-80% of my misses are hole high left or right. Those that are short or long often involve elevation / wind judgement, which I get creates more distance misses.
  18. I will take them if they're still available!
  19. Think Box/Play Box. Behind the ball in the think Box, talk to yourself a lot. Lie, wind, target, shot shape. Once you've committed to a specific shot, go to the play box, check the target, and be an athlete. Think about a QB at the line. Pre-snap he's reading the defense, communicating with receivers and blockers, and running snap count. After the snap, there is no thought - just athletic performance.
  20. Left Dash. When I play either ProV1 or ProV1x, I generate too much spin with my irons. The Left Dash stays within a yard or so of where it lands, unless the greens are super firm. I find that greenside performance is really comparable from all three, and driver distance is probably slightly longer with the Left Dash, but approach spin is my primary factor. If I am playing super firm greens, I will sometimes change to a ProV1 (windy day) or ProV1x (non-windy day).
  21. I've had my distances dialed in for years. When I see anything that looks like it's changing, I go to the range with my Garmin R10 and re-calibrate. I'm not quite as long as I was in my 30's now that I'm 59, but the difference is probably less than a full club. 8i used to be 150, now a 7i is 153. I'm lucky in that I get really good feedback on course, since my shots tend to hit the green and stop within a yard or so of the pitchmark (I play Left Dash, to reduce the "spinning ProV1s back off of greens" effect). That means I can spot check the yardage I thought I was playing with what I actually hit, while the quality of contact is still fresh in my brain.
  22. I have a very consistent 35-40 minute warmup routine: Lag putting: ladder drill 20/30/40/50 feet for distance control Short putting: ladder drill from 2/4/6 feet, sometimes add gate drill if I've been fighting that range Chipping and pitching with 50 / 54/ 58 wedges Wedges on the range until contact is crisp and consistent (usually 20-30 balls) A few irons (odds or evens) - usually 10-15 balls A few hybrid / fairway wood shots - usually 10-15 balls 3w & driver off of tees until I feel good about today's shot shape and contact (usually 10-15 balls) Last swing is a great shot with the club I will hit from the first tee So, I probably spend 15-20 minutes at the short game area, and then hit around 50 balls on the range. I usually feel nice and warm, and positive about my contact going to the first tee.
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