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  1. I run a double wide TT with the lines filled in black and a golfpride tour snsr grip.. Works well for me though I do feel that the head can be a little easy to turn.. Have tried heavier weights but then the head weighs too much.. I would like to try the heavier weights with a heavier butt weight to counter this.
  2. Thanks Mike. My question isn't about what shafts they have available. The question is whether or not the stock shafts are the same as the aftermarket shafts with the same name. Many manufacturers have shafts that are branded the same as aftermarket shafts, however the shaft itself is quite different to one you would get if you bought the shaft as an aftermarket upgrade.
  3. I know a lot of stock shafts are "Made for" shafts, sometimes with quite large differences to the actual aftermarket shafts.. For example, the stock Ventus shafts in the new TM drivers have the 'same' bend characteristics but none of the velocore unicorn magic is present in the shaft (IMO making it as much of a ventus as any other standard shaft is, on the market). I'm just wondering if anyone knows if there are any differences between the stock MotoreX F1 shafts in the Cobra Rad drivers vs an aftermarket MotoreX F1? I'm looking at a new shaft since gaining 10mph in swing speed over
  4. It's worth noting that those carpet/velvet style mats will hold a 'groove' that the proceeding balls will follow, especially when using them on a soft carpet surface below. You'll find that if you miss one slightly left, the next few will be slightly left as well. If you make one, it will be easier to make the next putts.
  5. I think you missed the part about basically every other driver being constructed in the same way. If you have major concerns about the Sim 2's construction, you should have/had major concerns about a lot of other drivers. Particularly the Cobra Speedzone.
  6. The engineers designed the ball... they didn't design the lack of QA in the ball factory. You're ignoring a lot of existing technology that shares the same concept, as well as the fact that there is nothing to support your assumption. I'm looking at my Cobra Speedzone Xtreme driver right now.. It's got a CNC milled face, a carbon crown that wraps around the sides of the head and is bonded to a titanium (what I'm going to call) 'T-plate'. The 'T-plate' is also bonded to the CNC milled face. The SIM was carbon/steel/titanium construction, the M6 was carbon/titanium/steel. Callaway's
  7. They're not held together by a screw.. They're glued on the mating surfaces, just as all other drivers are.
  8. Value isn't a price point.. it's a cost vs performance metric. The brands you've listed are "cheap".. whether or not that are "value" is a different story. I could 3D print drivers and sell them for $2.50. Doesn't mean that they're "value" drivers. The reason the clubs in TXG's review are listed as "value" is because the performance is on par (if not, better) with clubs that are from $100-$300 more. If a club from a brand that is cheaper than the Srixon/Cobra/Mizuno trio, performs as well, it could be considered value.
  9. Was looking into the Cerakote/ing product (completely unrelated to golf), and noticed they had a few putters in their gallery. A few of the putters in the gallery are "Brooklyn Golf Company" putters. So I jumped on google and found the website.. $250 for the cheapest version. And jeez, do they look unforgiving or what!? Surely they're just a talking piece sort of thing!? BKGOLFCO Putters
  10. Usually a new grip that isn't the same weight as the original will result in distance control being off.. All putts tending to one sided miss makes me think that the grip just isn't straight. Was the grip that you replaced it with, the same weight? Also worth checking the alignment of the grip. I always do my own grip and use a laser line to get the alignment perfect. 1 or 2° can have you missing the hole instead of dropping the ball in the centre of the cup at 8ft.
  11. I started playing again in January this year after 10 years off.. I wouldn't even say I was a "golfer" 10 years ago. I just played once a month or so with mates and/or my Father. I never shot lower than 100. The bug bit me hard after playing a corporate golf day at the beginning of the year, and I've been practicing and playing every chance I can get since then. My goal was to break 90 by July and 80 by New Years. Ended up breaking 90 in February but then things went down hill after things got crazy at work. Since July, I've been back into it hard! got a skytrak setup in the garage and fo
  12. Grass on a golf course is fairly soft. I'm guessing the softer floor more closely resembles what you're going to experience when you're actually playing golf.
  13. I'm guessing the tests that you're referring to are in the driver shootout/bracket. The higher ball speeds were him ripping the driver as hard as he could during the shootout. Club head speed averaged over 125mph within the shootout test. Matt's 'gamer' swing is around 115-118mph. These are the speeds seen in the ZX driver test (and the majority of other tests outside of the driver shootout). Always best to ensure you're comparing apples to apples.
  14. I was hoping to see it in use by the tour players, but Rickie was still using the F9 at Mayakoba.. He really does love that thing.
  15. -Another Update- I played 9 holes with one of the brand new balls, to see how it faired after some use. I played horribly so the ball saw 2 adventures into the water (retrieved with my I GOTCHA JAWZ), multiple bunker shots and a lot of chips after missed approach shots. I also went overboard with the ball washer on every tee box. The images below show the #8 "New" ball after 9 holes, in between two of the "Mint used" golf balls. Visually, I would consider the #8 ball to be in worse condition than the used balls, after the 9 holes of play. As you can see, there is still an even glow ov
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