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Everything posted by McGolf

  1. from a to original point of view The Titliest clubs are chrome plated when you see rust that means the plating has been worn. The club would need to be stripped and rechromed. from an I'm just figuring out what I can accomplish point of view. a nylon wheel on a drill or on a bench grinder can remove the rust without much damage to the head. Then a polishing with a black rouge and switch buffing wheel will deliver a high polish look however rust will reappear because the chrome is worn off. For removing the shaft labels I'd suggest using acetone, I dont have any experience with goo gone but Im sure can work. removing the head makes it easier to clean and polish but not required depending on your level of effort.
  2. I think the sizing may be a bit over when measuring. I liked the small (which is big!) and I believe I'm sized to a large
  3. For clarity, not everyone saw an increase in distance. Two golfers did not see an increase. That said a majority of the golfer did see an increase and some saw an additional reduction in the landing pattern i.e. more consistency. Does this mean any size will produce those results? Not even close. Much like getting fit for a standard grip then is a point of no return in the larger grips too. The biggest issue with the grip is a magnitude of change for the golfer or acceptance of the size even when the results are there. Basically out of a comfort factor. I'm going to try them after this last set of testing. Might be a good video jumbo max a year later.,,,,
  4. Had to read the entire thread to get a better idea of the questions to answer 1) something does not compute when leaving a shaft that weighs in at about 120 and you are going to a 95 g shaft the swing weights should go down by say 2 ish points. If we assume , yes i know what happens when we do that, you should see about a D1 D0 with a standard grip. So a D2.5 is not to far off the beaten path. 2) if you decided to go with a slightly larger grip that is your choice by either preference or by the fit. Depending on the grip used in the demo cart which is typically a tour velvet type grip, the difference may required a 4 ish gram tip weight. You probably wont get to it exactly but the feel will be comparable. 3) as posted, don’t get to hung up on the swing weight. You were striping D2.5 if it feels good swinging then you should be ok. From a build stand point a swing weight point in the either direction is in a spec as most folks can’t feel the difference of 3. 4) adding weight to the head will only really start to move the CoG when you approach 10 g
  5. If you just want the finish off you can start with a nylon wheel such as a greenine chucked in a drill or a bigger version on a grinder. Then move up grit until its removed. Looking for a faster method then sand paper at about 100 to 120 can do the job too.
  6. I had one a putter i used for a season and recommend them
  7. yu might look into the pure grip selection, might be tapered enough but tacky
  8. Id check out the flightscope mevo+. plenty of other parameters monitored easy to set up.
  9. My rep came by - the V sole is there but not as pronounced as it predecessors. The weight is moved ever so slightly with a cleaner bade. The Biggest leap for them is the ZX4 this is a massive improvement to the clunky half baked version. It worked but just didnt look right to me. The new model is in line wit he ZX5 and 7 and looks fanatastic. The woods improved too. how much remains to be seen.
  10. every designer i have talked with have said grooves are there to allow debris to move away . meaning dew, grass etc.
  11. Just finished testing with the 115 shaft as compared to the 115 spinner in my gammer. There is something to the shaft. although not 100% it is a good shaft. Video to follow
  12. The HL irons are going to be the surprise performers, unfortunately only in RH. Did some fittings and they are working great. The 923 forged and tours to come shortly.
  13. Mcgolfshop@roadrunner.com or clubmaker@Mcgolf.net. We just had two from Louisville this last weekend
  14. You may look to irons with a weaker loft, for instance the hot metal hl can very well give you a better result than regulars hot metal model.
  15. to keep the topic on track. I use the sticker. I used the sticker when trying to find length. All I need is the impact location. I dont use those numbers as real but as representative. After finding the proper length the "real golf balls" come out.
  16. Im glad to know he watching me. balancing the shaft is a chicken or the egg type is discussion. There is always two camps, there are always two opinions and always two results. Im the one that says removing the inconsistencies. Because it does. His analogy of the 3 tires is a bit flawed. He is talking about deformities(flats) or hard spots etc. on the shaft which cause the inconsistencies and yes are always there but can be over come. Using the car tire story, I would say this is closer to the example: when you get tires on your car there are inconsistencies from rims or tires being a bit our of round or heavy to one side etc. the application of a weight puts them into round for a better ride. spinning imo is used in conjunction with FLO to get the better set up like the car tire. The statement is made that spinning, floing puring it is not necessary however if you get a bad shaft send it back. How would you know if you didn't test it? Hence the reason we do. The real question is does it work????? Which is the question he is trying answer. There is as much evidence to support either opinion. golfers will say " I got it done and it didnt do a thing." or "I had it done and it worked great!" did you have a bad / good golf day?" Result are "mostly" emotional and made on the first outing when golfers talk to the subject. In golf there are few if any absolutes. This is among them.
  17. The tip weights were installed to make up for light head weights to obtain a particular swing weight. The 919s IMO run a bit light however it is unknown the size of the weight in each shaft as they certainly can be different. lastly and already posted is the fit of the shaft into the head. the 919s are .355 and hoping the AMTs are also 355 at the tip. If that it true and the weight can be in the way making for a sloppy fit. Id take them out, do the dry fit as suggested and then weight them to your liking (if needed) and have fun making the set.
  18. Guys , thanks for the input. This is a 42 min video to talk about 3 mistakes, there is a bunch of other info if you watch / listen Again thanks and there is enough information to do a a second one of these concerning tools, work flow etc.
  19. Funny that was on my test to certify as a clubmaker. First time think it would be my last. But I’ve had to call the skill up a few times. Way more slow moving when you don’t do it for a while
  20. I was going to add some of the "most unique" methods of a club repair, I was suggested, once, to remove a club head get a WOK and some play ground sand. Place the club in the sand and heat up the WOK and the then pull it. That way the paint is protected....... Ya I thought the same thing. SO far its grip and the install Measuring the club how its put together. anymore? like to hear the stories.
  21. I suppose I should have posted also My first mistake was buying the wrong tip shaft for the head to install my second was trying to glue it in. My third was hurting myself going to get the head after it flew off, LOL that was more pride than anything else. However the third was knowing what the real length of the club was or how figure it out.
  22. I am working a topic for a video on my youtube channel and live stream (wanted to put that out first for clarity). The top three mistakes clubmakers make. What were the first three mistake you made starting out building golf clubs? tools, techniques, work spaces etc. all are in play. when there is enough input Ill address them to help future clubmakers going forward. Thanks in advance
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