McGolf

The short answer is yes, it can make a difference. However, dont get wrapped around the axel. An indoor fitting can just has good and if not better than outside. For instance if you go to the range with your perfect golf balls and whatever launch monitor and you hit into a 10 mph head win you wont see the typical 275 yd shot off the tee nor proper flight. This is the same argument as hitting off a mat. they (fitting areas) all have pros and cons, It comes down to the person operating the gear and integrating the data into the fitting. As Per Ricky above Back to the ball, range balls are hard, greasy, and very durable. That's why they are range balls. In lower irons say from 7 or 8 iron down you probably wont see a bunch of performance difference except spin however not by a lot. When you go up in club selection the range ball will under perform about one club length due to the lack of rebound and added spin. I would suggest warming up with the range ball and if finding parameters such a length then its apples to apples. However when doing performance testing use a real golf ball from the same category you like, meaning if you are used to hitting a prov, don't test with a Callaway super soft. Too muddy the water even more, If you concentrate on the ball and find the one you have been using a poor selection be open to change. :)

As I am sure you figured out the paint fill of the cavity has a texture and appears to be decently thick. If you can recreate the look then I d say repaint it. to me it almost looks power coated. If regular paint is available as it is to us regular folk. I would consider sand blasting the cavity to give it the rough surface then paint it to match the set. As far as paint fill goes a little dab will do ya. some amount of acetone or nail remover can do the trick with a dental tool (harbor freight) to remove paint. to put it back in this case Id consider a the paint bottle with the needle to minimize the spread. and wipe directly.

the ID for many of the "low torque" shafts is smaller than a regular shaft. Extending it may not be an option and if so would take some skill. Removing the OEM is also tougher. The multilayer grip doesn't simply blow off and you run the risk of damaging a needle with the solvent method. The later is more likely to work imo.

a greenie, either a square pad or on a wheel for your drill can do the job. after any of the cleanings you choose. put a coat of car wax on it to slow the process down from re occurring

Some first timer tips: 1) don't sweat swing weight, most golfers cant feel a 3 pt change. 2) check the weight of each component head shaft and grip. Ferrule don't weigh enough to impact the SW or total weight of the club. I will say the BB and F is the heaviest. yes I've weighed them. If the span of weight in the shafts and grips is only a few grams then you are OK. Look for a 7 gram increase in the clubs heads plus or minus 2 grams. if you are go there then build goes much easier. 3) tip prep is essential to a good bond for the epoxy. Golfworks, wells a great 24 hr glue that will do the job. Ive used them for years. 4) as far as tools are concerned the best starting out tools is a vice / shaft clamp / 48 " ruler / scale / some sort of tubing cutter for steel / sand paper / a paint drip pan with the above stuff you can assemble a set of clubs. lastly, enjoy the ride, its a great hobby, If you need some info my channel is all about golf clubs. McGolf

As can be seen by the avatar I own McGolf Custom Clubs, A club fitting and club repair shop in Waverly, Ohio. We recently shut down the practice range to increase our presence on social media. We have youtube MCGOLF and facebook page . We have doing this since 1999 The other 40 hours of the week I am a director of emergency services for a uranium enrichment facility undergoing D and D

I game the CS putter style. The 2 i would highly recommend is the Makefield original. I have 2 and the LAB mezz Max, got it from MGS testing. Both are great the makefield has the moveable interior weights such if the stroke were to change you could move some around to help keep you in the same path. The face milling is unique too. The LAB putter does exactly what is says it will do. It looks like the tank from Tron but after a few putts you don't even see the putter. In either case I super highly recommend the low torque putter shaft.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=press there is a one ton option or a floor model at 12 ton. for $100 buck more the floor model would be my choice.

Harbor freight makes a small press that will hold the club and control the way you press into the club

This was a marathon live stream and it was awesome, (in my opinion). Some good info from Gawain of ACCRA golf and some good fitting tips too.

We will be conducting a Live-stream Monday 1730 or 530 pm eastern time Talking about The ACCRA golf shafts with the CEO Gawain. We will be discussing the new line up and all things golf shafts . Why because Im an equipment nut. you can find the livestream on youtube (Mcgolf Custom Clubs) or Facebook and X both under mcgolf custom clubs

thanks guys

Using the 70 X and going after it would require a significant jump in speed to get an physically unstable shaft. Id suggest using the mevo and if you are not seeing about a 10 mph or better jump then it may the person at the end of the shaft.

So the idea of being on a staff deal is to represent the brand offering you the deal in the best light possible. If you cannot perform well or talk about the brand well then there is no sense of taking that deal. Figure out what works best play and have fun

I did not read any of the comments on purpose to answer: Based on the post above it would seem you really did not attend a fitting. You may have gone to a place such as big box store to "test drive" a golf club and yes the person watching is following orders to push a particular brand based on his supervisions direction. Ok that's business. If you are looking for a fitter that has your best interests in mind I would suggest that you look for one that starts with finding the best parameters for your game THEN making recommendations based on the manufacturers availability because contrary to popular opinion not every maker has a club to fit you.

There are a ton of categories to choose from. If I were to break them down: Drivers: you already have them, Smoke, Q10, Wilson Ti, St Max Irons/ Wedges: a compare of the hollow bodies, Mizuno 245, Paradym Smoke, Tm 790, Then the wide soled wedges. Callaway CB and W grind wedges. Putter: you guy already did a solid for me,. but Makefield, or even try the Capto EZ for a golfer improvement item. Range finding: if there is a company that make a GPS device and a range finder. Put them side by side to see which one benefits the golfer better. A hands free push cart. jumbo max grips. and because Im me, how about a gripping station.

294s are virtually a unicorn. I do have some old wood wood shaft I believe are 270s, but would be tooooooooooo soft for the putter Since it is a putter you might consider making cuts the length of the shaft much like the callaways did woods and irons in the day. Using a 355 shaft while making a 3 or 4 cuts may allow you the need room for insertion. If it did not go in far enough then I would look at reaming it to 320 ish

If you are a digger of sorts with the irons a high bounce number is a great start. That means the leading edge will not turn into a shovel directly as you interact with the turf. the rearward "bump" in the sole acts like a ski to prevent divot the size of Rhode island or breaking your wrists at impact with the turf. a possibility for the disposition to the rearward sole design in that your swing is not a severe version of chopping wood and more towards a golf swing.

I was going to mention the post mount over the hosel also. However The ferrule threw me off. You can tell about the hosel by using a drill bit. Clean out the hosel, then try to insert the a 3/8 drill. The tip of the shaft is 370 and 380 is a typical dimension to receive the shaft and make room for the epoxy. Yes use centering beads. The drill may not go in easily or all the way but you should be able to tell. If it doesnt go in at all then try another drill and do a decimal conversion. Chances are the putter will need a 370 or 355. As far as finishing goes. you could remove the chrome with a grinder, sand wheel or sanding belt. BUT!!! you will remove the protection from rusting. You could polish to a high shine and it will look good as long as is is sealed with something as simple as car wax. It will also be lighter. As this is a first time into building that may not be a big deal.

If you want to see it in action

LOOOK another guy working with LEFTY golf clubs,,,,,,,,,,,, We had to go to another country but hey a win is a win

typically,,,,, if a golfer tends towards hitting irons well, has a steep attack angle or demonstrates they dont like woods is a candidate for hybrids. the opposite is true for fairway woods. A 7 wood, is the bridge between to the two sets of clubs. it is shorter and more upright design as compared to a 3w.

I prefer the 4+ grip because my lower hand is dominant and helps with the pulls

typically if using double sided grip tape (not carpet tape) results in twisting two things may have occurred. An air bubble got trapped, easily fixed with a needle or tip of an exacto knife. 2 ) the core size and shaft butt end are very different. Lastly and a bonus the grip actually sucks. this happened to me using CP2 grips where the core just would not grip after 2 seperate attempts a quick stick with a knife and some heat to dry the solvent worked.