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Everything posted by McGolf

  1. Aggreed with asking the fitter. Who ever is feeding you the lie angle thumb is taking you down the wrong path. Think of it this way, As the length of the club shortens the lie angle goes up. So, if you really hit the .5 inch shorter club better and every thing else is equal then at least a .5 degree upright adjustment is needed. From only the info above I would GUESS that either you have a more upright swing plane than the average golfer or the fitter is trying to help with a slice. There so many variables that a fitter can look at for making a decision on the equipment choosen for you that
  2. I have the cast in my bag with the KBS tour 90s. Great clubs. For the shaft, for low cost and low torque etc the XCal is a good choice.
  3. Put the color ferrules on the new head with the new shafts and finish off with you favorite grip. Those will look sweet and turn heads at the same time
  4. Cycle the hot water trick will work. I would also measure each club and ensure you have a proper gapping in length between the clubs. If it appears there is more or less than the traditional 1/2 between clubs have them looked by a guy to make sure the heads are not slipping
  5. What dont you like about the spinners that you need to change the shafts. The are planty to choose from. The Rifle 8 iron spinner trick is a good one for higher ball flight. How many full shot are you hitting with the wedges
  6. Although the X1 would be great for practice and direct feedback. It is not the X2, That model is for fitters and teachers and has more option available than the X1
  7. I have an artifical green in my range and it is a great putting surface. no sand or rubber needed. I also had a putting green in my back yard that needed sand and needed the sand worked into the fibers. Both needed a crushed rock base compacted to the shape needed. The backyard green was purchased specificially for pitch shots. It was worthless for that and the speed of green only got faster as time wore on. REALLY FAST The current green at the range will take a small pitch and bounce horribily on the first hop then calms downs well after that. I have a hard surface under the turf for dur
  8. Paul, If Columbus is ok for a trip spend the slightly longer time in the driver seat and go see Bill at Conquest Golf. You will not be disappointed. Jim McGolf
  9. I would offer another idea in that torque is a measurable quantity that is reported differently. Most torque on shafts is a measure of a 1lbs weight on an arm 1ft long to get ft/lbs of torque however if you put a 2lbs weight on a 6 in arm you can report the same result differently and not to mention if you leave the units off and then internally conduct your testing your testing using metric system numbers. Then the issue is the club head does not weight a pound but at least it's a reference that we are used too. I would also suggest that it's not that shafts fault for having a particular
  10. I attended the Golfworks 5 day fitting and repair class Completed the masters class at Golfworks Completed the Rifle class at swing science. among other certifications. To learn about clubmaking I would recommend that group for a great atmosphere and great people. There are however other companies. Mitchell and Golfsmith. Mitchell is still active and has a few classes with great equipment. Golfworks may still have classes but the company is gearing more towards OEM stuff than component stuff. Although not free as in surfing youtube and the forum the courses are packed with info,
  11. THe fairway wood head being heavier than a driver head will make the shaft react as if it were more flexible. Most likely by about a flex. That said the NV is a stiff tip type shaft and placing in the FW head as is will make it slightly more forgiving from a try to get the ball higher perspective. Traditionally, one would trim a shaft about an inch to place it in a FW However if you are a feel player it will feel light and might lose it in the back swing.
  12. We carry them in shop I have the X factor and mrs McGolf has the bling belt. Big boys ( like me) no worries the make them in xl!
  13. The same line up with a an addition or two to fill some gaps in profiles and some new graphics to get the shaft noticed. Not loud but classic I think.
  14. Using the power is a great way to get it done right and quick. using the sandpaper techniques is great for a few clubs but you run a bigger chance of things going wrong with that than a belt IMO
  15. As stated, I would check the clubs for specs to see if there is something a bit off such as loft, lie, length, flex make sure there is progression change. Assuming there is change and the clubs match I would look to soft stepping to keep the fell similar
  16. Using a belt sander I would recommend a 1 x 42 belt sander going at 1800 rpm the belt can be the blue felt belt or linen belt. Why a belt going that speed? allows for mistakes and low impressions into the ferrule. Some folks use a table top sander running at 3600 and a 1 x 30 in size. It can be done but you must be very very gentle when applying pressure.
  17. In most cases using a butane torch which is a low cost purchase is the best bet for any pull. There are other low cost screw type pullers or go to EBAY for hydraulic units for $100 or less units. Both are far better than a crow bar. It would appear you will do this more than just this time. a puller is a great investment. Remember to apply the heat in a back and forth motion no more than 15 sec on any one side. Then move about 45 deg and do again and one more time in just about every case you can pull the head or adapter. About 45 to 60 sec is all that is needed. If it does not remove then w
  18. The putter fitting article is a great read. I met Bruce when was across the street at swan lake. The SAM unit is a great piece for letting you know what you are doing with your current putter. But what you need to know is what putter can help you with the thins you do. Test for length maybe eyes are not in the right spot to see the line, test for AIM once length found check for AIM using different offsets. Check for weight. and where the weight goes on the putter. Bottom line the ball has to get into the hole
  19. All access to the next threee majors with a pro am invite to a local PGA event. Sit down with major manufacturer designers for input for the next new club design. Full access to the fitting areas of a major player in the industry. 1 of 3 works for me
  20. A few things come to mind. One the shorter length is probably putting you into the best part of the club resulting in better flight. Two, the two shafts are of different profiles and the Motore most likely is a better fit than the other shaft. Also the lofts might also be a better fit even if they say te same loft they may NOT be. I think choke down an 1.5 inches and see if it works
  21. I met the fella that does a lot of Muira irons on the Island in New York. He has a different colored ferrule on each club with a different colored grip from Iomic Although I am not running out to make a rainbow set of iron but it did give and opportunity to see if I like the ferrules. The colors offered are far better than the pictures show.
  22. I like the colored ferrules, Its the length that disagrees with me. Long is old school and has its place on some clubs but now the new model just need something a bit shorter.
  23. Mechanical engineering, materials specialty, cad
  24. Take a look at the "HIGH LAUNCH" x flex. even if the flex is mega stiff the profile of shaft can certainly change the way the ball comes off the club. v2 HL is a tip flexible shaft that adds well launch and spin. I'm guessing when you put a tighter shaft say an AXIV black or VTS tourspx xflex black too stay in the UST company would be a great choice
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