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Posts posted by McGolf

  1. I would have to say that If you are hitting the clubs with a length that is 1" over well then it is probably the proper length for you.

    You are correct the fitting is the thing to do, it may find that the one inch over is just right.


    Adding length to the club can add to the swing weight, as previously posted, add weight to the total weight which is as important, take a bit extra time to deliver the club to square. Although not as a apparent as in a iron as a driver. Again, if YOU are hitting better then by all means use it.


    Using the wrong length can cause you to lose distance via off center hits, poor contact etc. Length is an important spec in a golf club for better golf


  2. Aggreed with asking the fitter. Who ever is feeding you the lie angle thumb is taking you down the wrong path.

    Think of it this way, As the length of the club shortens the lie angle goes up. So, if you really hit the .5 inch shorter club better and every thing else is equal then at least a .5 degree upright adjustment is needed.

    From only the info above I would GUESS that either you have a more upright swing plane than the average golfer or the fitter is trying to help with a slice.

    There so many variables that a fitter can look at for making a decision on the equipment choosen for you that the person to ask is the fitter first.

  3. I have an artifical green in my range and it is a great putting surface. no sand or rubber needed.

    I also had a putting green in my back yard that needed sand and needed the sand worked into the fibers.

    Both needed a crushed rock base compacted to the shape needed.  The backyard green was purchased specificially for pitch shots.

    It was worthless for that and the speed of green only got faster as time wore on. REALLY FAST

    The current green at the range will take a small pitch and bounce horribily on the first hop then calms downs well after that. I have a hard surface under the turf for durabilty, no doughnut rings etc. If using just the ground it might take a shot better.

    While doing research for my green I found a company that promoted its product as being able to take a 150 yd shot.

    Remember to consider drainage, warranty for color fade, this is directly related to the durability.

  4. Hello everybody

    I am wanting to go get fitted for a driver I am trying to decide where to have this done. I live in western Ohio and my options as far as I know are dicks sporting goods, golf galaxy and bobicks golf(golf store in ft. Wayne). I know there are several smaller closer options but they don't have track man or any high tech gear of any type. The big three that I named first are all about 65 miles at best from my house. So which would you go to and why?






    If Columbus is ok for a trip spend the slightly longer time in the driver seat and go see Bill at Conquest Golf. You will not be disappointed.



  5. I do appreciate both of the answers particularly from such trusted sources - everything I had read indicated the lack of industry standard but it almost seems as if there is no such thing as the platonic torque - you can't measure it in its absolute another words.


    I like the Meh as long as its in a certain range response I'm getting the sense that this is the real truth.

    I would offer another idea in that torque is a measurable quantity that is reported differently. Most torque on shafts is a measure of a 1lbs weight on an arm 1ft long to get ft/lbs of torque however if you put a 2lbs weight on a 6 in arm you can report the same result differently and not to mention if you leave the units off and then internally conduct your testing your testing using metric system numbers. Then the issue is the club head does not weight a pound but at least it's a reference that we are used too.


    I would also suggest that it's not that shafts fault for having a particular torque for the particular swing but our job to find the proper torque for the average swing we produce. It's about the load placed on the shaft during the swing not swing speed. I would suggest again that yes the swing motion does applies the load but think of two different golfers such as Ernie Else and nick price. Both swing about the same speed but load the shaft differently.


    Finally, the above example also will relate flex into mix. In almost every shaft the torque will increase with flex in that model.

    So finding the proper flex, profile torque is all important for a good shaft for you

  6. I attended the Golfworks 5 day fitting and repair class

    Completed the masters class at Golfworks

    Completed the Rifle class at swing science.

    among other certifications.


    To learn about clubmaking I would recommend that group for a great atmosphere and great people.

    There are however other companies.

    Mitchell and Golfsmith.

    Mitchell is still active and has a few classes with great equipment.

    Golfworks may still have classes but the company is gearing more towards OEM stuff than component stuff.


    Although not free as in surfing youtube and the forum the courses are packed with info, focus to the tasks and information is readily available without hunt and peck but it costs $$$$. IMO worth every penny

  7. Thanks Maverick!

    THe fairway wood head being heavier than a driver head will make the shaft react as if it were more flexible. Most likely by about a flex. That said the NV is a stiff tip type shaft and placing in the FW head as is will make it slightly more forgiving from a try to get the ball higher perspective.

    Traditionally, one would trim a shaft about an inch to place it in a FW However if you are a feel player it will feel light and might lose it in the back swing.

  8. I need to grab a few to try out myself, lol. Just posting it as I saw it posted elsewhere. I've yet to hit anything out of this family yet. Makes me wonder what Robin has up his sleeve

    The same line up with a an addition or two to fill some gaps in profiles and some new graphics to get the shaft noticed. Not loud but classic I think.

  9. Using a power tool to turn down a ferrule is a lazy attitude. Just trim it down to size with a paper cutter blade, round it out with a bit of 200 grain and shine it back with a wipe or two of acetone.




    Using the power is a great way to get it done right and quick. using the sandpaper techniques is great for a few clubs but you run a bigger chance of things going wrong with that than a belt IMO

  10. Hello everybody I have a question for the tech guys.

    I play x100 shafts on my VR pro Blades. And I just bought a vr pro combo 4 iron and love the added forgiveness but I'm lacking distance I hit my 5 iron about 175 but my new 4 iron I hit about 176 LOL. My question is should I put a S400 in to gain some extra distance or soft step a x100 I know very little about this topic so any input would be greatly appreciated.


    Thanks Walkerjames.

    As stated, I would check the clubs for specs to see if there is something a bit off such as loft, lie, length, flex make sure there is progression change. Assuming there is change and the clubs match I would look to soft stepping to keep the fell similar

  11. That's what I was afraid of. Oh well, still worth it for the mower blades.


    Do you know what the max RPM you would want to be able to turn a ferrule is?

    Using a belt sander I would recommend a 1 x 42 belt sander going at 1800 rpm the belt can be the blue felt belt or linen belt. Why a belt going that speed? allows for mistakes and low impressions into the ferrule.

    Some folks use a table top sander running at 3600 and a 1 x 30 in size. It can be done but you must be very very gentle when applying pressure.

  12. I know some of you have used a crowbar shaft puller before. I pulled out the shafts on my wedges today, which is the first time I've pulled a shaft. I timed it on the first wedge and it took about 8 minutes of heat to be able to twist off the shaft.


    However, I couldn't for the life of me get the head off with the crowbar. Did I not wait long enough for the glue to melt? My next pull is to remove the adapter on a 910H and I'd rather not destroy the shaft, so any advice would be appreciated.



    In most cases using a butane torch which is a low cost purchase is the best bet for any pull.

    There are other low cost screw type pullers or go to EBAY for hydraulic units for $100 or less units. Both are far better than a crow bar. It would appear you will do this more than just this time. a puller is a great investment.

    Remember to apply the heat in a back and forth motion no more than 15 sec on any one side. Then move about 45 deg and do again and one more time in just about every case you can pull the head or adapter. About 45 to 60 sec is all that is needed. If it does not remove then wait about 30 sec and start over

  13. The putter fitting article is a great read. I met Bruce when was across the street at swan lake.


    The SAM unit is a great piece for letting you know what you are doing with your current putter.


    But what you need to know is what putter can help you with the thins you do.


    Test for length maybe eyes are not in the right spot to see the line,

    test for AIM once length found check for AIM using different offsets.

    Check for weight. and where the weight goes on the putter.


    Bottom line the ball has to get into the hole

  14. All access to the next threee majors with a pro am invite to a local PGA event.

    Sit down with major manufacturer designers for input for the next new club design.

    Full access to the fitting areas of a major player in the industry.


    1 of 3 works for me

  15. A few things come to mind.

    One the shorter length is probably putting you into the best part of the club resulting in better flight.

    Two, the two shafts are of different profiles and the Motore most likely is a better fit than the other shaft.

    Also the lofts might also be a better fit even if they say te same loft they may NOT be.


    I think choke down an 1.5 inches and see if it works

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