McGolf

I'm a nippon 105 fan too., Too clean them up the simple steel wool or bar keepers friend will do the trick. Then apply a coat of wax to seal them even if temporarily. When the rust breaks through it is a sign of an ultimate failure. when there the million dollar question. If we can remember back to chrome bumpers on vehicles. tough as nails, looks good until the first rust spot shows up. A quick clean and everything is good until the next one and the next one and so on. the bumper still works just looks bad. until you need it.... Do i think it will collapse in a year, no but if not kept clean and out of the environments maybe sometime after.

count me in for pinehurst !!! I put down the deposit just now

Just so Happens that episode went over 40 mins just talking golf stuff. We went nutty and it was great. I think because of that we also just a minute ago reached 30k in subscriber's. We are just bowled over at the following. The Mizuno HL will be a surprising good at least from testing.

no I'm not cutting them in half. but I did test them with a wedge, iron and driver and had a 0 HC and a Plus HC test them

from a to original point of view The Titliest clubs are chrome plated when you see rust that means the plating has been worn. The club would need to be stripped and rechromed. from an I'm just figuring out what I can accomplish point of view. a nylon wheel on a drill or on a bench grinder can remove the rust without much damage to the head. Then a polishing with a black rouge and switch buffing wheel will deliver a high polish look however rust will reappear because the chrome is worn off. For removing the shaft labels I'd suggest using acetone, I dont have any experience with goo gone but Im sure can work. removing the head makes it easier to clean and polish but not required depending on your level of effort.

a surprise from Mizuno

I think the sizing may be a bit over when measuring. I liked the small (which is big!) and I believe I'm sized to a large

For clarity, not everyone saw an increase in distance. Two golfers did not see an increase. That said a majority of the golfer did see an increase and some saw an additional reduction in the landing pattern i.e. more consistency. Does this mean any size will produce those results? Not even close. Much like getting fit for a standard grip then is a point of no return in the larger grips too. The biggest issue with the grip is a magnitude of change for the golfer or acceptance of the size even when the results are there. Basically out of a comfort factor. I'm going to try them after this last set of testing. Might be a good video jumbo max a year later.,,,,

Had to read the entire thread to get a better idea of the questions to answer 1) something does not compute when leaving a shaft that weighs in at about 120 and you are going to a 95 g shaft the swing weights should go down by say 2 ish points. If we assume , yes i know what happens when we do that, you should see about a D1 D0 with a standard grip. So a D2.5 is not to far off the beaten path. 2) if you decided to go with a slightly larger grip that is your choice by either preference or by the fit. Depending on the grip used in the demo cart which is typically a tour velvet type grip, the difference may required a 4 ish gram tip weight. You probably wont get to it exactly but the feel will be comparable. 3) as posted, don’t get to hung up on the swing weight. You were striping D2.5 if it feels good swinging then you should be ok. From a build stand point a swing weight point in the either direction is in a spec as most folks can’t feel the difference of 3. 4) adding weight to the head will only really start to move the CoG when you approach 10 g

If you just want the finish off you can start with a nylon wheel such as a greenine chucked in a drill or a bigger version on a grinder. Then move up grit until its removed. Looking for a faster method then sand paper at about 100 to 120 can do the job too.

I had one a putter i used for a season and recommend them

yu might look into the pure grip selection, might be tapered enough but tacky

Id check out the flightscope mevo+. plenty of other parameters monitored easy to set up.

My rep came by - the V sole is there but not as pronounced as it predecessors. The weight is moved ever so slightly with a cleaner bade. The Biggest leap for them is the ZX4 this is a massive improvement to the clunky half baked version. It worked but just didnt look right to me. The new model is in line wit he ZX5 and 7 and looks fanatastic. The woods improved too. how much remains to be seen.

every designer i have talked with have said grooves are there to allow debris to move away . meaning dew, grass etc.

Just finished testing with the 115 shaft as compared to the 115 spinner in my gammer. There is something to the shaft. although not 100% it is a good shaft. Video to follow

The HL irons are going to be the surprise performers, unfortunately only in RH. Did some fittings and they are working great. The 923 forged and tours to come shortly.

Mcgolfshop@roadrunner.com or clubmaker@Mcgolf.net. We just had two from Louisville this last weekend

You may look to irons with a weaker loft, for instance the hot metal hl can very well give you a better result than regulars hot metal model.

I might know a guy,,,,,

to keep the topic on track. I use the sticker. I used the sticker when trying to find length. All I need is the impact location. I dont use those numbers as real but as representative. After finding the proper length the "real golf balls" come out.

Im glad to know he watching me. balancing the shaft is a chicken or the egg type is discussion. There is always two camps, there are always two opinions and always two results. Im the one that says removing the inconsistencies. Because it does. His analogy of the 3 tires is a bit flawed. He is talking about deformities(flats) or hard spots etc. on the shaft which cause the inconsistencies and yes are always there but can be over come. Using the car tire story, I would say this is closer to the example: when you get tires on your car there are inconsistencies from rims or tires being a bit our of round or heavy to one side etc. the application of a weight puts them into round for a better ride. spinning imo is used in conjunction with FLO to get the better set up like the car tire. The statement is made that spinning, floing puring it is not necessary however if you get a bad shaft send it back. How would you know if you didn't test it? Hence the reason we do. The real question is does it work????? Which is the question he is trying answer. There is as much evidence to support either opinion. golfers will say " I got it done and it didnt do a thing." or "I had it done and it worked great!" did you have a bad / good golf day?" Result are "mostly" emotional and made on the first outing when golfers talk to the subject. In golf there are few if any absolutes. This is among them.

The tip weights were installed to make up for light head weights to obtain a particular swing weight. The 919s IMO run a bit light however it is unknown the size of the weight in each shaft as they certainly can be different. lastly and already posted is the fit of the shaft into the head. the 919s are .355 and hoping the AMTs are also 355 at the tip. If that it true and the weight can be in the way making for a sloppy fit. Id take them out, do the dry fit as suggested and then weight them to your liking (if needed) and have fun making the set.

Guys , thanks for the input. This is a 42 min video to talk about 3 mistakes, there is a bunch of other info if you watch / listen Again thanks and there is enough information to do a a second one of these concerning tools, work flow etc.