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McGolf

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Posts posted by McGolf

  1. 56 minutes ago, Golfspy_CG2 said:

    So I took a little a scouting trip to Queenstown this morning.  The guys are in for a treat.   The River course opened from its Bermuda Fairway conversion and looked great.   Here’s a couple pics of some of the holes and fairways. 480DD742-A8D3-4133-8D4C-79146A657D97.jpegAA3D2147-125E-4D04-BB16-673905C61197.jpeg
     

    FE2DE6BF-B861-44CA-9E09-5E335F8A2996.jpeg

     

    0B9F67DE-D956-49A2-A65B-BF1AF614D3F5.jpeg

     

    Here is the great view they will have of the Par 3 second hole from their cottage  deck. 
     

    56297660-43AF-47D3-9F0E-7209E65E58B3.jpeg1E331FF9-AB0F-4FDE-8C51-4656C16EF086.jpegD8AEA1E0-69D0-436C-9F60-8A285CAFA402.jpeg

     

     

     

    unfortunately, at the 6th level of hell heat index the outdoor feature will not be of much use except they are very decorative.  

     

  2. On 7/29/2022 at 5:11 PM, MDGolfHacker said:

    @cksurfdude - the total heat index is expected to be 105* at 3PM!  At noon, it will "only" be at 101*. When we tee off it will still be a cool 92*heat index so dress appropriately and bring plenty of sunblock. SPF 200 should do it...😄

     

    MDGolfHacker

    SPF 200? bring out the stuff from ROBO COP we'll be the blue man group golfing. lol. 

    looks like the cool towel is coming out ,,,, again

  3. On 9/8/2019 at 9:02 AM, Splunge26 said:

     

    So I have recently come across a pretty beat up Scotty Studio Select Kombi for pretty cheap on eBay. As expected it’s got its fair share of knicks and dings. So I started doing some research on fixing it up, and discovered that the Scotty custom shop no longer refurbishes aluminum putters because of California state Enviromental laws.

     

    Fortunately for me I have a very large metal fab shop at my disposal, and a long background in machine tool and fab. So naturally I got to thinking about doing the job myself. Prior to this the only club work I have done is changing grips and stripping and putting in new paint-fill. So I plan on grinding out or lightly filing the dings that aren’t on the actual face of the club, and getting that all in good shape. Then I’m going to sand blast the head with the face covered up. Then I’ll take a die grinder with a little polishing bit, and give it that nice aluminum sparkle. I do however have some questions and would love to hear if anyone has done anything similar and has some answers for me.

     

    1) what grit grinding wheel have you guys used to gently correct knicks and dings? I’m tempted to use a flapper on an angle grinder instead because it’s bad practice to grind non-ferrous metal on a grinder.

     

    2)I have a mill and am considering taking of 1 or two thou from the face to restore the tool marks, and to remove some of the dings in the face. Is this generally a bad idea?

     

    3) any suggestion for grain size for the sand blaster? I also have glass beads for ultra fine worn at my disposal.

     

    Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated! Looking foreword to the feedback. Also considering making some putters in the near future, so if that your kind of thing, stay tuned!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    for like nicks Ive used 1200 grit, it will remove metal and leave behind a smooth surface. however if the love marks are a bit deep i use either a red or blue nylon belt. both leave behind a satin-ish finish. and just to remove anything in the way i use 120. 

    remilling the face could make it look cool as long as the milling is level and uniform. personally, i like mill marks but too deep and they can get in the way of a good putt IMO.

     

  4. On 6/2/2022 at 11:46 AM, fixyurdivot said:

    Well now, Golfworks has neither of the two LL units I'm considering in stock.  They are "expecting" the Economy Bending Machine on 6/20.  Reading through the reviews and Q&A's on both suggests out-of-stock to be a common issue. I spoke with customer service and they tell me that ordering now is the best bet as they fill them in priority of order.  Also that they have no ETA for the "Value Bender" at this time.  I also asked about whether I could upgrade to the higher end, brass jaw bending bar (get credit for the stock option) and they said maybe but has to be ordered by phone and approved by a supervisor. 

    Need to confirm whether I can cancel the order at anytime prior to being shipped.  Since I'm still looking at used ones through eBay, CL, etc., still a chance one could pop up.  

    And here I thought finding a budget friendly LL machine would be a snap 😐.

    Here's another question for those of you who have LL machines.  Do you also have a seperate LL gage or use the "on-board" Vernier or digital scales?  Some say they are accurate enough - particularly if you get a iron measured on a calibrated machine and know what (if any) difference your on-board scales reflect.

    Also, for lie adjustments, many argue those should be adjusted based on lie board/impact tape results anyway... that the actual value is secondary.  Curious what your all doing for measurement and calibration?

    Thanks

     

    The LL gauge is certainly more accurate. However, if using the the scale on the machine and testing to that does it matter? You are making corrections on what you just measured. Now when dealing with woods that LL gauge is needed, imo.

  5. On 7/16/2022 at 5:08 PM, TitleistMike said:

    I posted in general section with no responses and found this topic area.

     

    I bought 70s vintage muscleback iron heads. No shaft. Purely sentimental decision.

    What would be a good way to get fitted and choose a modern shaft ? I contacted two name brand commercial club fitters for shaft replacing and both only do modern heads.

    5 iron head weighs about 18g more than modern 5i.  Can I add lead tape to a modern head SAME loft to match weight and loft as starting point. I realize all sorts of cg based issues arise.

    Looking for good fit (better than TTDG300 default), not perfect set up comparing 1000 shaft choices. When I owned clubs 40 years ago, I had accles pollock stiff shafts. 

    Thanks

    70 muscle backs have massive hosels in comparison to those used today moving the COG towards the heel. this can be seen on alot of the best 70s golfers where they found the sweet spot and just hit it in the location. If memory serves the irons were also a 1/2" short than today's standards as well.  Hence the extra weight. YES DGs were the choice only becasue there wasn't much else.

    To find a shaft that will make them play like a model isnt going to happen. becasue they are not modern. However, you can make educated selections on shafts and build to a specification. those dont change (specifications) if you are in the 70s or 2000s. Over coming a heavy head is difficult, adding weight to the butt section will make the SW come down but you just added a bunch of additional weight for the sake of SW.  I would suggest a lighter version of the DGs or KBS or Nippons of the same category you prefer. Meaning, if you like or play DGs a DG 105 or KBS tour 105 or modus 105 in the same flex can help. I know they are not the same just throwing out there similar models and lighter weights.

  6. On 6/30/2022 at 3:20 PM, RickyBobby_PR said:

    Why when trackman has been shown to be less accurate indoors than gcquad regardless of environment?

    I would find hard to believe the trackman is less accurate as a radar unit VS a camera unit  outside. Inside the radar units are impacted by fluorescent lights. 

    A fix is to layer the cover with metal screen door mesh. This distributes the particles from the lights.  

  7. On 6/28/2022 at 11:55 AM, Reesedw said:

    I replaced the grips on my clubs. I have Cobra F8's and love them. They had Lamkin REL's with Arccos in the grips. I changed to Non Arccos grips. while playing this last weekend they felt off. Head felt heavier, I did my research Lamkin REL's weigh 52g.. I did not take into account the Arccos, the Lamkin grips with Arccos come in at 65g. I know the extra weight from the Arccos grips will effect swing weight, But how much now that I do not have them?? Cobra F8's with Steel shafts should be D1, I love them but now they feel Way to heavy.. How much did I change the swing weight and is there an easy fix?? 

    @McGolf, any thoughts, or Help..  Thanks

    at just over 12 grams you should see a change of about 3 sw pt. That is a the point when most avid golfers may feel a noticeable difference in the "feel" of the clubs. The other part of the equation is the accros grip is also a bit longer to accept the disk. if you are using the club to the end of the grip it may also through of the "feel" of the club and affect it by maybe a swing point,,,, maybe.

    If you want to make the club feel lighter you can do a few things:

    1) take the grips off and put a strip of lead tape under the fingers equal to the 10 grams. The Swing weight will not come back as measured but the feel of the weight in the grip will.

    2) golf works used to sell tour lock weights. and easy way to place weight in the butt of the club. Balance certified is my choice but a bit more $$$$.

    Id take the clubs out a few more times to see if you can get used to it. If not try back weighting.

    If you are a smoother less aggressive swing the added feel of the weight can throw you off. If you are average or more aggressive in this area it may be better and take a few more swings to get used too.

  8. Sometimes the rearward hit starts with a set up the adds loft to the club.  I.e. the shaft goes straight through the head behind the ball. Most golf club except maybe 2 irons, have some level of forward shaft lean when the playing position.  Think of it much like using the loft and lie machine (mitchell) where the loft is found the shaft is leaning towards you. That imo is the lean you would see at address. 

    a far as the mat goes. I place mine on top the mat. The 1/8 plastic does throw off the reading much, keep in mind the  flight is first the reading is second. if you are getting the desired flight and distance. Why change.

  9. DLOw, the set up you have the for lie board is just fine. The issue comes in this is discussion when the lie board is placed on the hitting surface, in your case it is the hitting surface. 

    From the marking on your tape I would say a slight adjustment upright may be needed. That said, lie angle is more important in the lower end of the clubs 8-9-pw etc than the upper end. If the flight is ok to you then dont fix what aint broke. Again in the lower end, the slight tweak .5 to 1 degree  could help in the lower if you are looking to optimize directional control. 

    The second thing to address is where the mark is being made. It is on the trail end of the sole indicating a slight flick/ early release/ scoop or a slightly open club face at impact.  

    Keep in mind this measurement is not "oh you hit it so you automatically need,,,,," this is information use in conjunction the result of the ball strike. I.E. flight.  to make the proper decision. 

     

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