McGolf

It wont bring back the copper but it will clean it up. Some 000 steel wool or and aggressive greenie with alot of elbow grease will clean it up. They do make that for a drill attachment. You ca then hold the club in a vice and be a bit more precise and WAAAAY faster.

Shaft names for instance fx 65 or tx 80 dont guarantee the weight. We assume that unfortunately it occurs more often than not, Then some makers will consider the original length for the weight and some may consider the finished length for the weight who knows. In the case if the label calls out 80g, I would expect it to be somewhere near 80g +/- 4g lets say for the sake of argument. as RB suggest id get a hold of the folks at true temper/ PX and ask. You may actually have a fake

I dont know much about GCs outside my little world down here past the banjo music. however a quick web search revealed two places that continually pop up in top courses to play. The Virtues and Stonelick. One is near the original course and the other is near Cincinnati. I played Stonelick but has been years... since I ve played.

not to be a Debbie downer but this was on the front page of the their website We are excited to host the Ohio Public Golfer's Associations Mid-AM May 14 and 15. You must be over 25 years of age to enter and this event is an individual scratch tournament. If you are interested in competing, go to www.opga.us for info and entry. Might want to consider another venue

actually lead is the easiest to take out IMO. once you find the proper/ desired weight you will have to take apart the club insert a tip weight and put them back together trimming as needed. to get back to the original length

Not being snotty here but some questions/answers to the questions: 1) Why add 8 grams? you are getting light weight shafts for some reason, the club is going to be light. Yes you can add weight to get to a particular SW however it will be "feel" the same. since you are tinkering, tinker without the weight first. Then add some lead tape to the head until you get a good feel, measure it and re assemble the heads with the same amount of weight. That's the whole idea of tinkering. 2) The club doesn't care what the material of the tip weight is. the installer might. Brass is popular because lead is baaaaddddd (yes this is sarcastic). Like most things its the amount of exposure and time exposed. Although not an expert, the amount of time handling the lead would be minimal or you could wear a glove and use it just the same. Yes, drilling the of the tip to make it fit is not the best result however it works. The aero tech and other makes of shafts that use lots of layers will have small tip IDs. IMO Its a result of trying to reduce torque and making the tip stiffer. You may also find that as the weight gets lighter the tip ID gets bigger. 3) When dealing with graphite shafts, tip weighting can be a day long discussion, tungsten and cork are always part of the conversation. This method was developed for the steel shaft and not recommended for graphite for fear of creating a shear point inside the shaft and adding some gross amount of weight thus totally wrecking the profile of the shaft. I know as I am about to send this that another reader will add in and say "but I used the tungsten and cork without an issue" and that is ok. I'm just telling you that method wasn't for graphite. 4) Welcome to clubmaking and the several different ways to get to the same place. Wait until we start talking about trimming coke cans for shims. :)

Mostly the OEM would set up a jig of sorts to ensure anyone putting on the grip would put on in the same fashion. I.E lock it in a clamp with the face resting on a fence of some sort and then ensure the grip is facing the proper position. Is it measured or lasered. I doubt it. Just making the rig for easy install.

Id stay away from the oven they with the significant amount of carbon fiber in the head as part of the design, Hot metal can be moved easily with a butane torch or even a propane torch with applications of heat in 10 on 5 off intervals. about 3 -4 times in a row. The trick is to holf the club in the position you want the goo to flow too not from.

I’ve done some testing now that they are in fitting system. I’ll say that all that think it looks like another club style, that after hitting it you will think they all look like the D9

I can be done you need to know the size of the arbor as Tom said above and how the grinder or future cutting wheel is secured to the shaft. I can be free wheeling or it wont cut. In the past I had an arbor extension that held the cutting wheel. I put the wheel a bit further from the body of the unit which helped me.

Im in, sent the pay pal last night, Haven't been over the bridge in decades will be nice to visit an old stomping ground on the way there. hopefully blue crab is in season.

https://www.golfworks.com/single-spool-tape-dispenser/p/sx2td/ here one that only has one side. if you are doing more than just your own these are worth the money. Ive had mine since 2000

https://www.golfworks.com/double-spool-tape-dispenser/p/gw1100/ try this. Ive had one for years.

The answer it yes you should be concerned. The shaft twisted in the head and your ferrule is toast. Have the shaft pulled and inspected for damage in general (its not as if a clubmaker would have an atomic powered microscope to see the fibers) and reinstalled with the correct ferrule. 99 times out of 100 this is not an issue but better to check than throwing the head down the fairway.

As was posted above, RB is correct. The fitting process should be about finding the spec for your game and then applying it to the clubs available. If there is a club in the bag you cant do without, or just want to try, then as already suggest hit yours to make sure there actually is a club that can beat it. I have had a golfer come in that I fit a few years ago and still cant beat the performance by a margin that wouldn't suggest getting a new stix.

I can only attest to my experience and I do have a greater access to the company when needed. Id aggree not all fitters are on the same level. however it also means not everyone is going to get a poor fitting either and to the point a 1 -2 sw pt change would be unnoticed by the largest percentage of golfers. Most only feel the difference is when the spec sheet is read. Keeping mind of course being on mark is more preferable. To last comment about mizuno and others, I have a set of new irons that are off by more than that and will be correcting shortly. This is a shame it occurs more frequently now.

I wondered what made the mark on the ferrule. Glad you liked it. I keep getting these bright colored ferrules and none of the them are same. Pretty cool IMO

The certified fitter has access to an inside person to ask for specific parameters after the fitting. If they didn't get the swing weight they asked for then how was it in tolerance? And thats why we measure the stuff when it comes in.

If the fitter is certified with Callaway he/ she can ask for the specific parameters you want. The lie angle of the club is flatter to begin with. If you hit is well the shorter club will be easier to hit

I tried them too

KBS TGI, Possibly the ACCRA CWT series.

The LS model is a obviously Low Spin because there is more weight closure to the face of the club head. Most Cobra product is geared to get the ball airborne as is much other OEM lines including the Rogue St etc. What you want to take away from the shaft is the weight , profile, length and flex. This will get you close. however, if the club head is made to airborne do not expect the spin numbers to come down to that level.

Man and I liked doing those. I am down with not liking removing the alligator skin i.e. old grips from shafts. nothing worse than cleaning up after that. it gets every where.