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YamYam

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  1. It's fairly easy to contact Tom. His contact details are in his books, which to me sort of shows that he is prepared to put his money where his mouth is. I fully understand his comments and philosophy regarding Centre of Gravity, which is sometimes described as "the sweet spot", and the Moment of Inertia, having come from a background of aerospace engineering. Most of it is bulls*it. The sweet spot of a multicomponent assembly such as a driver, isn't necessarily located on the face of the clubhead. It could be a foot behind it. So Tom's belief that there could be any design improvement on modern clubs made my option even stronger that most improvements are aesthetic. Even many of the shafts are repainted, renamed and sold out the same but with the inevitable higher price. When you start falling out of love with your clubs it's easy to fall into the sales trap. I check in with Tom with my doubts about loss of distance etc., and then, brought back down to earth when I realise I'm getting older.
  2. I can control a Kirkby way better than a ProV1.
  3. I had a load of different cheaper type balls in my searches on eBay, including Trust. Others included Vice, Snell, Seed, Cut, On Core and Pokra to name a few that I'm aware of. I've not tried all of them, but I did find a Kirkland Signature that someone had lost in the bushes. It was virtually new and looked as though the only time it had been hit was the once that sent it to where I found it! I tried it out over 9 holes back at base and I was so sold on it, I bought several dozen. I normally use ProV1, but they are getting extremely expensive at around £4.50/ball, (do your own currency conversions). The Kirkland is retailing out from Costco at about £1.50/ball. You do lose a little distance off the drive, but not that much you would notice. Round the greens they perform exactly the same. I don'y know about the ProV1X, I've never used them. It's a no brainer!
  4. Always use wooden tees. Never plastic. If you break a wooden tee with a driver then your strike/approach angle probably isn't right, so the wooden tee peg actually gives you as bit of feedback as well as being environmentally better. If you do break them then at least the shortened peg can be used off par 3 tees or where you might use an iron, hybrid or fairway wood. I play with people who persist with plastic and I spend more time looking for their balls. Why? Well for some reason the very same players seem to have this thing in their heads that a 2p tee peg is worth more than a £4.50 golf ball because they spend more time looking for the damned tee peg and less watching where their ball is flying. If less value is applied to the tee peg, perhaps play might speed up a little more! I am not saying plastic tees haven't got a use. I do carry a few when I go to the practice ground. We don't have those rubber things you find at driving ranges, so they do come in handy for that.
  5. The real difference will be witnessed around the greens and from approach shots. You will see very little difference off the tee, especially with a driver. There's a YouTube video that's been produced recently that explains this. The guy who did this is Mark Crossfield. Have a look, it's quite interesting. As for the difference between ProV1 and Kirkland Signatures, I have just changed from the former to the latter on the strength of testing one Kirkby that I found in the bushes. The answer to that one would be there is no difference apart from the cost, which is a no brainer.
  6. I have quite a few putters. Over the years I've put a collection together. When I saw this post, I was intrigued. I had never heard of a SIK putter. I just tapped in SIK in search and my gast was never so flabbered! £799 for a putter!! I can't see me adding anything like this to my stable.
  7. Trouble is when you start meeting with lofts on say Vokeys, the bounce angle changes too and also the grinds.
  8. 48° Pitching Wedge, 54° Sand, 60° Lob. Necessity really, because I need length at the other end of the bag. Because of the disappearing loft disease, I've had to make up with hybrids. If I was allowed 15 clubs, which I feel should be allowed because of the DLD, I would change the wedge system to 48, 52, 56 and 60.
  9. What's the point in not walking when playing golf? If and when the day comes when I can only play if I have to ride on one of those infernal buggies, (or carts as the Americans call them), it's the day to pack it in and quit. For me the whole essence of the game is the walk. I want to feel the terrain under my feet. It enables me to be at one with the game and be able to see and play the shots I need to. I can never see myself riding in a "Fatmobile".
  10. Never heard of Snell. Are they a ball used widely in the USA? What sort of balls are they? Where can I find information about them. What is a typical equivalent make that they can be compared too?
  11. I rarely buy brand new clubs now. I'm too old in the tooth. I have good idea how my game is regressing over the years so I know I need lighter more flexible shafts, but I still want the heads, so It buy the clubs with the heads but get the shafts changed. Putters and wedges I can live with, so they don't need re-shafting.
  12. I just click on the X on the and select "offensive" or "inappropriate" for all of them. They really p*SS me off!
  13. If you read Tom Wishon the fittings that most amateur players receive are basic to say the least and nowhere near the detailed standard that the professional game gets. That said, you are right. If you are paying a premium for new clubs then you deserve to have an expert custom fitting tailored to your own needs. Gone are the days when you used to go buy a "set" of irons off the peg and just play with them. The whole industry has herded everyone down the customised route. You can't buy certain clubs, such as the Titleist utility irons without having them custom fit. If this is the route that we are to be led down and the cost is going to be extortionately high then the manufacturers have to commit to making sure the product is wholly suitable. When you buy a tailor made suit, you pay for the tailor to measure you and make sure the suit fits and looks good. The same should go for golf clubs.
  14. Single length club sets aren't a new idea. I remember in the early to mid 1990s Wilson marketed a a set of irons where the lengths were all basically the same and sold to the beginner end of the market.
  15. I've not long bought a 2, 3 and 4 Titleist 712U irons. I picked them up for very reasonable prices off eBay. The shafts weren't to my liking so I got them all re-shafted the same with TT Dynamic Gold SL shafts. I've tried them against my 19°, 21° and 24° Titleist 910H hybrids and hit them just as well to about the same length but lower, so better for links courses in the wind. I haven't bought a brand new club in 8 years. Don't feel as though I need to.
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