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GPS111

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Everything posted by GPS111

  1. Not all dreams are good ones. Might be his with best intentions but someone has changed the dream into a nightmare. Selling mediocre equipment with no hope of a return, exchange, or refund is a scam masquerading as a "dream". You rented and played their course. By your admission, not the best tools for the job but they were available. Put that in the story of someone who bought the bad tools then tried to return so they could get the right tools and you have the Warrior/Patriot business model. That is my experience with them, not a perception. They will not exchange or refund and hound you until you go away.
  2. Patriot Golf used to be Warrior Golf. They changed names. There were something else before changing to Warrior Golf. Once you make contact with them you will receive a never ending supply of email and snail mail for everything under the sun they offer. I bought a hybrid and got a free 60* wedge. Wedge was great but the hybrid sucked. Six months of trying to return or get credit or anything only resulted in more mail to buy something else. I never did get nay response about the hybrid and ended up trashing it. Stay away from them.
  3. It is worth keeping my eye on. The concept is interesting. I'm interested to see how and where it hits the US and any costs. Watching to see if it hits the tour as well. Swiss PGA has about 400 members and DP World Tour has a stop in Switzerland. Have seen a couple names here but no one regularly playing in the US.
  4. Very good article and description. Being there and having a tour generates enthusiasm and excitement for what you are seeing. Factory tours are a great influence to purchasing decisions and that is what they are for. Everything looks good in the place where it is made, especially when the owner is the tour guide. You do gain a lot of insight but proof of product is not in the the glamour of the tour but in use on the course. I agree it looks good from a great article but with a hefty starting price of $640 US it is a risky price to pay to find out and a high price to try and break into a market where putters that cost half that are are winning on tour and in pro shops and on the local courses. Knowing I won't pay between $600-700 for a putter will be the thing that keeps me from trying it. Three years in business so far and working in a shop the size of an office. Not a negative but what are his sales volumes? How many is he selling and who is using any? Did you buy one? Or do sales say he stays a boutique item working in a shop the size of an office? Just making them is an invention, not a success.
  5. I don't disagree but it can't not be considered. Until we could adjust everything it was THE way to control flight through equipment. Now with all of the other adjustments it is still a consideration on how you are fit for clubs and ball flight. Explained well in this link. https://golftips.golfweek.usatoday.com/flex-point-golf-shaft-20118.html
  6. Don't lose sight of flex point of the shaft on ball height either. We have to remember this is how ball flight was influenced before larger heads and settings we could change. High, mid, or low kickpoint will have an influence on ball flight, especially with all of the tuning that can be done. I have two driver shafts I use. Both are same flex and length but one gives a high 90-105 ballooning flight and the other a mid-high 50-60' more boring flight with the same swing, set-up, and club head settings.
  7. There is some merit in " use what you bring". Before all of the advancements, like the ability to adjust, that's what we had to do. I have adjustable weights in my putter and set them to compensate for my tendency to close the face at impact (heel and toe are different weights). Other than that I leave them alone. I would need to know a whole lot more than I do about anticipating how I might perform on any set of greens and understand how to adjust accordingly for every set of circumstances. For me setting the weight for a swing I can trust did me the most good. Knowing that made it a lot easier to adjust my pace for speed of greens.
  8. GPS111

    GPS111

  9. I don't use the weights to adjust for green speed. I use them to help compensate for a tendency to not come through square at impact. I have a tendency to bring the toe through faster closing the face and launching everything to the left and can slow it down by making it heavier than the heel. Once set I do not often change it but I do periodically check based on play and tweak it if I need to.
  10. Keep the shaft. Maybe upgrade to the Cobra F8 3-4 combo wood or an F9. Won't have to change the adapter.
  11. I'm a Snell fan but gave these a go at the end of the year last year. Started the new year with the 2022 model that is supposed to be updated dimples and have to say I'm impressed. They do play differently (better) than the older version. Price is not bad weighed against Snell on a per dozen box. Snell way better when you buy the 5 dozen lot. Waiting to try the wide stripe model. Might be trying to emulate the triple track but one wide stripe is better for me. The single thin line or triple track is harder to get exactly aligned. 1 degree of at 10 feet is a miss. The wider stripe should give a better visual for alignment.
  12. It's not hard if you understand how to use it and where it fits your game. It's a specialized club just like a driver or a putter and has its time to use and it's time to leave it in the bag. It is a specialized animal and when used right when it is needed can be a stroke saver. Don't carry one because everyone else does - practice and understand to see if it fits a a gap in your game. I have one but it took a year to tame it. Now it is a three different swing club for me and gets used half a dozen times per round.
  13. I'm retired AF and was sent to Barksdale for six weeks of classes at the old SAC NCO Academy. I don't know about other courses in the area but there is a golf course on base and I've played it. Look it up or see if your son can send some information. He should be able to get you on base to play it.
  14. A 7 wood? You bet! Over the years I've had several but until now none were adjustable. I now have a Cobra King F8 adjustable 7-8 wood and never looked back. It's turning out to be that mid range utility club covering 160-180 yards depending on set-up for the course I'm playing. I dropped a 5H for it. I've been known to carry a 25 deg 9 wood as well. I find the shorter woods easier to hit in most places than the hybrids.
  15. Mine are even more extreme at 44* PW, 54* GW/SW, and 60* LW. I had a 56* SW but change it to the 54* because I wanted less bounce (change fro 12* to 10*). It works from almost all bunkers plus fits a gap in my game from a tight lie where the 12* bounce doesn't work. Her there is a 10* gap and a 6* gap but if the shots are there how many more wedges do I need? I do have a SW with a lot of bounce I can add for those courses that have that kind of sand. My set only has 12 clubs so adding when needed does not mean sacrifice something else.
  16. I'm the same way. I never did get used to a 460cc head and tried several brands over five years to try and change that. But 460cc was not the problem. The 46" shaft was along with the off the shelf specs that came with the shaft name. I did end up "dropping" to a 440cc TM 2017 M1 but that was probably more psychological than anything else. The "aha" moment was finding the right shaft with the flex, torque, and ball flight that fit my needs and getting it to the right length a half inch at a time (started at 46") I ended up at 44". It took a fitting and a Trackman to get there but at least now I'm not collecting drivers and a pile for different shafts and I have a game I can play off a drive from the fairway and usually be the last to hit in.
  17. Lots of good suggestions. I'm 68 and all of the aches you are starting to realize hit me about 15 years ago and they snuck up on me. I had to make a decision. Not about playing but about did I want to work out what was causing them and resolve it or just take something that allowed me to keep playing. In other words just mask it so I could get through. I tried the latter. Tylenol before and after playing, etc. It didn't work and I chose to not try anything stronger. All they do is mask and in the end all of the pains progressively get worse. So I went for the cause and found it was osteoarthritis in knees and ankles. No amount of things I could take were going to prevent or slow it down as I age. But I can focus therapy with little to no reliance on artificially managing symptoms and the therapy was exercise and stretching. Amazing how much better good muscle provides for less pain. So Charli is right. After 15 years of this I still take the occasional Tylenol or use some Voltaren but exercise is what kept me in the game and playing pain free. That after round Bourbon goes down so much smoother when I can enjoy it vs using it to hide the pain.
  18. I should have included this before. If you are adamant about adding a wedge look at where your current set up falls short. All of the posts suggest different lofts and gapping but have you looked at bounce on your current wedges as part of your restrictions? A 56* with 12* bounce will work well in sand or fluffy grass if sitting up but not off a tight lie on the fairway. You can open it up to almost flat for the trap or grass but try to lay it open on that tight lie and it's probably skulling across the green or into the next county. I had four wedges but found the 52*/10* gap 56*/12* sand were wasted clubs in my bag. I might be one or two shots per round from each. I ended up replacing both with a 54*/10* that works out of sand and a tight fairway and can be laid open for both shots with a high track landing like on a mattress. Totally changed the game for an 80 yard shot over sand to a tight pin that is out of range for my 60*/8* lob wedge. Yes there are 6* different in lofts but it fits my game and ranges and makes decisions on club selection lot easier. All I have to do if picture the shot I need and execute. If you don't consider bounce you'll go through a wallet of cash trying to figure it out by loft.
  19. I have seven year old heads and keep "updating" by swapping shafts and grips based on my changing abilities. I'm 68 so my game IS changing whether I like it or not and it is far different than the game I had at 38 but equipment tweaks keeps it close even though distance is the part that changed the most. But the heads I have I like. Perform well, great feel and the look at address I want so I don't want to change them. How they perform for me became a function of the shaft installed and graphite was the best move I've made. Same with grip - now softer midsize with two wraps under the lower hand. If recovering from a back injury those can be a benefit for you like they were with age for me. But don't just grab any graphite or grip. Get fit and get the loft, lie, flex, kick point, grip size, etc., combination you need then research the shafts/grips that fit your dynamic swing data. And not just with five balls eliminating the high and low. Get as much data you need per club to make an intelligent decision. Now I've said I love my heads, I am looking at foam or polymer filled heads. I tried some at my fitting and they can be a game changer for bad backs and aging bodies!
  20. Looking at the stats you gave the toss up for what to lose is between the 4H or the 5W. Distance is within 3 yards. The other stats can be misleading as the 4H has 4x the data of the 5W so are they really that much different? If it were me I'd keep the wood and ditch the hybrid. The wood has more scenarios where it can be used, especially when off the fairway or from a tee. But replacing with another wedge? I'd say maybe not. You describe a lot of drawbacks to your wedge play - tried different speeds, can't open it enough so will another wedge fill a gap in ability? Or create another problem without solving the ones you already mention? Changing a club to solve a singular problem won't help your handicap. No single club magic replaces knowing and learning what your clubs can do and practice to make them do more things. I just read an article where Tiger practices a "nine window" drill with his wedges. Draws, fades, and straight shots through low, medium, and high "window" targets. Learning what you have can do far outweighs replacing practice with another club.
  21. Began playing 50+ years ago when a sets were all the same and you were taught to "swing in a barrel". Years of playing morphed into evolving club loyalties and the realization that different shots need me to do different things and it's best to use the tool best suited no matter the brand. Currently: Driver and 3W Taylor Made M1, 5-7W Cobra F8, no hybrids, Dynacraft irons, Cleveland wedges, and an old Ping A-Blade putter but with a BTG shaft and super stroke pistol grip. I subscribed to the Nicklaus words of as you age replace longer irons with shorter woods. Tried hybrids but didn't work for me. Have always used custom irons. I subscribed to the philosophy of Sub 70 a long time ago but with Tom Wishon. Have not found an iron to knock these out if the bag yet but some of the new polymer filled heads might make that happen. And as long as the old Ping can keep me at 25-26 putts per round no need to change unless I decide to turn golf into a paycheck and at 68 yrs old that is highly doubtful!
  22. I have an old Acushnet Out 'n In sand wedge I bought in 1969. In and out if the bag over the years. Just can't get rid of it.
  23. Jaskanski makes sense. Mechanics vs material strengths are huge. So is installation. Back in the day before removable shafts and everything was made for steel, graphite shafts could be installed but to prevent what you described happening we had to " cone the hosel" or prep the head for the shaft. That meant add a chamfer to the inside hosel edge to soften it where it meets the shaft where a stress would occur and cause fiber tears and breaks. Might not be as big a factor with hosel adapters now but worth a look. That tip for the Ping driver might have a hard edge for that shaft. Same tip performs different with a different shaft so coning for this shaft might prevent what you are seeing and allow you to use it.
  24. I go with performance as the determinant of confidence. Expectation is only what drives the impulse buy. How many time have you seen a putter advertised to solve all problems then spent $300 (expectation) only to find you can't hit anything (performance) no matter what you do? Or picked up a bargain for $10 (with no expectation) and putt lights out with it (performance). I like blade putters but am I confident in ALL blades? No way. But I'm also not going to buy a dozen different ones until I find the one that works. Maybe I did that in the past trying the ones on the floor in the golf store then finding they don't work on the green. Try, try again turned into buy, buy again and a garage full of putters. Now with fittings available a lot of this can be narrowed down before I spend anything, especially if it's going to be $400. I'd go the fitting route. Expectation is higher and if it performs then expectation and performance = confidence. If not, I can go back to the fitter and fix it.
  25. Cobra made a 12 deg Long Tom 2 wood in 2012-ish time frame. 260cc head at 45" long. Worked well off a tee or off the deck. I had one and am shooting myself for not keeping it but you know how clubs go. Something new? Something goes. I replaced with a TM 3W HL. Good club but not the same. There are some Cobra Long Tom drivers and 2W on eBay periodically.
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