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top_swings

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Posts posted by top_swings

  1. 2 hours ago, KC Golf said:

    I always used a 16.5 deg 3W, but in the Fall, I decided to buy a 15 deg 3W and put it into my bag.

    I should note I never hit my 3W off the fairway.  It never ends well.  So I use a 3 Hybrid off the fairway.  The number of times I hit a 3W in any round is probably less than 2-3 times regardless of the course or tee box.  So taking my 3W out of the bag is probably not a bad option.  If you look at Decade Golf data, etc. it almost never pays to take anything but driver on most holes unless a driver is too much club and you end up driving it into a hazard.  Given my average driver distance this is rarely a problem.

    If my 15 deg 3W experiment doesn't work this Spring, I will probably get a 18 / 19 deg UW or Hybrid to replace my 3W.  It would probably get more use in my bag given its flexibility.

    Ok thanks, I was thinking having the 5 wood for long par 5’s (I hit the ball pretty far) and use the 3 or 2 iron as my 3 wood of the tee since thats the only time I used it too. Just feel more confident with the iron. And 5 woods are just so easy to hit and tons of confidence!

    3 hours ago, revkev said:

    Good question - 

    Twenty years ago already my pro was advocating that most of the players at the club go 4 wood/7 wood or hybrid.  While there are always exceptions most of people will hit a 5 wood (the equivalent of a 4 wood 20 years ago) farther than 3 wood.  The shorter shaft and a bit more loft make it easier to launch.  

    As others have written you need to use the equipment that works best for you rather than what may be seen as traditional.  You could always go for a top of the bag gapping session to see what fits your game best.

     

    What part of Connecticut are you from?  I'm a native.  Weston High '74 - haven't been there in about 15 years though.

    Thats for your input. I’m from West Hartford! 

  2. 8 hours ago, GaDawg said:

    I just looked at their website, looks to be just another company trying to ride the golf wave. Not impressed with what I saw. Additionally, for $22.99 on the gloves, I would stick with Foot-joy or other well known brands. Just my opinion........

    Yeah, I mean I kinda agree. There isn't much more you get from there glove then footjoy even though your paying more. Thicker leather is a trade off for feel and colors might not be everyones thing. 

  3. Hi everyone,

    I recently became a brand ambassador for SneakerHeadGolf and I wanted to share my thoughts and reviews on there products. I tried The North Carolina Glove, lets take a look, I want to be as unbiased as I can so I am going to be quite harsh. 

    Made from Cabretta leather, velcro and a elastic wrist. With a North Carolina color scheme, the glove was quite hot, although seemed to be very moisture wicking so it really wasn't a problem (no sweating!). This glove had a slightly thicker leather then I typically like from a FJ glove. However, it was very comfortable and felt very comparable to a FJ StaSof. The thicker glove lasted about 50% longer then my FJ glove before it ripped. Looking forward to see more of what Sneaker Head comes out with and how it compares, also planning on review more items in the future so stay tuned. If you have any questions feel free to ask. If you are interested in purchasing anything, feel free to use my code TS15 to get 15% off anything at sneakerheadgolf.com.

     

  4. Hey everyone, I was quickly fit for a 54* and 59* SM9 wedge both with 10* of bounce and S grind. For those of you that use these how does the S grind perform on flop shots and out of bunkers? Now looking on the vokey site I see that it is more geared for a square face, which I rarely hit with 59*. Am I better off switching to an M or even D grind? 

  5. 17 minutes ago, cnosil said:

    Typically the stub for a double bend shaft is vertical so you would have to potentially bend it 8+ degrees.   It would probably break before you could accomplish that and the shaft wouldn't sit flush to the head.    Your best option would be to cut the stub, weld on a slant neck, and then install the straight shaft. 

    Ok thanks, what about just installing a single bend shaft?

  6. Hey everyone, I have a Spider Tour putter with a double bent shaft. This makes it face balanced, could I theoretically swap the shaft to a straight shaft to achive more of a toe hang? As opposed to buying a new putter? Thanks

  7. Hey everyone. I am trying to figure out how to gap my wedges, I have a set of p790's 5-AW. The AW is 50* and will have faster ball speeds then my incoming vokeys. I am ready to order sm9's but trying to figure out gapping. I was planning on going 54* and 58*, but playing some more recently has lead me to remember how much I love my 60*. What do you think about doing a 56* bent to 55* and a 60*? Is 5* too much and will the AW be too long? Thanks!

  8. 4 hours ago, BostonSal said:

    I configure my bag to include a specialty driving iron which I don't attempt to hit from the fairway.

    That may not work out for you, however.  

    To bag all the long end clubs that you want, you may need to space loft gaps between only three wedges.

    That usually means not including the PW and GW that match your irons.

    I used to go with a 48-53-58 lineup to make room for a driving iron.

     

    Then Titleist dropped the 58-04 from the Vokey Spin Milled line with the SM8 genertion of the series.

    Your SM8 58° has to be a bouncier version grind that I would play.

    Anyway, I'm clueless about what to do next spring.

    Back to you, sorry.

     

    Look at your choices this way is my suggestion..

    A long iron / hybrid that I hit better from the fairway but not quite what I want on the tee.

    A driving iron that I can't hit well from the fairway but love on tight driving holes.

    Separate driving and fairway clubs resulting in wider gaps somewhere in the set.

    Or keep looking for the miracle club that I hit well from everywhere.  

     

     

     

    Yeah I’m not sure what I am going to do. I guess I will go demo some more and look at distances and gapping. Or i just swap that 4h that doesn’t really serve a purpose with a driving iron just for off the tee. 

  9. 3 hours ago, cnosil said:

    Why do you want to change the top end of your bag?  Do you just want to change?   Looking to fill a specific problem area?    You say your driver needs a new shaft or you need a new driver but don't say why.    One recommendation is to fill the gaps between driver and your most lofted club.   What are you carry distances for each club?

     

    Yeah so I don’t have a huge reason besides me not loving hybrids over long irons and that I’m playing an old set and my bag/me is ready for some new sticks. My carry distances are 

    not sure for wedges because they haven’t arrived yet and coming from different lofts. 
    Aw-120  Pw-130 9-150 8-160 7-170 6-180 5-190, 4H-195 3H-215 3W-235 D-265

     

    its really that 5 iron to 4 hybrid that im trying to work around. Unfortunately the 2 iron I hit was flying 220ish which doesn’t quite fit in, however it really doesn’t need too because i won’t hit it into greens. Thanks!

  10. Hi everyone, I have been trying to figure out what to do in the top of my bag. yesterday I hit a few utility irons and loved them but they aren't great off the fairway. I also hit a Cobra Rad 4 Iron which is loft jacked to the point where its basically a 2iron. Its super forgiving and goes miles so I was thinking maybe put that in to use both off the tee and fairway. Below is my current witb and if anyone could help me rework the top it would be greatly appreciated. 

    SM8-58 

    SM8-54

    21' P790 5-AW

    Nike 4 Hybrid- ready to be placed

    Titleist 3 hybrid- really hit this well and don't need to change it

    R11S 3 Wood- fine but open to changing to re work bag

    19' Epic Max Driver- needs new shaft or new driver

  11. Hi everyone, I have been reading a lot of the my golf spy ball reviews and I keep seeing the True Price part of the article. I understand how that works but is there anyway to ensure the ball I'm playing is actually "perfect," without obviosity cutting it open. So for example on the Bridgestone Tour B XS, there is 8% bad balls. How do I know which balls are "bad," is this possible? Thanks!

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