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Lefty19

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  • Location
    DFW- TX
  • Handicap:
    4.9

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  1. Heck- I really liked the V steel and played with you for a couple of years. I like it better than the steel head to be honest but got the steelhead from Cally Pre-Owned for under $40, shipped while looking brand new. Got the R7 ones and liked the weights, only difference between those two. I'd bought another V Steel or R7 but hard to find one in good shape and cheap... lol.
  2. Saw it on golfwrx- yeah- I'll wait for next year's model and see how this crop does first. TM is good about warranty but I'm ducking of losing 600 clams out of my pocket.
  3. Agree with everyone but especially Larryd3- get fitted and they may see something else that is causing any type of putting issue. Getting fitted and might find something that works well for your stroke and fits your eye the best. I need to do the same but always gravitated back to a mid-mallet Rossie. It just fits my stroke pattern and eye. David
  4. Check my signature... put one back in as I tried the hybrid route and didn't work out. I cut it to 41" and goes where I want when I swing correctly and gaps better. 7 WDs are coming back into players bags- whatever works for that person, great thing about golf industry, they'll sell you anything. I wasn't going to pay the price for today's tech- it works for what I need. David
  5. Great thing about living here- We can have our opinions and voices -------- wait.... I should be good on that since it isn't Politics nowadays? HAHAHA- I don't know ... Of course- lessons is the obvious choice but every club manufacturer would go out of business or make 2-3 yr. cycles.... where's the fun on here if that's the case. Sounds like you have no faith in that driver- get it resolved by fitting, lesson or dump it and go to something that can take care of the slot. Go up on loft whatever- sounds like an issue since you are either dependent on 3wd or really don't need the driver for the courses you play??? The courses you play, is it warranted for the top part of the bag or the bottom to score best? Could you dump the 3wd and 5wd for 4wd or turn either one of them into a 4wd with the sleeve. Either way, it doesn't matter unless you use it off the deck? If so, could you use either or and dump the other? Looks like the 4H is solid though and everything up to the 43* I assume has no gapping issues etc. With the gapping from 43*- I consider that a 1* weak 9i in my mind but it's you so.... again- either go see someone about the gapping issues, bounces, swing etc or continue to read my bull.... haha. It sounds like you'd like the 4* gaps would be better and I'm not counting the 43* as a wedge. How about 47*-51*-55*- 59* or 60* then. Have the grinds for each on how you play them from that yardage the most and done. I don't like to get cute with opening or playing delicate shots with the wedges, if I screw up and get in a precarious situation then do my best with a stock shot and take it on the scorecard. I'm not good enough or have the time to be auto from bad spots. So- the short answer- Dump one or the other of the FWs if you want to get the extra wedge Bend the 48* to 47*, Buy a wedge to fit the 51* slot Bend the 54* to 55* Either bend the 56* to 59*(dependent on bounce and if you could play it) or get something else. ALL IS DEPENDENT ON YOU.... David
  6. Heck yeah- keep adding so I can live vicariously thru you on your adventures... lol
  7. Happy Thanksgiving as well... this is definitely entertaining and always learn something... That BX reacting that way was definitely a surprise! Eat- Be Merry and put those numbers up over the weekend, shows how everyone's unique swings adds a different perspective on how balls react. I personally was only thinking of 3 balls- Pro V, Maxfli Tour and the AVX but may have to try a couple of different balls for the year. David
  8. Count me in on #1 if not already... I like the higher spins on 7 & W... the driver difference is nill. Too hard on the other numbers but pretty close IMHOP. I noticed in your signature being D7 forged irons- so your are a little stronger (normal nowadays), so you need all the spin you can get with a ball without detriment to your driver. Also the driver at 12*- you are getting good numbers for spin regardless...
  9. Did anyone say Ball #1 is the Chrome soft X? it looks like it would spin higher than everything else? You already said that Ball #2 is the BX.. Ball #3- Vice Pro or maybe Z Star? yeah I know, cheater but I like to think of it as hedging my bet... haha
  10. Just saw your location of WA.... yikes- not conducive of year round playing so understandable. AVG AOA nice though... I hover around -1 to 0 on a driver- irons are -2 to -4 - I am spin happy to say the least. Hard fairways are not my friend as I sway towards high bounce but enough about me. With greens with this type of spin, do they hold? I guess, trying to figure out how much spin do you need and your game? I will learn a lot of spin numbers from this topic, digging thru the ball test 2021 on here though. Interesting stuff and great to see the true numbers and especially the ball testing on overall quality.
  11. Well, hopefully you won the side pool money then? haha Love the desires of what you need the ball to do, sprinkle some fairy dust on all equipment and yourself- SAVE some for me as well! I'll play for the shipping on it to become better! LOL- I think a lot of us would pay good money for that!! I go by the old adage of whatever you hit, should be the same on spin.... 7i- close to 7k but somewhere around 6.5k-7k range is fine. I don't know if that applies nowadays with lofts being jacked so hard for most irons? Just got back into the game and research so I don't know if everything has been turned down a notch on spin rates or not. 6 yrs. ago, I played Ping Anser irons- bent .5* weak on 7(34*)-9 to make them 4* gaps and spun it around 7k. Since this is all in fun as well, then give it hell and we all will have fun with the numbers... By chance, are you playing with them on the course to get a real feel for them or already have played with all of these previously? Spin numbers off of mats are great and all but off grass should give you different numbers as well. David
  12. Loaded question honestly... I ASSume every other variable is the same though? You need to check the IE profiles of what you're trying to accomplish- torque is a matter of feel as well. Are you staying the same torque etc.? Your brain might react differently based on what your body "feels" and your pre-determinations of going to a "heavier" or "lighter" shaft. Are you going to a 65x from a 75s, lot of unknowns. Everything is dependent on what you need and what your swing brings to the table. Is going lighter going to bring a vast number of yards but at what cost? Will going lighter or heavier be conducive to your swing, strength etc. David
  13. I wish those SOBs would make it in lefty- like the more rounded toe instead of typical square-ish ones I've seen as of late. It's shaped like a mini FW is what I like, reminds me of a bigger F6 they made a few years ago but with the weights as well. Seems like weights are coming back into play to keep them from the hookers and cutters... David
  14. Instead of guessing, go and get an honest driver evaluation by a reputable fitter! Spend the $100 instead of $1k on guesses or ruining shafts by chopping them up. Or do like the rest of us junkies and chase! haha. Honestly though- I don't care the length of the driver, I CARE if I can find the sweet-spot more often with whatever length to be more consistent. SUCKS being a tee not knowing where the hell is it going; if only I can hit it ONE time in the screws to carry it however far to get over the hazard. David
  15. Different stokes- all dependent on what YOU need for the courses you play. Is it primarily a mini driver or do we actually need it for specific spots on the course, par 5 in two? I dumped mine as I don't need it for the courses I play and the yardages anymore. Is the 17* vs. the 13* I use to play more accurate? Yes and I don't need to throttle it outright on every hole since I don't play courses that don't need max. distance either. I play a tighter course with no advantage of being 25yds. + longer but SHO need them to be more accurate for my junky swing. David
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