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Posts posted by Justin66

  1. Think about your costs, too. Take how much money and time a fitting costs for just the 6i, and times that by 7-9 (depending on how many irons you buy). Sets of irons are already expensive... why incur even more costs when the majority of golfers wouldn't even notice a difference?


    When it comes to irons, it's usually a good idea to maintain a uniform pattern amongst the set.

  2. So, here's a link:



    For those not interested in clicking it, here's an excerpt:

    A Christian Dior mascara ad featuring actress Natalie Portman has been banned in England after rival makeup company L'Oreal complained that the magazine ad was misleading and exaggerated.


    L'Oreal complained to Britain's Advertising Standards Authority, the independent agency that regulates advertising across all media and that takes action against advertisements that are misleading, harmful or offensive.


    Now, we know how golf companies like to mislead and/or exaggerate with their advertising. I'm sure one company comes instantly to mind ;)


    Since I've never been there, I'm asking any and all that have been to or live in that neck of the woods this: how is golf advertisements done there? Do they follow this code of conduct? How different is it over there, if it is at all?

  3. We get this question a lot about our original S2S shaft designs, again because if the golfer has not heard of Wishon Golf, there is a natural tendency to be skeptical about the quality and performance. Any Clubmaker with a copy of the TWGT Shaft Bend Profile software can us the program to sort and analyze any shaft in the data base to find out what other shafts are very similar for all of the stiffness measurements and stiffness playing characteristics.


    But for those of you who do not yet own a copy of Wishon Golf's unique and very helpful Bend Profile Software, here is some information to show you what other shafts in the industry are very similar in overall stiffness and bend profile to a few of our popular S2S original graphite shaft designs.







    Here's the full report, if you're curious:


  4. And coming are they. It appears that settling up with James Patrick was more costly than anyone knew and he's trying to recoup it all back on the sale of iron sets.


    Price points:

    3-GW $3150

    3-PW $2800

    4-GW $2800

    4-PW $2450

    5-GW $2450

    5-PW $2100


    That's $350 per club for those doing the math.


    And they're not that impressive in looks. The bounce is jacked waaaaaay up on all of the irons (example 7 iron has 12* of bounce). I was always of the school of thought of ball first contact with the club contacting turf after the ball to create compression and launch. It seems Mr. Edel has developed the first ever set of Tour Striker irons, so watch out Martin Chuck. Evidently, creating that much bounce is expensive to do.


    Regardless, I'm sure they're a fine forged iron, but that price point won't sell well, IMO.



    I don't see them lasting through the season. They'll be on the clearace rack with a quickness.

  5. So, adjustable drivers are ALL the craze these days. What's holding these guys up? They both strike me as too "traditional" to make the move to adjustability. Cleveland made a bold move with the different weighted drivers, they can do it again with adjustability. Mizuno is the king of traditional... RPJ and Gaijin, do you see it happening?


    It's a "hot" feature, like white paint on a driver or putter, but not entirely necessary. Consider that between 70 and 80% of all golfers fight a slice... why would they need a face that opens? Closes more than normal, maybe (it's the most viable way to help a slice for drivers), but it takes about a 1.5* change to notice any appreciable difference.


    This is another one of those "Keep Up With The Joneses" bull$hit deals. Ping finally caved... I don't believe Cleveland or Mizuno would or should. But that's how they do things in golf; someone comes up with something, it catches on, everyone has to copy it or else fear getting left behind. It isn't just white paint, white grips or adjustable features- it's putting grips and stances, "negative ion" chotzkies, swing theories...

  6. Everyone is irritated by things others do on the golf course. There has to be something. So, what bothers you out on the course?


    For me, the things that bother me the most are when people throw cigars on the greens or fairways and it makes burn marks, and generally not taking care of the course, like not repairing ball marksd and divots, or not raking bunkers.


    And the big one, SLOW PLAY!


    I feel I'm pretty easy to get along with on the course, but I do have some pet peeves:


    1. fix pitch marks and divots. It isn't that hard. Besides, it helps you, me, the course superintendent and everyone else.

    2. Don't spit near the green... especially in the cup. It's absolutely disgusting and f*cking rude, to boot.

    2a. same as above, but switch out "spit" with "throw cigar/cigarette butts". I used to smoke; when I did, it wasn't too hard to hold on to the butt the extra 5 minutes until I got to the trash can at the next tee box.

    3. Club throwers- especially the ones that think they're thiiiiis close to being "tour ready" by breaking 80 at their local track, or hitting one out of 5 drives >280y that manages to stay in the fairway. I don't care how good you are- or think you are- it makes you look like a jacka$$, and your foursome has to suffer as well, thanks to guilt by association. Leave the whiny-a$$ attitude at home, or try tai-chi to help curb that crap.


    I have to +5 the "play the correct tees" thing. Like that old joke goes:

    GOLFER: Do you think I can get there with a 5 iron?

    CADDY: Eventually.

  7. My father-in-law's new* full set of Taylormade's (plus bag) aren't helping him out drive me.


    Nike and TMaG are probably using the same marketing firm to do their work. Or, they think we're ignorant enough not to notice.



    *they were new last year, so I guess he should be looking into the RBZ or R11S's to gain back the distance that he's obviously lost by playing an older (and obviously inferior) model. :lol:

  8. I stumbled upon this concept today while reading TWGT's blog. Has anyone tried this or known anyone who's done it? I'm not sure of the Golfsmith way is far too simplified or not, but it was an interesting solution.


    Twice. Two years ago I went with inches for length measurements while making the headweights 8g apart instead of 7. That can be a pain in the a$$. I swingweighted them last year, now this year I'm keeping the 7g increments and using centimeters as my length measurement. That I found out about near the end of last year, when I picked up Jeff Summitt's new book.


    Everyone is going to have their opinions on this. Maltby isn't that big of a fan, especially when he considers that swingweighting's worked for about 100 years. Some people are fanatics. I don't know where I stand anymore. I definitely felt like my short irons worked better for me with MOI matching two years ago (because it's still cold/snowy, I can't really get out and test the new build)... but there's so many "golf placebo's" out there that I could definitely see people putting MOI matching in that category. One upside is you can use any grip you want with MOI matching; the idea behind it is the grip is the focal point of the swing, so the grip doesn't factor into the reading. With swing weight matching you have to- or at least, it behooves you to- find grips that are relatively close in weight to your current model, to maintain the swing weight you were fit to. It's about consistency.


    Jeff Sheets suggests MOI matching each category of clubs on their own. Woods, irons, wedges... you get the idea. His thought is, since they're all different implements, they shouldn't be lumped together. He does have a point, in my eyes: if you MOI matched everything together, you could easily end up with a driver in the low C's (like C3) while the LW could be in the high E's. That could make the driver head too light, which means you can't tell where it's at in the swing, which means bad things for your driving. The LW would then be too heavy. Makes sense to me... it may or may not be good for you, but something to consider, at least.


    If anything, it could at least be a fun experiment. Or drive you crazy :P .

  9. Warranty was already touched on, but can you imagine the costs involved in all of this? Inventory and logistical nightmare for the companies. With all of the heads being all over the map with lofts, face angles, and weights and now categorizing all of it? Wow.


    I love this idea, but I don't think it will ever come to fruition. If you want the opportunities with equipment that come with being a tour player, the easiest way to get access to that is become one. Good luck! :P


    Also, if you don't have a consistent swing (good, consistent ball striker), then who cares how exact your equipment is built because you can't benefit from it.



    That's exactly it. Too much cost. Not to mention the leftover inventory incurs a tax at the end of the fiscal year... who wants to pay for over-ordering ATTAS's and Iomics?


    There's not one person that would benefit from knowing if their driver is 10.3* or 10.5. 9.5 or 10.5, not so much- especially if you believe the loft/launch angle effect TMaG gave Golf Spy T in the haircut article. Or if your face angle is .5* closed and not square. Or if your clubhead weighs 203g and not 200g (3g is normal tolerance). Or if the COR's .82 and not .83 (a whopping 2 yards difference!). You'd be making the experience a LOT more expensive than it'd need to be, which would likely only result in pissing you off for things that aren't truly relevant. I don't know about you, but that's not my cup of tea.

  10. The I-Mix from Callaway was one such model that failed. Personally, I think it was implemented wrong... why the h3ll have one head, a "normal" shaft and a "high-launch" shaft, when the average golfer should stick to one?


    There's the cost that's involved, as well. Retailers would have to stock a BUNCH of heads, shafts (at all, or almost all, pricepoints), grips, ferrules/adaptors and "disposable" clubmaking stock (tape, solvent, epoxy, swing weighting materials, etc.). That's an inventory and cost nightmare- especially those high-end shafts that might just sit there for the whole year.


    You may see pricing changes, as well. Let's say the average cost of the head is $200. The average cost of a shaft is $100; grips, $4. Right now you're over the current cost by $4- which could be worse since my head cost is just a number and I'm not going to even attempt to find the average cost for ALL shafts and grips- this is just an example, after all. T


    here's also the adaptor or ferrule that needs to be bought, the fitting, labor and "disposable inventory" (epoxy, tape, solvent, etc.) costs that need to be covered. Do you HAVE to have a $300 shaft, or is one that plays the same for $50 acceptable (though it isn't the "it" one someone at your club uses)? Is the retailer going to be honest with you, or try to strong-arm you into a "premium" shaft to help unload said high-cost inventory? Do you go with the $10 grip, or the $3 model? Which ones will "The Boss" let you have, or will you have to forsake your dignity for what you want? The higher-end stuff might not be available at the time of purchase (who would want to stock tons of that stuff, from a cost perspective? Those that want to go bankrupt)... are you willing to wait?


    There's too much going on for this to even be close to feasible- it is definitely NOT like a cellphone store. Not that it's a bad idea- far from it. Just right now, with the way golf costs are, it just isn't a sound business model.

  11. I had a good lump of the same skepticism when I saw it. But data is data and I know what happened when I tested it on the range. I truly believe that True Aim will be way more important in the marketplace this coming season than adding two settings to a sole plate or whatever.


    The parallel I template is on my driver.



    So... you spent $20 for a sticker that lined up perfectly with the chevron on top of the crown? LMAO!!


    If anyone is truly convinced this works, remind me why so many people want the belly/long putters banned.

  12. True, but there are so many guys out there working at a shop that's formal training includes watching the master clubbuilder at the shop that's had schooling. I don't even use tape and solvent anymore, I blow grips on. It's too easy to do that and plus you can save grips much easier (which is great for me as much as I change clubs).


    I still haven't gotten around to that, but I haven't got an air compressor... yet. Definitely on my "to do" list this year.

    • Like 1
  13. I'm willing to bet that 95% of persons building clubs out there that use normal masking tape have no idea about the thickness differences in it and build up tape. Someone tells them 3 extra wraps, thinking that they're oversizing them by 3/64th's and in actuality they're barely more than 1/64th. To me, that's unprofessional. It's poor practice to call oneself a professional when you're using something that's a different thickness than what you're really selling to customers. Call it a wrong opinion, but I call it poor practice to provide a service and have no clue about how it works. There are 3 local stores that offer club building, there's one employee at those three stores that has a clue about the thickness differences, and all 3 have both normal masking tape and build-up tape. They always use the normal masking tape and every time the sizing is wrong.


    Agreed. It's about the practice, not the materials. Someone that uses Naptha from Lowe's instead of "professional" grip solvent is still doing the same job because they are indeed the same thing (Brampton's eco-friendly solvent notwithstanding... that is different stuff). But since it says "GOLF" on it, the professional stuff costs more. But if someone doesn't use enough, so that the grip gets stuck halfway on and creates a clusterfk, that's where the difference would lie.


    Sounds like the people in question need to go back to the manuals they should've been studying from. They account for the thinner tape, since the books- especially the older manuals- predated the "professional" grip tape and accounted for it.

  14. Can anyone give me a ballpark cost estimate to bend a set of forged irons(2-PW) 2* flat? Do brand and age factor in? I have a mint set of 1972 Spalding Elite MV2 forged blades that I'd like bent and am curious of the cost.


    The GolfWorks charges $4.95 per club to adjust loft and lie, regardless of how many degrees you need, brand, or age. So figure roughly that when looking locally.

  15. There's also the parallel tip section to consider. Generally, you need at least 1.5" to keep the shaft from breaking easily- especially graphite shafts. The PTS is where the tip is "beefed up" to withstand the forces of impact. Lose this and you could see your clubhead flying down the fairway. Not only that, there isn't a guarantee that going past this point will allow the shaft to seat into the hosel fully, since the diameter of the shaft can be larger than .335 (or .350/.355/.370, depending on the model in question). You should never tip-trim a taper-tip model. Check out the GolfWorks, Hireko, or Golfsmith's websites- or contact the manufacturer directly- to find the PTS for your shafts before getting too involved in this.

  16. I have recently aquired a cobra putter, and i wanted a bit of custom look and feel. I was wondering if anyone had any knowlege of how to ghost a putter at home, ie... supplies needed and any suggestions as to how to complete the transformation.



    There's a couple articles on another golf forum that I'm banned from (it didn't "WRX" for me, if you catch my drift) that was similar. One I remember for sure was about ghosting a driver, but the principal may still apply. I know that "real" ghosting is done with a heat-treated polymer, but I can't find any other details about it other than don't put it on the face. Not much, I know, but hopefully a starting point.

  17. If it would have broke the head or messed up the paint on the crown, I'd have been upset, but since it was just a few nicks in the sole, there was nothing I could do but laugh.


    I was just telling my mother-in-law the story and as soon as I told her that I stayed up working so hard on it she said "the head flew off on your first shot, didn't it?". LOL



    Do we have the same mother-in-law? LOL!!!


    Looks awesome, and shows how much effort you put into and pride you take in your work.

  18. Fit for lie angle? Sure, indoors is fine. Fit for ball flight (far more important), outdoors is the way to go. Where do the world's best get fit and with what equipment? Outdoors on a FlightScope or Trackman.


    Bingo. The indoor monitors are nice for the colder-climate places because it allows them to do stuff year-round. But that's pretty much its only advantage.

  19. You know how else to do this? Get those shaft butt weight ports and some lead powder, fill it up to your desired weight and put whatever grip you want on. Doesn't come close to $19/grip, unless you go crazy with the brand of grip. But again, you at least get EXACTLY what grip you want.


    There's never been any proof that counterbalancing works across-the-board. It's just like the swing weight v. MOI matching debate: there's no proof either is "best", it's just swing weighting has been around a LOT longer. But if you choose one and it works for you, then that is your own "best".

  20. Wedge flex = stiff flex.


    Here's some quotes from Ralph Maltby, from The Complete Book of Golf Club Fitting & Performance (p. 512-513):


    "I have done a lot of testing with all the manufacturer's wedges over the years, most all of them with the stiff shafts, and they test and play just fine meaning playability does not seem in any way to be reduced. I am always far more concerned in the wedges about the sole design ('effective bounce' for the skill level of the golfer) and also getting the correct fitted lie angle".


    "The wedges are the least important clubs in the bag regarding shaft flex but if you are going to err, always err on the stiffer side. One reason... is the fact that all your wedges should have higher swingweights (read as head weight) than the irons in the set. The heavier head weights can actually make the shaft a little more flexible. So, for some players, usually the higher skill level players, the heavier wedge head may also give the feeling that the shaft is too flexible even though it is the same shaft and flex as in the irons".


    Last one, about those spinny wedge shafts:


    "I would not personally reshaft wedges with one of these special new 'wedge only' shafts. They work fine, but they don't do anything to help you score or play better in my opinion. They do seem to be more expensive however than a normal top grade steel shaft".


    Personally, I use Apollo Colored Stepless shafts (black for the GW, Red for the SW, ivory for the LW, a subtle hint for my 'Huskers), tipped an extra .5" than the S flex recommendation. Works just fine for me.

  21. It's poor practice to use anything else, IMO if one is to call oneself a professional.



    And the difference is? You get to charge people more- not to mention the ego boost- because "true" build-up tape is more expensive!


    Look at it this way: years back, the company I work for made the rear armrests for Silverado's, 1500's and a few other GM truck models. They went through a heating process (multiple "ovens") to eliminate wrinkles. Unfortunately, the developer of the oven had the temps wrong, and we ended up scorching the "front" side (the side opposite the cupholder, visible when the armrest is folded up into the seat) of the beige/natural/neutral armrests. It took a lot of trial and error, but we finally got the temps correct. Instead of throwing away all those armrests, we found spray paint (spray paint!!) that matched up exactly with that beige color- the execs at GM and our customers we shipped to couldn't tell the difference. With the dark grey color for the same part, we used putty to cover up any small gashes or gaps in the folds. Not "make this right" thinking, but "find a solution that works".


    For the headliners we make for Chrysler, simple hot glue holds the foam blocks onto the base of the liner. If you're curious, the blocks keep some separation between the liner and the roof of the car, so things fit without creating lips, bumps, etc. Could we use something "professional" like Hot Melt or some industrial-grade glue? Sure... but why?


    That line of thinking suggests the engineers and developers of these concepts aren't "professional", though they certainly have the schooling and experience to suggest otherwise. Normal masking tape is usually, but not always, .006" (it depends on the brand). "Professional" grip tape is .015" (1/64th"). There was a time when there wasn't "professional" grip tape... plain ol' masking tape was all there was. Does that make them unprofessional? Hardly... they still got the job done, just as the professionals in my shop did. Besides, once it's fully assmebled, could you honestly tell the difference? Not unless you were told.


    I wouldn't argue the ease of use of the "professional" grip tape, but to make such a blanket statement is just wrong in my opinion. You're certainly entitled to it, however.

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