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For those that don’t follow MGS social media you probably missed that they are doing a lab type test to evaluate the ChipR. I participated yesterday and found the product intriguing but with some limitations. The head is much heavier than I previously thought which I think helps avoid the chunky shot. I think with some practice it would be great for bump and run and chip shots were you have lots of ground to utilize. Basically the ball is going to roll out as you don’t create a lot of spin. When you need to elevate the ball or want it to stop quickly the club may be a disappointment. With the upright lie angle, thickish sole, and lower loft opening the face doesn’t produce reliable results. I think for a player that struggles with fat and thin shots around the green this could be a game changer. For players that want to do different types of shots around the green you will be disappointed and think it is a waste of a spot in the bag.

Thinking about my wedges that are on a UPS truck somewhere in my city. Don’t know why I am so eager to get them, won’t be able to hit balls today.

Here is a response from Tony: Do brand-new balls from let’s say 3-4 years ago lose performance with the years passing or should we expect the same results from back when they were made? A: It’s better than it used to be. With balata, the liquid cores evaporate so the balls shrink and get lighter. The modern solid-core ball will typically get firmer over time but will eventually level off. Ten compression points over three years isn’t out of the question. Any time you change a layer (for example, the core gets firmer), you invariably change the relationship between layers so spin properties may change a bit as well. And this article seems in line with the general consensus I have seen: https://honestgolfers.com/do-golf-balls-go-bad/

if you are mad at a 26 putt day either you miss every green or you are a tour level putter. Based on that don’t change your putter. Believe it or not all putting paths arc to some degree unless you manipulate something to prevent the arc. Face balance. Is achieved by having the shaft intersect the head near the center. You can see this on your putter by stretching a string down the shaft and see where it intersects the head. If you make a putter more upright in lie angle you may be able to add some toe hang. You could also tip trim the shaft to move the intersection point toward the heel of the putter.

I read the letter from the tour…increase money, higher tier events for top name players, guarantee to get in other events….almost like all of this is about money. If the players are right about it being about winning majors and the traditions of the PGA tour, they should t need to increase money, the players should just come because they are the best “employer” and have the best product, and provide the measuring stake for how players want to be judged. Guess it really all comes back to money even on the PGA Tour.

Quintic doesn’t need anything, but it is primarily measuring the ball with some putter data. It it is camera based. You can also use launch monitors like trackman and GCQuad since they have putting measurements using the dots like on full swing. puttlab, capto and other putting specific devices attach so the can measure all the fine movements through the stroke. Not ideal but it is what is available. the 48 gram sensors obviously adds to total weight but they are generally put on the balance point to attempt to minimize impact to stroke. Probably better for more mechanical leaning players as Sam showed how someone that is feel based reacts to the sensor. I’ve used a couple of the sensor based systems; including Puttlab when the sensor had wires running to the main unit, and it didn’t bother me and my stroke tendencies were reflective on f what I actually did during the stroke.

I think stoner was a bit stoned when he came up with this post.

Carry deviation is the standard deviation associated with carry. Most if your shits are going right of the target line by about 15 yards. club speed is 105 with 148 ball speed. That gives you a smash factor of 1.41 which means you aren’t getting all you can out of your current speed. launch angle is obviously the angle the ball launches. For a 105 swing you should probably be in the 12-14 range. club face and path help explain direction and curve. You are 1.5 degrees open to the target line which means your ball starts right. Ball started in the direction the face points. The path is out to in and combined with an open face you will hit a fade or slice. 3700 backspin is a bit high, it should probably be in the 2000-2400 range. Too little backspin and the ball doesn’t fly well and too much will cause it to fly higher, balloon, and lose distancE. Side spin has an influence on backspin which you see from the additional spin numbers. face to path is similar to face to target but mapped to the path the club is on instead of the target line. attack angle. The is the direction the club is moving at impact. For driver you want a positive number (1-5 range) and for other clubs a negative (the shorter the club the more negative you should have). Your number means you are hitting down on the ball a lot. This impacts spin and launch angle.

you will get increased speed because the Lag shot helps with your sequencing making you more efficient and thus swinging faster. It is different than speed training which is equipment/protocols designed specifically to help you swing the club faster. I can't comment on whether the clubhead speed is right or not, but all the other numbers bring it into question. Maybe the extreme flexibility generates the high speeds or maybe it is a missread. Even with speed training, the speeds increase is based on the driver and not the training aids. Here is one of your screenshots: The data is shows is: Total distance - pretty obvious, this is how far the ball travelled including rollout. Depending on how you setup some launch monitors you can influence this by how soft or firm you make the landing area. Carry Distance - this is probably one of the more important numbers. This is how far the ball travels through the air. left/right deviation - this is how far left of right the ball landed in relation to the centerline Shot height - this is how high the ball went. swing speed will influence how high you should hit the ball. Based on those numbers you are very low; guesstimate is that you should be about 85-90 feet. The loft you deliver to the ball is what generates the launch angle. Launch angle, ball speed, and spin influence height. club speed - This is how fast the club head is moving. As we have discussed, this just doesn't seem right. If could be that it is moving that fast becuase of the flexible shaft but I really doubt it translates to an actual club. Swing an actual club and see what the swing speed is. ball speed - This is how fast the ball comes off the face. smash factor - This is ball speed divided by club speed. For driver the smash factor should be around 1.5, for irons 1.37ish, and for wedges 1.1ish. If your numbers aren't in this range then you aren't hitting the center of the face or you are not delivering the clubhead in an ideal manner. If you look at these relationships having fast swing speed is great, but if you don't do other things well you still get no distance so swinging fast becomes meaningless. Again, swing your actual driver when collecting data with the R10; I think the lag shot data shows little to nothing relevant.

Make it all or nothing. The top 30 gets you into the final event and only 1 person wins anything and that is the winner of the Tour Championship. Everyone else goes home empty handed.

Lag shot is designed to help improve tempo and rhythm in the swing. If you are swinging correctly you should be able to make decent contact with the ball. It should translate to hitting your normal clubs better which is what should give you the “if I do this well enough” stat. In my opinion you should be measuring you actual clubs with the R10 to see if your speed is up, contact is solid, ball flight is good, and getting good ball speed. Based on your responses, I am guessing you don’t understand what those data points in your screenshots indicate? I look at those numbers and see lots of inconsistencies and based on the sort someone that just wants to improve swing speed.

He is 150+club speed and 233 ball speed; two different things. You show 164 club speed so showing lag shot numbers is really meaningless and not representative of actual ball striking. Your ball speed shows you also aren’t hitting it solid. you are showing a lot of data with the lag shot training aids and I am not sure what you are trying to show or trying to accomplish.

All they need now are iron and hybrid shafts and you can have their shafts through the bag. Guess they are tying to be like LA golf.

As I go through the various most wanted testing each year; one of the things I notice is that all clubs look basically the same. A little bigger here or there with some cosmetic differences but basically the same club. There are also differences internally that we can’t see like how they are weighted.

He’s ahead of Kyle Berkshire if he really is getting 164.

all this shows me is that I wouldn’t trust swing speed with the lag shot clubs being measured on the R10. Sorry, but I really doubt this reflects actual swing speeds you are achieving. I am guessing that you aren’t using a real ball? Are you using the lag shot for normal play? What distances are you getting with that swing speed? If not using them for actual play, what does the R10 measure for driver?

Toe hang is influenced by where the shaft intersects the head. If you stretch a string from the grip end and follow the shaft and extend that string through the putter and it intersects the head in the center it will most likely be face balanced. The closer to the heel the more toe hang it would have. This is a generalization as there are exceptions. With the hosel you linked, if the string still intersects the putter through the center it would be face balanced. The biggest issue will be ensuring that the part of the hosel that attaches to the head match. I don't know what the Mizuno uses as a connection type.

I have my H4 on my belt so it is always with me. When I walk up to my ball I tap the putter and mark the location. When I am reaching into the hole to get the ball I take it off the belt and tap the number of putts to capture pin location. I find the putting to be easier than remembering to tag other shots.

Didn’t sound like a jerk just someone that doesn’t know how to use the tool to fit a putter and taught a specific method on how to putt.

He is still touring. Was in my area a couple of weeks ago and will be touring for most of the remainder of the year,

Saw him live in 2004; definitely entertaining.

How many Circle T's did you buy?

If you are hitting the center more frequently that is a good thing and should ultimately help with distance control versus hitting all over the face. Some people struggle more with a grip change and some just make a natural progression. I switched back to LHL a few weeks ago and it felt really good and not much change from a standard grip; probably because even with a standard grip I am left side dominant and a little more mechanical in nature. Just head to the practice green a few times and work on building the new feels.

Wow, putting did kill you!