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Everything posted by JMiller

  1. I can't say that they are the best out of everything out there, because I haven't tried "everything". I'm sure Callaway, TMaG, Cleveland, Scratch, Score make decent to good products but I haven't hit one or haven't hit one in a long time. To me Titleist was middle of the line, I have tried worse and tried better IMHO. I liked the feel of the Adams MB2 but it has way to much offset for a blade (has more offset then most Players CB irons). It is sort of my opinion that a person that can deal with a blade also doesn't need a ton of offset really they probably need less most of the time. Out of what I have tried I think the following sort of stood out to me as being a little better then most: Miura, Fourteen, Mizuno, W/S FG62, Vega I most say I hit Fourteen over this past weekend with a DG s300 in it, a little soft of a flex but when flushed they felt freaking amazing, i was really impressed with that product so it got added to my list here since the last time I reviewed blades.
  2. The MB sort of reminds me of Mizuno T4 wedges with the slot cut down the middle interesting to say the least.
  3. These are just some comments in general nothing against you personally: ~ A pretty divot does not mean a pretty shot, a lot of times my divots are toe heavy and I hit a high draw. The ball is off the face before the club enters the ground, a divot doesn't really matter at all. Steve Stricker is a sweeper and is very successful ~ Distance will not directly lead to better scores. Take Zack Johnson for example he is a super short hitter for PGA Tour standards and yet a Masters winner, how'd he get it done? laying up on every par 5 and hitting great wedges into greens, accuracy trumped distance. In short the point I was making in my posts was simple, do not make a swing change for the wrong reasons. Some quotes that I have to agree with form my instructor Bruce Rearck (http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/): 'Never make a major change in your swing out of frustration. Getting better takes patience. Always fine tune, never overhaul.' 'The search for a "best way" does not guarantee success. Consistency of effort, consistency of technique is what works best.' 'Long term success in golf means having enough confidence in your method to not change everything when things get tough.' 'Lack of patience ruins more rounds than lack of talent. Play to your strengths, avoid your weaknesses-your scores will be lower.' 'Good shots are a matter of knowing the process to make the shot. Without a process the swing is random. You can't judge random.' 'Set up to an aimed clubface! Don't aim the clubface from your setup! Maybe the most common mistake any player might make.'
  4. Anyways, everyone hits what I like to call "The Wall". This is just a point where they can't seem to score any better but they don't seem to have very ballooned high rounds either. They are a "solid" x handicap without much variance. You find this more in the lower handicaps then the higher ones I think. From 2009 to 2011 I really spent a lot of time screwing up my game, like I said i went from a1-4 to a 8-12. I thought I had swing issues and looking back at it really it probably wasn't 100% swing issues, some of it yes but a lot of the problem was mental. After 1 year of completely tweaking and grinding out my swing to make it better because i built in so many bad habits that were a result of a false cause of hitting the wall, i realized to check the following stuff before anything else: ~ Are my clubs fit to my game do they have the right specifications? ~ Are my fundamentals like grip, posture, alignment, etc okay? ~ Are my course management skills and club selection / game plan skills okay? ~ Are my mental management and decision making abilities okay? I think for me I can pinpoint almost all of my bad holes to course management / mental decision making anymore, I tend to check the specs on my equipment each Fall. I always work on my process and alignment all the time, my posture just to keep from getting lazy and having it lead to swing issues. Majority of the time I can say that my bad holes are mental errors in either course management or laziness not being focused enough on my targets. You will get there, just stick to what changes you are trying to make espesually when the going get really rough.
  5. I was in this position right after college maybe a little lower scores then you but same principle. I went from a solid 1-4 handicap in college to a 8-12 handicap by 2011, going from 76 and better rounds to barely breaking 90 sucks, it's frustrating as hell that is for sure. It wasn't until 2012 that I started working with my current instructor (Bruce Rearick, Burnt Edges Consulting) on putting then eventually full swing that I started to improve again. We have been working for a year now and I'm just now starting to feel conferable in my tweaks / changes. I got golfer's elbow last season so medically and physically I had to make a change for longevity. They were all tweaks they were never really a complete re-build. However the tweaks did lead from me being one-plane (Ben Hogan) swing to a hybrid plane (Greg Norman) swing, two completely different swing models but the intention was not to change models originally. You don't have to have a lot of distance to be successful in golf, there is always a forward tee the might make it more enjoyable for you. There are also players like Zack Johnson that play huge courses and are shorter hitters but their accuracy is off the charts. They make up for a lack of distance with their accuracy and course management. If you can't get there lay up to a good wedge yardage and stick it close. You can sheer the sheep many ways and get it done without worrying about distance all the time. Steve Stricker is not that big of a hitter and is a sweeper that man has a hell of a wedge game and a putter. I can find other examples of guys on tour that get it done that are not named Bubba Watson I have never gone into a lesson or series of lessons wanting to change my entire swing. I have only gone to them trying to perfect and fine tune my swing. I have had major changes happen as a result of tweaking something but it was never my intentions I just went with what was feeling natural to me and then tweaked it to improve it. Tiger Woods takes over a year to even START to feel good about a major swing revamp, this is a man that puts in more work towards golf then I have time to and I think most people would have the time and dedication to do. Butch Harmon makes a comment along the lines of just how much work has to be put in to actually achieve a full wing revamp here >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PplQjd6ZP88 Ask yourself and talk with your instructor about your end goals, what do you want to achieve from your game and in golf. Do you want to play in national level tournaments one day or do you just want to shave a few strokes and enjoy a weekend round a bit more. I think the planning and the way to approach improvement is different depending on the long term goals. Regardless of if you are completely overhauling the swing or tweaking it, it will take a lot of time and effort to get it right to the point you can trust it and do it sub-consciously
  6. To answer that question on short no, my home club would not buy a scoreboard sign like this. The reasons being the following IMHO: 1) It is Duke University G.C. A public golf course connected to the University and a nice hotel, they probably want to keep it as clean and nice looking as possible. 2) They flat out don't have the space for a stand alone scoreboard. When they hold tournaments they use a long wall between the 19th hole and the driving range ball dispenser to tape up sheets of paper and use that as their "scoreboard". 3) There are a lot of things that need fixed on the golf course itself, this summer they are re-grassing the greens with Champions Bermuda over Bent grass. They need to completely re-do the irrigation system as I'm pretty sure the thing is super old and most of the lines are original to the course when it was built back just after WW2. Is the idea a good one, sure I think it is. Would a business advertise on it if they were a local place and the price was right for exposure, I would imagine so.
  7. It's been awhile since I have written a review but someone recently convened me to give a different shaft a try a shaft I would call a "value shaft". This is not a full out full review just a mini review of something I gave a try. The AXE XCaliber Tour 7+ TS, maybe you have heard of this line of shaft before maybe you haven't, MGS Matt wrote a review on the Tour 6+ awhile back that can be found in the blog here >> http://www.mygolfspy.com/arthur-xtreme-engineering-xcaliber-shaft-review/ I on the other hand tested the 7 series shaft where Matt tested the 6 series shaft, I'm a 70g Driver shaft kind of guy, have been for years but I haven't found a 75g type shaft that really has matched the feel and performance of the original white board i played in college. For the low price of $54.99 I figured the shaft was worth a gamble based on talking to MGS Matt and talking to another builder in my area that had a little experience in the shafts and recommended it in the first place. You can find this shaft here in the case you are interested in it >> http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_AS0024 SHAFT SPECS The shaft has a length of 47" raw, 76g raw and 2.7 torque. >> I had some interesting things happen with the build and performance of the shaft. As you tip the shaft the swing weight gets lighter instead of heavier. You would think that tipping would move the balance point more towards the head, in this case it seemed to move it more towards the butt, I just found that a little strange. >> I started with 4g of lead tape on the head at D4 un-tipped at 44.50", When it got tipped 1/4" and extended 1/4" The swing weight reduced to D2 with 4g of lead tape on the head. LOOKS / APPEAL I actually like the looks of the shaft. I personally think the all black with the dark dray and silver graphics is slick. I think you all know me by now that looks doesn't mean it will stay in my bag, I'm not a parking lot pro. FEEL I was REALLY impressed with the over all feel of the shaft. The shaft to me felt pretty smooth, I enjoyed the feel in the load of the transition and into the release. It was different then a lot of other 70g shafts I have tried in that it had a little character to it and not just a board feel. The Transition and load was great, smooth but stable, it didn't feel like I was swinging a rope or anything like that. PERFORMANCE As I noted in the specs I found one major problem in the shaft for me, the head flipped over into impact when trying to hit a cut and would hit mostly draws or hooks on me. With tipping actually reducing swing weight I realized that I was going to have to add more weight to the head putting more strain on the shaft at the tip causing the head to keep flipping as much or worse. If you are not a heavy swing weight guy like myself and can hit something in the D2 range then this shaft actually performed really well at that swing weight. My issue at a D2 driver is that my timing and control of the shot is a hair off. I don't look for more distance in my driver I am okay with losing 3-5 yards off the tee to hit more fairways personally. My Thoughts I think the shaft is a great shaft for the price of $55 plus shipping, unfortunately for me it just didn't work for my swing with the tip characteristics and design that it has, i just needed to heavy of a swing weight for the shaft to perform properly, it over loaded the tip. If you are looking for a smooth shaft that won't break the bank and you don't mind a lighter swing weight, I would suggest that you give this shaft a try. Hell if it doesn't work the price is so cheap that it's not going to make you upset in the first place. I is not a bad shaft at all, it just happened not to work for me at the swing weight that I wanted to play it at. The thing seemed to work fine at the D2 swing weight when I tried it there, less load on the tip via weight. I just couldn't time it at D2 to play it with the control that I wanted.
  8. I just think it's all about potential ability and pace of play. The higher the handicap the more likely you are to shot your max score on a given hole. As a low single digit it is sort of rare for me to shot anything worse then double bogey unless if have some penalty strokes involved. Then it becomes, is the course busy or is it dead? If it's dead I play it out, if not I pick it up. If you think about it the handicap number is a number based on someones projected potential. It's the lowest 10 differentials out of the most recent 20 rounds averaged then times by 0.96 to weight it a little bit. The entire thing is set up where most of the time you are going to be shooting gross scores of more then your handicap suggests. Anything within +/- 3 strokes of the course handicap is acceptable if it's a legitimate handicap. If the course is dead then I use a double par plus 1 stroke max in my rounds. I don't think I have ever had to record the max and be in my pocket with that rule of thumb. Par 3 max = 7, par 4 max = 9, par 5 max = 11 you would have to make a HUGE mess of a hole to record something higher then that. I would have to say it would take multiple penalty strokes on a single hole to get close. One example of where you might get close to a double par+1 max is say TPC Sawgrass 17th, you put your first 2 in the water playing your 5th shot onto the green then you 3 putt for a 7. A gross score of say 78 where you have 6 bogey's is a lot different potential then a 78 where 2 holes were triple bogey and the rest of them were pars. You can see the person that only had 2 blow up holes has the potential of playing at least 2 strokes better then they did without really blinking an eye. The person that scored all bogeys might not be any better potentially then the 6 bogeys so no adjustment needs made. I'm like you however, there comes a point where your handicap is low enough to simply play off scratch and record what you get only looking at gross scores instead of net scores.
  9. Anytime, I have had or attempted to have this conversation with anyone it seems like there is ALWAYS some sort of emotional response. I only have found a handfull of people that have given me some logic behind their stance on it that was not just emotional in either direction. I think there needs to be some time to educate ourselves and the general golfing public on this rule. It is not an equipment rule, it is a playing rule. All that means is the USGA / R&A could care less what length the putter is you can have the "longstick", what they care about is HOW the putter is used. If you want a 70" putter go for it just don't anchor it to the body to create a pivot point. That's what the rule really boils down to the ACT of anchoring and creating a pivot point for the end of the club to swing on. I personally have been bothered by anchoring for as long as I can remember and been big into equipment / golf instruction. I'm not an instructor just a hobby that I am passionate about like everyone else. Have I ever said anything to anyone about the anchored putter, NOPE. Have I given tips to people on the course that use the anchored putter, YES. Will I say anything to anyone after Jan 1, 2016... Only if it is in a tournament or in a cash game defining the agreed terms for the cash game before hand. I'm not going to be an ******* to the weekend golfer I play one round of golf with randomly there is no point. I see it is if you want to anchor post Jan 1, 2016 then that is fine as long as it's not a cash game or tournament play. In both cash games and tournament play there is a little more on the line. Hell in your cash game maybe your group of 4 or whatever agrees to make a "local rule" that they are permitted. I have heard of crazy "local rules" that are so local to be only to the group that is playing by the rule. It's not that uncommon of a practice I don't think to make it more enjoyable for those people. From a club fitting stand point. I think that everyone can be fit for a non-anchored putting stroke. Rule 14-1b would not limit the players posture or length of putter, this means you can keep the exact same posture you currently have even the same length of putter and just free swing the thing. I talked about this before when the proposal first was released. I posted awhile back a thread in the instruction section for an offer from Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting, putting guru) on instruction targeted at converting from an anchored stroke to non-anchored stroke. Here is that post from his blog >> http://www.bargolfinstruction.blogspot.com/2013/02/important-information-for-users-of.html You don't have to toss out the "longstick" how you use it is only thing that got banned in the first place. I'll post this for the the heck of it but I'm sure everyone has seen it to this point.
  10. Taper tip (0.355 tip) come in variable lengths and tip sections and are labeled by the iron number that they should be placed into. They are not recommended to be tipped, you can tip them 1/4" and still get them in the hosel just fine but it's more recommended to soft and hard step them rather then tip trim them for in-between flexes. I think you probably have heard of soft and hard stepping before on this website at some point. Hard step would be taking say a 8iron shaft and sticking it into a 7iron (1x hard step) or 6iron (2x hard step). Soft step would be taking a 6i shaft and placing it into a 7iron (1x soft step) or 8iron (2x soft stepped) When we talk about using an 8iron shaft in a wedge that's basically a 2x soft step. A parallel tip (0.370) shaft does come in the same length for all shafts, this is designed to be tip trimmed to get specific flex out of the shaft. For example the KBS Tour Parallel tips come in 3 weights and range in flexes. The X-Stiff is 135g 43.5" and can be tip trimmed from 6.0 to 7.5 literally anything in-between. They get tip trimmed for flex then butt trimmed for playing length. A taper tip after butt trimming on a 3iron versus a Wedge should be roughly the same weight, because in a parallel shaft more shaft gets cut off in a Wedge then it does in a 3iron the long iron shafts weight heavier at the end result. Parallel does have more fitting options for exact flex and really the weight issues can be overcome with various weighting techniques, the most common is simple swing weight. I knew you were never going to hit a flop shot with a 50* wedge. I went back and re-read it I'm not sure that I said i would hit a flop shot with a 56* or 52* personally. I talked about pitching, bunkers, 1/4 swings, 1/2 swings, 3/4 swings, Full Swings. I do use the 52* with the face slightly open and 1/4 to 3/4 swings for pitching, bunkers and really low spinning type shots at times depending on the distance and spin control. Awhile back i posted something on bunker play, if the lip is low enough and you have enough green to work with on a long bunker shot then maybe you hit 8iron out of the bunker with a slight open face. There really are no hard rules in golf what works, it was what you feel confident in pulling off. I feel that my 52* is more like a wedge then an iron personally because i do use it for a wide variety of shots excluding the flop shot. I don't even use my 56* for a flop shot either. The grind and bounce combination on those wedges don't allow me to open the club and easily get the leading edge under the ball unless it's in sand or sitting up in the rough. A soft lie I use the 56* / 52* a lot more then I use the 60* a tight lie / firm lie I use 60* more often. I gave an example before on how I might use my 3 wedges, I'll re-type that in a different format to provide the example again. I have a 60yard shot you have 3 options 1) hit 60* 1/2 swing high with a lot of spin flying it 55 to 60 yards and stopping it about where it lands. 2) hit 56* 1/4 swing medium with less pin flying it say 45-50 yards and letting it release to the hole a little. 3) hit 52* 1/4 swing choked down 3" low with very little spin landing it 35-45 yards and letting it roll out to the hole. So it all depends on what I feel that I have the best chance with to get the ball close for what shot / club I pick. I personally use my GW for more touch shots then full swings the PW gets used mostly for 3/4 to full swings and more like an iron. that's where my bag splits between shafts. PW is a KBS C-Taper XS tipped 1/4" to play like a 10iron and the GW uses a KBS Tour Wedge XS to give me a little more feel and tip kick. It is whatever you want to do with it and feel conferable doing, you are a low single digit I would assume that you have a good short game maybe it's better to match the GW shaft with the other wedges so that it gives you more options and creativity around the greens?
  11. Tuna hit on a really good point, how exactly do you use your wedges the most often? For me a bump and run really won't matter what shaft I have in there, that's mostly about weight of the club in my hands to feel the stroke / strike. A little pitch shot that carries less then 20 yards really won't have much difference either, I haven't noticed anymore or less spin on one shaft over another on these style of shots. It's mostly technique / clean grooves / premium ball / good green conditions. With the new grooves, I don't get a ton of spin of the clubs from things that carry within 20 yards, If I need one to stop faster I do it with trajectory rather then spin. Hit that Phil flop and get some speed on it at that point. Then you might care what the shaft feels like, but I think we would want to avoid situations that a flop shot is your only option I find that my preference comes from 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full shots on shafts. Once that I can get some speed into impact and actually see how the ball reacts to different shafts on the same green conditions. Say I have a 60 yard shot, i can use 60*, 56*, 52* and carry it 60 yards, what it does after it lands becomes more of my concern, if it is 60 yards and I can fly it 50yards and run it 10yards 52* is the pick. 56* would be something in the middle like 55yards, 5yard release, 60* would be me trying to land it and stop it right at 60yards. The other thing I kind of take into consideration is feel between my wedges and my irons. I try to stick to the same company to get the same weight / feel off the shafts. If I play DG in the irons I plat DG in the wedges, KBS in the irons KBS in the wedges. I haven't played Nippon, I played PX in both irons and wedges on the old grooves. That is more of a feel thing then anything else, I might give up a little spin but my tempo is better when not jumping around between bend profiles. In the new grooves I have only played DG x100s (9, W) shafts in Some Nike heads, they didn't spin enough at all. I bought my Mizuno MP T-11s and had KBS Tour Wedge XS put in them, I'll tell you what It took me some time to get used to the KBS shaft the lower section kicks it's a weird feeling compared to the DG I was playing. I get a lot more spin with my new set up and love it. I don't know if that ramble helps any or not, to summarize if you partial swing the GW a ton go with the KBS Tour, if you full swing it more go for the Steel Fiber shaft. Note: If the shafts are taper tip do not put a 4 or 5 iron shaft into a wedge. If they are parallel, build one to be at an 8i tip cut and another to a 9i tip cut spec and see which one you like better in the GW. If you go that road.
  12. I have already tried to help you with your swing once in the lessons section of the forum. My instructor even tossed in a little advice (Bruce Rearick, bargolf) for you to help you. What I was attempting to do in giving advice for your swing model is to get you more inside to down the line, there is no way you can hit a draw coming outside to inside unless it is a pull draw / hook. We don't want a two way miss that's ugly. What I was giving you advice for was to hit a natural draw with a two-plane swing, but it really sort of came off to me that you really didn't want to accept my advice and when I pointed you in a different direction you refused that as well. You can't be scared to take advice, if you are taking a lesson you have to trust the person doing the teaching and listen to what they have to say. If it doesn't work you give them nice feedback that you can't feel what they are trying to have you do and they think on a way to re-word it of get a FEEL for you to do the motions correctly. It is sort of pointless to pay someone or ask for advice if all you plan to do is tell the instructor how much you know or think you know about what they are telling you. Financially and progression that is just not logical. You are wasting your time and the instructors time in doing that. If you ask for advice be prepared to listen and think some advice sucks but has good intentions, other advice is great but doesn't work for you and you have to find / feel something different that does work. Again, for your swing being two-plane you HAVE to let the hands drop down first BEFORE the hips / shoulders start to rotate. The transition HAS to feel very slow and the hand have to feel like they are around waste high before the body starts to rotate. Regardless of swing plane you have basic concepts: DRAW >> Arms have to lead the body into impact FADE >> The hips / shoulders lead the arms into impact Review the above and re-read what we talked about in your swing video thread on the other section of the forum.
  13. I sort of find it interesting that they say average swing speed is 100-110mph... I am almost positive that the average male golfer is more in the 90s in swing speed then the 100s... Cool little gif otherwise, has some interesting stuff in it.
  14. Sounds like something that I have said before here on this forum about putting. Nice find Moecat, good to see not everyone and their brother is buying into "true roll" / "over-spin" putter marking bulls***.
  15. Really the list should be listed as 4, I was being more specific in distances for "approaches". Long approach is a little different then a short approach in my eyes (numbers 3 and 4). I almost always have mid to long irons into Par 3s and some longer par 4s. I almost always have mid to long irons on Par3s and long Par 4s my target size is bigger then if I have short iron / wedge in my hand. As long as you keep the ball in play off the tee, then your iron can bail you out, if you screw that up, your wedges can bail you out, if you screw that up maybe the putter can still save the par. There is nothing that can bail you out from poor putting. So if you want to make that list more simple 1) Putting 2) Short game / wedges 3) Approaches / irons 4) Tee shots Gary Player had a comment that sort of fits here... You get any 16 handicap, You have Tiger Woods hit the first two shots on Par4s and Par5s then have the 16 take over from there, the 16 handicap would be a 10. You take the same 16 handicap and have them hit the first two shots on par 4s and Par 5s then have Tiger Woods take over the 16 handicap would be a 3 .
  16. I am going to the Wells Fargo on Saturday. I am excited for this the weather is supposed to finally turn around in NC tomorrow. We shall see if the weather people are correct or not I put a ton of time into my putting, I focus mostly on my tempo, keeping that same tempo / timing with different length strokes. some 2:1 ratio of some kind. Tour Tempo is nice for this because they have a few different 2:1 ratios you can play around with and see which one is closest to you. Besides tempo I work with a drill my instructor calls "the coin drill". All you do is put a dime 18" in front of the ball and the focus is to roll teh ball over the center of the coin with different length strokes and the same tempo. This is to practice getting the ball on the line you pick only. I think a lot of people say distance is the most important, which it is very important as it determines line. However, when you are first starting to groove your stroke consistency the best way to do it is focus on direction and then READ the distance results from the different length strokes. I use the coin drill in 4 direction on new courses to get my speed, uphill, downhill, left right, right left. Focus on the line with different length strokes and see where the ball goes keeping the same tempo. So for example 4" back results in 4', 6" back results in 7', etc I find that it allows me to adjust for green speed a lot faster now then before I used the drill. Sorry for rambling, the main two things are tempo and direction that I work on and then get the speed / distance as an after thought. I honestly do "the coin drill" in my house all the time on wood floors, I'm not looking for speed I am looking at my tempo and length of stroke with pure contact rolling over the coin. I do this indoor practice 5 to 15 minutes a day and on the course I do it 30 min before my rounds. I just do it as much as I can as often as I can even if that's only 5min that day. For me I find that if I work on something 5 to 15min a day the repetitiveness builds my confidence up faster then doing it once a week for an say 1hour. I find small bursts of pure focused practice on a consistent basis more effective then long sessions of infrequent practice. That goes beyond putting, over the winter when I was switching my swing from one-plane to Hybrid plane thanks to golfer's elbow in my right arm. I sat there 30min a day making left arm only swings to strengthen my left arm and naturally in a full swing I wanted to lift the arm a little to get leverage under the club. Before I ever made a swing this spring I was very close to having my full swing figured out well at least the backswing positions. I only needed one different feel that I found after a couple weeks of coming back and I was golden. Now it's more about sequencing the downswing and tempo / transition. Sorry for the ramble again but I am just making the point that as busy as your life gets you can always do a little work in the house or office in your down time as long as the family and bosses don't look at you strangely If I were to rank the "things that make a difference" they would be as following: 1) Putting 2) Chipping, Pitching, Bunkers 3) Wedges / Short Irons 4) Mid / long Irons 5) Tee shots I think that's sort of obvious, but a lot of times people don't think about it that way. a 1' putt counts as many times as a 300 yard drive isn't golf great. I think most people would drop their handicaps by a ton if they spent more time in the first 3 items on the list. Well, I sort of look at it this way. He is an AM it's not like the fans are lining his pockets with millions of dollars yet. Plus he is 14 years old in a country that is completely different from his home country. It does take some time to adjust to little differences in society and given English is a 2nd language maybe sometimes he feels that people might have a really hard time understanding him or him understanding you in the slang involved in our language. So it might come off like the boy is stuck up but in reality it could be a number of other reasons that he comes off as not being friendly. I don't know what is going on through his head, but really he went from a random 14year old boy to a golfing sensation / world wide known name pretty much over night by making the cut at the Masters. That is a lot of fame for anyone to handle.
  17. No problem, I give credit when credit is due I know from our conversations that you can putt, chip, pitch, bunkers, wedges. I got a great tip from my instructor the other day about tournament golf that applies to making swing changes. Take an inventory of your shots that you know you can pull off. When the round really matters only play the shots in that innovatory and don't try something unfamiliar. You can screw around with mechanics on the range and in practice rounds where score means nothing, when score means a lot just play what you know works. No its all good, I just wanted to add a little more to what you already have. I know you got 65 to 68 in the bag now you just have to go do it.
  18. Well, you had to expect me to comment This is not to say MBP isn't doing great things or that I want to change what you are doing, whatever works fine. Interesting, I guess that could explain why you were telling me you were getting over aggressive to pins on approach shots. Great job on this one MBP. Everyone should have a putting routine like they do with every other shot. Putts count as much as a 300 yard drive I have worked with Burnt Edges Consulting for over a year now with access to Bruce's Puttlab research on putting. I know from doing things that were "popular" or thought to be "more efficient" ways of putting they only just ended up giving me conflicts in my natural stroke. When I started working with Bruce the first thing we did was find my posture that I best could see the putting line without a putter in my hand. This dictates the putters lie angle and length just by allowing your arms to hang down naturally. We just turned the putter into a ruler basically to help get in the same posture every time I addressed the ball. Fit the putter to the player not the player to the putter. That's sort of how I feel personally. If anything that I have learned from Bruce is that each individual will have slightly different perceptions and thus should have different postures. You have to work the putter around the players natural tendencies. I only think to my self is a posture change needed based on the perception of the line to the player? That is really the only reason I would ever tell anyone to change their putting posture is if they see the line better in a different position. Putter weight can help slow down or speed up a players stroke. I know for sure it does mine, because I just got an optimal weight finally. Heavier will in general be slower, lighter faster. You might try to add some weight to the head with those 2g tungsten square swing weights, lead tape, etc just to be able to know how much you added. You can always remove the weight if you feel like it's too heavy for you and you block or steer the putter. Very nice, good to hear that you are putting better, as many of my comments as I make I can't argue with results. Lets hope that this is a long term solution that you can stick to and when you start missing a few putts that should go in have enough convection not to change it. Great job overall MBP, good to see JB posting better scores.
  19. Well, let me start by saying that I don't know what your flights were and what there posted rounds happen to be on there course for course / slope ratings. If you go bottom dollar on course / slope you get 67.5/113 an 85 on that results in a 17.5 differential. if you are flighted in a way that includes a 23.5 with an 18 then they are really not sand bagging so to speak, it is actually legit. I have done this before but if you keep the score the same and change only the course / slope ratings for different tee boxes on the same course you get different differentials. I think that's sort of straight forward but people over look it a lot. You do get sandbaggers in any handicap related event, that is really why the organization running the event needs to have stipulations on what scores become "unrealistic" and how to handle that situation on the fly. A ton of tournaments are flat neglected or don't give a crap about the fairness of the event. They are run by golfers like you and I that don't run tournaments on a day to day basis and sure as heck not rules officials. To help avoid sandbagging in any tournament, I look for something in the policies of the organization hosting the event and rules to see what they have in there about net prizes or handicap flights. If they don't have something in place likely hood is they don't care / do anything about it. If they have something that sounds like it wouldn't work in a single event it's geared more to over the long term of multiple events then really they won't do anything on events of unrealistic single scores. I have had it happen to me where the organization only had rules stipulated to long term and a 3 handicap on a 74.0/140 tee box shot a gross score of a 68. We were playing scratch / gross scores within our division. I found it sketchy that someone can come out in a major tournament on a difficult course and beat the CH by 8 shots on just the gross score. The odds of that happening are very much a long shot. The director of the tournament did nothing even after I posted showed the same chart to him all I got was "I am aware of the chart and don't feel that the score is unrealistic". I understand that great rounds happen, I'll accept someone shooting up to 4 strokes better then their handicap as a single digit, however I will not accept someone shooting 8 strokes better then their handicap and nothing really being done about it. I had also found out on their website at the time you could request to be paired with friends but the committee was always going to grant that request. I decided after those two things that the origination running that AM Tour was a joke and my first event with them was my last event with them. If you are curious here is a chart of shooting an exceptional tournament round: http://www.usga.org/playing/handicaps/understanding_handicap/articles/deanstable.html I have to say from the Rules / Procedures I have read on the Carolinas Golf Association (CGA), where I haven't played in one of them yet they sound like they have a good approach to this situation for their one-day tournaments: http://www.carolinasgolf.org/images/carolinasgolf/site/rules/oneday.pdf The keys being the following statements: The CGA monitors handicap score posting and reserves the right to adjust course handicaps and/or withhold prizes for competitors whose handicaps are considered unrealistic or who have participated in a disproportionate share of CGA prize distributions. NET KNOCKOUT RULE - A player is disqualified from net prizes if his net score beats the course rating by eight or more strokes and beats the next best net score in their division by four or more strokes. If you really want to compete on a fair legitimate level, it is my opinion that the organization running the tournament HAS to deal with both single round and long term situations and adjust the handicaps as needed or withhold prizes from anyone they feel has sandbagged. As for 4-man best ball, I refuse to even play in those events. They are mostly nothing but fund raisers and a big drinking event. Really my impressions of every 4-man best ball I have played in except for one has been "he who cheats the most wins". As for 2-man best ball, the CGA also has rules target for that, where they take a given percentage of the handicaps, etc: http://www.carolinasgolf.org/images/carolinasgolf/site/rules/oneday4ball.pdf
  20. Interesting story, I hope that no one was injured.
  21. That's no problem, let me go into some more technical details and design of the head that makes me think the way I do about the topic. Also, I did test hit them with the KBS Tour X-Stiff in them if I remember correctly, it has been so long now that some of it is fuzzy. I got my offset numbers from Adams Golf when the club first came out, they provided the numbers in MM, I converted them to inches using some free online tools as I was being lazy to do it manually. I got the other offsets directly from the manufactures website and where not available I search the internet attempting to find the offset specifications. One of the major things that I was looking for in a blade was a lower amount of offset as I feel it gives me better workability of the club and would have a very small amount of face angle change in the 0.1* range between the lowest amount of offset and the highest amount of offset. Now lets say on all three clubs my path stayed exactly the same at -1.5* inside to outside on the LM (all clubs I tested were LM 6irons), Now lets say that the MB2 came in at 0.1* open to the target, The MP-69 came in at 0.5* open to the target, The FG62 came in at 0.5* open to the target even with the weaker shaft. I think it is safe to say that each one of these situations will result in a different starting line and a different amount of curve even if the spin rates are the same, they are likely to have different spin rates as well. So if you think about a hypothetical situation with the same shaft: MB2: Path = -1.5*, Face Angle @ impact = 0.0* (straight to left) FG62 Path = -1.5*, Face Angle @ impact = 0.4* (slight right to left) MP69: Path = -1.5*, Face Angle ~ impact = 0.8* (slightly more right to slightly less left) I left the path identical and just changed the face angle of the club, The shaft is the same on all three heads and build wise all three are perfect in weight, lie, loft, etc they match exactly. We are just looking now at offset only and it's possible effect on the face angle at impact. I think we can agree that where the face is pointed is where the ball starts, we have been through this already on this website and I can provide a few other resources that also have that research. The ball curves based on the path of the club, so combining the face angle and path you get your start and curve amount. This sounds stupid but at a high level you feel like you want to have 110% control over your face and on your best days you want to think you can control the shot by even 1 yard of curve. It really happens but you hear the best players in the world say when they are on their A+ game they can even get 0.5yard in distance and hit it to that spot within a 0.5yard. I went ahead and listed the highest and lowest offset specs in the group of progressive offset blades I tested. And the difference between the two in inches. Adams Idea Pro MB2 (given in mm I converted it to inches) 3 21 60.5 0.180" 39.00" 0.7 4 24 61.0 0.168" 38.50" 1.7 5 27 61.5 0.156" 38.00" 2.5 6 30 62.0 0.144" 37.50" 3.4 7 34 62.5 0.132" 37.00" 4.2 8 38 63.0 0.120" 36.50" 5.2 9 42 63.5 0.108" 36.00" 6.0 P 46 64.0 0.096" 35.50" 6.5 Wilson Staff FG62 3 21 59.5 0.095" 39.25" 4.5 4 24 60.0 0.092" 38.75" 5.0 5 27 61.0 0.089" 38.25" 5.5 6 31 61.5 0.086" 37.75" 6.0 7 35 62.0 0.083" 37.25" 6.5 8 39 63.0 0.080" 36.75" 7.0 9 43 63.5 0.077" 36.25" 7.5 P 47 64.0 0.074" 35.75" 8.0 Difference using MB2 minus FG62 3 0* 1.0* 0.088" 39.00" 0.7 4 0* 1.0* 0.079" 38.50" 1.7 5 0* 0.5* 0.070" 38.00" 2.5 6 -1* 0.5* 0.061" 37.50" 3.4 7 -1* 0.5* 0.049" 37.00" 4.2 8 -1* 0.0* 0.040" 36.50" 5.2 9 -1* 0.0* 0.031" 36.00" 6.0 P -1* 0.0* 0.022" 35.50" 6.5 Now is 0.088" down to 0.022", this doesn't sound like a lot but it could be the difference between a 0.5* open face and a 0.1* open face for example. For a really good player and a higher swing speed / higher spin player 0.1* can actually make a difference but they will notice the change for sure in what they expect to happen and what really happens at 0.5* or larger face angle changes with the same path roughly. Will ever player notice this, hell no, I completely agree with you there. However, the target audience for a blade is normally 6 or better handicaps that have repeatable very good ball striking, these types of players tend to notice little things that they don't like or like. So can you say that they are "ball park" between the MB2 to other blades NO. IF you look at other offsets of blades, Players CBs, GI, SGI irons you will notice that the offset is smallest on blades normally then goes up slightly into SGI irons. When a blade is matching an offset of a GI iron it's not "ball park" to it's competitors other then the looks and concept of a blade in terms of dynamic close of the face at impact. As for forgiveness the MB2 has weights across the bottom of the iron from toe to heel, these are designed 1 to get the ball more up in the air but also designed to give a tough of perimeter weighting in the club. They compare more like a Mizuno MP-60 where it played more like a blade with a hair more forgiveness around the face. The MP69 tried to do something close to this with getting the CG lower in the irons then the MP-68 but it still has slightly less forgiveness IMHO then the Adams MB2. Were are only talking about 10-30% in terms of forgiveness around the sweet spot in any blade that's not a lot I would compare the Adams MB2 more like a Players CB like a MP-60 then a blade but that's just my opinion. Van someone adjust to the clubs easily yes they can if you got a good enough game to be consistent in your swing you can adjust to anything over time.
  22. Absolutely, an early or late wrist set is a matter of preference. That is also my understanding and what I have been told from multiple sources that know a lot more about a golf swing then I do. Check posture at address, if you slouch this could also cause you to come inside. I hope you are not one of those people that feels they need to create a horizontal swing-plane and hanks the club inside as a result. Verbalize your golf swing in a sequence of motion (completely stole this from Bruce Rearick), you should be able to describe your swing pretty well in 3 short sentences. For example mine would be something like this for a RH golfer in a one-plane swing 1) left arm across the chest with shoulders passive 2) right hip clears 3) shoulders carry the arms to the top I'm not sure that would help but I like to tell people to write down what they felt immediately after they make a really good swing. Carry a notepad and paper with you to the driving range. Write it down and memorize it. This will be your guide to fixing yourself when things go wrong, you just have to FEEL what your wrote in terms of a sequence of motion. It is best to start with the backswing only then learn to time the weight transfer and downswing sequence for different shot shapes. I will provide this much in terms of shot shaping. ~ Arms lead the swing in a draw / hook ~ Body leads the swing in a fade / slice.
  23. He double and triple posts all of the time, that post ***** Congratulations Richard on 5k.
  24. The offsets can highly effect how much the face gets closed at impact by a little, obviously it doesn't sound like a lot but even a 1mm is a big difference in ball flight IMHO. You are looking at a blade that has about the same amount of offset as a lot of Game Improvement irons, personally I would hook the absolute s*** out of one regardless of shaft. I have found in my personal experience that the PX line FEELs VERY HARSH, about a 1/2 flex stiffer then it really plays. The KBS Line is the exact opposite they FEEL like they are a 1/2 flex softer then they really are. So a PX 6.5 FEELs like a 7.0 and at Tour X FEELs more like a 6.5, not to mention that the KBS C-Taper is more comparable to the PX line up then the Tour line is. Just the design of the C-Taper is more a low to mid / low spin shaft, the PX is low to mid launch low spin shaft as well. The KBS Tour is more a mid launch mid spin shaft. You distance increase on the MB2 could be coming from a combination of 2* stronger and a shaft that launches the ball at the same height as your old irons would with weaker lofts. I wrote a big MB review about a year ago and it has specifications and my thoughts on a lot of different blades when I was searching and testing to find a set. The original is here >> http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/5458-muscleback-iron-review/ Here are the specs that I have listed in comparison to my AP2s I used to play back then... CLUB LOFT LIE OFFSET LENGTH BOUNCE Consistent Offset Models Adams Idea Pro MB (1.5mm converted to inches) 3 21 60.5 0.059" 39.00" IDK 4 24 61.0 0.059" 38.50" IDK 5 27 61.5 0.059" 38.00" IDK 6 31 62.0 0.059" 37.50" IDK 7 35 62.5 0.059" 37.00" IDK 8 39 63.0 0.059" 36.50" IDK 9 43 63.5 0.059" 36.00" IDK P 47 64.0 0.059" 35.50" IDK Progressive Offset Models Wilson Staff FG62 3 21 59.5 0.095" 39.25" 4.5 4 24 60.0 0.092" 38.75" 5.0 5 27 61.0 0.089" 38.25" 5.5 6 31 61.5 0.086" 37.75" 6.0 7 35 62.0 0.083" 37.25" 6.5 8 39 63.0 0.080" 36.75" 7.0 9 43 63.5 0.077" 36.25" 7.5 P 47 64.0 0.074" 35.75" 8.0 Mizuno MP-69 3 21 59.5 0.110" 38.75" 2.0 4 24 60.0 0.110" 38.25" 2.0 5 27 60.5 0.110" 37.75" 2.0 6 30 61.0 0.110" 37.25" 3.0 7 34 61.5 0.110" 36.75" 3.0 8 38 62.0 0.102" 36.25" 4.0 9 42 62.5 0.102" 35.75" 5.0 P 46 63.0 0.094" 35.30" 6.0 Mizuno MP-68 3 21 59.5 0.110" 38.75" 2.0 4 24 60.0 0.110" 38.25" 2.0 5 27 60.5 0.110" 37.75" 2.0 6 31 61.0 0.110" 37.25" 3.0 7 35 61.5 0.110" 36.75" 3.0 8 39 62.0 0.102" 36.25" 4.0 9 43 62.5 0.102" 35.75" 5.0 P 47 63.0 0.094" 35.30" 6.0 Mizuno MP-67 3 22 59.5 0.110" 38.75" 3.0 4 25 60.0 0.110" 38.25" 3.0 5 28 60.5 0.110" 37.75" 4.0 6 32 61.0 0.110" 37.25" 4.0 7 36 61.5 0.110" 36.75" 4.0 8 40 62.0 0.110" 36.25" 5.0 9 44 62.5 0.100" 35.75" 6.0 P 48 63.0 0.100" 35.50" 7.0 Nike VR Pro Blade 3 21 59.0 0.115" 39.00" 2.0 4 24 60.0 0.100" 38.50" 3.0 5 27 61.0 0.090" 38.00" 4.0 6 31 62.0 0.085" 37.50" 5.0 7 35 62.5 0.080" 37.00" 6.0 8 39 63.0 0.070" 36.50" 7.0 9 43 63.5 0.060" 36.00" 8.0 P 47 64.0 0.060" 35.75" 9.0 Titleist Muscle Back (MB) 3 21 60.0 0.125" 39.00" 2.0 4 24 61.0 0.120" 38.50" 3.0 5 27 62.0 0.115" 38.00" 4.0 6 31 62.5 0.110" 37.50" 4.5 7 35 63.0 0.100" 37.00" 5.0 8 39 63.5 0.090" 36.50" 6.0 9 43 64.0 0.080" 36.00" 7.0 P 47 64.0 0.075" 35.75" 8.0 Adams Idea Pro MB2 (given in mm I converted it to inches) 3 21 60.5 0.180" 39.00" 0.7 4 24 61.0 0.168" 38.50" 1.7 5 27 61.5 0.156" 38.00" 2.5 6 30 62.0 0.144" 37.50" 3.4 7 34 62.5 0.132" 37.00" 4.2 8 38 63.0 0.120" 36.50" 5.2 9 42 63.5 0.108" 36.00" 6.0 P 46 64.0 0.096" 35.50" 6.5 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Titleist AP2 (2008) --> http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/2008ap2.asp 3 21 60.0 0.160" 39.00" 0.0 4 24 61.0 0.145" 38.50" 1.0 5 27 62.0 0.130" 38.00" 3.0 6 31 62.5 0.120" 37.50" 4.0 7 35 63.0 0.110" 37.00" 5.0 8 39 63.5 0.100" 36.50" 6.0 9 43 64.0 0.090" 36.00" 7.0 P 47 64.0 0.085" 35.75" 8.0 This is 100% my personal opinion, I think the 3* gap between the 5i and 6i is a poor idea, but it also goes to show that OEMs feel that a 6iron is not a scoring club to most players the 7iron and down is. For me I think that my 3i, 4i are "long irons" but because no one even carries a 3iron hardly anymore the 4i, 5i have become "long irons" So they just shifted the 3* gap down one club from between the 5i to 6i into the 6i to the 7i because so many people are just wanting 4-P now. Plus it will give the small appeal that you are 2 to 4 yards longer on each club, depends on swing speed for 1* distance change. I haven't bought a set that is not at a 47* PW in a long time honestly and if I did I would be having everything bent 1* weak personally because that's not the specs I want to play in my 6i to PW. I don't need the extra 3 yards I need the control and confidence in how far my clubs are going for what I am used to. One thing you can do if you have access to a good one is take all the irons to a LM and hit 10 shots with each one and write down average distance for each club. Once you memorize that distance then it becomes more confident "I know I hit this club X distance". It really doesn't matter how for they go as long as they are consistent in how far they go and you KNOW how far they go without a target in mind. You can't really get a target in mind until you already have a confident committed distance in your mind first. If you are like me because I play an X as well, I hit a 6i at 31* about 198 yards carry. I know that my gaps for a 1* change is roughly 3 or 4yards. So I am going to guess that with a 2* increase on the short irons you are 6 to 8 yards longer. It is something that you can get used to over time IF you just take the perception of your old clubs out of play and just focus on what the results are for the new ones. Like I said you have to know a "stock swing" distance on each club happens to be, regardless of the equipment if you are not committed to the shot then it is going to turn out ugly, I think you sort of know that already from your posts I'm just saying it again. You COULD bent them 2* weak to a 22,25,28,32,36,40,44,48 set if your wanted this is likely to match your 10 year old irons perfectly. However then you get into the wedges and I am not sure what lofts you carry in those but you would be looking at a 52*, 56*, 60* to keep the 4* gaps or a 54* / 60* for 6* gaps. They really haven't updated the wedge gaps at all for the increased loft of irons. Mostly because people still play a 47* or 48* PW... I know I do either 43*, 47*, 52*, 56*, 60* or 43*, 48*, 54*, 60*. Just sort of gets me my confident / familiar gaps in wedges / short irons. IF you do happen to bend the clubs 2* weak you will increase the bounce by roughly 2*, this will change turf interaction a little. with more bounce you might also have to move ball position back a hair to be able to forward press slightly more to bring the leading edge down a little more so that you don't catch one a hair thin at times. It's all retaliative, The Adams MB2s are on the opposite side of the spectrum in terms of specifications in a lot of things compared to more ofter blades. They are more forgiving I think then every other blade, they have more offset then every other blades and pretty much every Players CB on the market, they are really designed more for a player that is not used to playing blades and is interested in trying a blade design out IMHO. They might have been more a step backwards for you, Maybe I should ask what made you want to buy the Adams MB2 over a different blade?
  25. If you tell me where your arm is positioned compared to your shoulders at the top of the backswing looking in a mirror then I might be able to help out a little more=. Here is sort of the general template for the three swing planes, all of which are sequenced differently. This image belongs to Burnt Edges Consulting. If you are the center or right stick figure then the hips have to laterally slide at the start of the downswing to allow the hands to drop. If the hips rotate first without the hands dropping that's when you get "stuck". That situation is normally something I would see i a lot of better players, they know the importance of the lower body starting the downswing, they just end up over cooking it a lot of times. To relate the drawings to tour players: Left Drawing ~ Arnold Palmer, Matt Kuchar, Hunter Mahan, Justin Rose, Tiger Woods (currently) Middle Drawing ~ Adam Scott, Greg Norman, Charl Schwartzel, Luke Donald, Tiger Woods (Butch Harmon days) Right Drawing ~ Jack Nicklaus, Tom Watson, Fred Couples, Dustin Johnson, Tiger Woods (Before Butch) There could be other things going on in the swing without seeing it or knowing what model you fit into, I am trying to keep what I am saying very general.
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