cycleguy55

I'm able to fit grip in swingweight scale and shaft holds it in place without tape. Just have to be careful to position shaft to account for top cap of grip.

No doubt. I'll be watching for that when I swing weight it. The replacement shaft is a UST Proforce V2 Tour Flight Regular, while the original shaft is a RocketFuel original Stiff shaft. I'm getting older and swing speed has dropped a bit, so I'm trying a (theoretically) softer shaft as well as get a more boring ball flight as I typically hit a high spinny ball that balloons and doesn't play well in the windy conditions. I bought the V2 TF shaft a few years ago and now going to try one out in both the RBZ Stage 2 (9.5 deg) and an R11S (9 deg).

That was my plan. If I go too light I can always hot melt the head later, but that's Plan B, as I'd rather not do that unless I need to.

Based upon that, and assuming the balance points of the two shafts are identical, I get the following: extra 19 grams will increase swingweight just slightly more than 2 points (e.g. D3 => D5+) Shortening the 69g shaft by 1/3" would reduce SW by 2 points, so 3/8" should reduce the additional SW by about 2.25 SW points. I have a SW scale, so just looking for a starting point. I can load everything up and cut increments until I get to the desired SW. I note one review indicated the stock RBZ Stage 2 had a SW of D6, but I don't recall it being that high. I generally play around D4, so will need to weigh everything before I get started. If it is D6, then I'll probably end up shortening the shaft a bit more - which I'm okay with.

I'm planning to build another shaft for my RBZ Stage 2 driver. The current shaft is 50g and the shaft I'm planning to put in a new tip is 69 grams. How much shorter will the 69 gram shaft need to be to maintain the same swing weight?

That's what I was going to recommend. Glad to see others are of a like mind. Well, at least one... LOL Here's a video from the UK which plays and reviews the Callaway Edge boxed set. Definitely worth 20 minutes of your time if you're thinking of buying these. You're stuck indoors, so what else are you going to do instead of staring at the walls? Enjoy.

I stand corrected: Apex Pro irons are 'Players' clubs, while Na's Rogue Pro 4 iron is listed as a 'Players Distance' club.

I don't know how many caught this, but Kevin Na has come out in favour of GI irons. Yes, not that many look to Na as a source of wisdom for golf advice, but he is on the Tour and has one there, so that certainly puts him well above me. LOL. I was never going to play blades, but perhaps I can now feel better (less inadequate?) about playing GI or SGI irons. During a recent chat on GOLF’s Fully Equipped podcast, Callaway staffer Kevin Na admitted blade irons aren’t his cup of tea. You read that right: a four-time PGA Tour winner is openly championing for forgiving cavity-back irons. “I can’t play a blade,” Na said. “It’s too difficult, and I’m a pro golfer. I think a blade goes shorter. Off-center hits aren’t going to perform as well as cavity-backs. I don’t see a reason why you’d want to play a blade. I really don’t. I played blades in my early 20s, maybe one year — when I was dumb. But I’m wiser now and play a cavity-back.” Na’s iron of choice is Callaway’s Apex Pro 16, but with the goal of embracing the perfect blend of workability and forgiveness that most better-player irons possess, he opted for a slightly larger Rogue Pro 4-iron at the top of the set. “In the longer irons, I even look for more — I don’t want to say a high-handicapper club — a more forgiving club,” Na said. https://www.golf.com/gear/irons/2020/04/11/kevin-na-callaway-apex-cavity-back-iron-fully-equipped/

That will certainly work. I see somebody has listed some GolfWorks products on both Amazon.ca and Amazon.com - but there's something seriously wrong with their prices. Amazon.ca has a 2-tube 50 ml epoxy syringe for $115 CAD - but at least it has free shipping. LOL

I only recommended that as OP indicated he was going to HD. My preference would always be shafting epoxy which, of course, isn't that hard to track down. I get most of my supplies from https://www.golfworks.ca/ or, in USA, https://www.golfworks.com/

Butane torches are generally listed as producing maximum temperatures of about 2400 deg F, while propane are listed at 3600 deg F. Big difference, as you've discovered.

The key to getting a good bond is making sure both shaft and hosel are clean. Super clean. You can't get too clean. I use a wire brush (like a rifle bore brush) in a drill to mechanically remove material and roughen the surface of the hosel. Sandpaper shaft to do the same - but that looks like graphite so be careful about getting aggressive if you're sanding perpendicular to graphite fibers. You can get more aggressive with steel shafts and need to in order to get epoxy to properly bond. I don't know how you're going to clean the epoxy from the ferrule. Perhaps you can pick away enough with a fine sharp tool (awl?) to prevent interference when re-installing the shaft. I generally remove the ferrule and install a new one - but you may not have the tools to do that. Then clean both shaft and hosel with solvent or paint thinner, followed by a wipe with acetone. I use Q-Tips in hosel. Don't use quick set or 5 minute epoxy. Use regular epoxy, perhaps something like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Two-1-oz-Twin-Tube-Cold-Weld-8265-s/100189012 mixed according to directions. You won't need a lot. Mix it throughly on a piece of paper or cardboard, then roll the shaft in the epoxy to get a thin layer. I usually insert the shaft, twisting as I insert it, then remove, wipe some of the epoxy back down on the shaft, then insert again. Rotate to get desired alignment of grip with head. Wipe excess epoxy off with a cloth. You may need solvent or paint thinner to get it clean. You can use acetone, but it will melt most ferrules so be cautious if you use that. Set the club aside in a vertical position to allow the epoxy to set. Check it after a few minutes to make sure things haven't shifted but, other than that, don't touch it for 24 hours.

Things may be slow to open this year, but there are some good tracks: North: Waskesiu: Classic Stanley Thompson design in Prince Albert National Park, been around forever, well maintained. Built over rolling terrain with elevation changes. A few 'blind' shots. http://www.waskesiugolf.com/ Elk Ridge: Just outside PA National Park. 27 holes. Great courses carved out of the forest. Plan on elevation changes, wildlife. https://www.golfelkridge.com/ Evergreen Golf: Nipawin, SK. Consistently rated among top courses in Sask. Les Furber design. http://www.evergreengolfcourse.ca/ Green Hills: inside Greenwater Lake Provincial Park. Nice track with elevation changes, wildlife. Not just a 'big stick' course - you'll need to pay attention to distances and club selection, even off the tee. Plays in an out of forest in early holes. Generally not very busy. https://www.greenhillsgolfresort.com/ Central / South Dakota Dunes: South of Saskatoon. Excellent course. One of the newest courses in province (2004). Graham Cooke, Cooke-Carleton design. Links-style golf. Wide open and can get windy. http://www.dakotadunes.ca/ Moon Lake: Just outside Saskatoon. 27 holes. Very good. Links / dunes style. https://moonlakegolf.com/ Willows: Saskatoon. 27 holes with 3 distinct 9s. Very good - especially if you want to avoid much elevation change. https://willowsgolf.com/Home.aspx Legends: Warman, SK. Very new (2011). Very open and subject to wind. https://www.golfthelegends.com/ Deer Valley: Close to Regina, so busier and pricier - though still very affordable. Very good course. Some quite challenging holes. Had problems with ground shifting / slumping on a few holes, but generally well marked and easy to play around. https://deervalleygolf.ca/ White Bear Lake: Near Moose Mountain Provincial Park and Carlyle, SK. Cut out of the forest. Very nice course and often pretty quiet / easy to get a booking. http://www.whitebeargolf.com/ https://www.top100golfcourses.com/golf-courses/north-america/canada/saskatchewan https://scoregolf.com/golf-course-guide/saskatchewan-golf-courses https://www.tourismsaskatchewan.com/things-to-do/golf#sort=relevancy https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_golf_courses_in_Saskatchewan

Banff Springs is good. Older design course with some updates. Well maintained. Great scenery. Keep your eyes open for wildlife. When I played there they had shortened one of the holes because there was a coyote den (IIRC) on one of the fairways and they were giving it some distance from golfers. Given the elevation it's often a bit cool, so be prepared for that.

My set is 52/56/60, but the gap from my 45 deg PW to 52 deg AW is more than those gaps, so a better set for me is probably 50/55/60.

I seem to recall reading about this test. Do you have a link to it?

My current irons are from Giga Golf. The Verve irons are like Pings and they play well. I'd buy from Giga Golf again.

I play 52, 56 and 60 deg wedges, with the 56 being the SW. I find the 60 great to have when my game is 'on', but nothing but trouble if I'm even the slightest but 'off' or 'rusty'. It's also got enough bounce that it's nothing but trouble on any kind of hardpan, so it's best left in the bag around that stuff. I don't recall the last time I used it in a trap, but it's handy to have around the greens when it's working.

I had a set of 845s for a couple of years. Liked the look, but thought I needed something a bit more GI so sold them. Have thought a few times about tracking down another set. Or maybe a newer set of Pings...

I WANT mine to rust. There are times it's too dry and they don't rust enough!

That's what I do. If conditions are too dry for them to rust I'll take steps to make them rust faster.

They'd have to be pretty special for me to replace the rusty wedges in my bag.

I may have to check that out. My C130 may be due for a replacement, and I could get one in school or team colours.

I have a Sun Mountain C130 cart bag (not sure what year - probably about 2012) and it has a nice dedicated sleeve for the putter, but the non-tapered bottom of the SS Fatso grip on my putters was catching on the top rim whenever I needed to pull the putter out. I fixed it by getting a length of PVC tubing for built-in vacuum systems (2" diameter, IIRC), cutting that to length and inserting it into the putter sleeve. Problem solved. Putter now slides easily in an out - even with that fat grip. Love the C130, but I made the mistake of grabbing it and lifting it one time by the sleeve the cart strap passes through. That caused a small tear. I haven't bothered to get it fixed, just remember to use the grips Sun Mountain put on the bag to lift it. Duh.

Currently use both a rangefinder and GPS - laser rangefinder with slope and Garmin Approach S20 GPS Golf Watch.