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Posts posted by Addicted2Golf

  1. I use all 3 grips, but use the overlap on most full shots, occasionally I will interlock to "anti-left" a shot or to get a higher trajectory. I chip almost always with a 10 finger grip because it gives me the most accuracy in delivering the clubface to the ball, and hit flop shots and sand shots with an interlock grip.


    I switched from a 10 finger grip 4 years ago to the overlap, I did it 4 days before our club championship and won our handicap division. The change just wasn't very drastic feeling or uncomfortable to me, which is when I started tinkering with the interlock and it feels fine to, I can hit good shots with each grip so use them all at various times, sometimes just because one feels a bit better than the other on a particular day, or for a particular shot.


    It's funny you mention that. I played in my league on Wednesday and ended up having to abandon the Vardon grip on my chips - just didn't feel right and I hit a couple of poor chips early in the round. I did use it on full shots and didn't hook a single ball. I did slice one into the opposite fairway when the grip broke down on me. Still a work in progress. Shot a 44 with two doubles on the card. So, all in all, not a bad night considering I'm tweaking some things right now.

  2. Thanks for the reply. That last bullet on the benefits of the interlock is interesting (promoting a fade). It makes sense because it does restrict the release of the club.


    However, I found almost the opposite to be true. I rarely ever hit a cut and most of the time I'll fight a low hook versus a controllable draw. One of the reasons for switching to the Vardon is I read Ben Hogan went with the Vardon to guard against a hook and many PGA players use it for the same reason. Now, I'm not saying my swing is anything close to being PGA material but like many of us I'll leverage something that works for the professional if it suits my game.


    Anyway, my hypothesis is that I was compensating the restricted release of the interlock with an overly strong grip (that got progressively stronger over the years) and more hand action through impact, which led to inconsistency if my timing wasn't perfect. I backed off the strong grip a bit and as soon as I switched to the Vardon, my draw/hook turned into a cut and I gained distance - especially with the irons. If I experiment around with gradually strengthening my grip again, I'd bet you money that I can get back to a draw.

  3. I've used the interlock grip my entire golfing life, but lately I feel like it's been restricting my ability to properly release the club and as a result I'm not seeing the distance I'd expect. I also feel like I'm more prone to put a "death grip" on at times and my grip tension is much less with the overlap.


    Has anyone else experienced this? I feel like I'm a little nuts for switching now after all these years but my first couple of range sessions with the new grip have been encouraging - other than the fact that the grip feels very, very unnatural. B) I've gained about 10 yards per club and my occasional duck hook has disappeared.

  4. I think Cobra is trying a bit too hard... especially with the orange paint fill in the numbers and the aiming line on the face. In my opinion, the following colors should NEVER be used on any part of a golf club that's visible at address:



    Neon Green

    Highlighter Yellow

    Baby Blue


    White (with the exception of the aiming line. Yes, TMAG, I'm talking to you)

  5. Well, I know this isn't going to help you, but I have "situational anxiety", so I pop a couple Xanax about an hour before my teetime and take another at the turn. It's pretty smooth sailing that way. Nothing I tried before that ever worked.


    Don't they test for performance enhancing drugs in golf? LOL.

  6. BTW, according to Golf Digest, no Bi-Matrix shaft option like Bubba's:


    The driver is the same technologically as the regular G20 but boasts a pink club head (that comes with a matching pink head cover) and a bright pink shaft. The shaft is a high-balance-point Ping TFC 169D labeled, "Bubba Long in Pink. Driven by PING. Special Edition 2012." The pink G20 will be available in regular, stiff and ladies flexes and in lofts of 9.5, 10.5 and 12 degrees. A 10.5-degree model is available for lefties and a 12-degree version in women's. The MSRP on the club is $430. (The actual pink shaft on Watson's driver is a Grafalloy BiMatrx, and his loft is 8.5 degrees.)


  7. Another consideration, if you look at what OEMs are doing to tweak the sweet spot (think Cobra's "E9" Technology)...they're designing for more forgiveness in an eliptical pattern...low heel, center, high toe. Low toe where I've been hitting is usually accounted for in a fitting. A little knee flex seems to have leveled out the iron, and put contact back into the center of the face. We'll see if it holds up through the next round.


    My problem is actually the opposite than yours - low heel. The three tee drill actually puts me back in the center. Line up a tee just off the toe and heel of your club along with one in the center. If you toe your shots, then try to clip the outside tee at impact. If you heel your shots, clip the inside tee. Start without a ball. Fixes me every time. To carry it on the course, I focus hitting the inside portion of the ball. Here's a video of the drill. Don't let the title fool you. It's not just for correcting shanks.


  8. Bubba plays a 7.5* because of he hits a high ball with a driver, I think his angle of attack is around +5*.


    Here is a link to some numbers and such that include Bubba, not sure if they are still accurate or not, these number might be in theory



    I read somewhere else it was the following data

    Launch Angle ~ 13.5*

    Spin Rate ~ 2200 rpm

    Ball Speed ~ 187 mph

    Angle of attack ~ +5*


    You crack me up. Always a link for everything. LOL.

  9. I really need to make an effort to stop reading threads about the i20s. Ping has finally started to get it an make nicer looking clubs.


    I'm starting to wonder if I need a set considering all their customization options. I know the answer to that question, I don't need them, but still...


    I can't recommend Ping's WRX division highly enough. When I lived in Phoenix, I'd always go over there to have stuff tweaked. They knew me by name - probably prefaced by "That PITA". When I moved, they probably threw a party in my honor. ;)


    Shipping costs have kept me from taking advantage of their services more since I've relocated to the Midwest, but I'll be sending my 60 degree Tour-W wedge in for a TS grind shortly.

  10. A2G: I'm what my instructor calls a "true sweeper" so I had the same worries as you when it came to the i20's. Getting them on grass the thought from both him, myself and the Ping fitter was "not bad". The resulting answer was to move to the S56's or get the Tour grind on the i20's. I've gone with the later and it's suprising what hacking 3 degrees of bounce off has done to them.


    Maybe you're happy with the i15's as is but if the cost isn't too bad, I'd order a single iron, either a 6 or 7 and get them to plunk the Tour grind on it for you (anywhwere from 1 to 4 degrees they'll remove) with your shaft and grip of choice. I imagine your opinion on how they work in the turf will change rapidly. Now, that's not to say I think they'll be golden on hard pan. I won't get to try that out until late summer and I cannot imagine them being as good as the S56's or my Pro Combo's in that situation, but I don't imagine they will be all that bad either. We'll see. For now, anything short of hard pan gets a thumbs up from me.


    Tuna, as far as I'm concerned, the I15's are the I20's with a tour grind. Same progressive head shape. Same clean look at address. I think the I20's cavities are cleaner and pretty cool looking, but that's cosmetic and I'm not sure they are worth the upcharge versus what I paid (more on that in a minute).


    Either way, I'm pretty happy with the I15's. I shot my lowest round of last season in the first month of this season - after just my second outing with the new sticks. If something is working for me then I tend to not want to mess with it.


    Besides, I got a lightly used set of I15's for $275 + Shipping. Hard to pass that up.

  11. For me it's:


    1) Bad tempo - this will kill my whole round if I'm swinging out of my shoes and not feeling the club head. A bad tendency that I revert back to from time to time.


    2) Consistency with the Driver - I don't care if I'm not hitting it straight as long as it's consistent. If that's the case then I can compensate and play with it. For instance, if I'm drawing or hitting a borderline hook, then I can aim down the right hand side and bring it back into the fairway. If I happen to hit it straight the next time doing that then I could be OB.


    3) Lack of accuracy on approach shots - Nothing burns my a$$ more than giving up shots in the short approach game. Especially if I'm driving the ball exceptionally well.


    4) Sand Play - I'm a horrible bunker player. The pros find it easy and sometimes intentionally hit it into bunkers. Evidently they don't play in the dirt and rock strewn bunkers my muni courses feature.


    5) The Shanks - My flat swing is prone to them. And they come in bunches - like locusts.

  12. Regarding the Nike Method...


    I switched from a Blade putter to the Odyssey Sabertooth towards the end of last season. Best move I ever made. I used to suffer from the yips on short puts under pressure. The Tooth has pretty much put a stop to that. I'm also making more puts between 6 and 12 feet. My only issue is lag putting - it's sometimes hard to gauge distance on long putts.

  13. I have no idea why Bones didn't try harder to convince him to walk back to the tee. Trying to punch that ball out of the bamboo with a toe down wedge was just stupid. Then again, we've done it too and maybe that's why Phil is so endearing. B)

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