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  1. KBS Tour V basically is a beefed up KBS Tour with a firmer tip section. Nowhere near as stout as PX, but firmer feeling compared to KBS Tour.
  2. Hi guys, does any of you have first hand experience with the new ACCRA steel shafts? I’m playing Modus 105 S-Flex these days and plan to go a bit heavier in shaft weight to help maintain my rhythm a bit better. ACCRA 115 could be an option, just would like to know, if anyone is familiar with the characteristics and/or feel (I know....very subjective) of those shafts. Any input is appreciated Cheers Golfmanufaktur
  3. The CT Lite isn’t overly exotic, when it comes to the profile of the shaft. I would take a closer look into the MRC Blueboard profiles or PX Evenflow/Riptide.
  4. Modus 120 is a very different profile compared to PX. Way softer under the hands and in the middle section of the shaft. They are similarly firm in the tip section though. Not saying, that you can not replace PX by a Modus 120, but it’s not a given, that it will work out the intended way. The easiest replacement is the C-Taper 130X.....very similar shaft, since it’s been designed to mimic the PX. Another option could be DG X7.
  5. Since the G400 is one of the heavier heads out there, a counterbalanced shaft might be a good option. Hzrdus Smoke YELLOW is an option, as is the already mentioned Aldila Rogue Silver. Or you go shorter in playing length and get your trusted Graffaloy shaft
  6. As already pointed out by others, impact location determines playing length. If you hit the ball well, don't change playing length. If you have issues with the contact, you can start with some adjustments. The advice to grip shorter is your first starting point, if you want to feel it out. Cheers, Michael
  7. Mavricks are a nice improvement over Rogues. Looks are pretty similar, but sound and with this feel is improved on the Mavricks. I played XR Pros for a couple of years and the Mavrick Pros are way nicer in direct comparison. Cheers, Michael
  8. You won`t find a lot of differences in between your 585s and the Forged or Hot Metals. Hot Metals are a good bit more chunky, but Forged is relatively similar. I prefer the Srixons because of their sole design. I'm not super steep, but take a healthy divot once in a while. The Srixon sole works a lot better, when doing that compared to the Mizzys. If you are a picker of the ball, this might not affect you at all. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers, Michael Edit: The Tours are a totally different design. More similar to Z-Forged - even 785s are way easier to hit for me personally.
  9. PX HZRDUS line is pretty round - you might feel a spine in a spine finding device, but it won't make a difference in playing performance, since the difference between the hard and the soft side of a high end graphite shaft these days is very small. I remember old Alidla NV Green days, where you could find shafts with a difference of 15cpm from the soft to the hard side of a shaft - with a modern high end graphite shaft, you will have troubles finding more than 2cpm. Long story short - installing them logo down is most likely a good way to go. Cheers, Michael
  10. Always keep in mind, that there is no guarantee, that the softer tip profile/softer middle profile will generate a higher launch for you. You might just not hit it consistently, since it doesn't fit your swing and feel preferences. While in theory, shafts like Evenflow Red, HZRDUS Red, ACCRA 100 series, potentially raise your ballflight, if you can time them right. But reality is, that this isn't true for a couple of players. You might eventually see the oposite for you, cause you deliver the club in a certain way, that causes the high launch shaft to launch lower - I`ve seen that a couple of times in my years fitting golfclubs. If you need to consistently higher your ballflight - use more loft. If you run into spin issues with a higher lofted club - check impact location first and potentially check out a different CoG head design. Shafts can only do so much - if the head paramteres aren't good for you, no shaft can fix that. Cheers, Michael
  11. Golfmanufaktur

    PX LZ shafts

    The easiest way to make a steel shaft play firmer, is to add weight. The general characteristics stay the same, but you beef up the walls, which gives you a higher frequency, which is reflected in the Rifle stiffness designation (5.0, 5.5, etc.) PX LZ is an interesting animal with it’s relatively soft midsection and firm tip and butt design. It’s a nice mid launch/mid spin design for most players and easier to handle than the standard PX for most players. When testing PX LZ steel shafts for the first time a couple of years ago, I was pleasantly surprised. I don’t get along with Standard PX at all, since my release isn’t super late. I could game PX LZ all day long, but prefer the feel of Modus 105 over PX LZ. But that’s 100% personal preference. And yes...lighter golf shafts can feel a bit harsher on misshits, due to the thinner walls providing less dampening properties. Funny enough, it’s more noticeable in light graphite shafts for irons compared to their heavier relatives. Cheers, Michael
  12. That’s, what I did with mine. Red is a nice tip active, yet stable profile with a slightly lower balance point. A nice match for a fairwaywood for sure.
  13. I rarely fit players into counterbalanced shafts in a fairway wood, even if they like the feel in their driver. Those shafts in drivers are nice, if working with a heavier head like the Ping G410s. Pair them with a Mavrick or a similarly lighter driver head, and they don’t work for most players. The same applies to fairway woods. If there would be a design out there with a higher headweight (which I am honestly not aware of), using a counterbalanced shaft could be a good idea. If not, stick to a shaft with a normal to slightly lower balance point. Those - again generally speaking - tend to produce better results in a fairway wood. YMMV - but those are my findings in the fittings over the last couple of years, when counterbalanced shafts became more of a thing in the industry cheers, Michael
  14. I was always surprised by the low launch shafts from Graphite Design. It’s not my preferred profile, but PM-9003 was a pretty nice option in that segment. And the TourZ RPGs from ACCRA are pretty nice as well.
  15. Without precise numbers and more details from your side, it’s hard to give you a useful recommendation. But let let tell you some minor facts about shafts and their capabilities: They are first and foremost a timing device. If a shaft fits your swing profile, it will help you hit the ball better more often. The impact of static loft on launch and spin is higher, than the impact of a shaft in most cases. So using a head, that’s not suited for you and trying to fix it with a shaft might not be a good idea. And a quick heads up on another issue: prior to doing anything else, check your impact location. If that’s off, it’s a performance killer for sure. A shaft might help with that, but I would start from the head to shaft and grip in the end. Cheers Michael
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