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Posts posted by TheHacker

  1. In general, I think the shaft does very little to affect the performance, however it does affect feel and affect how you swing. If a shaft feels too stiff and boardy, one would tend to swing harder just to get the right feel, resulting in overall poor performance. 


    The right shaft matched to a club head of choice WILL result in very significant performance improvements. I say that with confidence because that is exactly what happened to me. 


    That said, when dealing with club heads like SLDR, finding the right loft matters because here again you want to get the right launch and spin numbers - which is highly dependant on getting the loft correct.

  2. That was undoubtedly my opinion as well come the end - proving that even when launch monitors aren't jacked up you still need to make sure they are working or your going to get some funny readings.


    My SLDR is working well - apart from the huge annoyance of having chipped the paint near the hosel. Few wobbly misses but in the main it's been consistent but now ping release the g30..... With turbulators!


    Don't worry about the turbulators. Maybe somebody will come up with a DIY project to add these to their SLDR  :D

  3. I think the Jetspeed is a very good driver and it's very easy to hit. The "loft up" requirements needed to play the SLDR don't apply to the Jetspeed. You can try it in "normal" lofts, whereas you had better try the SLDR in high lofts or you won't get it off the deck. The Jetspeed can be bought brand new for under $100 and at that price how can you resist trying it?


    Jetspeed isn't a bad driver at all, I believe if properly fitted, its as good as any other drivers anytime.


    The lesson I have learned during my SLDR fitting yesterday, regardless of club head, it's the shaft that would make a tremendous difference in performance. However the same shaft which worded so well for one club head might not work as well for another club head.


    Back to SLDR heads, it is indeed a very low spinning head, and you have to disregard the stated loft on the club head and be really objective - look at the numbers you are getting.


    About buying a Jetspeed for as little as a $100, my opinion now - after a really satisfying fitting session, is don't. A $100 spent on a driver that doesn't work for you is a $100 wasted. I know it's pricey, but the same $100 was what it costed to get myself fitted, although it is refunded upon my purchase of the driver which I gladly did.


    So what did I get for that same $100? I got to know a lot about my swing - like with a SLDR I'm launching about 13 - 14 deg, with a 2100 - 2400 rpm spin. The very experienced club fitter shared with me from his years of experience and observations about my swing - giving me a lot of objective knowledge about my swing which I wouldn't had know up till now.


    For that I'm think I got the most perfect driver for my swing I ever got in my golfing life. I think that's a $100 well spent.


    Bottom line, go get fitted. You'll be glad you did.

  4. Today I finally got myself properly fitted for an SLDR at Adidas Taylor Made. Loft is 10.5, had to set to fade slightly to compensate for my tendency to close the club face too quickly. The head was matched to a Matrix Ozik Red 6Q3 shaft in S flex. Gotta admit this has been then best feeling combo I every swung in years.


    That said, this has been the second time I really got properly fitted for my golf clubs, the first time was years ago with my ZB forged irons which I still use today.


    I'm all excited about the new driver and can't wait for my order to be shipped to my hands.

  5. Enjoyed the article but.

    game improvement is based on options to select a precise flex from the same shaft for your unique swing.


    The problem is when changing the flex profile of a driver shaft they feel really to stiff. We have solved that big problem.


    Facts are the head is mainly for forgiveness. The shaft, if it is the right one to fit your unique swing, can mean a big time game improvement.


    We fit based on a new concept.

    Options to Maximize by

    Increasing swing speed

    Increasing more dead center hits at impact

    Swing weight improvement


    We look for the best swing speed combined with the best center impacts.


    In these 14 different flex profiles, there is probably a perfect fit for you. But, the only way to find it, is hit them until you find it. The only way. The rest of fitting methods are good guesses. attachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpg

    How I wish I could have all of that... whole selection of shafts and club heads.


    Wonder how much it would cost to have all that?

  6. Argh help!


    Swing felt good today on the monitor, hit a few shoves but in the main thought I was finding the middle time and time again.


    So using a different monitor today, at a shop not a range and I'm sure that allows for some of the differences - but clearly it wasn't cranked up. The poor pro was left a broken man, we lofted up, we lofted down, we played with weights, shafts and had a group hug.


    He'd rarely seen someone hit so many close to the middle line, but he'd never seen anyone with my clubhead speed spin the ball like I did today. Even tried extra stiff shafts, nope no difference.


    I'm taking the yardages with a slight pinch of salt as I hit some of these pretty damn well, much better than my last session where the balls apparently went further. I used the same ball throughout (nxt tour) the same tee throughout.


    So enjoy the picture below.....attachicon.gifimage.jpg


    Key to the drivers used:


    1. Callaway x hot pro 8.5

    2. Nike covert 2.0 - 9.5

    3. Nike covert 2.0 - 8.5

    4. Nike covert 2.0 tour - 9.5

    5. TM SLDR 9.5

    6. TM jetspeed 9.5

    7. Callaway alpha 9

    8. Callaway big Bertha 9

    9. X hot 2 - 9.5

    10. X hot 2 pro - 8.5

    11. Wilson FG tour - 9.5


    All shafts were stiff for the shots in the graphic above.


    Note clubhead speed super consistent start to finish.


    Haven't shown it on this graphic, but in the main the computer was saying I was squaring the club nicely and the shot shape was v slight draw. Which shouldn't cause this spin - pro was confident it was set right as they've been doing loads of SLDR fittings.


    Comedy moment came when we started thinking about de lofting a SLDR! Used impact tape on face and quite a lot were high, but frankly not roofs, they were still what Id normally be happy with - probably only two which were bordering on a spoon.


    The x hot pro is a mates club so I'm going to stick that in the bag for a few weeks for now, then revisit this in a while. Frankly I'm sick of the sight of drivers right now!



    I'm a little baffled by the numbers. I always thought based on a best humanly possible smash factor of 1.5, a 90 mph ss should result in 135 mph ball speed.  The high spin rates you are getting vs the ball speed also does not match.


    Personally I suspect the launch monitors you have used were off by quite a fair bit.


    I think it also takes a very extreme out / in + open face contact to get the kind of spin rates you have got with the moderate loft you are using - or at least extreme enough for the name eye to see that the swing is not quite right. So if the tester is also baffled, my suspect is the launch monitors were not set up correctly.

  7. For my irons, length and correct lie angle is everything, while accuracy and distance control matters more than anything.


    However modern drivers have better MOI and large forgiving faces. What matters is comfort and with square face contact. 


    A small miss towards the toe or heel, near crown or near the sole shouldn't cause too much damage. 

  8. Like most other component-brand name - like SMT, Alpha, Bang, Nakashima really do offer excellent quality stuff. Among these brands, Alpha and Nakashima has always been the best quality I have seen. It their hay days, Nakashima had always been quite pricey compared to Bang and SMT golf.



    Nowadays, nobody really want to play these golf clubs much. Not for want of quality or technology. But rather a TaylorMade or Callaway is about the same price as a fully assembled component club and has more brand recognition.


    If ever there's a head to head test of these component clubs of yesteryears, I would not be too surprised that most / or all of them would perform just as well, if no nearly as well as the modern SLDR or whatever.

  9. For me longer shaft means that I tend to hit the ball more towards the toe for my irons. It's very hard to make solid contact that way when the sweet spot is very near to the heel.


    So my irons are always cut 1/2 inch shorted and 2 degrees flat. I guess one man's meat is another man's poison applies here.

  10. There are some clubs that I never get to use, I reckon I could get rid of certain clubs too.


    My utility is my old faithful workhorse, whenever I need to get from point A to point B and there's quite a bit of real estate in between, so this 1 club replaces my 3 wood, 3, 4 and 5 irons.


    My 3 wood & 3, 4 and 5 irons are almost never used. So is my 9 iron, which goes the same distance as my PW, but I'm way more comfortable with my PW.


    So at most I can get rid of 5 clubs here.

  11. I fear to think... do you know what this implies?  :o


    There's no more "extra yards" to be yielded from the latest and greatest! 


    I was on the verge of pulling the trigger and buy an SLDR, now this changes things a bit  :D

  12. I like to sum up my discovery which I think has totally transformed my game - without boring everybody with the details too much.


    I found that it is not how hard or how fast you swing. It is possible to swing and move so fast that you left the club head behind (way too much lag), and the club head never had enough time and space to build up its maximum speed just before or at impact. That had been my problem all these years.


    It's all in the technique and timing. Brute force, swinging faster counts for nothing if all that momentum is not transferred to the club head. In my case, I had to focus on releasing early - I start unhinging once I transition from the top.


    That works for me, YMMV.

  13. I am looking at Titleist for my next set of of irons. However , I'm torn between the two mentioned in the title. I am looking for any and all feedback. If you all have a recommendation for a set of irons I am overlooking please share. Thank you all in advance.




    For me I'll go for the 712MB anytime. I just don't like AP2 design, seem like too much going on.


    That's just based purely on looks, I'm not sure about feel though.

  14. IMHO, I think the most beautiful blades are either the 712MB or the Cleveland 588 series. I love the 712MB satin finish, hopefully when the 714 is available in the market, I can get the 712 more cheaply.


    Comparing the two generations, 712 and 714, I think 712 has a purer look. I'm not sure what's the story behind that slot under the muscle, to blade lovers it's quite redundant.

  15. As a "bogey man", one thing I've learned by getting the GC2 to practice with at home over the winter, top line balls SHOULD be the best choice for any handicap that doesn't include losing lots of golf balls every round.


    At my age, I'll never win any long drive contests so the most important part of my game is the short game. The playability of top line balls is SO much better than "distance rocks", I can't help but feel that quality balls can take strokes off my handicap (even for those of us with slower swing speeds).


    I had been playing the Precept Laddie for a long time, based on price and recommendations based on my swing speed (@80-85 mph). I not only don't lose distance with the ProV, I get a better dispersion so I'm not as likely to go OB or lose the ball!


    Price is an issue, for me as well as many others, so I do play recycled balls (but NOT refurbished).


    For me I prefer to use recycled balls nowadays. It's more psychological than anything.


    No matter what brand I use, if it's brand new from the sleeve, there is only one destination - it goes straight to the water hazard. Brand new balls rarely last more than 3 holes for me. But a used ball, maybe slight scuffed up, can last at least 9 holes before it becomes too scuffed up for use.

  16. My swing speed varies significantly from day to day depending on my energy level.


    For me a high carbohydrate breakfast consisting of cornflakes and soya milk actually reduced my performance, compared to a high fat breakfast of bacon. I have experimented on this enough to more or less conclude this is the case for me.


    With high carb diet, I am not as energetic and my endurance is affected. My typical swing speed rarely go above 105 mph. However with high fat breakfast, my typical swing speed goes up to 108 - 112 mph. There is also a marked improvement in energy level and endurance.

  17. My take is a bad swing is a bad swing no matter it's a blade or a ultra forgiving game improvement club.


    I have a bag of Cleveland HB3 hybrid irons thats so easy to use, if you can't play golf with these, you should consider picking up tennis. However it's not very satisfying to hit game improvement clubs. I switched to my current set of mix cavity and blades initially just to "train" myself to hit the ball better.


    Initially I loss a lot of distance, I was so short (2 clubs shorter) that it was not funny. I hit my 8, 9 and PW exactly the same distance - all of 90m - with roll :D . But over time I build up a lot of confidence and appreciation of blades and players cavities. Now I hit my blades as long as what I did with my HB3 and enjoy the game much more.


    With blades you know when you mishit the ball, and thankfully with a bit of practice such occurrence became rather infrequent. With blades there are no in between. Either you caught it well or you did not. But darned it sure feels good when you pure one.

  18. I recently got fitted for a new driver with a custom shaft. I'm thinking of upgrading my 3 wood as well. My question is, do you tend to put the same shaft in your 3 wood as your driver? What if the 3 wood is a different make altogether?


    My preferred weight for driver shaft would be something in the 50 - 60 gram weight, while 3 wood in 70 - 80 gram feels best to me. So I do not have the same shaft for driver and 3 wood.


    I used to be quite a fuss pot over this issue, and insisted that at least brand wise, my driver, 3 wood, hybrids must be the same, although of different weight range. Now a days I find that it doesn't matter. I still suck no matter what shaft I use. :D

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