IONEPUTT

Is there a good reason you and RickyBobby-PR decided to reply to my last post by telling me what the foot spray is for? I know exactly what it is used for. I only mentioned that the spin numbers will change if NO foot spray is used, and it would be SMART for the golfer to take this fact into account before deciding if their spin numbers are where they should be for best results. And should you want to know, I do NOT use foot spray on my clubs. I much prefer to use Impact Wax instead. It works the same way as foot spray, comes in a much smaller container so it fits in either your golf bag or your pocket much better, I'ts also a LOT cheaper to use. I've also read a few reports about foot spray being HARD to remove from your driver face if you use it often and don't wipe it off right after you're done. NOT a problem with Impact Wax. I leave is on for weeks at a time with NO problems at all. You might want to consider and new and better option next time you head to the range to hit your drivre or woods.

But the broader point is that, to get a functional shot, most people will (intuitively or not) react to how the shaft is working. If YOU want to react to how a shaft works is to "Change" you swing, that's fine with me, it's your swing not mine. ME. i prefer to react to how a shaft is working by doing one of two things. IF I LIKE the way the shaft is working, I might just keep it in the club. But IF I do NOT like the way the shaft is working, i just pull the shaft and install another shaft. I do NOT change my swing to fit the shaft. I change the shaft to fit my swing. Is that so hard for so many of you on this site to understand????

Once again you reply to one of my posts and don't understand what I posted. Please this again and try to read WHAT I typed and NOT what you think I posted. Let me answer your second question first. I did NOT say any high quality shaft would produce equal performance. What I said was they would perform well. That does NOT mean that any good shaft would be a "good fit" for every golfer. That is just not going to happen with so many different golfers out there with different needs. Read it again and let's hope you notice the part about every shaft NOT being a good fit for every golfer. Did you see that part? You might also notice where I said not every shaft will produce equal performance. So your comments about my post being so much wrong, is't my problem but rather a matter of YOU not being able to read what is being typed.

You mention foot spray??? I hope you know that your foot spray is acting as a lubricant, and it is going to "Reduce" your spin numbers by around 10%, if not more. You might want to take this into account next time you are on a launch monitor and look at your spin rate numbers.

I see a LOT of different advice being posted here. NOT uncommon on a golf forum, since most of those that post their opinion are just repeating what they read or heard from others. What I would recommend is that you look up Clay Ballard and watch his video on learning to swing UP at the ball. Going from a negative angle of attack to an upward AOA will make a HUGE improvement in your numbers. It will give you a higher ball flight, with less backspin and more carry yardage. I think I"m correct in thinking you posted a smash factor of 1.3. That is NOT good. It should be somewhere from 1.45 to 1.5 for more ball speed from your club head speed. Center of club face hits should be at least 1.45 and 1.5 is your end goal. You also have way too much side spin. I'd like to see your sidespin under 1000 at least. Backspin is too high as well. Should be OVER 2000 and under 2600 would be a good range to start with. Launch angle around 13-15* would be my recommendation for your clubhead speed. IF you learn to hit UP at the ball, this alone should help correct your low launch high spin data.

Let me answer your second question first. I did NOT say any high quality shaft would produce equal performance. What ai said was they would perform well. That does NOT mean that any good shaft would be a "good fit" for every golfer. That is just not going to happen with so many different golfers out there with different needs. Now for your first question. I have NO IDEA why you or any other golfer would swing differently with one shaft compared to another. NO IDEA What I would have to say it that if a golfer swings one shaft driver differently than another shaft driver, based on "feel", then I'd have to say he did it on his own. It was NOT the shaft that "MADE" him swing differently. HE did that all on his own. Speaking for myself, and myself only for a second, i do NOT change my swing because of the shaft in the club. I just make the SAME swing and IF the shaft/head combo doesn't perform well, than it's becasue of the shaft, NOT ME changing my swing. IF YOU or any other golfer change your swing because of how the shaft "feel", then that is YOUR CHOICE. I have at least a dozen sets of high quality irons, all with different shaft both S and X flex, shafts from TRUE TEMPER, KBS, RIFLE, NIPPON, and one or two others, and I swing them all the same way. I do NOT change my swing based of what set of irons I happen to be using on a certain day. I swing the same regardless of what shaft might be in the head. IF YOU choose to change your swing due to how the shaft feels, that is on YOU, not me. Bottom line is that I do not believe that any swing would CAUSE any golfer to make a different swing based of FEEL. If the golfer changes his or her swing based on how the club feels due to the shaft change, then it's on the golfer, NOT the shaft. If YOU allow the shaft to make YOU change your swing, that is your problem. I choose to make the same swing and let the shaft do what it was designed to do. If I don't like what I get from the shaft/head combo, I change one or both, I do NOT change my swing. Sorry if you don't like my answer, but it is what it is.

I don't believe I mentioned how far I hit my driver. So you know, I normally hit my driver 260 yards carry. Add in some roll out and I'm in the area of 285-290 total. As you mentioned, NOT too bad for an old fat guy with a heart condition. While I'm not positive, I'm willing to bet that IF i get out to the driving range more than once every two months and hit a lot more range balls, my swing speed with the driver will come back and be a lot more consistent as well. I could be wrong but that is my guess until I figure it out. I think that with more practice my timing will come back and become more consistent and my speed will come back to what it was.

I would love to know why you think I have a significant power leak in my swing. IF you can tell me your reasoning maybe I can figure out how to swing my driver faster more often. That would be great if I can get it up to 105-108 more consistantly. In case you don't know much about me. let me tell you that I am 75 years old, and I had at least 3 heart attacks 7 years ago and had 3 stents installed in 3 of the 4 major artieries in my heart 6-1/2 years ago. I'm old, FAT, and out of shape as well. So I'm thinking for an old fat guy I'm doing pretty good to be swinging my wood over 105 MPH more often than not and in the low 100's at times with my driver. IF I have a noticeable power leak in my swing, I would LOVE to find a way to plug the leak and see what I can do.

To be honest cnosil, I think you and a lot of others here over think the whole shaft details way too much. I have at least 40 after-market shafts in some of my drivers that work quite well for me. Most any good high quality shaft will perform well if it's properly aligned in the head. While I wholly agree that one or two shafts might perform a lot better than others, I also believe that most high quality after-market shaft will perform well IF it fits the golfer using it. What I posted in my last post was that "feel" is highly over rated as a way of picking a shaft. What I go by is "Performance", and not feel. That is the way I pick a shaft for my clubs, and it's the way I recommend all golfers do it.

I have to ask you one question. How many of those dozen shafts you are trying in your driver have been either SST Pured or spine and FLO aligned? IF your answer is few or none of them. you could very well be wasting your time and effort. A lot of people of this site do not believe that it matters, but I'm NOT one of those golfers. If you would like to learn why I only use shafts that have been properly aligned when I build a golf club. let me know and I'll be happy to give you the reasons why it matters and can make a huge difference in how a club will perform. Feel free to send me a PM and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

I read way too much talk about FEEl, and not enough about "Performance". I've been playing golf for 21 years and building clubs for over 20, and I don't care about feel. I care about how the club performs. If a certain shaft performs well, that is what matters to me. IF that shaft should FEEL bad or not to my liking, I don't really care too much. IF it perforrms better than a shaft that feels GOOD, I'll take the higher performing shaft over the "feel good" shaft every time. ONe thing I learned a long time about about golf clubs, is that what "FEELS GOOD" in your hands is almost always an issue of what YOU are USED TO, and not what feels better. If a golfer is used to cheap high torque factory shafts in their drivers, they are almost always going to perfer the feel of a high torque shaft in their driver. Give that golfer a low torque shaft to try and they don't "Like the feel" of the shaft and reject it even if the shaft our performs their current shaft. I hear this a lot from golfers that only use factory high torque light weight shafts. But IF they can be convinced to TRY the different shaft and hit enough balls to get USED TO IT, more often than not they learn to like the different feel and end up playing the shaft that performs better rather than the shaft that "FEELS" better when they first tried it. Bottom line is that what "Feels good" is almost always about what a golfer is "USED TO". And since most all OEM clubs come with cheap low quality shafts, most golfer only know what they feel with those cheap shafts. Give them a good after-market shaft and it does not "FEEL RIGHT. so they reject it. BUT if said golfer is smart enough to hit a small bucket of balls with that "different shaft". a high percentage of those smarter golfers learn to like the NEW feel of a high end shaft and what it can do for their clubs. FEEL is mostly about what you are used to. Performance is about what WORKS best for the golfer, I always go with what WORKS best and don't worry about feel.

Not really sure what the issue is with my driver at times. My speed can be 105-108 one day and then drop off to low 100 or high 90's, than it's back up to as high as 120. My thinking is it's mostly about timing and getting everything is the correct order to get the max out of my swing. For some reason the woods stay about the same whether the driver is working well or not. Old age could be part of it of course.

Transfer ratio (AKA Smash Factor) went from 1.44 with the X flex down to 1.34 with the R flex. That info along with the launch angle ans spin rate difference should tell you all you need to know.

LOTS of opinions posted here but FEW facts or test data has been given. The TRUTH is that only YOU can find out IF you do your own TESTING and see what you find out. I've been tested on a launch monitor with 55,65 75 grams shafts and I got the exact same 104 MPH swing speed with all three shaft weights. That was over 15 years ago, and I have NOT found this to change over the years. THAT'S ME. What YOU will see if anyone's guess. ONLY way to know is to try some different weight shafts and SEE what YOU get with each. I recently purchased 3 new 78 gram driver shafts to try out in my 2 Callaway drivers I picked up this spring. For ME, a 75 grams class shaft just works best for me and I get the same swing speed and MORE consistency control with that weight shaft in my drivers. And for what it's worth. I swing my 85 grams shaft fairway woods FASTER than I swing my longer and lighter driver. Don't ask me why as I don't really know why, I just know that I do it. Could explain why I averaged 255 yards total off the tee with my 5 wood last time I was out on the course. TEST both and see what YOU get and forget what others have told you. It's YOUR game and what works for YOU that matters.

I can see how pace of play could be an issue, But I also like to think that a good course designer with some tour experience could figure out a way to make the pace of play flow along with little or no problems. I don't know about where you play, but here in the Denver area a round of golf takes about 5 hours these days, and I for one have had to WAIT on the groups ahead of me more often than not a lot of the time. I'm not sure if a 6-6-6 hole course could make it too much worse. I'm OLD, FAT and OUt of shape plus I walk every round I play, and yet I have to wait on the young guys in the groups ahead of me that are riding a cart. I hate to say it but I believe slow pace of play has more to do with BRAIN POWER than it does with course design. LACK of skill doesn't help either.

Last time I checked about 95% of 18 hole golf courses are all basically the same design. They have 4 par 3's, 4 par 5's, and then 10 par 4's. WHY? For a few years now I have wondered why someone doesn't design a course with 6 par 3's 6 par 4's and 6 par 5's. An equal number of each instead of the same old same old thing. I'm NOT saying this would be a better design, but at least it would be a FRESH idea and something new for a change. This idea would also free up the head designer to use the land that is available to it's best usage. Surely NOT all the land that is used to build a golf course is best used if the old designs are used. Why not open up the world of golf to a few new ideas for a change? What do you guys think of this idea?

It could be the shaft in your 21* hybrid just needs to be spine and FLO aligned. I did this work for a playing partner and his hrbrid went from couldn't hit it to now being one of his favorite clubs. And it's a LOT less expansive to have the shaft aligned then it is to buy a new club that may or mayNOT work any better than what you have.

A couple days ago I posted a reply to a statement that playing at altitude like in Denver the ball goes 10% farther. I my post I stated that here in the Denver area we get about 5% more carry according to the tip from a PGA Tour caddie. I just got an email from Titleist and in their article I found this info. Hey, Team Titleist. This week the Korn Ferry Tour travels to Berthoud, Colorado for The Ascendant. The tournament is aptly named, as a climb of nearly a mile high is required to get to the host course, TPC Colorado (5,030 feet above sea level). The game changes at these heights and altitude presents some unique and noticeable challenges. From 1986 through 2006, The International in Castle Rock, CO (elevation: 6,224′) was a regular tour stop on the PGA Tour. More recently, the WGC - Mexico Championship has been staged at Club de Golf Chapultepec in Mexico City (elevation - 7,349′). And today, the Barracuda Championship, hosted just outside Lake Tahoe, CA (elevation 5,817') has become a late-season mainstay on the PGA Tour. Bottom line, PGA Tour players are exposed fairly regularly to the adjustments needed to play well at elevation. But what about the (predominantly) younger and inexperienced Korn Ferry players who might never have played thousands of feet above sea level? How will it affect their games? You probably know or have heard that the golf ball flies farther at high altitude, but is it impacted in other ways? For some answers, we reached out to the experts in Titleist Golf Ball R&D. Here are some key points to keep in mind the next time you have a chance to play where eagles dare. EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE ON GOLF BALL PERFORMANCE: • The golf ball does fly farther in high altitudes. This is mainly due to the change in air density, which decreases as elevation increases. Thinner air exerts less drag force on the ball. The ball moves more easily through the air and doesn't slow down as quickly as it flies, resulting in greater distance. • The force of gravity also decreases the further we move away from the earth's center, but the change in force is too small to have any significant effect on the ball. • You can calculate the distance gain you will experience (compared to sea level) by multiplying the elevation (in feet) by .00116. For example, if you're playing in Reno, at 1 mile elevation (5,280 ft.) the increase is about 6% (5,280 x .00116 = 6.1248). If you normally drive the ball 250 yards at sea level, you will likely drive it 265 yards in Reno. • The golf ball does not spin any less at high elevation. However, because the air is less dense and imparts less force on the ball, the lift force is also lower. You'll see a flatter trajectory on your longer shots, a more shallow angle of descent and greater roll. • Because the air is less dense at higher altitudes and imparts less force on the golf ball, the ball won't slice or hook as much. It will be harder to shape shots. • The shorter the shot and the slower the ball moves through the air, the less impact altitude will have on golf ball aerodynamics. This means, on short approaches and greenside shots, you don't have to adjust for elevation. While this info is surely correct, they don't take into account the effect of the dry air in Denver. Dry air is denser than moist air so the tour pros use 5% rather than the 6% that the formula comes up with.

IF you keep coming up short using your 9 iron I would suggest you try your 7 irons and see if that gets you the distance you need. I use my 7 irons about 80% of the time for chipping but switch between 7 and PW depending on distance to the green and distance to the cup. Try a few clubs and go with what works for the shot you have to make.

Thanks Bobbers: I just have to take a few measurements off of my current design and then make a few changes and build a new model. Should be pretty simple to do and shouldn't take very long. I"ll let you know what I come up with in case anyone else is interested in trying a high CG putter design.

I've been doing some thinking on the issue of putters lately. I know my high CG putter works as I designed it to, and now I'm thinking of building a new design that will meet all of the USGA rules for golf clubs and see if my new design works just like my current design. If it does I think I'll see if I can get my new design approved by the USGA and I can then start to sell them as as "Conforming" putter. Should be pretty easy to make a few changes to my old design so I can build a new model for testing.

HI BIG STU: While I do live in Colorado, the distance gains at a mile high is NOT 10% as some have stated. It's more like 5% . When I played golf in Cabo awhile back I was hitting all of my irons about half a club shorter that what I do in Colorado. I have 15 yards between clubs, so that equates to about 7-8 yards less carry at sea level compared to here in the Denve area. There are a few reasons for the difference being only 5% here in Denver. One is that the air is very DRY, and dry air is heavier than moist air so the ball loses speed faster here in Denver than it does in moist air at sea level. One other factor is that thin air means LESS LIFT due to backspin. As you know backspin causes lift with all of your clubs, and thin air just does NOT create as much lift as thicker sea level ais does, and that means the ball falls out of the air faster and that means less carry, especially with the driver and woods. When the PGA tour was in town a few years ago. 5% was the number the caddies were using when they gave the distance needed on approach shots so their players would hit the ball the correct distance taking the thinner dry air into account. Not sure where the 10% number comes from but my bet would be from baseball. Baseballs DO travel about 19% farther here in Denver, but baseballs do NOt depend of backspin and the lift the backspin creates to help the ball stay up in the air longer. With a golf ball, back spin helps a lot, but at mile high Denver not as much. I hope this helps to explain why 5% is closer to the truth than the 19% some have mentioned.

My bag is kind of unique. The longest iron in my bag is my 6 iron. Then I carry 4 woods. 3W, 5W, 7W AND 9 W to fill in the gap to my driver. My 9 wood gives me 205 carry, so it plays like a 5 irons, only with more spin so it holds the greens better on long par 3's and approach shots. 7 wood is good for 220 carry and 5 wood about 235 carry. I also have a home made putter with a high CG that gets the ball rolling on the greens a lot faster than any other putter I have tried over the years. May NOT be for everyone but it works well for me.

I don't know if it was shipper error on not, but the seller told me he has been shipping shafts in the same size box for over 25 years and this is the first time he has had any problems with the boxes coming back with postage due issues. He told me there was a NEW guy at his post office the day he shipped out about 40 boxes of shafts, so maybe that is the problem. It's a 48 x6 x6 box that he has been using for years with no issues until now. I do NOT know how much he paid to ship the box, but I paid $15 shipping, so I assume that is close to what he paid, could have been a little more or less, Either way the extra $47 they wanted to ship the shafts to me is way too much.

I got an update on my box of golf club shafts. Here is the latest info from the post office June 1, 2022, 7:46 am Arrived at Post Office AIKEN, SC 29803 Your item arrived at the Post Office at 7:46 am on June 1, 2022 in AIKEN, SC 29803. May 31, 2022, 7:32 pm Departed USPS Regional Facility AUGUSTA GA DISTRIBUTION CENTER May 31, 2022, 11:17 am Arrived at USPS Regional Origin Facility AUGUSTA GA DISTRIBUTION CENTER Seems that the box went back to Aiken for a second time for "Postage Due" reasons. Seems that the Augusta folks decided more money was required so they sent the box back to Aiken again. I got a phone call from the seller this morning and he talked to a woman in Aiken post office and she told him if he wanted the box shipped to me in Colorado, they need $47 more money, Or if he wanted to pick up the box at the Aiken post office, they would only charge him another $30 to give him back the box. This is all on TOP of what he paid to have the box shipped to me using Priority Mail back on Mar 19th. What a screwed up mess for a box of shafts that weight about one pound including the box. He paid around $15 back on Mar 18th for Priority Mail, and now 2 weeks later the box is still in S.C. and they want more money. To add to the problem, the seller is NOT in S.C., but in Michigan for the summer and will not be back in S.C. for 4 months, so he can't pick up the shaft in Aiken even if he wanted to. Anyone know if the Pony Express is still in business? I'm sure a stagecoach could get to me faster than this Priority Mail garbage.