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Everything posted by jaskanski

  1. How often? About every time I have a lesson (never mind seasons) I work on the basics first. These are grip, stance, alignment, ball position. Without these fundamentals in place, it's pretty difficult to swing with any consistency - simply because, if you have no consistency in your set up, then how can you hope to have any consistency in your swing? Therefore, if your set up can become almost second-nature - and more importantly repeatably accurate, then you have a better chance of returning the clubhead to the ball the way you intend.
  2. A friend of mine did this a while back. Basically it's a DIY puller made from odds and ends that is pretty easy to replicate. Hopefully he won't mine me sharing (Carlo) http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/426268-diy-shaft-puller/
  3. As is my old friend Howard Jones. I've certainly learned a great deal from Tom, Joe and Howard over the years. Toms shaft database is pretty invaluable.
  4. Each driver will have it's own geometry, weight, CoG location, MOI, CoR and if you haven't had them digitally loft checked either, then the lofts will be a complete mixed bag too. So all things being equal (shafts included) it's pretty much impossible to say which head will spin more or less than others, without comparing each one in turn. Obvious characteristics like low loft, forward weight and and higher CoG location will tend to promote lower spin, but it's not quite that simple in reality. My advice would be to choose which set up fits your eye the best first - looks count for a lot in
  5. Your swing speed seems to suggest you would need something in the X-flex category IMO for help with dispersion (and the dreaded left). The 57 Speeder is quite light and flexible for the R15 and the high SS might be directly attributed to this. What is interesting is the difference in launch and spin - this seems to suggest you have a steep negative angle of attack on the ball which works against you with the lower lofted (and open faced) Titleist. It's certainly worth trying the X-flex in the R15 head and increasing the loft a tad (10.5) for more consistent (and straighter) results.
  6. Feel. And possibly trajectory second.
  7. Sweet. Whats the Peter Millar connection? I know they used to make some clothes for Titleist a few years back.
  8. Exactly. Spin is direct result of Newtons laws of motion. The angle of attack, combined with loft and club speed determine the spin rate. Without friction of some sort, then spin would not be generated according to Newtons third law - for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. This accounts for why a backspin is a result of a club with an angled face travelling in one direction imparts spin in the opposite direction of the force. Friction is why the ball doesn't simply jump forward with zero spin, or jump forwards with top spin (if you hit it right lol). The direction of the
  9. Really? Strange how the Titleist website seems to contradict this. Specifically, under the title of "don't believe the hype" when talking about compression. http://www.titleist.co.uk/golf-ball-fitting/
  10. Personally, I've never understood why anyone would want to select a ball based on their swing speed. If you break down the shots played in a round, how many actually are struck at 105mph (which we assume is your maximum driver swing speed)? Maybe 10 if you're lucky? Then work out how many shots account for partial or delicate shots like pitches and chips - and then crucially how many of those shots are putts? Not so many 105mph swing speeds now that any ball "optimised" for this speed can take any if at all advantage of. Therefore, it would make more sense to fit a ball around the shots yo
  11. @revkev. Apologies if you thought my posts were misrepresenting the original premise of your thread. Having read the first again, I think you may be right. Be that as it may though, I feel the use of LM data in the quest for seeking an optimal fit is somewhat over-emphasized at times - and therefore it should be treated accordingly. No surprises that LD guys with 120+mph swing speeds are looking for something noticeably different than a 20 handicapper - but when that same 20 handicapper is connected with the right set up for the first time, I'd suggest the results are more remarkable and so
  12. How many times a year is that?
  13. No sarcasm intended. May I ask exactly what you acquire in two hours on Trackman?
  14. 2 hours on Trackman? Excuse me while I sip coffee between your swings.....
  15. As mentioned before, LM data is only relevant to that particular person at that particular moment in time. However, it is also worth noting that without the feedback and attendance of a trained fitter, you may as well be hitting into a net with any old club. It is also worth noting that contrary to popular belief, trained fitters work for a living and are not in the habit of allowing all and sundry to hit 100+ balls and "take their time" unless the facilities have been booked in advance and a fee has been agreed. I can't stress enough the importance of a proper fitting, but I also can't str
  16. It's also worth noting that most OTR clubs are not specifically lofted to what they say on the bottom of the club. Without actually digitally measuring the loft for each head, this could account for the difference in spin rate alone - regardless of any other differences.
  17. lol - I've always looking at the GD testing panel and thought to myself, "like I'm interested in your opinion anyway". I doubt that the majority of the test panel could muster up some sort of draw either, but here we are hanging on their every word in what makes something "hot". I call BS too - but over half of the industry is driven by it anyway.
  18. Good question. When most club fitters refer to a "spine" it also refers to an imaginary line that bisects the cross section of the shaft. It doesn't rely imply that the spine itself that is on one side of the shaft of the other, but rather that the shaft is essentially asymmetrical in cross section or slightly oval (we're talking microns here) in other words. This may well be true in some designs of graphite shafts, but in the manufacture of some steel shafts it's an inescapable fact that a well seam will be on one side of the shaft - this is basically where the steel is rolled to form a t
  19. Some more light reading lol: http://www.tutelman.com/golf/shafts/allAboutSpines4.php In general, the NBP is aligned at right angle to the club face - i.e. square to target at impact. In other words the direction you want the ball to start to travel.
  20. A teensy bit Cobra-esque? Other than that - another pleasing iron from Titleist.
  21. 10 cpm is roughly a full flex - so 3cpm is roughly equivalent to a hard step or soft step in either direction. Some sets that I've seen unaligned have been as much as 13cpm between clubs - even someone wearing boxing gloves could probably tell the difference on that. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want a set of clubs with a random soft step or hard step thrown in somewhere where you least expect it either. FLOing is nothing without a cpm to reference against - otherwise it is just as easy to FLO a set with huge cpm gaps between clubs - which should be consistent for the flex to lengt
  22. The best way to answer the question would be with another question or two: How do you feel about the irons? Do they give the feel and control you want from club to club? Distance and trajectory OK? If your answers are yes, then you need not look any further. If your answer is no, then you might need to figure out what is the best way to solve your issues. No disrespect, but for most 15 handicappers, the issue often lies with the indian rather than the arrow and a quick lesson with the pro can sort out any underlying swing flaws. Oddly enough, I use 1150 GH's myself - and no, not all m
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