jaskanski
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Posts posted by jaskanski
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3 minutes ago, cnosil said:
For me: Performance, price, branding, feel. I just want a ball that performs well, that is at a price I am willing to pay, don’t care who makes it, and I don’t personally get “feel”.
Yes - but you can tell the diiference in firmness between one ball and another right? Isn't that 'feel'?
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Personally, I'd like to see a breakdown of what percentage of factors goes into purchasing a golf ball.
Most likely it's (from high to low):
1. Branding
2. Price point
3. Performance (?)
4. Feel
For my money, it should be the reverse order. What say you folks?
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What I'm saying is that there are plenty of 'premium' golf balls out there that don't get a second look from me because they don't feel right off the putter. Once it fails this basic go/no go test - why bother evaluating it any further? Most touring pros will tell you the same thing - if it feels OK then it's a good start.
Most high index players could certainly benefit from a better feeling ball around the greens that are far from premium priced but feel just as good. If you like to putt with a rock just because you think it can eek out a few extra yards from your duffed tee shot, then knock yourself out. For the majority of players (who as we've established are around the the index as per your graphic) too much emphasis is placed on distance which is only achieveable (compared to another ball regardless of dimples or construction) if it is struck precisely enough to be worth counting as 'significant'. That would be less than justifiable to be worth considering as a factor in selecting a golf ball.
But a simple 'putt' test? Worth every penny of whatever price point you choose. Sound resonable?
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1 hour ago, StrokerAce said:
a lot of words about a golf ball.
there's got to be a point where the ball - for the most part - is the least important part of a golfers bag.
On the other hand, the golf ball is the only piece of equipment you use for every shot - making it a pretty important factor. If you are looking at variables however, then nothing is more variable than human input - even really good ball strikers will likely never repeat a shot with the same level of accuracy as another.
If you're looking at noticeable performance differences, you'd better be certain that the weakest link in the chain isn't the person swinging the club. And no ball in the world is going to help with a lack of ability - but it can make the differene in the way you perceive how it feels - even with a simple 3ft putt. But alas, 3ft putts are not a big selling point of most golf balls.
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Summer is here so it can only mean...
blades are back!Mizuno holds onto No.1 spot, Titleist woods win, Cleveland wedges are solid, Ping putter edges SC out.Driver - Titleist 915D3 10.5 Grafalloy Prolaunch Red S
3 wood- Titleist 915F 15 Grafalloy Prollaunch Red S
5 wood - Titleist 910F cranked to 20.5 Diamana Blue S
Irons - Mizuno JPX900 Tour 4-PW S300
Wedges - Cleveland RTX3 50V-MG, 54V-LG & 58V-LG S200
Putter - Ping Jas Anser Wti wrx
...for now anyway...:D
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JLP Petit Caballero - very nice Cuban on a budget.
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If they're already installed in iron heads (?) the chanes are you don't need any tip trim if they're built to flex.
PX were originally sold in discrete sets that didn't need any tip trim (even in .370" parallel) as they are a constant weight shaft.
Butt codes should read thus:
Project X - Parallel
6850 41.5-37 Project X 5.0 - Parallel
6868 41.5-37 Project X 5.5 - Parallel
6860 41.5-37 Project X 6.0 - Parallel
6878 41.5-37 Project X 6.5 - Parallel
6888 41.5-37 Project X 7.0 - Parallel
- Fireinthehole and release
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After much deliberation (and almost a lifetime of Titleist use) I've put my faith in the Bridgestone Tour B RXS for this year (as a minimum). It ticks a lot of boxes and now that I don't get any leveraged deals on Titleist balls either, it makes an even easier choice at the price point. An outstanding ball by anyones standards.
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If the shaft prep is anything like the adapter, then the whole thing is pretty much toast. Words fail me.
- MGoBlue100 and BKordon
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The Blue is very stiff in the mid section - the Red is similar but not quite as stout - it's stiffer in the tip.
I currently play the Red and I like the feel and launch - the Blue is just a touch too tight for my liking. I would say if you have a hard aggressive swing with a steeper angle of attack you may like the Blue better to keep the spin down, but smoother swings with a shallower swing AoA will fair better with the Red IMHO. Launch is lower depending on how you swing it.
Blues are still quite common and still used by many on tour for their L/L/L profile, but may be a tad too light for those with harder transitions looking to control their tempo with a heavier shaft. The Red just hits the right spot for me, but low spin drivers who like to work the ball both ways always prized the Blue for this capability.
Two great shafts - the Red is stiffer on paper for labelled flex, but I always felt the Blue just "feels" stiffer because of the aforementioned mid section profile.
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DG X100 soft stepped x1 ? If you can put up with the additional weight (10g).
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If you're looking for a soft to medium tip shaft, the HZRDUS RDX ain't it.
Not sure if the RDX Blue is a free option but the Black RDX is a stock offering. The specs look legit, but the compelling factor is the Hexcel/Hextow fiber - if it hasn't got it on the shaft, it isn't the real deal. The Blue is a counter-blanced shaft. I would make sure you get properly fit before making any informed decision.
If you're looking at soft tip TM options, you need to be looking at the Air Speeder or UST V2 HL or Helium if you play S flex as your signature suggests.
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Well, that's Lent over and done with - which means I can enjoy one of these.
Happy Easter everyone.
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Sounds boring and I hate to keep repeating it - but fundamentals like grip, stance, ball position and alignment are what you need on a regaular basis to keep bad shots to a minimum. If you can't get the basics nailed down cold before you even swing, then you've not much hope of getting anything like consistent.
If nothing else, set up fundamentals eliminate any other variable that may be present in your game (and let's face it, our swings and form are not as repeatable as we'd like) so it gives a good place to start from. Once you know your set up is good, it makes small adjustments to swing techniques a lot easier to get a hold of.
You can't build anything without a solid foundation (as my old teaching pro used to say) - he was right. Whenever I find my game a little rusty, the basics are the reality check that is a sure sign of what is wrong - for me, it's usually ball position creeping too far forward. Not a huge deal I hear you say - but the knock-on effect it has with the rest of my swing is massive. So a quick check that everything is where it should be in the set up leaves one less thing to think about in the swing, freeing up the part of your brain to concentrate on executing a good shot.
- thechrisgibbs and cnosil
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Let's keep it simple - another set of AP2's then?
Nothing will come close to be like what you described other than a set of AP2's. You have several year options to choose from, with the earlier models saving the most money on used sets. PX 6.5 are easy to come by in used too. If the primary reason to change irons is purely wear and tear, then why consider anything else?
Unless you're hell bent on getting a brand new set, I would opt for the used AP2. Simple.
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DG wood shafts were more or less in the same weight range as the irons - so 124-130g.
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Doesn't the UT come as standard with the Project X U shaft? Try a demo with that first to see what the numbers are. The MMT would be somewhat similar at a guess.
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It's important to remember that swingweight is a static measurement of the weight distribution of the overall length of the club. It's entirely possible to have a club with a lower overall mass than a comparable club, but with a higher swingweight - and vice versa.
So the energy required to actually swing a club with greater mass (i.e. overall weight) requires more effort to move a static object. Regardless of swing weight (or balance is a more accurate term), you'll ceratinly feel the difference when force is applied.
Naturally the overall mass and it's distribtion can have an effect on the flex of a club too - so it's imporatant to get both right in fitting. I would say the mass being the more important component.
Swingweight comes into usefulness when building a set of irons of variable decending length and ascending head weight to a known flex. As for building a total set from driver to wedge at the same swingweight - it's possible, but the reason to do so is less valid if you're trying to fit and individual to a characteristic swing. I would imagine there aren't many folks with matching swingweighted clubs apart from irons in their set.
As for MOI matching - that's an entirely different can o' worms...
- LeftyHawk, downlowkey, cnosil and 1 other
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This is a question that you can only answer yourself tbh.
I'm guessing as an 8 handicap you don't have much issues with your current wedges, so unles you feel the need for light and flexible to add launch and spin (?) I'd be inclined to leave them as the are if they work.
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You live in London? - 'there's nobody near me'.
Your home course is...?
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If we could see your swingspeed and peak height/decent angle, it might give a better picture of exactly how 'optimal' those numbers are. If you're not looking to hit it any further, (or dare we say a specific yardage) then the numbers cease to be optimal - here's why:
'Optimal' launch metrics are for one purpose only - to hit the greatest possible distance with a given swing speed and loft. That's it. If you're looking to hit a specific yardage, or control the ball flight, then 'optimal' is not going to win that battle. 'Talent' does - or the abitly to finesse the shot to make the yardage you want regardless of ground conditions and weather conditions. The longer the club, the harder it becomes to hit a 'specific' yardage with any level of accuracy.
For what its worth (being a long time user of a 2-iron myself) I don't really think there is much more to add. If I were hitting low bullets at 252yards, I'd take that all day long if you play a windy links. The main factor is - where does it fill a perceived 'gap'?
The modern 2-iron (especially in the sub-18 degree range) isn't really reknowned a reliable go-to club for a specific yardage, so exactly what 'gap' it fills is open to opinion. From various lies and longer grass, there are better options out there to achieve the same result. Off the tee and better (ie perfect) lies, it can be a reliable fairway finder and wind beater, but if you're looking to hit a repeatable yardage +/- 10 yards or so from anywhere where a 250 yard shot is required, then you either need to be a pro-level ball striker or you need to have a reality check with it's place in your bag.
Long story short, the launch and spin figures are pretty much irrelevant if the ball flight fits the desired result. It's certainly good to hit your given distance off the tee, but don't expect to hit and hold any green with those spin and launch numbers. As a viable option for a low shot on a tight fairway where the resulting approach shot isn't compromised - it makes sense (as was the case with my 2-iron use on specific courses). Anywhere else - I guess you could always putt with it.
My 2 cents.
2000 Prov1 vs 2020 Prov1
in Golf Balls/Shafts/Grips
Posted
Found it...
https://mygolfspy.com/2021-golf-ball-survey-results/