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Everything posted by JudgeSmails

  1. All I wear are bucket hats..I"m a bit of a connissuer. I have a couple favorites...the one I got from Bettinardi (which is made by imperial), a UA Cold Black and one from William Murray Golf.....they are comfortable and great for golf
  2. I tried the UHX driving iron this past weekend and really liked it....price is pretty good compared to other brands also
  3. Good lookin setup! But I call BS on 5-6 years I said that myself before
  4. Building my Indoor Putting Green It’s getting colder in Indiana, and I really wanted a way to practice my putting this offseason. I have REALLY struggled this year, primarily on those 4-6 foot putts I SHOULD be making. It’s caused tons of 3 putts and par saves that could have been. Frustrating part is the rest of my game has been pretty solid, so I wanted to do something about it. But enough about my game, you’re here for my step by step instructions on the build. I know these get talked about a lot, and everyone always wants to know how to do it themselves. Well here you GO! If you have some pretty basic tools lying around and are at least a little handy, you can do this no sweat. Let’s get started with the instructions and I’ll summarize my time and costs at the end. I’m also going to provide links to the exact items I purchased to build this green. First, let’s talk about my finished product. It is an 8’ x 4’ raised green.. It has real, regulation sized holes/cups on each end (so you get that satisfying drop and sound, not just a little ½” step down). The surface is a remnant from Big Moss Golf. I can also add some break to the putts by adjusting the levelers (we will get to that). Everything besides the putting surface itself, can be purchased from Amazon and Lowes (or Home Depot, Menards, etc…) Materials: 8’x4’ ½” Particle Board Underlayment Qty 6 8’ 2x4’s Hole Cups Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers Putting Surface/Carpet Wood/Decking Screws 2.5” and 1” Light Duty Spray Adhesive Tools: Drill Drill Bits Miter Saw (something to cut the 2x4’s) Hole Saw 4 ⅛” Rubber Mallet Sand Paper STEP 1: Build the Frame The nice thing about the dimensions I chose, is that it really limits the amount of cutting you have to do (that was on purpose). You will lay out 2 of the 8’ 2x4’s and these will be the long sides (no cutting needed). Then, you are going to cut 5 45” sections out of the remaining 2x4’s. One thing to remember if you haven’t done much wood working, what they CALL a board is often different than what the actual measurements are. A 2x4 is kind of a generic term. They are actually more like 1.5”x3.5”. So if you do the math, that’s how you come up with the cross beems being cut to 45”, which will give you a total width of 48” or 4ft. Please note, please do you own measurements on this first, and if you are not sure, leave them a touch (⅛”) long, you can always cut more off. It really doesn’t need to be PRECISELY 48” wide, if you are off by ⅛” or whatever, it won’t really matter. It is important, that all your cross beams be the exact same length though. Mine came out really close, are the corners all 100% perfectly square, no, but as long as you are close, it’s not that big of a deal. Once you have them all cut, lay all the 2x4’s out on a nice flat surface how they will go. Start by connecting both ends. I used 2.5” wood/deck screws, 2 in each end (drill small pilot holes to make the screws go in easier). It is important that the top surface be completely flush with each other. You can sit something thin under one or the other, to level them up while you are screwing them together. The bottom side does not need to be flush to each other, but make sure the top side is. After you get the ends done, move to the middle and repeat that process, one exactly in the middle, then split each end in the middle again. Once that was done, I sat the particle board on top and walked on it, I noticed a few spots were a little ‘bouncy’, so I decided to put some more braces running through the middle. I can’t tell you the lengths on these, just measure each one and cut them individually. Attach the same way, 2 screws on each end. You should stagger them like my picture, so that you can get the screws in the end. Since I’m a right handed golfer, I staggered them to the side I would be standing on. Make sure none of the cross beams will interfere with where the holes will be. Again, make sure the top side is completely flush, the bottom side doesn’t really matter. Step2: Attach the Particle Board Underlayment This part is pretty simple. Just lay the 8x4 Underlayment on top of your frame. Shift it around til it as square with the frame as you can get it, and attach with some 1” wood screws. I went around the outside and threw 1 in the middle. This holds it in place just fine. Make sure you countersink the screws below the surface, so you don’t have any bumps on the putting surface. Step3: Cut the Holes This and installing the cups are probably the trickiest part of the build. You will need to buy a 4 ⅛” hole saw, it’s kind of pricey and this is probably the only time you’ll ever use it, but it’s necessary. Lay the putting carpet out on the underlayment (make sure it is completely flat, with no bumps). Get it positioned exactly how you want it. Since the holes were pre-cut in my putting surface, this helped quite a bit. Once you have it laid out, you can take the hole saw, carefully set in the hole, and just give it a couple quick turns to get the arbor hole started and some scoring of the actual hole. Now remove the carpet so you don’t damage it and cut the holes. This hole saw cut through the underlayment pretty quickly and it was nice and clean. Lay the carpet back on the surface and make sure the holes line up nicely. The holes are slightly smaller than the cups we are putting in, I will explain that in step 4. Step4: Install the Cups I was trying to think of the best way to secure the cups, without having to drill holes in them. So I decided to attach them just using pressure. This is why we cut a hole that is slightly smaller than the cups we are installing. This part is a little tedious, you are going to sand the inside of the holes, just to the point that the cups will just start to allow you to force them in the holes you cut. You are going to kind of do this by feel, and it will take some time. It’s very important to not remove too much, otherwise the cups will not stay in place and just fall through. You can use a power sander of some sort if you like, but be careful not to sand too much away. I used a coarse piece of sandpaper and did it by hand. Going around the hole with good old man-power. Check frequently to see how you’re doing, as soon as the cup can start being pushed in a little bit with some force, stop sanding. Now take a piece of scrap 2/4, place it on top of the cup, and start tapping it down with a rubber mallet. Tap until flush w/ the hole you cut (the video below should help visualize this process) Step5: Install the Furniture Levelers Why furniture levelers? 2 reasons. The porch I am putting my green on, is not perfectly level, so when I had a putting mat before, I could never have a perfectly straight putt. This allows me to make the surface exactly level, side to side and back to front. ALSO, these levelers are easily adjustable with an allen wrench, so I can add break to my practice putting anytime I want. These are very easy to install. I placed the 4 levelers, about 10” from each end, on the sides. They have a lip underneath, just put them in place and shoot the 4 provided screws in. Easy Peasy. (If you make your green longer than 8ft, you might want to get 2 sets of these, so you can put another 2 in the middle, it may start to bow when you stand on it if you don’t...at my length of 8ft, it did not). Once installed, you can lay a level on top and adjust the feet, til the surface is nice and level. Step6: Install a lip Not necessary, but you’ll probably want a lip, at least behind the holes, so the balls don’t roll off. This you can kind of use your imagination, a piece of molding, small thin piece of wood, I used something I already had laying around. It’s a piece of pvc that is used for window molding. As you can see, it has a lip on each end, so I cut it in ½ and tapped the lip in between the frame and underlayment. You don’t have to do it that way, you can just tack a strip of whatever you like to the edge w/ some small nails. No wrong way to do this, as long as it’s not interfering with the holes. Step7: Install the putting surface This should be pretty easy, you already did it once before cutting the holes. Clean the underlayment off good before doing it, get all the dust and dirt off. Then lay the carpet down, get it good and lined up with the holes and edges. You may have some little bumps from the carpet being rolled up, I recommend letting it sit a couple days to completely flatten out (you can put some weight on it too, start in the middle and move outwards, leave whatever you are using on for a couple hours). Once you have it laying perfectly flat, you can apply some spray adhesive. I used something that is pretty light duty, in case I ever need to take the carpet up and reposition it, I could. The carpet will actually stay in place by itself, it has a rubber backing and doesn’t shift when you walk on it, even without adhesive. But you will want to be able to vacuum it from time to time and you don’t want the vacuum to pull it up. Starting at one end, fold the carpet over in half. Spray a light coat of the adhesive on the underlayment, and then lay the carpet back down. Then repeat the process on the other end. Then I just patted around the edges and holes with my hands. I let it dry about 30 min, then ran the vacuum over the surface and it stayed in place perfectly. CONGRATULATIONS!! YOUR INDOOR PUTTING GREEN IS COMPLETE!!!! Total Build Time: about 3 hours or so, I did it in the evenings over a couple nights, didn’t keep the exact time. Total Cost: (I already owned all the tools needed except the hole saw and had screws on hand as well) A Couple of Notes Build it where you want to use it if you can. It will be heavy and awkward to move You can adjust this build to whatever size you want to make it. The only tricky part may be making sure the underlayment is perfectly flush if you have to use more than 1 piece. My build was pretty easy, because I just made it the size you buy the piece in. So it’s one, solid, continuous piece of wood This is not a commercial for Big Moss, you can use whatever putting surface you want. But I do recommend them highly. Simply go on their contact page and submit a question about buying a remnant. You will most likely be contacted back that day, by the owner Tony. He is a great dude and great to work with. Prices are going to vary from what I bought depending on what he has on hand and what you want Have them cut the holes for you in the putting carpet. This will save you a lot of trouble and it will no doubt be cleaner than you or I can do it. He did it for a VERY small fee. Well worth it and you can tell him exactly where you want the holes. I bought a tarp to cover mine while i’m not using it. The last putting carpet I had, my cats used as a wrestling mat and a place to puke up hairballs With these dimensions, I can comfortably practice up to a 6ft putt and add break to it if I want. If I think of anything else, I will add to this thread. I am more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Happy Putting! Links to the products I used Hole Saw - Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-4-1-8-in-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1000680193 Furniture Levelers - Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4BUE1P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cups - Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WHDGBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2x4’s Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/2-x-4-x-8-ft-Whitewood-Stud-Common-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Actual/1000074211 Underlayment- Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-2X48X96-PARTICLEBOARD-UNDERLAYMENT/3010167 Big Moss https://www.bigmoss.com/crm.asp?action=contactus Adhesive - Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-General-Performance-Spray-Adhesive-13-5-fl-oz-Bonding-Clear-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1000403657
  5. -Scott -Indiana -Bettinardi Queen B5 -Frontline 4.0 35" or Elevado slant neck 35" (It's a TOSS UP!)
  6. Ctrl C + Ctrl V pretty shameless copy of the spider there
  7. Should note that Lynx sent me a replacement 7 iron, but it still had the same hole in it. I'm not too worried about it, I don't think it will affect anything.
  8. JudgeSmails


  9. STAGE 2 Lynx Prowler VT Irons – Official MGS Forum Review by JudgeSmails Thank you to Lynx and MyGolfSpy for letting me put these irons through the ringer. I had a great time testing, as I always do checking out new equipment. 20 years ago when I started playing golf, I always wanted a set of Lynx irons, as time went by, they kind of fell off the map here in the U.S. They are trying to make a comeback and I welcome it. I’m a 9 handicapper, who considers my iron play the strength of my game. Get me within 150yds and I’m pretty decent (I think). Check out my Stage1 if you want to read up more about my game and golf history, I don’t want to get too repetitive here. My testing was done in 3 phases. An initial range session, a Trackman session and finally being used in play. On to the REVIEW Looks (10 out of 10 points) I like the simple, clean, classic look of these irons. The finish I chose is very shiny in the sun, but there is no glare at address. The Lynx logo is prominently displayed, I think they have a very cool logo, so I was happy to see it on these irons. They definitely have a classic blade look to them, but looking at address, gives you a little confidence that there may be some forgiveness there. Honestly, I’m not sure what could be improved upon here, they look great, and my score represents that. Sound & Feel (7 out of 10 points) Sound wise, the Lynx have a much more “clicky” sound than I’m used to. It’s not a bad sound but I can definitely tell the difference between them and the duller “thud” of my Mizuno Hot Metals. The video below should give you a pretty good idea, I got as close as I could to try and capture it. Feel wise, for me, comes down to 3 words; YOU WILL KNOW. When you hit a good one, YOU WILL KNOW, when you hit a bad one, YOU WILL KNOW. Immediately I could tell whether I hit the sweet spot or not swinging the Lynx Prowler VT’s. When you pure it, it’s a really great feeling. But when you don’t, you will be able to feel it in your hands/forearms. I will give them a decent score here for the feeling of a well struck shot, but take some points off for the slight mishits. Basic Characteristics (14 out of 20 points) RANGE: I was pretty excited when I peeled the plastic off and took these babies out to the range for the first time. I started out hitting the 7 iron. Again, as I mentioned in the feel, the good ones were good, the off center strikes were bad, some of them REAL bad. Had a little trouble getting them up in the air at first, but after a while got more comfortable. I switched to the PW, and had much better success with it. I was able to hit them high and straight, the mis hits were bad, but not as punishing as the 7 iron. I went through the rest of the irons, switching back and forth with similar results. The higher numbers I had much more trouble with, but had pretty good results w/ the lower numbers. I did get a 3 iron with this set, my Mizuno set actually stops at the 5 iron. So I spent some time trying to hit the almighty STINGER with it on the range, using it like a driving iron. Oddly enough, I had some pretty good success doing that, consider how I struggled with a few of the lower lofted irons. I was hitting a fairly consistent low draw from teeing the ball up just above the grass, and putting it a touch back in my stance. TRACKMAN: Here is a pic of the data from my Trackman testing. To avoid wearing myself out, I only compared my current 7iron & PW to the Lynx VT equivalent on the trackman. I also spent a little time w/ the 3 iron at the end. I’m also showing the Spec (including loft) comparison from the 2 sets in the first picture for reference. First off, on the results. EVERYTHING I hit, the Trackman was showing offline to the right. I must have not been setup in the correct spot, or aiming wrong. I am not generally that far offline, especially with a PW. These were not slices, the ball started in that direction. So I will not put a huge emphasis on those numbers, although it does show the Lynx as being further to the right, again, something was up there. The PW comparison is pretty close, had the Lynx at just a yard longer. Take out that terrible first shot w/ the Mizuno, and I imagine they are almost identical. A good showing for sure. The 7i was a little different story, although only 1* stronger, I was getting about 15 yards more distance. I believe this is mainly due to the forgiveness on the off center strikes the Mizuno provides, as opposed to the off center hits w/ the Lynx. To be fair, my first 7i w/ the Lynx was TERRIBLE, as you can see in the graph. If you take that out, the Lynx avg carry would come in at 151, only 7 yards behind the Hot Metals. With both the 7i and the PW, the Lynx was significantly further right offline, but again, everything was going right. The 3iron was as I expected, from my results at the range. Some good ones I’d love to have on a tight par 4, and some mishits that I’d like to forget. (I did remove one shot from the averages on the 3i that was a complete shank, my fault, not the clubs) On-Course Performance (15 out of 30 points) I was able to get several rounds in, using the Lynx Prowler VT irons alongside my Mizunos. Hitting extra balls with the same club in each set. A 7i approach w/ the Lynx, then the same with the Mizuno. I found the results to be pretty similar to the numbers you see above. With the shorter irons, I didn’t see much difference in performance. Maybe not as well on target, but that’s part of getting used to a new set. The biggest difference was with the longer irons. Usually coming up a little shorter, even on the good strikes, of where the Mizzy’s landed, and usually right of target. The bad strikes again, were punished much more severely. It became more evident, that as much as I think I’m a decent ball striker, I still have a lot of room for improvement. That being said, I did hit some beauties with these irons, and when you do hit that sweet spot, you are rewarded. At this point, though, on the course, my shots were longer and more on target w/ the Hot Metals. Miscellaneous (9 out of 10 points) For Misc, I will touch on customer service. Even though these irons were coming from overseas, they got them to us in a timely manner, and exactly as ordered. Also, a couple of us found an odd bored hole in the side of the 7 iron only, customer service jumped in w/ the GolfSpy staff and explained what was going on, and sent a replacement 7 iron (although mine still had the same exact hole, not sure why they didn’t check that). I don’t think it’s anything wrong with the iron, just odd it’s the only one that has it. Also, the fact that they joined the forum and jumped in this thread says a lot about them. That they care about the people using their clubs and want to be involved. I would like to see Lynx put up more shaft options (even as upgrades) than the single KBS shaft. Being able to use the same shaft as in my current set (that I was fit for), could have possibly helped. Play it or Trade it? (10 out of 20 points) TRADE. Don’t take that the wrong way, these are fine irons, but they are not for me. In the hands of a better better ball-striker, these could be fantastic weapons. I am not ready for a players iron, I still need that forgiveness of something in-between SGI and Players. My current irons fit that bill and will stay in the bag. I do love the look, and the feel when you catch one is great, I just couldn’t catch enough of them. I’m going to give it 10 points here though, because much of the fall back of these irons are due to the man swinging them, not the clubheads themselves. The 3 Iron I will probably keep around, if I can get more consistent with that, it will be a real asset on short/tight par 4's. Conclusion These are good players irons, but just not for me. I might be beyond needing Super Game Improvement irons, but I still need forgiveness. That would be where these lack. To be fair, they are probably not meant for me, and in hindsight, I would have been a better fit to test the Black Cats. But I have done my best to put these through the ringer. If you guys have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Thanks for reading. Final Score: 65/100
  10. A HUGE thank you to MGS and Lynx for letting me in on this testing opportunity. Most of you know me as JudgeSmails, but my real name is Scott. I’ve been an active member on the forums for several years and have a done a few product tests in the past. I have lived in NorthEast Indiana my entire life, been married for 20 years and have 3 wonderful daughters (16/13/11). I took up golf after highschool, a little over 20 years ago, and have been in LOVE with the game ever since. In the last 5-6 years, I’ve gotten much more serious about improving and getting better every time I go out. I love that it’s a game you don’t have to be young and athletic, to be competitive in. You can be better at 40 than you were at 30. Current Handicap is about a 9. I don’t keep it officially or use it for any competitions, just for my own purpose to see how I’m improving. My swing tempo, I think is pretty quick, especially with the irons (video below) From 150, I’m pulling either the 9i or 8i….it’s a little between clubs for me. I’m probably grabbing the 9, because I’m much better at taking a hard cut than taking something off (usually ends up fat) Ball flight wise, I try to hit the ball nice and high with my irons. As far as left or right, I’m just trying to hit it straight, I don’t have a usual miss, it could be a little left or right on any given shot. Game Strengths: My iron play, especially 7i down, has always been the strenght of my game. Give me 150 in, and I’m pretty decent. I think I just naturally have always hit down on the ball, the way you are supposed to. If I have a big miss with an iron, it’s probably catching one fat Game Weakness: PUTTING...It has been a real struggle over the past year or so. I’m probably ok at lag putting, it’s the ones you are SUPPOSED to make that I struggle with. Some days I absolutely CANNOT make a 5 foot straight putt. It has really frustrated me, but I’m working on it. CURRENT IRONS Mizuno JPX900 Hot Metal I was fit for these, with Nippon Modus Pro Stiff 2*up I went to our local shop and tried out about 4 different sets of irons. It Came down to these and the Srixon 585. I liked them both the same, but the Mizzy’s were cheaper and my shafts were no charge upgrade. I am testing the LYNX Prowler VT set When I think of Lynx, I think of the Black Cat line. When I started playing golf 2 decades or so ago, I wanted a set of Black Cat’s so damn bad, but just couldn’t afford them. That being said, I actually opted for the Prowler VT. It’s a bit more of a ‘players’ iron than what I’m used to, but I wanted to give them a shot. My set makeup is 3-PW, KBS Tour 90 Stiff (KBS Tour was the only shaft option available). I ordered them 2* upright. I was pretty excited to open the box when they came. I will say, they are a very good looking iron. Very sleek and classy, not too busy on the design, but the Lynx logo is prominently displayed. A few things I noticed; There was nothing in the box stating that they were 2*upright as ordered, I will have to take their word for it on that one, I don’t personally have a way of checking them. Also, about ½ the set had plastic on the heads and the other ½ didn’t. Not sure why this is, they were no doubt all new, but only some of them had the plastic wrapper on them. Also, 7i has a small hole drilled in the side, like where some of the manufacturers are injecting or whatever, this is the only one in the set that had that. Beyond that, they are a very good looking iron, definitely have a thinner sole than my Mizzy’s, as would be expected from more of a players iron. It’s hard to find a lot of information on these irons. Lynx is based in the UK and doesn’t have the presence in the US like they used to. They are trying to make a comeback, and it’s welcome from me, the more competition the better for the average golfer. *(as I’m writing this, I was going to pull up some of the marketing info to see what Lynx says about the technology in these irons, but their website is down, for what it’s worth). I hope you all will stick with me for Stage 2….I’m really looking forward to getting these on the range and seeing if I can make something made for the better player, work for my game. I will also be comparing them side by side with my precious Mizzy Hot Metals…..Can LYNX make a comeback into the golf equipment industry in the US and kick my Mizzy’s out of the bag??? STAY TUNED FOR STAGE 2
  11. Awesome...I can't wait...Thank you MGS and Lynx
  12. Scott - Fort Wayne, IN US 8.6 Mizuno JPX900 Hot Metal Prowler VT
  13. decent looking stuff...but $90 polos, no thank ya I have a bunch of adidas polos that cost me in the 20-30 range and are super light and comfortable
  14. great opportunity, look forward to the results
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