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Posts posted by ~^~

  1. Hit a few shots on the range with the 2/3H set at 17.5*. I would call the trajectory medium-low, just a little higher than at 16*, still a nice boring traj. Still carries around 200 with range balls, not sure on the course with real balls. For me, tends to pull left, but swing correctly was able to go in the right direction. Seemed easier to control than my Cobra BioCell+ Fwy Wood set at 16*. It will take some time to get used to this new hybrid.

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  2. I played with a guy today that lasered every green approach shot, up to 25 yards from the green.  Good player, but I do not rely on yardages from lasers or GPS on shots from 50-60 yards and in. It's all feel for me, and my wedge selection depends on my lie, how much green I have to work with, and what shot trajectory I want to play.  Maybe that's why I have plenty of room for improvement in my pitching!!

    I agree with your approach. Feel is how I play short pitches, focusing on where the ball should land, knowing run out distance for each wedge.

  3. Toney Covey's Recent blog, titled as above, was a revelation for me. My driver SS is 90-100, hasn't changed in years. The M1 is the longest driver I ever hit: avg 230 total with 220 carry, capable of 250-260. My M1-460cc is 9.5* with the stock Fujikura Pro60 Stiff. At neutral settings, I hit it 200, but increasing loft setting 2* got me 30 more yds. Only problem was, increasing loft on an M1 automatically closes the face; the two adjustments are inseparable. The 2* uploft closed the face 4*. No way to prevent it. So, to get 30 more yards of distance, I had to fight a pull hook all day. For 30 more yds? You bet! Then along comes Toney's article. So i moved both weights to the extreme rear, moving CG back. This increased dynamic loft, higher trajectory, more distance -- maybe. But the amazing thing was it eliminated side spin! The club is now a point-and-shoot howitzer. I now step into the tee box with confidence my drives are going to go and finish at least in the general vicinity of where I'm aiming. Apparently rear club weighting is a good thing, and I'm looking for my lead tape. Anybody out there have a similar experience?

  4. Touche! The difference is we aren't playing an open. I don't dislike it either. Honestly I thought it was cool that I hit 3 well planned and executed shots on 13 only to make bogey the other day. It makes my 78 look way better than it reads. I've been kicking butt elsewhere. I'd love the courses that jmike and Dave are describing.

    Sent from my VS986 using MyGolfSpy mobile app

    So you executed your strategy, and still made bogey. Guess Bobby Jones was right. That 5 1/2 inches between the ears can be treacherous!🤔
  5. Just got the Cobra King F6 Hybrid 2/3. With Matrix Ozik Altus HQ4 stock shaft. Goes from 16 - 19*. Seems to fly low and very straight set at 16* with my shallow swing. My driver SS is 90-95 avg, and the 2H at 16* goes about 200. Only played 18 holes with it. I reset it for 17.5*. Will update later.

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  6. http://www.mygolfspy.com/pro-tip-taylormade-m1-driver/


    Read and study the graphs. Moving the frontweights left and right affects draw/fade flight, not CG. Rear CG increases dynamic loft with shaft flex at impact. More loft = more control, more forgiveness, more distance, generally.


    Moving the front weights around in the front track does not affect CG movement to the rear. CG forward can be beneficial if you don't need forgiveness, have a high SS, and hit down with the driver, not up. For the majority of golfers, rear CG will result in improved distance and control, due to increased loft. Some manufacturers believe rear CG is key, like Ping G30.

  7. By removing the front weights, You effectively moved the CG towards the rear, like the M2, but not as much rearwards. Rear CG improves forgiveness, makes it easier to square the club, higher launch. See Toney Covey's blog How to Make Your M1 More Forgiving. It works for some golfers. Good to hear it worked for you. Me, too!

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