Steve S

Take your 44 inch putter and add a 2" inch extension. You may not be able to save the grip since it's been on the club awhile. After that buy a package of lead tape or self adhesive tire weights from Harbor Freight. Add weight until it feels right to you. Play with it for a few rounds. Then if you want to get a new putter contact Golfworks in ohio. They have a nice line of putter heads. If you see something you like call them. They are pretty good at building whatever you want and it won't cost you $400 for a new putter.

I replaced 3, 4 and 5 iron with hybrids. Then last year I replaced 6 thru pitching wedge with hybrids. In 2 years my index went from 12 to 9.

As far as I can tell from my research swing weight was a way to quantify feel. Like all human measurements trying to categorize something not easy to describe it's imperfect but helps a to lead to a comparison for some folks. From a purely physics stand point the ideal club would be a shaft and grip of no mass and infinite stiffness and all the weight in the head. That would allow you to swing the club as fast as possible to generate the most force on the golf ball. I've tried to build clubs with the lightest, stiffest shafts available and found that it's pretty hard to find shafts that are light enough and still very stiff. The positive is that when doing this I was able to get higher club head speeds without sacrificing knowing where the club head was or feel. I was also able to maintain launch conditions by using heads with "conventional" lofts (ex. 7 iron at 35 degrees). I was also able to add weight to the clubs without loss of club speed up to a certain point. I encourage folks to try this. It's amazing how much weight you can add before you start slowing down.

I agree. I think that if your swing is wildly erratic you need lessons first. Until you have a relatively repeatable swing a fitting is a waste of time and money.

Yeah but he was referring to how the manufacturers categorize their shafts. My Project X driver shaft is called a mid launch, mid spin shaft.

" I look at it this way, in MGS testing the Kirkland V3 is a good 10 yds shorter than Maxfli Tours. My 81 yr old pard actually hits the V3 a little longer than MT's." It may be because he can't hit the MT's with enough spin to keep them in the air. The V3's spin a lot and will be shorter for a higher swing speed player but will actually help a sub 85mph player get more carry. So you are correct, we haven't seen the all of the impact of this change, yet. And I'll bet that there will be some of the DTC guys out of Taiwan, Korea, China and Viet Nam that will keep producing the old balls. The Japanese market has a number of clubs that sell well there that are technically non-conforming by USGA standards.

Welcome to my world. I started playing again in 2003(after a long absence) because I was too old to play(and compete) at baseball/softball and basketball. Started out in 2003 as a 25 handicap and have worked my way down to 8-9. Still playing most courses from the "whites". Would like to maintain that for another couple years before moving full time to the golds. If this rule actually results in my swing losing 10-15 yards in 2030 then I'll be playing par 3 courses. Can't see me playing with my golf friends(most of whom are 20-30 years younger than me) when I might have to be playing from tees that are 50 yards ahead of them.(junior tees).

Your doing a great thing for your dad. I hope he brings his "typical" swing. One of things I always wanted to try was to go for a fitting 3 or 4 times on different days just to see if the "optimum" club selection would change depending on the day, the fitter, my swing, etc. I'm not independently wealthy so it'll have to be a dream for now.

Volvik already makes a non conforming version of it's balls. it's called the Magma. It's smaller and slightly heavier than a 'legal' ball. Don't see why manufacturers wouldn't continue to make their current balls while developing one ball for the pros. They could still sell it to the public albeit a higher price if you want to "play the ball the pros use."

He might be hitting the 3's better than the 4's because the 4's are "de-lofted". Ping has recognized that for seniors with slower swing speeds the "game improvement" de-loft irons aren't always the best choice for slower swingers. My driver swing is 88-92 and my handicap went from a 12 to 8 when I went from GI irons to standard "pro loft" hybrid irons. My 7 iron is 35 degrees.

Glad I could help. It's not genius. Many of the pros are going with 44 inch drivers to improve control. And I find it's better than cutting down the shaft. I only do it when I lose my driver. Soon as I'm back on track I'm back to 46 inch.

No three wood is a not a problem. Just choke down 2-4 inches on the driver and try that.

Doesn't everyone experience this? My fault is the same..trying to kill the driver. I try a couple things, not all at the same time. First, I try the Tommy Armour advice. Count 1, 2, pause in your backswing and fire on 3. Usually keeps me from overswinging. Another thing to try is you are hitting your 3 wood well off the tee is choke down on your driver 2-3 inches to approximate the same length as your 3 wood. I did that last week and the driver started going straighter and farther. Then gradually work your way back to full length.

The only youtube videos I watch are from Dr Kwon. Much of golf instruction is biomechanically inefficient or just plain incorrect. Kwon has years of research and study using hi-speed camera analysis and studied human biomechanics. It must work since he's made himself into a plus handicap golfer.