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Xstiffshafts

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Everything posted by Xstiffshafts

  1. Right... clearly not a torch job. I went with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown, then a cold bluing on top of that, then sealed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Pic of original finish I think. http://s249.photobucket.com/user/B0nZ69/media/newport/DSC05357.jpg.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. Yeah man I have a blasting cabinet. And occasionally will blast b4 heating if I'm going for a muted, satin finish. Though the idea on the latest finish was to try to replicate (as closely as possible) the oilcan finish that this was originally finished in. I don't have a plating setup or bluing tank, so it's been a lot of trial and error to try to get that mix of blues and browns that was Cameron's best finish imo. Anyway it's intentionally uneven, at least the most recent post is. Good looking out on the suggestion tho. Thanks man! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. This is as close as I can get to the original finish on the old school Cameron oilcan classics. This was in real rough shape when I picked it up, but I only have one pic from then, unfortunately.
  5. *pats self on back* Seriously though, Great looking refurbs, RB7! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. One of my favorite all time heads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. Imo the Wedge vs putter is an apples/oranges comparison. Putting is and should be generally pretty low impact- that is, the collision between ball and club is, well it's hardly even a collision. Contrasted against the strike that occurs on a full wedge swing... I've worn the faces of brand new vokeys down in a summer before. I was playing daily, but still, repeated impact takes a toll. Paint will chip scuff and look like hell after a few strikes - full swings are violent. I have a vokey that I did in polymer and a Callaway 3 iron. Neither finish lasted through impact with more than 4 balls. I'll find pics and post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. I've always wondered how well that stuff works Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. Should have it or a reasonable equivalent at Home Depot/Lowe's/walmart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. If the finish is painted then tal-strip or equivalent will work. If it's plated, pvd, etc... you're gonna want to blast or sand the existing finish off. The group can prob help with a little more detail... what kind of putter, or maybe a pic and someone will be able to chime in with something useful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. That's the color it should've been finished in originally. Hope Mr Rife is taking notes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. Yeah in some form or fashion. Either strip the pvd/plating and black oxide or blast followed by black polymer. Here's my gamer that I just finished in black oxide. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. Yeah I have been preheating at the temp I cure at, which is about 315°-320°. I usually preheat for approximately 7-8 mins to get the solvents to evaporate when they hit the metal and leave the pigment behind. I haven't been thinning the product I use (which cures at ~315° for about an hour) and is tougher than nails once it cures. It's a firearms coating that I've seen others use successfully... I'll PM you the name and see what you'd suggest on thinning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. Thx RB7, your knowledge is always appreciated. You see the same problem here just to a lesser extent? I've been experimenting with different techniques. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. The original insert. Was thinking about torching Bronze, but I like the extreme contrast of black and silver Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  16. Here's my first real stab at a black polymer finish on a putter that I give a damn about. The polymer kind of "pebbled" which I'm not in love with, I'd rather it be flat or smooth, but otherwise it looks great. Going to keep after it until I get it perfect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  17. I've found that when doing the cherry dots on Camerons, it's best to reallllllly thin the paints either in the paint mix, or by swabbing the dot with a q-tip soaked in isopropyl alcohol. The first drop should rush to the edges of the dot and then fill in from there with additional drops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  18. Not totally sure, tamiya is quality stuff and should be a good starting point. RB7 has done some great looking driver work and may have some insight to the best option for trying to clean up paint chipping on the M2 crown. I have a '17 M2 that has some nasty chipping along the line where the face meets the crown. I think I'm going to read up on DIY spray jobs and maybe go all black on it. Expand the horizons. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  19. Here are a few that I haven't gotten posted yet Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  20. I don't know. I highly doubt tal strip will strip anything but paint. In order to refinish, you want to try to get to raw metal or as close as possible. The face can take being sanded, just go easy on it - the goal is to remove the finish, not the texture of the milling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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