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Posts posted by Xstiffshafts

  1. Here are a couple of the things I've been working on.


    I'm thinking about getting an insert cut for this N2 detour out of GSS or 303 and creating the "bore thru insert look"




    Also - I shot at the range with a buddy last night. He's seen many of my putters and we decided to torch the chamber/Cylinder on his judge public defender. It was nerve wracking. Can anyone say residual lead/carbon/gunpowder





    Select 2.6 torched with pvd coating left on.





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  2. You should be able to hand sand many of the dings out - don't be discouraged if you sand the s*** out of it with 120 and it doesn't look like a night/day diff. It'll continue to look better and better as you progress to the higher grits and polish.


    Of course there are some doozies in every project putter that sanding just won't help. I like to hit these with a hand file before I even start sanding. You can get a solid 4-Way Bastard Mill file with a comfortable handle for like


    What are your plans for this putter? Torch/black oxide/restore to original? Either way we need to call attn to the insert. Can you pop it out? There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show guys popping odyssey inserts. If it's Cameron style with back screws, that makes it even easier.



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  3. Tig welding rig, oxy-acetylene torch outfit, and a rotating flatscreen mount (bought a new tv for the fam, need to mount my old one on the wall of my workshop/garage)



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    I forgot to mention, the great looking Sentio flatstick that was at my porch friday morning. Santa may have dropped it off, by the time I got to the door, whoever knocked was gone. ;)

  4. I saw this on eBay - it looks good with the plumber neck!



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    Yeah, I bought a few of them on eBay. That seller is top notch. I've been buying putter shafts, little things like that plumber neck m, etc.. from him all year. One of my favorite dudes in the parts market. This conversion is a little weird... I'm sure it's because I'm using it with a .355 tip instead of on a .270 mallet. It wants to set up closed due to the angle of the post. Had to shave about a quarter inch off that hosel post on the futura to get it right.



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  5. This was a pleasant surprise... I just got this Cameron Circa 62 #1 for super cheap. By the pics, it didn't look beaten up, but I thought I would need to strip it bare and torch it.




    Once it arrived, it was in better condition than I thought - a little steel wool, polish, and black paint fill later, I think I'll play this one as is for awhile.





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    Excellent! That's awesome!



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  6. So that body is stainless steel that was originally the same color as every "off the rack" Cameron - that tour blasted satin grey. Got that color by heating/torching.


    For the ping project, I would go to harbor freight or northern tool and check out their polishing compounds. I bet there's a low-shine abrasive compound that'll do the trick. Emery comes to mind as a compound that has a good abrasive profile, but I think it will give you a little more shine than you're looking for.



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  7. Well I was wanting to do it shiny because I planned on making it a gift for a buddy from work who is a huge Notre Dame fan and the putter got their color scheme. Maybe instead of shining it up I can try and give it a full shine instead. The dead center really isn't a putter that would look too good, that why it didn't sell very well. Either way you are probably right about the dead center being an easier starting point.


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  8. Quite frankly, for a first attempt, you may be better off taking a run at the dead center. It's carbon steel iirc, and opens up a wide range of refinishing possibilities... you can torch or give black oxide/gun blue a try. Carbon has a huge range of colors when you torch it. Goes from straw, to bronze, some reds, to purple, to an awesome blue, before hitting the end of the spectrum and going almost back.


    I may go p/u a dead center tomorrow, would be fun project to have on the shelf.



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  9. I don't remember what those dead center heads are made from... either way, step one is to sand/file all of the dents and dings out. So I would start hand standing with 120 grit paper, move up to 400 grit paper, then do a wet sand with 1000, then do a dry sand with 2000. Acetone washes in between grit interval helps clear for a sanding debris and allows you to work on a clean work piece with each grit step. After you get done with your 2000 grit dry sand you'll be ready to polish.



    PS buy some good nitrile gloves something that has a decent mil thickness. I like the boxes of black venoms... you can get them at Walmart or Lowes or Home Depot they're like $10 for a box of 50



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