RickyBobby_PR

At your handicap your best and most effective road is to improve the swing first. Speed training with a swing that’s not optimal is going to lead to worse results with the swing. I’ve also seen two trusted instructors touch on this on another forum

always go to the extreme first and then move back from there. So if trying to fix a right ball flight set it in the most draw setting possible.

You are correct. It was reading confusing as you would say back to p1. Not many proper reference going back to p1 or use it as a description for drills. p2 is club shaft parallel to ground. P3 is lead arm parallel to the ground. P3 would be above hip height. It’s basically a 1/2 swing

Can you explain what you are considering p1? What you are describing is kind of confusing especially the way you are describing step 3

These posts are correct. Ive been to two different shaft manufacturers for a visit. Both measure differently. Whenever a discussion about torque or flex comes up I regret not videoing swings of me or those I was with when trying to swing a shaft that measured 2.1 for torque and was labeled stiff flex and even when the slowest guy in the group swung it the shaft looked like a noodle.

Flipping from that position is interesting. Possibly arms getting disconnected from the chest. Try putting a roll of TP between the forearms or if you have a small ball like the tour striker and feel arms and chest moving as one

Sounds like you might be pulling your arms up or bending elbows with some changes in your levels. Try chipping with only weight on your lead leg and your trail foot just on the tips of the toes for balance.

For most people yes, manufacturers pick shafts for their matrix that will fit a wide variety of golfers. Performance of a shaft has nothing to do with the cost. Some no upcharge shafts are actually premium shafts that shaft manufactures want to get into people’s hands and some with club manufacturers to work out a deal to make them no upcharge. Rogue white, tensei pro shafts in a couple manufacturers. Not always. We can use the made for ventus and the ventus velocore shafts as an example. Several here have been fit by TM and had the made for shaft outperform the velocore version. Again to the bolded part price is irrelevant to determining performance. And pretty much every premium shaft falls between $300-375. Not that many premium shafts over $375. The point is that people can notice a difference even without a tour feel in their game and a some have gone thru good fittings and a noticeable difference can be felt. Regardless of price or materials a cheap shaft can be better for some golfers over an expensive. The only bad shaft is the one that doesn’t fit the golfer

Will disagree based on fittings posted here and elsewhere with people seeing with 100mph and less see better results from a premium shaft compared to no upcharge shafts.

No. Because it’s all dependent on how a person swings as to what happens with the ball flight. I’ve seen a hzrdus black get launched high and I’ve seen them spin high because of where contact on the face occurs. How and when one releases will have a bigger impact than what the shaft manufactures label a shaft as. Theres enough info out there from respected fitters and other experts. Wishon, Tuttleman, Howard jones that debunk a lot of golf myths that just won’t die. Personal example IZ spun and launched lower for me than the AD DI a little info from Tom Wishon. Shaft Myth #4 – The shaft is a key element for the amount of backspin imparted on a shot That can be true. . . but only if you are a golfer who unhinges your wrist-**** angle late in the downswing and you have a clubhead speed north of 100 mph with the driver. If you are a golfer with a late release and a clubhead speed in the area of 85mph, the shaft is only going to have a small effect on backspin. And if you are a golfer with an early release, no matter what your clubhead speed, the amount of backspin you put on the shot is purely going to be determined by your clubhead speed, your angle of attack into the ball, the loft of your driver and where on the face you made contact with the ball. It is very common for companies to market shafts as having spin characteristics – “low, medium or high spin” in their design. The problem is that it takes a very specific type of swing characteristic to even allow the shaft to have any effect whatsoever on the amount of spin imparted on the shot. That swing move is when you unhinge your wrist-**** angle to release the club during the downswing. In short, the later you hold onto the wrist-**** angle on the downswing, and the higher your clubhead speed, the more the shaft could have an effect on the backspin of the shot. Here’s why, and here’s how shafts may or may not have a bearing on the amount of spin on a shot. First of all, keep in mind that only three things determine the amount of backspin on a shot – clubhead speed, the dynamic loft on the clubface at the point of impact, and the point of impact in relation to the center of gravity of the clubhead. (Angle of attack is a part of the dynamic loft) The higher the clubhead speed, the higher will be the spin for any given loft angle, the higher the loft on the clubhead at the moment of impact, and the lower the point of impact in relation to the CG, the greater will be the amount of backspin. Vice versa applies to these things for less spin. But let’s talk about how the swing gets involved in all of this to be able to potentially interact with the club to have an effect on spin. Let’s say we’ve all made our backswing and we have the club positioned at the top, ready to swing down to the ball. From the moment the club starts down, for as long as we retain and hold our wrist-**** angle between our arms and the shaft, the arms and the club are accelerating at the same rate and the arms and club are both moving at the same velocity. The split-second we start to unhinge the wrist-**** angle, the arms begin to slow down while the club begins to accelerate to a higher velocity. Because the arms are slowing down while holding on to the club, the faster moving clubhead starts to push against the shaft that is being held back by the hands and the shaft begins to flex forward. The more flexible the design of the shaft and/or the more tip flexible the design of the shaft, the more the shaft could flex forward at impact and from it, have more of an effect on launch angle, trajectory and spin. If the golfer happens to hold the wrist-**** angle until very late in the downswing, the forward flexing of the shaft happens right when the clubhead meets the ball. If the shaft comes to impact flexed forward, this forward curve of the shaft increases the loft on the clubhead at impact – which in turn increases the launch angle AND increases the amount of backspin put on the shot. When shaft companies say this or that shaft is a “low spin design”, what they mean is that the shaft is designed to either be stiffer overall, or, stiffer in the tip section of the shaft. Stiffer shaft means less forward bending before impact, which means less of a loft increase at impact on the clubhead. . . but ONLY for a player with a later to very late unhinging of the wrist-**** angle on the downswing. On the other hand, if the golfer unhinges the wrist-**** angle early on the downswing, all this forward flexing of the shaft happens well before impact. Thus for the early release golfer, by the time the clubhead gets to the ball, the shaft will have had time to flex back to a virtual straight position. That’s why for early release golfers, the shaft cannot have any additional effect on the dynamic loft on the clubhead and the amount of spin on the shot.

The mid is a low-mid launch and low-mid spin. With that type of profile a blue profile or something with a higher balance point like an Aldila rogue may be the closest type of shaft. But even then it’s going to come down to how the shaft feels for you and how that affects your swing. We can use the graphite design shafts as an example. They are all built of the Diamana blueboard profile, but based on the materials used and how much of whatever is used is placed on different parts of the shaft, all the GD shafts have a different feel despite the same overall profile. If you are in the market for something new your two best options are find a reputable fitter that has a large variety of shafts or go a pgasuoerstore, 2ndswing, manufacturer demo day and do some testing

The bolded part makes me laugh too or when they lean on it to see how much it bends and where and then decide on that. Neither are a good test of anything other than showing how little one knows about shafts. This also goes to show it’s not the shaft itself that causes launch and spin and confirms what tests Callaway and other did that shafts from “ladies” flex up to the xxx stiff at all swing speeds launch and spin the same and it’s about how they work for the golfer Anofher Interesting aspect is that he’s using 4° of torque so even though there’s no standard for torque goes to show that the need for low torque is just another things people misunderstand or over think

Premium shaft doesn’t guarantee better results. The best option is the one that fits your swing A little something from Tom Wishon. Shaft Myth #6 – The more expensive a shaft, the better its quality and the better it performs There are few things in the golf industry that have become as much of a sore spot with me as this matter of shafts that cost $100, $200, $300 and even more. Shoot, I remember when we all thought a $40 shaft was expensive! What’s even worse are the uninformed golfers who see these $100 – $300 shafts and automatically form the opinion that if it costs that much, it has to be a really good shaft. You want to know what the definition of a “good shaft” is? A good shaft is any shaft that has been very accurately matched for its weight, overall stiffness, bend profile, weight distribution and torque to a golfer’s clubhead speed, transition force, downswing tempo, wrist-**** release, strength and sense of feel. That’s the definition of a “good shaft” and it has absolutely nothing to do with brand, model or price. There are 5 different specifications that determine the performance differences between shafts. 1) mass (weight); 2) overall stiffness (flex); 3) bend profile (distribution of the stiffness over the length of the shaft); 4) weight distribution (balance point); 5) torsional stiffness (torque). Two of these, the weight and the torque, are definitely related to the cost of the shaft. The lighter the weight and the lower the torque of a shaft, the more expensive the shaft will be to make. In other words, if you want to make a very stiff 45 gram shaft with less than 3? of torque, that shaft is going to cost a lot more money to make than a 65 gram softer flex shaft with 5? of torque. . . but not $100 to $300 by any means. The other three shaft design elements, a shaft’s overall stiffness, bend profile and balance point, are not even close to being as price sensitive as the weight and torque. Standard modulus (low cost) graphite raw materials can be used to make any flex, bend profile or balance point from soft L to very stiff X. Yes, many of the high dollar shafts are actually made with more expensive raw composite materials. But they don’t need to be made with such expensive materials to achieve their weight, flex, bend profile, balance point and torque. In my career I have measured the specifications of literally thousands of different shafts, and from my experience, I have yet to see a $100 to $300 shaft that could not be duplicated for weight, flex, bend profile, balance point and torque and sold at a normal profit in the industry for an aftermarket price of $25 to $50.

The concept of hitting up on the ball is a bad one and will lead to more issues than fixing any. A proper sequenced swing with good pressure shift and proper wrist movements will produce the proper aoa which will be somewhere between and 0-3°. Trying to hit up tends to lead to too much side bend and getting too far from the inside. In the first image both the one on the left and right have an improper turn. Not sure what you were doing on the left but just like the right you didn’t turn your hips. Your left knee went forward and you had some extension of the trial leg. Your left hip came out instead of your right hip going back. This is a false turn

Prov1 is a fine ball for the swing speed as is a prov1x. Look at the mgs ball test I use both prov1 and prov1x

Post the video. It looks like your concept of how to turn is way off

When the ball is on the green you can let it play, but when it comes to overhanging putts there is a different rule. One has to make a reasonable walk to the ball and then when you get there one has 10 seconds. After 10 seconds if the ball hasn’t fallen into the hole then per the rule it’s deemed to no longer be in motion, one can’t wait all day or slow walk to the hole. That used to be the rule awhile ago and was changed to 10 seconds. The second situation is a different rule and believe that situation falls under rule 9.3

Not really. The rule says after 10 seconds it’s no longer a ball in motion so one isn’t hitting a ball in motion at that point.

So you think the oems are going to put their local fitter at mgs hq to do free fittings. Dont see that happening

Simple, put the weight where you want to test, hit a few balls 3-5 so that you don’t adjust the swing to try and make the setup work. Move it somewhere else and repeat. This is the same way a fitter would go about it. Find what works for your swing and then leave it alone.

Who is paying for the fitters time to fit each person? Or anyone interested in a certain club can get fit for that club or if they want to find the best one out of a group if drivers they can go get fit and see what works for them. I have never based any decision off the most wanted test for any club and other than some mindless reading it provides no value to me or my decision making process because there’s nobody doing testing that has my swing, or anyone else’s swing regardless of the handicap and swing speed match mine or not

If his coach understands trackman than it probably won’t be too bad, not sure how much his coach is up to speed on different shaft characteristics, which is where an actual fitter is better, because a good fitter is going to under the shaft matrix they have, the design of each shaft and there the stiffness is, the profile and how to change shafts based on the customers feedback. Club champion can be hit or miss with the fitter, and if the customer doesn’t communicate their, budget, their goals, etc the fitter is going to do his/her own thing and also push after market products. Swingweight will work itself out. If the fitter can’t the shaft weight and length right then swingweight will be what it is and whatever that value is really doesn’t matter. How is his coach going to fit him? does his coach have fittings carts from manufacturers?

The -2° aoa is a problem if there is also a path and face to path issue and if it leads to lower on the face contact. Dynamic loft is another thing to look at. Delofting the driver isn’t the best thing for amateurs. a number like aoa or spin or launch by itself doesn’t mean much. 0 to +2-3° aoa is what more than enough. Path 1-3° either in to out or out to in is optimal. It just needs to be consistent. Most amateurs have a path that’s more 4+ either way and not consistent from one direction.

Pros aren’t spraying the ball like us amatuers. They don’t have a consistent two way miss like some amateurs do. They do have a wide dispersion pattern. It’s in the 65-70 yard range. Pros know the more speed the more trouble for control. Bryson’s biggest complaint is that heads can’t keep up with his top end on course speed. Finau can reach 200mph ball speed but plays at 180ish. the more aoa one has the more inside a path can get and when you start reaching the +5° it can cause issues. Rory has been plagued in his career with getting stuck, having a +5° is part of that reason. Pros are hitting between -1 to +1-2° aoa, and most favor a fade with driver because this helps them control the flight and their miss

You go to a nice restaurant you dress up, you go to mcd’s you wear what you want. you go to a wedding you dress appropriately, you go to a house party you dress down, unless it’s a nice house party celebrating some event or a semi formal gathering then you dress appropriately. There are trends that come and go, mock turtlenecks were allowed when Tiger made them famous, it didn’t detract from the dress code and allowed for new trends to be allowed at some courses, some courses where Tiger played wouldn’t allow them at a non tour event. hoodies and joggers are cool and I wear them at times where allowed, but there is still a resemblance of a dress code and they aren’t the joggers worn at a gym. Dress for the occasion and the location.