Rtracymog

Yeah, baby!!!! It's on!
What Player Will Have the Most Points:  Scottie Sheffler
What Player Will secure the Clinching Point on Sunday: Xander Shauffele (Souflee? Shikaka? White Devil?)


 
Thanks to Titleist and @Golfspy_CG2 for setting this up!  

dont sweat the swing weight. Depending of the OEM the older head may actually be heavier than the newer models. 
Titliest imo  does not seem to be in the category but Ive been wrong only a 1000 other times, just ask mrs mcgolf.
Yes swing weight can be impacted by the heavier grip. But not so much it will throw you off. 
 

After two on-course practice sessions with the irons I got out for another regular round yesterday. This was a 'get ready' outing with the guys I'll be playing in the league team cup with next weekend. So it was set up as a 2-man best ball, with 12 players, handicaps applied. For the 12-man field, handicaps ranged from 3 to 16. After some minor shuffling of players for late drop/adds my partner wound up being one of my B-flight buddies, so for the day I was getting 15 strokes on my 13.1 index, and my partner 14 strokes on his 11.8. 
On the range, I got some compliments and questions regarding the new irons. Talked about how Titleist has changed their mindset about blending sets, and made the topline/setup look similar all the way through the lineup. I also admitted that I wasn't quite all the way familiar with the irons, so I wasn't sure about what I was going to get. Getting ready on the range, I told myself to try not to get bogged down with too many swing thoughts, so most of the day I kept it to a feel though of: 'turn my chest through the ball on the plane of the shaft at setup'.
And I went out and did this: (some of you may have already seen this result in the Virtual Championship Tour weekly leader board)

I don't know if it was that simple swing thought, finally having a good feel for these clubs, or a combination of both, but I had my best round of the year on what is typiclly a really tough course. Tampa Palms has narrow, tree lined fairways, and typically fast greens. Also, if you get too far off the intended line of play, there are hazards and trees that will force you to play either a recovery shot or a high risk play. Of note, the app only had the blue or white tees as options. The course setup  includes a Blue/White split tee my partner and I played at 6200 yards with a 70.1 / 130 rating and slope. With the strokes, that was a net 62 on my own ball. My partner played well on a few of my bogey holes and we wound up carding net 56 for the partnership. Yes, that won.
This was my best round of the year by a long way, and by 7 strokes the best 'league' round I posted for the season. The stats were 11/14 FIR, 10/18 GIR and 30 putts. The triple bogey 8 on the 16th hole was an in-between yardage shot to a semi-island green, that was just a yard short on carry and wound up hitting the support pilings and in the hazard. 
Otherwise, it was amazing to see what a difference it made to be playing these irons from the fairways. It took me a few holes to get there, but once I had the feel together, I got on a really good roll.
Ball flight was high and straight with the irons. I had my share of mis-hits, but the penalty on those was really minor. I thought I had left one 4H tee shot high and fadey, but it seemed like it only cost me one club's worth of distance on the approach. Two of the par 3s were playing at 170-175 yards, which for me is the 5-iron, and not my favorite club or yardage in the past. The first of those was the ninth hole, where I got a rediculously lucky break. I hit a high fade that was well off the green, but hit the edge of the cart path and ricocheted straight left onto the green leaving me a 5 foot birdie putt. The important part there isn't the lucky bounce, but the fact the mis-hit still carried to green level.
The second 5-iron par 3 proved Titleist means what they say with regard to the sole design and turf interaction. I came through that ball a little heavy, and right off the club I said "that was fat, it'll have to go some". That shot still carried easily on to the green. 
There might have been some light wind factoring into it, but finally hitting these irons solid, it looks like I'll have to adjust my target yardages up about 5 yards or 1/2 a club. (That might also mean a return visit to Joe the fitter to order a gap wedge). Ball flight is nice and high, and on these well kept greens I was getting hit and stop with the short irons, and about 1-2 yards of roll out from the longer irons. It could be the improved forgiveness factor of the new T200 but these seem ever so slightly less 'workable' than their original release predecessors. That said, with the level of confidence I gained through this round, I was able to pull of the dreaded (for me anyway) intentional fade with the hybrid. 
I'll be back out on the course this week a time or two for sure to practice before our 2-day Team Cup at the Hammock Beach resort next weekend.
Cheers all

Those look sweet!

Latest build for myself. Miura MC-502 (4-PW) irons and Vokey SM9 wedges. KBS Tour Custom Black 120 Stiff shafts, Golf Price MCC Plus4 grips. Finished off with some very nice BB&F Co ferrules. First simulator session with the tonight so crossing my fingers they're awesome!

Indoor and outdoor fittings will always be a pro / con discussion.
folks that like outdoors as RB posted is I want to see ball flight, or I can hit off only grass. etc.
folks that like to be indoors like environmental controlled conditions and data. 
Ive done both or should I say I have conducted both and a hybrid of both hitting indoors to an outdoor setting.
In every case a golfer needs to take the good with the bad. for instance, hitting off grass, The typical response is I can only hit off grass as that is more realistic. Granted. So am I fitting you to hit out of divots at this particular temp, wind condition, turf etc or do we to complete fitting through the year?  See where this can go. 
Hitting off mats. Depending on the matt type the golfer can be given false positives  which does not help the golfer. Its a great selling tool and but deceiving and not a good business practice.  There are mats that can come very close to mimicking grass with hitting fat, the way the ball comes off the face etc. 
This could go on and on, the bottom line is the process the fitter uses to determine best clubs for your game and goals and whether or not you are comfortable performing the fitting in that environment

Happy with my current set up, so I didn’t sign up for this one, but from everything that I’ve heard, the testers are in for a treat! Congrats Testers!

Happy with my current set up, so I didn’t sign up for this one, but from everything that I’ve heard, the testers are in for a treat! Congrats Testers!

Happy with my current set up, so I didn’t sign up for this one, but from everything that I’ve heard, the testers are in for a treat! Congrats Testers!

Happy with my current set up, so I didn’t sign up for this one, but from everything that I’ve heard, the testers are in for a treat! Congrats Testers!

Happy with my current set up, so I didn’t sign up for this one, but from everything that I’ve heard, the testers are in for a treat! Congrats Testers!

I have a 42” belt so guess it turns just that little bit slower, and therefore easier to not burn the ferrule.
But, yes, I do also have an arm on the machine (Golf Mechanix shaft cutter and ferrule machine) that you can rest the club in. Only modification is that I put some felt in the guides as I found it left marks on steel shafts.
Technique wise:
1) You need to keep the ferrule turnng at all times. I use the club head as a leaver to rotate the club at a constant rotation.
2) I press in a little bit more firmly at the beginning to get the ferrule down flush to the size of the hosel.
3) Finally I’ll back the ferrule off so that it’s just ever so slightly touching the belt and rotate the club a little quicker. This will usually make the ferrule quite a bit smoother, like a finer sandpaper sort of thing.
4) Finally use acetone up and down the ferrule, 90º opposed to the way the belt would have been running. This will give the ferrule that high-gloss finish. I use a soft cloth and get it wet and then brush it against the ferrule, with basically no pressure at all. Like you’re lightly dusting it.
You need to let them set for a few seconds for the plastic to re-harden. In the final club cleanup phase I’ll use another soft cloth and rotate the ferrule in it again.
After all that they look significantly better than any ferrule I’ve seen on an OEM finished product.
Hope that helps.

Torden Golf -- I'm pretty impressed with how nice the ferrules look on your set.  I make clubs and struggle to finsih the ferrules, so much so, that I leave them unfinished much of the time.  I use a 32" in belt sander with a linen belt but is takes the ferrule down way too fast, so I just leave them unturned.  A 42" inch belt sander is said to be better for this job but is hard to find, except for Maltby Golf Works, and even then they are expensive as heck for a hobbiest.  Oh well, I just wanted to say how impressed I was with your job.

My shaft extractor from GolfWorks just arrived, so even though it's 100+ in the garage, looks like I'll be starting on the rebuild of my wife's irons this week.  She's currently in a set of 2016 (or 2017?) Cobra ForgedTecs that used to be mine that I installed (badly) on Recoil 95 F3 shafts.  She hits them great most of the time, but a couple of them were very poorly built and need to be redone, and 1-2 of them twisted and cured before I noticed, so they do not play consistently from club to club (gapping / shot shape / etc.).  She's also a HUGE Captain America fan and I got her the Steve Rogers ferrules from BB&F to put on them, so they should look cool too (at least to her, which all that matters).

I watch the youtube channel all the time and learn a lot! No surprise here! Congrats @McGolf to you and Robin!

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

I did this for my kids a few months back. For refurb on the irons, give them a good scrub and then grab metal polish and give them a good rub down. As for cutting them down to length, a pipe cutter will work nicely (assuming you are working with steel shafts). Make sure to buy JR sized grips!
For the cut down, I would give them a little room to grow, otherwise you will be throwing new shafts on the heads every other year. 

Items you will need, 
Grips (again JR size), Grip Tape, mineral spirits OR lighter fluid, Pipe cutter, vise, club grip for vise (if you don't have one or can't find one a rubber glove will suffice). 
Have fun!

Very nice, love the laser, I may have to add one to my setup.  I have a extra laser or two laying around.  

I've been working on minor improvements in my mobile regripping station.   I was inspired by AJ on his Mobile Clubmaker YouTube channel on making an easy club regripping station.  Here in Key West, we do not have basements or a lot of extra space for a club making workshop.  I needed something portable that could be easily stored away when I wasn't using it and somewhat simple.  So I took AJ's initial concept and ran with it.  

It's a simple design.  It's a 2x6 with a 2x2 screwed in at the end where the catch tray bracket is attached.  AJ's initial design had a board at the end that you put against the wall when regripping.  My change was 2x2 edge catches against the countertop and prevents the station from moving when sliding on the new grip.  The edge catch seemed a little more stable and could be used in more situations.  Just beyond the clamping device is a moving bracket (for different club lengths) that supports the club head and helps align the club face straight up and down.  I have two latches connecting the slide to the base 2x6 to lock everything for easy storage.

When I ready to regrip my clubs, I catch the 2x2 on the edge, level (side by side) the 2x6 on the shelf with shims and lock it in place with to clamps.  I add the catch tray (and the solvent recapture bottle not shown), slide the bracket to the correct position for the club I'm working on and clamp the club in the vise.  In about two minutes I'm ready to go.
Lately I've stained the wood to make it look nicer and waxed the 2x6 to aid in easily moving the slide.  I also added a leveling laser.  

The laser has a magnetic base and will sit on the vise.  I shine the vertical laser line on the white slide background to help me align the club face so it's sitting at 12:00.   I usually use the laser when I'm regripping putters to help insure I have the grip's flat section as perpendicular to the face as I can get it before making minor changes after releasing the club from the vise.
When I'm done, I break everything down and I have two brackets set up over my shed window where the main 2x6 station resides.  For a simple design, it works pretty well for me when I regrip clubs for me and my friends.
 
 

Just finished my first "real" build. I had done a couple of quick reshafts and installed adapters, but this was my first go at a full set.
I fit my buddy for some Cobra T-rails at a couple of degrees up and a half inch long. He wanted to keep the purchase less than $500, so I went to work. I found some previous generation T-rails at Mike's Golf Outlet for $375 (6-PW). They looked to be in good shape and my buddy agreed so we pulled the trigger. On a good note, the club heads came quickly and the hosels were pretty clean. However, I wasn't super impressed with their service. I had sent a couple of emails and made a note in the purchase asking for a lie angle measurement. I never heard back on either front. Also, when they were shipped, they simply put the loose heads in an upside down box inside of another! No bubble wrap or protection for the heads. Needless to say I was less than impressed.
I ordered ferrules, grips and shafts from Diamond Tour and I couldn't have been happier! Grips and shafts all weighed within 1-2 grams of stated weight. Everything was safely packaged and arrived quickly. Tried to keep with the black and blue theme of the heads with matching 1" ferrules and Grafalloy supercharged shafts. The Lamkin grips don't match (I would have done CP2 wraps), but for $4 for a midsize grip, it was too good to pass up. Total here was $121.
Now to the build, the PW came in a bit light, so I knew I needed to add a tip weight and that gave me a pretty consistent swingweight to the others.
Goal Specs:
All irons at C8 (Was never going to happen because the shafts are 15g heavier than the ones he tried in the Cobras which had the ultralights and we went 1/2" long) Everything was swingweighted at D3 before epoxy.
PW 36.5"    9i 37"   8i 37.5"   7 iron 38"  6 iron 38.5" (Decided to stick with 1/2" increments despite Cobra only having 1/4" between the 9i and PW)
Weighed all the shafts and grips and cut to length. I wanted to glue the heads prior to gripping to help the air escape and make sure that everything was seated. 
The biggest issue on these clubs for me were the ferrules. I ended up ruining 3 of them because they fit too tight on the shaft and got stuck before I could really use the heads to push them on. I found that taking a bit of sandpaper to rough up the inside of the ferrules made a big difference. However, once I got the ferrules on and the head glued, it seemed that the ferrules sat just a bit too high and I couldn't get them back level to some of the hosels. You can see in the pictures what I'm talking about. Also, I wiped the ferrules multiple times and used tape to prevent the ferrule from creeping and I still had glue residue leak through on some. Then I started to use a felt belt on the ferrules and completely marred the one on the PW. I tried to be super light after that. Well I couldn't get enough heat (worried about black finish) and I don't have a shaft puller, so I had to take it to the shop to get the head removed and started over. I used the felt belt, acetone at 90 degrees to the felt belt markings and then I tried a buffer wheel with some polish and the wheel wouldn't turn on my grinder, so I just did a few quick spins with paper towel and the acetone.
Final Specs PW D6 36.5"   9i D5 37"   8i D5 37 5/8"  7i D4  38"  6i D4  38 5/8"
Give me some tips and feedback! 
How can I stop the ferrules from coming up? Did I just use too much epoxy and that's why it leaked? Do the swingweights make sense after every the measurements were done before the epoxy? Is a turning arm worth it?
 

McGolf Custom Clubs got named as a best fitter in America 2023 -2024
We are very happy and honored to receive the recognition.
This is our 7th time for receiving the award.

SOLD:  1. Mevo+, bought early last year, but used maybe 3-4 times.  Thought I would use it more, but simply don't use it.  It is in great condition, with original box, case, manual, gauges and silver dots.  I am also including 2 boxes of new never used Prov1X RCT balls.  I also bought a 3D printed stand with plexiglass shield.  All is in great working order.  Price is firm $1200, shipped to the ConUS.  Paypal only.  SOLD: 
      

2.  SOLD Set of 14 brand new, Golf Pride MCC Teams, dark red & white, I decided that I needed to keep using the Plus4 grips and don't need these.  These are the hard to find, dark red/white teams colors.  14 grips.  $140 shipped to ConUS, firm.  PayPal only SOLD