Jump to content

Blacklist

Member
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Blacklist

  1. Blair / Winnipeg, MB Canada Standard Adidas (unlined) rain gear. Has to be horizontal rain, I walk with a 4 wheel bag boy push cart. When its vertical rain the umbrella helps a bit but once the wind picks up and its a horizontal rain that umbrella is a joke. Up here in 1 day you can have rain, snow and then be wearing shorts for the last few holes.
  2. Blair - Winnipeg, MB, Canada RBZ driver/3w/5w and a knock off 7w cause I hate the 3 iron wilson ci6 irons (4-LW) 20 reduce my handicap, seems like I went backwards last year
  3. Guess it would also depend if this was a 1 time project or something you were looking to do regularly until you figured out which grip you liked ($$$). https://www.golfworks.ca/pressurized-golf-grip-remover/p/GS6/ This remover works well, you could also use it with an air compressor, but it will remove the grip safely on its own, ready to use again, in like 10 seconds.
  4. Blair Fenwick - Manitoba RBZ stage 1 - FGS Plus 95mph 260 yards FB - Blacklist Golf iPhone 5S
  5. Interesting topic...I use tip weights in building a set to get a specific swing weight, either for consistency in the set progression or to MOI it to a set SW for all clubs. But I wouldn't think of it as changing/potentially changing the flight characteristic of a swing...allowing a player to achieve the best swing he/she can...yes. I use lead tape in the fitting process to determine what gives the player the best feel/feedback from his/her swing. I'm not sure if the placement of the lead tape would alter the flight characteristic of a swing...I'll accept if someone says it does (same as if you adjust weights on a Cure putter it will increase/decrease the toe movement) but I would be doubtful that a strip or 2 (under 10g) would be that much of a difference. As to the 'pouring shot down the shaft' I have done that with putters, used a cork and epoxy to hold it in place, but for me...I think I would avoid it in a iron/wood. When you pack it (so to speak) to avoid the 'swish' sound it would make going up and down the shaft; I would assume you have altered the strength/flex of that point of the shaft...good if thats what you wanted to do, but not so good if it alters the feel from the fitting to the finished product. Be interested to read some more opinions.
  6. In a similar boat, the only major store near me is a retail chain...I asked a few questions and the guy that was doing the 'fitting' had no clue what I was talking about. Salesman playing fitter, no thank you. I've done some reading (as we all have) and have a swing talk which gives me some details, I build my own clubs so its easy enough to mess around. But the biggest issue is that I don't want to waste a fitters time, I would feel guilty about the fact that I am not looking for him to build the set, just do a fitting so I know the numbers/information I need; then I can build it myself.
  7. I keep the spec's on all the fittings I do, not just the person's data (wrist to floor, etc) but also from the trip to the range (swing speeds/launch angles) to the spec's on the set (length/weight/swing weight/shaft flex sorting/components used/etc) so if they wanted a set built and there had not been any drastic difference in the individuals game, I could do it without their involvement, no problem.
  8. Been testing out a Cure putter...takes a bit of getting use to..feels like a hockey stick. Long putts are much more accurate, but I'm still trying to dial in the short putts...think its just easy to get lazy when you line up a face that size...anyways, I'll take the mirror when your done lol
  9. Get those all the time. Not going into a lot of detail here but the quick answer is: Use an extractor and a heat gun to remove the broken shaft from the club head. If there is not enough for the extractor to dig into/grab use a small drill bit to make some holes IN THE SHAFT material (not the club head hosel) with a bit of heat it will loosen up whatever is left. Club head will be good as new again. The shaft is toast as far as a driver, but depending on the model/stiffness, and tip cutting done, you could clean it up and use in a 5 or 7 wood.
  10. I agree, I love the way the white pops out at you, very sharp, wicked job!
  11. Quick question: I use to get some of my supplies through Golfsmith, now that Golf Galaxy has taken over, they do not appear to be interested in the building side of things (not a surprise) so I'm just curious, where is everyone getting their shop supplies now? I'm talking epoxy, swing weight scales, swing weights themselves, sanding belts, etc. The things you use to prep, set up, and build clubs, not the club components themselves. Mostly Golfworks and a few local shops myself. Thanks B
  12. Thanks for the feedback. I put the grips back on last night, no problem, kept the PSI at 30ish, quick and easy. Will help in the build process too (I think) after you put in your tip weights you can pop on the grips, put the heads on and check everything on the scale to make sure you are getting the swing weight you want for the club. For my clubs I would stick to the compressor, but I think for customers I will do the final install using the old fashioned method...just for my own piece of mind, I have seen people abuse the crap out of a club and then try to claim it broke 'during the swing' lol
  13. Would totally agree with Plano. I haven't played with the Epic yet, so forgive me if this additional thought is a waste of time BUT the only exception would be if you were concerned about taking it to a certain swing weight; then I would dry fit, measure and cut, determine what tip weight adjustment you would need. Epoxy the tip weight, then the actual club head. Keep in mind the graphite tip weight will add an 1/8 of an inch to the length in most cases.
  14. Think I might be an odd ball on this subject, I went from name brand to no name. I had RBZ woods, Wilson CI6 irons, Fubuki shafts on the woods and True Temper on the irons, Odyssey putter. I'm a Hobby builder, but the course I play out of doesn't have a shop, so I'm the guy they call. Problem is the market I have can't and won't spend 300 or more on a driver. So I started researching knock off gear. The legit stuff not illegal (made to look like) crap..so the Turner H-1 head, which looks like an M-1, but isn't claiming to be an M-1. So I built a set to try it out, and I have been playing it ever since. I'll change stuff for the 'look' that suits me today/this season and the play style I am looking for ie can't hit a 3 wood (15*) worth a damn, but give me a 4 wood (16.5*) and I am fine...so lets get in a shaft and try a 4 wood head on a 3 wood shaft at 43.5" Maybe if I had a +100mph swing it would make a difference, but at 90mph, I honestly don't see/feel a difference, and I love to experiment.
  15. Add on question...using air to install some grips on my set, switched them around several times before using a grip needle, etc. when I was tinkering with swing weight. If there is needle holes in the grip already (like 5 or 6) will the install with air work? or just blow a hole through the existing needle holes in the grip...question just kind of popped into my head..sorry
  16. GW's has a grip needle that works great, takes 10 seconds to remove an old grip if you want to save it, just need to get a bubble going, it'll walk the rest of the way up the grip. Just wrap a rag around the bottom (label end), the solvent will want to spray out when it breaks the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...