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Everything posted by dan_t

  1. dan_t


  2. and yes shaving the face changes the COR of the clubface which in turn, makes it NON USGA CONFORMING Remember those interga soo-long driver heads? same idea
  3. I think for a guy who can boom it, sure it will work For the average joe who swings a driver say 95 I don't think the difference will be that noticeable The face will crack a lot faster as well
  4. BLUE.... I have the maltby exact measure tool what I ended up on doing is buying a protractor from the dollar store and setting the angle of the sole plate to 60* and measuring from there. I got them all perfectly exact. I know there is differences due to bounce profiles in the soles from the 4 to the P head. Anyways dude, got them 110% bang on now so I can pursue getting them SST pured now.... I want this experiment to be the most accurate ans sickest set to date. I run a KBS 130 g .370 shaft in my main MMB blades cut to 5.5 and I have them tipped accordingly 3 to the 60*. I was told these will CPM out to a 5.1 or so (prostix told me) I know they are softer then their taper tip brothers.... I am going back to PX again however this time it is taper tips and it's 5.0 flex which I think should play similar to my KBS They are High Launch shafts as well and I am going with forged CB heads (Maltby TE) I liked the 6.0 and 5.5 the only problem was that I felt I didn't have the proper CHS to load these shafts. I am hoping that these shafts will be significantly better. I swing a 6 iron 85 on average and a 5 88 on average with a smooth tempo so that being said, with the KBS thats why I like them, I can feel the heads in the swing. I only paid $44 for the 4-PW PX HL so this is a cheap experiment. Thanks Man
  5. Rookie Blue I am going to go with the gut and do wedge + on the 54* and regular wedge on the 60* I think I will be FINE Looking forward to trying the lower launch and added RPM Ordered the stuff today and I am like you. I use KBS shafts in my gamers' but this set I am building now well, again I am just like you I want it to be built to exact and prefect tolerances. I measure and cut and weigh multiple times. It is a sickness. You just never know until you build it right? Plus it's fun. I had a UST .350 stiff shaft in a driver here... wow didn't fit it (head) at all ok felt like bad swings. So I got a new head a few days ago.... pulled the UST and re shafted it to this head.... Like a different club completley Never had a driver that felt so right and hit it so well. Thats the thing about equipment, some set ups feel awesome but some you need to swap around til you get it to feel just right. Thats the theory I have come to accept as what works for me Thanks again man!
  6. Hi All Does anyone know where one can find Adams pro Gold boxer headweights? I re shafted my 20* and planning on re shafting my 18* with KBS steel hybrid shafts. I know the 20* has to drop to about a 2-3 G from the 7 it has in it stock. I need a 2 gram for the 20* for sure and haven't measured the other (18*) yet... Can someone reply to topic or PM me to let me know??? I tried to set something up with a guy on ebay (adams tour van guy) but we somehow lost communication. Thanks in Advance Dan
  7. Wedge 124 G shaft is for sand and lob wedges and wedge + (131 g) is for gap and pitching wedges OK so the wedge shaft... is the one for the 54* and up club...... so i'd play two of the same flex in both my clubs correct? Now I can run these shafts in a .370 tip head.... I just need to shim it correct???? Thanks again
  8. Hi Sorry for not being clear I own a few sets of wedges I had a set of x tours (.355) with the s300's they were way too firm for me I had some cleveland cg12's last year with the cleveland traction true temper wedge shaft I really liked them because they felt softer then the s300 in the older x-tours. I am using component clubs now because I really have good luck and like them Maybe it was in my head the flex issue, Your information is excellent BTW THANK YOU this is the exact info I needed to go by. Now I went with a HL in my irons because I want to try a different kind of blade this year I went with a forged cavity back and .355 tip shaft I have a swingspeed of 100 MPH with a driver and I hit a 6 iron 85 on average I have a smooth transition at the top. It isn't forced. I wanted to try a softer flex to load the club more and possibly gain carry distance. 99.9% time I run with KBS and I like them I have KBS .370 tours (130 gram shaft tipped @ 5.5) in my "other set" of clubs Maltby MMB 3-P plus 54* and a 60* I like the constant feel of this set of clubs. They are very smooth and not harsh. I tried PX 6.0 (NO) and 5.5 (so-so) This is why I try 5.0 now. That being said, I know a 5.5 flex in .370 KBS plays like a PX 5.0 taper tip flex (so I have read) .... These clubs were an experiment (the newer set) I am going with a higher launch to maximize carry in my irons.... I really just want to get my iron play better I am a 8 handicap and if I can find the perfect set of clubs.... may just be the year for me. I have a third set too, same blade (MMB) however they are MOI fitted I really don't care for this combination They don't feel the same as other clubs to me. So I gave a good explanation why I went HL it's an experiment.... maybe it will work out Now from what you are saying the wedge + shaft would suit me, I hit a 54* wedge at full force (100 yard club) however I baby a 60* I hit a lot of 1/2 and 3/4 shots with that. I rely on that ONE club 60 yards and in. So the spinner in wedge + that brings the ball in lower, I like that idea because I hit a PW about 115-120 at full swing speed ok I don't hit a lot of 1/2 shots with that club...... The 54 same deal full shots The 60 is used for everything 60 and in I have a good feel with that club for trajectory and distance.... I use it out of all bunkers and don't have a good track record with a 54 in that department. I was under the assumption that all wedge shafts were "softer" then their regular counterparts for shafts 3-PW I learned something today So tell me on full swings how does the DG spinner shafts hold up any loss of distance? I don't want the ball to "balloon" and lose distance as with these clubs, I have good confidence in them and know their optimal yardages. Maybe lower will bite more on green then what I am used too... Will control distances much better possibly with these shafts....see try it, may just improve the game.... thats why I want to try this So in conclusion, wedge and wedge plus differences aren't stiffness they are in regards to loft, and if I run a 54 and 60 then wedge plus is the ticket for me. I tried a s300 wedge shaft and man did not feel a thing with it. Thats why I figured i'd ask about these newer shafts. I want to try them out but need more accurate information. In regards to feel, will the 54 compared to the PW feel different with both shafts different? (PX HL to DG Spinner) Thanks a lot for your very informative information Regards Dan
  9. No the wedge heads are .370 tip I was thinking what shaft would perform similar to the pitch wedge? And the 60 I would play that a little softer for feel and spin The shafts I am running are discontinued. I was told though that the shorter clubs shafts were standard PX. Is this correct? What shaft would play similar to what I am setting up? Thanks in advance
  10. Got cut off. Btw I meant x tour wedges..... iPhone...... Anyway like I meant to say earlier, I will either run a .370 or run a .355 tip shaft with shim for my wedges as they are parallel tip heads I was thinking on going 47 pitch 53 sand and 58 lob this time or may just stick with a 54/60. I always use the 60 out of the sand because of the nice big flange. Thanks again guys
  11. Hey guys. One more question..... If I Running project x high launch in. 5.0 flex taper tip, what would be a good shaft to compliment the shafts and flex? I am settled on the wedge heads already and I normally run with a 54 ( full shot 100 yard club) however I use a 60* for more feel shots (1/2 @ 3/4 swings) I know with rifle spinners they say to move down 1/2 flex point or so I have been told. So my thinking is to go something similar to my iron shafts in the 54* and say more a "wedge shaft" in the 60* am I correct in my thoughts here???? I had two clevelands with wedge flex shafts in them last year and they were like throwing darts literally What would be an optimal shaft comb For this kind of setup? I am kind of interested in the new dynamic gold spinners but whats the deal with the wedge and wedge + shafts?????? I had s300 on a set of callaway x dodgers but found them with no feel and very stiff in the past Thank you Dan It would be noted too if
  12. I measured the center of the sole and clubface and went from there.... I tried a protractor and the exact measure tool but wanted to get them 110% on bang lengths Just want this set as tight and accurate as I can be I think these will be a delight to hit
  13. I measured the center of the sole and clubface and went from there.... I tried a protractor and the exact measure tool but wanted to get them 110% on bang lengths Just want this set as tight and accurate as I can be I think these will be a delight to hit
  14. I figured the board would be best which I already have but my issue there was getting the lie close to what the soles are...... Thank you
  15. HI All As the topic says I am doing a dry build on a set of forged cavity backs (new) and PX taper tip shafts (new) and I am running with a 38 1/2' 4 iron. I was contemplating rough cutting the shafts then dry installing each head onto it's shaft then laying the clubs toe down on a table butted up against the hosel (to get all clubs the exact same length) then using a 1/2 gauge and going 1/2 space shaft to shaft on the butt end. To get them accurate for 1/2" difference sand the butts on a 90* flat sander then re measure butt of club to club hosel(s) evenly against the edge of the table. In theory does this sound OK? I just want to get this set sickly accurate. Thank You
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