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WalterS

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Posts posted by WalterS

  1. On 5/10/2021 at 1:17 PM, Popeye64 said:

    The first real rendition of these was the M-05 Logic Tradition started back in 2003. They went through small tweaks for years but have always been one of the best sellers. The final version is the TE and honestly if they keep selling they will keep making them. Time may have finally caught up with the design.. though it has been timeless. 

    The new TS3 is a very promising progressive cavity back that will be a true forged club. I have very high hoped for this head and it probably won't be till late winter spring. He still has not released pictures yet. 

    TS-1 is all the latest bells and whistles in tech so it's tough for the TE to keep up. Sounds like the TS3 will be right between the two. 

    Well in that case I hope the new TS3 version has the same lofts and offsets as the TE, if so then I would give them a try when the time comes.

  2. On 5/6/2021 at 2:05 PM, Kansas King said:

    GolfWorks claims they feel the same. I have a feeling the difference would be more mental than anything. It's important to remember that the TEs have a chrome coating over the top affecting feel unlike the DBMs. The biggest difference is that the DBMs are 1 degree stronger lofted. I also went back to the Maltby forum and in a recent post Britt said they have a progressive cavity back forging quite a ways along in the design process with their next muscle back coming out in 2022.

    I have a feeling Golfworks is looking to move on from the TE design eventually but I would be surprised if it is within the next year. I have a feeling if their new forged designs are good, the TE and DBM will go away. My gut says they TE may not be a real profitable product at $29/head like it probably used to be. I'm willing to bet that Maltby doesn't make a forged head that costs under $45 within the next three years. 

     

    On 5/6/2021 at 5:08 PM, Popeye64 said:

    The TE is known as a Legacy head. It's been produced in a form for what has to be nearly 15 years probably closer to 20. A true timeless design. I'm pretty sure they have enough for one more model year. The MMB was another head that live a very long life. 

    The TS-1 and TS-2 have approached all time sales records if not already there. . So that's what killed the PTM. The TS-1 also killed the MMB-17.  Britt has been working on the new forging for quite a while and hoped it would have already been here. The KE4 Tour replacement is just around the corner as well. Another legacy head that's been tweaked forever. 

    I don't know how long the TE have been out, but considering just how good this head is I can't see why they would stop making it, I prefer it over my Mizuno MPs. New is not always better and I don't know how much better you can get over the TE. Some say the TS1 is better, I don't know I have never tried them. Maybe more people bought them because they have the muscle back look over a cavity backed TE. Well when it comes time to replace a few of my TE heads and they aren't available anymore hopefully Britt will have a newer model that is just as good. Time will tell.

    • Like 2
  3. 19 hours ago, brendalonian said:

    I've been gaming the Wilson D7 Forged since last summer and I was pretty shocked when I saw they carry an MPF score of 438. But then again, my distance and lateral dispersion with them is pretty erratic. Seeing as how inexpensive the TE Forged heads are, I decided to build three 6 irons in different shafts for some testing. 

    Even with an MPF of 788, I didn't expect the TE to be ultra forgiving given its compact shape. After four driving range sessions and one 9-hole round, I have been incredibly impressed by how much forgiveness this club provides. The carry distance is down a tad from my Wilsons due to the weaker lofts, but the distance consistency appears, thus far, to be superior. I'm finding a groove with one of the shafts in particular and I feel like I'm throwing darts with this club. 

    It feels weird to consider replacing a 1.5 year old model with an 11 year old model, but I suppose Maltby/GolfWorks hasn't replaced it because it works and still sells. I too echo @WalterS's question about the longevity of the grooves and wonder if the DBM version would hold up better over time. 

    Good to hear you're liking the TEs too. Yes I wonder if the DBM version's grooves hold up longer. I guess one option would be to buy a spare set of TE heads before they stop making them.

    • Like 2
  4. 1 minute ago, lefty110golf said:

    A lot of good comments here. I agree (1) take a lesson from a pro that you trust and (2) find a club fitter. I am 68 and trying to find a way to get my swing speed up. It is currently 85-87. I game a M6 with the Fuji Atmos Black 5R that I cut an inch off, based on what a guy at GolfTec told me. I hit it in the middle, but think I hit it in the middle at the full length, and the swing-weight is like C5. I am going to a fitting at PGASS to see if a different shaft/length/head will help me get back to 90+.  This fitter fit me for my Wilson D7 irons and they are working well for me.

    the actual swing weight number doesn't matter, what matters is can you feel the head. If you can't feel the head then you need to add weight to it until you can feel the head when you swing it. well getting a lighter club will help you swing it faster, but getting your muscles to react to help you swing it faster is what you want. I would suggest doing some kettlebell swings, pick a weight you can handle safely for 5 sets of 5 to 10 swings. Work up to numbers and over time your body will get used to moving that KB and in turn your swing will pick up some speed, but it won't happen overnight and it won't happen if you don't do the exercise. A couple times a week is fine.

  5. 7 minutes ago, Fjd said:

    I am 79 yrs old with a driver swg spd of 79-82 mph.  I hit a Tour Edge EXS 220 driver with a Fujikura Air Speeder 40 shaft with an R flex.  This club/ shaft was recommended by MGS’s TrueGolfFit system.  It was and continues to be a great fit.  However, I have found that if I choke up approx. 1” I have more center hits on the club face.  Current driver length is 45 1/4” and I choke down to about 44” and the hits are definitely better.

    Great for you Fjd, I heard the EXS220 was a nice driver head. Get some spare head weights(for swing weighting) from TE and cut that sucker down to 44".

  6. Well if he's hitting it all over the face then it may be too long, try a 44". I'd also agree that a senior shaft may not be the right way to go either, try just a regular shaft, yeah I know who's regular as regular is not always regular. As far as lessons go, I'd be careful there, "some" of these so-called instructors don't know sh!t when it comes to giving "proper" swing lessons. But they sure like your money, ha-ha. As far a head goes, if you're not a big hitter to begin with just find yourself an older M1 or M3, those will work just fine for you. Now you're asking yourself what loft, don't automatically assume a 12 or 10.5* because a 9 or 9.5 might be what you need. Learn to hit up on the ball and get a 9 or 9.5.

    Just my 2 cents.

  7. "to remember why they are such a great club but am also reminded why I like the TS-1's that much more. Now I have him considering a set of TS-1's or 2's. We'll see."

     

    Well that sentence sort of sums it up doesn't it, ha-ha. Great, now you'll have me thinking about if the TS-1's could be in my future. But the TS-1 is a 2 piece forged with some polymer in the middle isn't it, where as the TE is a true one piece. Well if your dad likes them better and also plays better with them let me know. Are you going to put the same 950 shafts in his new ones too.

  8. 10 hours ago, azstu324 said:

    So as far as the offset, the DBM/TE have uniform offset of .10" throughout the set. The TS-1's have a progressive offset with the lowest being .09" and the highest at .120". to compare .120" to .10" is extremely negligible and really isn't noticeable with the naked eye. These visually have little to no offset.

    As for the comparison of feeling and sound, these really are 2 very different clubs. The DBM/TE's are a solid piece of 1030 whereas the TS-1's are hollow 1025c with a polymer insert and tungsten toe weight. I'd say the TS-1's feel just as soft but with a more explosive kick off the face. IMO, a well-struck TS-1 just seems more rewarding. The top line is maybe a hair thinner on the DBM's but the sole is noticeably thinner and rounded on the TS-1.

    I also like the overall shape of the blade on the TS-1's. They seem to be more uniform through the set. The DBM's from what I remember had an odd shaped PW and GW in comparison to the rest of the set.

    I had my set built with True Temper DG 105 shafts. I believe that for 4-PW + 50° + 56° I paid around $700 shipped. Yes that is probably on the higher end of what you'd pay for any set of Maltbys but IMO I have the equivalent of a $2000 set. I just love everything about these.. and the TSW wedges round them out perfectly.

    the more I practice, the luckier I seem to get..
     

    Thanks for your take on the differences between the two. Maybe some day I'll buy a couple heads to try out. Yes the offsets aren't really that much for either of them, so to the naked blind eye you'd never see it and I can't imagine that that little of an offset makes much difference in squaring up the face, but you never know I guess.

    I have Nippon NS 950GH shafts(with Pure DTX mids grips) in mine and they work for me(okay, well most of the time, ha-ha)

  9. 10 hours ago, azstu324 said:

    Hey still a pretty killer story nonetheless. I believe I got that info in a news article from golf digest. I'm sure they "embellished" a tad.

    the more I practice, the luckier I seem to get..
     

    Yeah I was calling him the rock star but he quickly pooh poohed that, ha-ha.

  10. On 5/4/2020 at 12:03 AM, shortgame said:

    I have to agree with you on the OEMs feelings,  popeye. I had the Maltby TE forged irons for the past 5 years and its been the best set of irons I've ever had. They're a very forgiving iron with lofts that are not jack up. 

    I'd have to agree with you there, the TE heads are great(better than my MP57s). I've had them for maybe 4 years now that I really don't have that many rounds on them. My question is how long will the grooves in these last playing 80 rounds a year and should I stock up on another set of heads for backups just incase they decide to stop making them.

    • Like 1
  11. On 3/22/2020 at 12:54 PM, azstu324 said:

    You guys have probably seen me post in other threads so sorry for the repeat. Many people in underground component golf brand world don't realize that Wishon was an apprentice of Ralph Maltby back in the 80's.

    Wishon then went on to run Dynacraft. And eventually broke off to start Wishon Golf.

    Wishon was also a drummer for the Steve Miller band!

    These are some really nice looking irons! Can't wait for the release of the TSW wedges. I'm also really interested in the KE4 TC 3 wood or STF2 3 wood.

    the more I practice, the luckier I seem to get..
     

    "Wishon was also a drummer for the Steve Miller band!"

    Well........ that is not quite completely true. Although he did sit in on the taping of the Fly Like an Eagle album and yes I do believe he told me it is him drumming on one of the tracks on the album. But no he was never "the drummer" for Steve Miller. They just happened to be at the golf course where he was working and found out he was a drummer and asked him to sit in because their drummer was sick. And that is straight from the horse's(Tom's) mouth to me.

  12. 4 hours ago, azstu324 said:

    Unfortunately I can't say anything for the Maltby tour grind wedges but I'm certain that they're top notch. Like others here though I game the TSW's and absolutely love everything about them.
    While the sole does appear wider, it's not at all noticeable at addresses and has a very "blade-like" appearance. Turf interaction and bounce effectiveness is as good as anything!

    I also played the DBM's for a couple of years and loved them. I moved to the TS-1's last year and couldn't be more pleased.

    The great thing about Maltby is that you can order both and still be all in for half the price of an OEM



    the more I practice, the luckier I seem to get..
     

    So what aspects of the TS-1 do like over the DBM/TE heads, besides they are more expensive, ha-ha. They are nice looking, but they have more offset for each club whereas the TEs have a constant offset. I see the TS-1 use 1025C carbon steel and the TE uses 1035 carbon steel. I'm sure exactly how much difference that really makes or which one is softer feeling etc.

     

    Like you said, beats the cost of OEM by a huge amount.

  13. 16 hours ago, tommc23 said:

    They are similar I kicked the glides out for the TSW

    Interesting that they kicked out the expensive Pings. At the moment I have Mizuno T7, but my GW is the TE. But I think my next ones will be the TSW.

  14. I've tried various heavier shafts(>60g in various brands and flex ratings) in both my drivers and FWs. I find I prefer a lighter shaft(50g-ish). I do tend to add tip weights(not much) so I can feel the head weight during the swing. The total weight of the club does end up a little lighter, while still being able to feel the head. I do put my own clubs together and use my swing weight gauge to put the SW where I need it, although SW is not the be all end all. Having your own SW gauge helps get things where I like them. I have to use mid size grips, which adds more weight(58g vs 48 for reg-typically) to the butt end which can cause problems in trying to keep the club balanced, and using lighter shafts doesn't help in the balancing act in this case. But once they're setup correctly I find they work better for me.

    As for shafts, at the moment I'm using the Aerotech Claymore shafts in both my driver and FW and I just love em. I like them more than the vastly more expensive other shafts I've had.

    Come on RI_Redneck at 58 you're still a young'en, ha-ha, I've got you by 6 years, I guess I started at about age 19. With my present driver I can still get it out there over 300(total, according to my GPS, but maybe Garmin skewed it, ha-ha, good, it still makes me feel good).

  15. So true, like everything in golf you need to test it, what works for one may not work for another, but there are still some basic rules I guess that stand. Unfortunately too many golfers can not afford that luxury or being fitted so they rely on forums like this to help them out.

  16. 3 minutes ago, Murv said:

    I carry the 50, 54 and 58 TSW wedges and love them. I have 3 requirements from my wedges...full and partial fairway shots, pitchs and chips from around the green and bunker shots. The TSW do all well. My course has poor bunkers...so that is my weakest shot. A little more bounce on my 54 would be nice. I also have a 56 and  go with it instead of the 54-58 combo if I need something at the other end of the bag. 

    I highly recommend them

    How are they understand damp or wet conditions, would they match up to the Ping Glides.

  17. Well I'll have to give another big vote for the TE heads. I have the Nippon Pro 950 shafts in them, best irons I've had, and my last set were Mizuno MP57s and these TEs are so much nicer. Of course the shaft accounts for some of it.

    I haven't tried any of their wedges yet, but one day I will.

  18. 4 hours ago, mccracken79 said:

    I have seen a big difference in driver accuracy by getting a heavier shaft (Evenflow T1100 - 6.0 - 75) in my driver.  I have been considering getting a heavier shaft in my 3 wood as well to improve accuracy.  It seems pretty standard for the wood shaft to be about 10g heavier then driver.  If I swap in a new shaft should I add weight to the clubhead?  My club head has the option for different weights in the clubhead.  

    Also - do folks typically stick with a similar shaft model to their driver? 

    Thanks, 

    Matt

    So with that logic, wouldn't all the pros be using heavy shafts, when is actual fact most of them use 60's or less. Rory uses a 60 in his driver. The LPGA players usually use driver shafts in the 50's. Using a heavier shaft is going to slow down your head speed, I suppose a heavy shaft might be more accurate but you'll be a lot shorter. Or maybe you could just get fitted for the proper lighter shaft to begin with and have the best of both worlds. Just a thought.

  19. On 7/15/2019 at 2:27 PM, CarlH said:

    And, what do you do with your imperfect balls?  

    I put then in my Check go pro and put a line on them and I'll use them on rainy days.

  20. On 7/15/2019 at 1:54 PM, Monaco said:

    Hi,

     

    do you have a link, what to do in the test?

    i will do it with the mtbx! 

    % out of my 6 dozen Srixon Z Stars I would consider perfect after doing the float test.

  21. On 7/13/2019 at 9:04 PM, Tsecor said:

    can you post pics so we can see the testing?

    Post pictures? It was a simply Epsom salt water float test, what kind of pictures do you need to see? DO you not believe my conclusions?

  22. On 7/2/2019 at 8:33 AM, chisag said:

    ... Some of us have been saying this for quite awhile now. Don't play used balls or water balls or cheap balls or DTC balls because you have no idea what kind of quality they really are. Personally, I do not trust any of the DTC balls with the exception of Snell. Dean has put in the research and with his name on his ball I can't imagine he would cut any corners. It will be interesting to hear what kind of quality Kirkland Signature balls produce as Costco usually researches/tests a product before putting the Kirkland name on it. 

    ... So much of the original ball test, according to Tony and his Titleist visit, bears out why some of the balls in the test performed poorly as far as dispersion or consistency. The simply have very poor quality control. An off center core will effect the ball dramatically and of course if you have 10 balls out of 12 with good QC but 2 balls out of round or suffering some other QC issue, that could be the shot you hit OB that derails your round. A bad swing produces a bad shot but the good news is maybe not as bad as it could end up being if you are playing a quality ball. So the bottom line for even high index players that think the ball won't make any difference for their game, need to rethink their position because some of their bad shots can absolutely be the ball they are playing. Why take that chance? You can always find deals on last years balls from those with the highest QC and stock up. I think the scariest thing I heard, which I had no idea before this podcast, is some of the cheaper balls when cut open had completely different materials and cores within one dozen!?!? Some 2 piece, some 3 or even 4 piece balls, all with different materials meaning the performance will be radically different for every ball. Poor quality yes, but I would have never guessed they are completely different balls in a one dozen box. 

    ... Lastly Tony says Titleist, Srixon and Bridgestone are to be trusted for their QC. I have been playing Z Stars and TP5x and hate to think TaylorMade is cutting corners with their QC. When you look at the men and women on tour it is easy to see Titleist, TaylorMade, Srixon and Bridgestone are the balls the pros trust. Callaway has a tour presence but we know the Pro's play a different ball than the retail version. The new Maxfli's tested well so I imagine they are included in balls you can trust. You see a few Volvik's especially on the LPGA, but Bubba playing so poorly with Volvik's and cancelling his contract is a red flag for me. I am eagerly anticipating Tony cutting balls open to test their QC in his future ball series. 

    I did the Epsom water test on 3 sleeves of ProV1X(brand new older version), the first 2 sleeves all the balls tested heavy one side and they came to rest very quickly to the same point, didn't bother testing the last sleeve with QC like that. So much for Titleist's QC.

    I did the same tests for 6 dozen of the newest Z Star and out of the 6 dozen about 1 dozen I would consider slightly out of balance and the other 5 were perfect, which means after every spin in the water they came up slowly to a random spot. I also tried a couple sleeves of an older Z Star XV(new balls) and they were a little more out of balance than the worst Z Stars, but near as bad as the PROV1x. So with just testing a small sample of the Z Star I would say Srixon is doing a good job with these and the QC on them.

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