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Everything posted by Hoyoymac

  1. This week I was paired with a guy in our Men’s Group that just retired and after our round he asked me for some advice. He was observing me hit shots as we played and he wanted to know how I was able to get the ball to hit the green and stop on my short chips and pitches. After our round we went to the chipping practice area. We had a discussion about what clubs to use around the green and why. I showed him several different ways to chip. Then we talked about the importance of the golf ball. I asked him what golf ball he was playing. He said that he played whatever he found or whatever was inexpensive because he loses a lot of balls. This led to a conversation about using the same brand and model ball all the time so that you get familiar with how it reacts from tee to green and in a variety of different situations. We discussed, I demonstrated and had him chip with different balls to experience how a premium urethane ball reacted vs. an inexpensive two piece ball. He saw the difference in how the ball checked up and rolled out less. I shared with him that I practice putting and chipping with the same ball instead of using range balls. Our conversation and impromptu lesson really opened his eyes to the fact that not all golf balls are the same. We talked about how to test a ball starting on the green and working back to the tee. It is my opinion that the majority of golfers don’t know how to evaluate a ball to fit themself and are unaware of the different attributes to look for and compare other than cost and feel to narrow it down. The members of this forum and the audience of the My Golf Spy blog are probably way above average in dedication, interest and proficiency. Yet even this audience is still learning the importance of the golf ball because of the lack of technical information that is available from each manufacturer and the lack of opportunity for brand agnostic ball fittings in general. Thanks for the efforts with the Ball Lab and the Ball tests. It is a definite help and a step in the right direction.
  2. Tour Edge Exotics have worked well for me for fairway woods and hybrids. Love the way they look, feel and sound. Hot off the face. I have a Taylormade SIM Ti 5 wood in the bag now and do not like how it looks, feels or sounds, but I can’t argue with the performance so it stays in the bag.
  3. The same thing happened to me when I put a set of AP3 irons in the bag a few years ago. The stronger lofts caused me to play 5 wedges because my PW was 43, the gap wedge was 48 so I added a 52,56 & 60. The top end of my bag was creating problems too because they were all running together. I needed a higher trajectory with more carry distance. Ended up taking my 4, 5 & 6 iron out of the bag and replacing them with a 21 degree 7 wood, 25 degree 5 hybrid and a 28 degree 6 hybrid. Recently I put in a new set of irons that have a PW with 46 degrees of loft and I switched my wedges to a 50, 54 & 58. Now Playing a 30 degree 6 iron down to PW and still using the 7 wood, 5 & 6 hybrids. I have a 19 degree 5 wood lofted down to 17 that I use mainly off the tee and a 10.5 degree Driver lofted down to 9.5.
  4. In the last year I’ve switched from relatively new Players distance irons (Titleist AP3) to forged cavity back irons (Corey Paul) to forged blades (also Corey Paul). What I’ve learned is that loft has been the biggest determiner of distance. My current 9 iron and my old Pitching wedge have very similar lofts and they go pretty much the same distance. The shafts I’m using now are heavier steel 120 g stiff vs the previous steel 110 g stiff and the ball is not curving as much while giving me the trajectory that I want. I bought the AP3s new after having been fitted for them in 2018. They had about 700 rounds played and are still in very good shape albeit a little dinged up. The Corey Paul forged cavity backs felt better, have very clean lines but the top line was a little boxy and I just did not like the shape of the pitching wedge. The transition from the hosel to the face also made it appear that there was more offset than actually what was measured. Despite hitting them well I had the chance to put together a set of Corey Paul minimalist blades and am glad that I did because they are everything I had hoped they would be. Love the way they look, feel and perform so far and expect I will be playing them for awhile. So, when is it the right time to get a new set of irons? Lots of possible answers based on performance, feel, confidence, economics, etc. In general though I would say get a new set when the current set is not allowing you to achieve whatever your goals are in playing golf whether that be carry distance, peak height, trajectory and shot shape, landing angle and spin, dispersion, feel, looks, lower scores, or status. Best wishes to you in finding a set of irons that tick all of the boxes!
  5. Like Micah above, when I was playing the Titleist AP3 irons I had to add a wedge. The PW loft in the AP3 iron set is 43 degrees. The gap wedge is 48 deg. So I played a 52, 56 & 60 and it worked well. If you want your ego stroked, that is a good set-up because when people ask what you hit you can say PW when they are hitting 8 or 9 iron. That is about the only benefit though, because at the top end the clubs all ran together and I had trouble with the 4, 5 & 6 irons. I now am playing somewhat more traditional lofts. My current PW is 46 degrees. I am now playing 50, 54 & 58 degree wedges. My current 6 iron has about the same loft as my old 7 iron. I’m playing 6-PW, I also have a 5 & 6 hybrid, a 7W & 4W, driver and putter. I substitute a 4 utility iron for the 5 hybrid depending on conditions and course. It is humorous though when people ask me why I have a 6 iron and a 6 hybrid? The 6 iron is 30 degrees and the 6 hybrid is 28 degrees. The 6 iron has a 120gram stiff steel shaft and the 6 hybrid has a 60 gram stiff graphite shaft. The 6 hybrid goes ten yards further with a much higher trajectory and a slight fade. The 5 hybrid has an 80 gram stiff graphite shaft. It goes 15 yards further than the 6 hybrid but with less spin, a slight draw and a lower more penetrating trajectory. Different tools for different shots. The moral to the story is play what gives you the best and most consistent yardage gaps. As long as the clubs do what you want them to do by delivering the trajectory, landing angle and spin needed and you have confidence in them, then it shouldn’t matter what number it says on the bottom. The same with shafts. There is no standard for iron numbering or shaft rating. The advice that Gareth Raflewski gave the TXG guys about wedge selection and yardages for less than a full swing is pretty much the same as outlined in Dave Pelz’s Short Game Bible. Depending on your unique launch angle, spin and carry distance you may need or want a different combinations of ball, shaft and head combination than someone else to achieve the same objective. Tinkering is OK as long as it gives you the results you are looking for. Play what works for you!
  6. Just added a set of Corey Paul minimalist muscle back blades in the bag to go with the set of Corey Paul wedges I’ve been playing. Bought a used set of heads and paired them with a set of used shaft pulls, KBS $-Taper 120 stiff shafts, and BB & F Delores shorty ferrules. SuperStroke Traxion Wrap black midsize grips round them out. Playing to a D-3 swingweight. Pro-Soft vibration dampening inserts smooth everything out. Super soft Fujimoto forgings bent to my loft and lie specs. Very traditional lofts. Loving them so far..
  7. Unfortunately I’ve found more clubs that didn’t work than those that did. In the last two years I’ve done a lot of tinkering with my clubs and bag line-up to try and eke out every bit of performance in pursuit to getting down to scratch. It has revealed to me some Eureka moments. First, Arccos Golf sensors really helped me to identify clubs that I wasn’t using or were inconsistent performers. They also helped me to understand my yardage gapping and what holes needed to be filled. Second, The addition of a BGT Stability Tour shaft in my Odyssey O-Works Black #7 putter and a SuperStroke Traxion Tour 3.0 grip with a 75 gram CounterCore weight has helped me shave an average of two strokes per round since going in the bag. Finding new old stock! In my case a Tour Edge XCG7 21 degree 7 wood and XCG7 28 degree 6 hybrid, both with the Fujikura Fuel Red 60 stiff shaft. They have become very useful clubs and are significantly more reliable than what they replaced. Corey Paul wedges with KBS Tour-V stiff wedge shafts have replaced my Vokey SM7s and I love them, especially around the green. Lastly, I’ve discovered that the every year or two introduction of new clubs promised to be longer, straighter and be more forgiving is pretty much a load of crap. Having been seduced by that line of thinking for years, I’ve solidly joined the camp of finding what works for you and sticking with it regardless of it’s pedigree, age or popularity. As long as what you have allows you to fill out your yardage gaps and you are reasonably confident that if you put a decent swing on that they will deliver then keep them in the bag. When you lose confidence in a club for whatever reason it is time for it to go to a new home.
  8. My current putter is the O-Works Black #7 with a BGT Stability Tour shaft and a SuperStroke Traxion Tour 3.0 grip with a 75 gram CounterCore counterbalance weight. The face insert is the original micro hinge design. I like it so much that I have an identical back up putter to practice with at home.
  9. Good news! After installing AdBlock Pro for Safari on my IPad and IPhone the forum and website have been restored to blazing fast speeds again. All of my complaints have been resolved. Thanks to those of you who mentioned Ad blocker apps.
  10. I’m generally using my iPad or IPhone. We have high speed fiber optic cable internet. I have turned the pop=up blocker on and I will investigate an Ad blocker.
  11. Has anyone else found the website and forum taking increasingly longer to load and navigate? The frequency of ads and pop ups seem to have caused things to get slow and buggy. Interrupting typing and causing inadvertent crashes for me. I’m finding it to be a less satisfying experience for navigating and reading the content and finding myself getting frustrated and moving on to other sources more often. It is a shame, but I’m getting increasingly disappointed with the user experience.
  12. Haven’t found the best ever driver shaft for me yet. Still looking. The Ping Alta CB Red 55 Stiff in my G410 LST 10.5 degree head has been very good. It is pretty accurate and gives me a decent trajectory with pretty good distance, but it seems like when I really go after one it is not as stable as needed. Ping also puts out very little data about it’s proprietary shafts. Would love to see full specs and an EI curve for this shaft. My driver swing speed is right at 100 MPH and generally I launch the ball lower than optimum with more spin than optimum too despite hitting the ball center or just above center on the face as confirmed by use of foot powder spray. Angle of attack is very slightly negative, -0.2, and club path and face angle are good. Head is set at 12.0 degrees and adjustable weight is in the center position. Have tried lofting down but launch angle and trajectory aren’t as good. It has been hard to find a High Launching and Low Spinning driver shaft with enough tip stiffness and low enough torque. When I find one that launches high it often spins up or has too high torque or not enough tip stiffness and I hit high hooks. The Ping head is also heavier than most driver heads which tends to lead to high swing weight with standard length shafts. With the Ping Alta 55 Red CB stiff the swing weight is D8. Have been testing this week a couple of recent used shaft purchases that I just put Ping Adapters on. Both have some aspect of counter balancing like the Alta. The first is an Aldila Xtorsion Copper 60 Stiff. The second is an Oban Kiyoshi HB 55 Stiff. Have taken all three to the range alternating after ten or so shots. Have played one round with each and haven’t been able to decide yet which one is the winner. They all feel good and perform pretty well. The Aldila seems to be the most stable and generally just goes straight no matter how hard I swing. The Oban is more sensitive to tee height, have to tee it higher to get good results. The Ping Alta rewards a smooth swing. Either would work, which is different for me. Usually I have an immediate good or bad reaction to a shaft. Next step is to get their swing weight and make tweaks as needed and then hit them all with a launch monitor and get swing speed, ball speed, launch angle and spin numbers. Had a driver fitting last week and tried a number of shafts and a few newer driver heads which was a disappointment as nothing could beat what I’ve got now, that is why I’m tinkering on my own again. Any other suggested shafts would be appreciated.
  13. Hoyoymac


    I have only used the screw in sensors, but I like them because of their portability from club to club. I am replacing grips once or twice per season and have changed irons, wedges and other clubs since getting the Arccos sensors. If you play golf infrequently or change grips every few years then the grips with built in sensors might be preferable. The Link is far superior in my experience in capturing shots compared to having your phone in your pocket.
  14. Hoyoymac


    After using the system for a over a year I now have 257 rounds captured by Arccos, 18,700 shots. What the Arccos system has allowed me to do is get a much clearer picture of my golf game. What does having a better understanding of your golf game give you? 1. Now I know realistically how far my clubs go. I make better club choice selections and hit more greens. 2. Now I know how often I use certain clubs. I have made changes to my bag based on this. There were yardage gaps. A couple clubs needed to have their lofts tweaked. A couple clubs weren’t being used because I didn’t have confidence in them or they were a poor fit for me and for the course I normally play and were replaced. 3. Knowing what my strengths and weaknesses are and where my lost strokes come from has redefined how I practice and play. I spent the last year reading Dave Pelz’s Short Game Bible and Putting Bible and putting the new knowledge in to play based on what Arccos showed me I needed to work on. Putting and Chipping are now my two greatest strengths. 4. Post round reviews and looking at the online dashboard really shows what your tendencies are after a short while of using the sensors. 5. The Caddie feature is great to use when playing unfamiliar courses or to map out your strategy for playing a course that you want to play better on. Any type of effort you put into capturing information about your game will give you good insights. What I like about the Arccos system is that it is the easiest system I’ve used so far and the insights have been the most actionable for me.
  15. Buying used clubs is no different than buying new ones. If you are buying without being fitted or trying them first you are taking a risk. At least with preowned clubs you are getting a discount off of newer clubs so the financial risk is less. But buying a used club that doesn’t perform any better than what you currently have and having to replace it a second time isn’t helpful either. Before replacing your clubs take a few moments to review the clubs in your bag. This will help you prioritize your needs and perhaps focus where to look and what to spend your money on. First, determine which club in your bag you hit the fewest times in any given round. Why do you not use this club very often? Is it because you have a lack of confidence with the club because of poor past results with it or is it because the courses you play don’t give you the yardages you would need to use the club? This may reveal a club to trade or sell. Second, determine the club you use the most and assess how happy you are with its performance. If you use the club often because it is a favorite and very dependable, then consider keeping it. If you use it a lot because the course requires you to but you get poorer results than you’d like, maybe trade or sell it and upgrade to something that will perform better. Third, is there a yardage that makes you feel like you are always in between clubs? Is there a situation that makes you feel like you don’t have the right club? For example maybe you need a club that will give you a long carry and a high launching shot that will stop on a green or maybe you have a need for a long low running shot to get under trees with overhanging limbs or to get under the wind. These situations may point to a club or two to consider adding to your bag. Finally, assess how your current equipment suits your strengths and helps your weaknesses. Why do you have a 20 handicap? Do you lose strokes on or around the green? Are you getting penalties from errant tee shots? Do you need more distance, more accuracy or both? How often do you play? If you play infrequently and aren’t able to dedicate time to practicing, then more forgiving clubs would be a direction to consider. On the other hand, if you play frequently and practice often, then maybe different equipment or an assessment of your technique is the way to go. New equipment that fits you better can and does make a difference. But if you are fitting yourself you will need to consider what club length, swingweight, shaft model, shaft stiffness, grip size, lie angle, and loft are the best for your needs. If there is a club in your current bag that is your absolute favorite, an “old trusty”, then try to copy its characteristics for the rest of your clubs. Best wishes to you in your journey to find the right equipment that will help you get more enjoyment and achieve better performance.
  16. I switched from KBS Tour V 110 g Stiff to KBS $-Taper 120g Stiff a few weeks ago and have found that my shot shape, trajectory and dispersion all have improved with little to no change in distance. I am very happy with the change. The spin is also very good. Still playing the KBS Tour V 125g wedge shafts.
  17. Today I drove a little over an hour one way for my first lesson with a new coach. An hour lesson and paid $250 for the lesson. Two hours of driving, three hours total time away from home. Worth every penny! If I can hit the ball tomorrow like I did today it will be worth even more. My coach texted me a video after the lesson that he took while we were working together demonstrating a drill he wants me to do. When I asked him when we should get together again he told me it was completely up to me. When I had mastered what we had discussed come back if I want help with something else. I’m excited to get to the range tomorrow!
  18. Generally speaking hitting off of a tee allows for a slightly more upwards attack angle that often results in a higher launch and a little more total yardage than hitting the same club off the ground without a tee. It is not uncommon for people to find that they hit a 4, 5 or 7 wood the same distance as a 3 wood off the deck because of the additional loft making the ball easier to launch. The slower their swing speed the more likely this is to happen as the higher lofted clubs add both launch and spin resulting in the ball staying in the air longer and carrying further. The 7 wood often has been called an old man’s club or a gentleman’s persuader. Golf clubs made for the Japanese Domestic Market and specifically by XXIO are aimed at the slower swinging men and women that are willing to pay for lighter shafts, lighter grips and lighter clubheads and often come with more loft. The other group of people that struggle with lower lofted clubs are people like me that tend to hit down on the ball and deloft their club at impact. Those golfers with very high swing speeds could need less spin and the lower lofted strong 3 woods with low launching and low spinning shafts might be a better choice. I believe that for most amateurs the fairway wood is one of the hardest clubs to get along with because of the variety of swing speeds, swing faults, the length of the golf shaft and the economies of the golf industry. Also they are clubs that may be used less frequently than other clubs in the bag resulting in less proficiency due to lack of use. My guess is that the readers of this forum are highly committed, passionate golfers that are much more proficient than the average golfer. Most golfers do not break 100. Only about 10% of all golfers even carry a handicap. The biggest swing fault of the occasional golfer is that they slice the ball. The swing speed and technique of the average golfer is inadequate to get a 3 wood to launch the ball in the air consistently. The economics of building fairway woods are challenging. The price to the consumer for a fairway wood is not high enough to put in a high performance shaft for the proficient golfer with higher swing speed. Most fairway wood shafts are higher torque, low kick point and fairly soft tip section shafts to aid with launch, add spin and help fight a slice. These kinds of shafts are not that expensive to make. If you put in a low torque, stiff tip, real deal premium aftermarket shaft in a fairway wood, the total cost to the consumer might be upwards of $600 and would be hard to sell except to the most dedicated golfers willing to pay for the performance they need. That is why I believe the search for a ready made, off the rack fairway wood is so frustrating for a lot of people and why once you find a fairway wood that works it tends to stay in the bag a long time. Conversely it is also a club that gets changed out a lot due to lack of performance or lack of confidence. Good luck to all y’all in your search to find or build the perfect fairway wood Unicorn.
  19. A couple weeks from now I have a driver fitting scheduled with the main purpose of being able to try real deal aftermarket shafts in the Ping G410 LST driver that I currently have. I hit this driver generally pretty well, but would like to try something other than the stock shafts that were available when I was fit into it. The cost of the driver fitting is a bargain in my mind to use their facility, pay for their time and expertise, use their inventory of expensive shafts, their launch monitors, etc. to try and find a shaft that will allow me to hopefully further improve my dispersion and gain some distance. Certainly a lot cheaper, quicker and easier than buying a bunch of expensive shafts and disposing of the losers. I am certainly willing to try newer head and shaft combinations as well while I’m there. But after the fitting if I find a better combination I will most likely just buy the components off of Ebay and install everything my self. But based on your experiment I will also try using different weights in the head as well because my Ping Driver has a current swing weight of D7. Reducing the swing weight might make a difference.
  20. Yes. The ball speed seems low for your club head speed. As mentioned by the previous poster, the efficiency in turning club head speed into ball speed is affected by how you deliver the club head to the ball and the resulting launch conditions. Using range balls can also affect the numbers. Even among premium golf balls there are some that are lower spinning and others that spin much more which also have an impact on distance. Maybe while you are having your iron fitting you could also swing your driver a few times to get some guidance from the fitter on what is going on.
  21. The heads do not to be ground. They are fully finished, just need to add a shaft, ferrule and grip of your choice and you are ready to go. The weight of the heads are right at about 300 grams. The lofts and lies have been consistent. Since experimenting with this first set I have now built probably ten sets of these. Some given to friends, some donated for golf tournament prizes and some sold to golfers in our Mens Golf Association. The heads are soft enough to bend easily if you want to change the loft or lie. Some of Corey Paul’s heads have additional hand grind applied to remove material on the leading edge and or provide additional toe and heel relief. There are some with additional face milling to provide additional spin, but I have found that not to be necessary as I’m getting lots of spin with premium urethane golf balls.
  22. I’ve been fitted a number of times for Driver, Irons, wedges and putters. Most of the time the fitters were limited to OEM fitting carts with stock shafts and a limited menu of upgrades. This past year and a half I’ve taken my club make-up into my own hands and have been encouraged by members of the forum to consider options that were previously unknown to me. I’ve bought clubs and shafts second hand, bought new old stock clubs and have learned how to pull and replace shafts, grips and bend clubs for both loft and lie. A friend of mine had a fitting at Club Champion several months ago. He ended up getting a new driver, irons and putter. All from different brands than he had used previously. His game has dramatically improved since his fitting. It is incredible what a difference it has made, especially with his driver. He would say that it was money well spent. His experience has convinced me to book a driver fitting there so that I can get access to shafts that would otherwise be difficult and very costly to try on my own. I want to try VA Composites, Graphite Design, KBS and Fujikura shafts in my current driver , a PING G410 LST, and am also open to trying other driver heads and shafts if they can improve upon what I already have. I’m paying for their time, their inventory, their knowledge, their launch monitors, and for the ability to try many thousands of dollars worth of shafts and driver heads for only $175. Most likely once I find the combination that performs the best for me I will build the club myself. I recognize that everyone has different needs, but I view the fitting opportunity as a real bargain.
  23. I have been playing the BGT Stability Tour shaft for the past year and a half paired with an Odyssey O-Works Black #7 and a SuperStroke Traxion Tour 3.0 grip with a 75 gram CounterCore weight. The combination has helped me to reduce my putts per round by an average of two strokes per round during that time. One of my playing partners gives me a boatload of s*** because of my non-oscillating putter shaft. He just won’t admit that my putting has improved and that the shaft had something to do with it despite the fact that all of the bets he has lost to me since I’ve gotten it have more than paid for the upgrade.
  24. Well I sold the Tour Edge Exotics CBX 119 with the Evenflow blue 5.5 shaft to a friend and golfing buddy who had lost confidence in his Cobra 3 wood and he is really getting good results with the 4 wood. Much more height, easier to launch and better carry distance. He has a lot more confidence with the new club. How do I know? I play with him a lot and I see him using it frequently now every round whereas the older Cobra he would only reluctantly use. A couple weeks ago I put a new set of irons in the bag to replace the Titleist AP3s after about 700 rounds played with them. The new ones are forged cavity back Corey Paul irons with KBS $-Taper 120g stiff Black finish shafts, BB&F ferrules and Superstroke Traxion wrap Black midsize grips. Vey classy looking. Great feel and fairly forgiving. Just using the 6-PW for now. So far so good, the stiffer and heavier shafts have really toned down my draw. The swingweight is also higher so I have a better awareness of where the club head is. The irons have weaker lofts though so my 9 iron now has similar loft to my old pitching wedge. Have had to strengthen the lofts on my wedges by a couple degrees to fill the gaps. Playing 50, 54 & 58 degree Corey Paul wedges now instead of 52, 56, 60. The Taylormade SIM 5 wood, Tour Edge XCG7 7 wood, Tour Edge C721 5 hybrid and XCG7 6 hybrid round out the bag. Have booked a lesson with an elite instructor about an hour way from my house to discuss my game and what steps to take to get down to scratch.
  25. A 4 utility iron. It is my 15th club now. I bought a Tour Edge EXS 220 #4 utility iron earlier this year. It is remarkable for low punch shots under trees or any time to get under the wind. Super hot face and the ball just runs forever. Good off the tee as well. I bought it for a trip to Ireland and Scotland for links style courses. Unfortunately my trip has been postponed due to Covid travel issues. I carry it in my bag when practicing or playing casual rounds with friends and swap it for my 5 hybrid when playing in a competition if it is windy. It produces the most beautiful stingers! Addicting to hit. Great for bump and runs and for courses that don’t have raised greens. Just not as good as my hybrid for hitting the ball high and landing a ball softly on a green.
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