Calvo90

I need a little input from MGS members. After seeing TXG video about lie board and lie angles of irons and after doing some additional research I decided a couple of months ago to have lie angle of my irons bent from 1* flat to 1* upright. Reason for this was mainly the flight as I was seeing LOTS of pushes on the golf course and range (possibly due to the occasional poor face control) plus static measurements of my height and arm reach suggested that the lie angle of my irons should be 1-2* upright. Also before bending the irons they seemed to sit not on the heel portion of the sole but on the middle or slightly towards the toe portion. It is worth also mentioning I have no access to a lauch monitor to measure dynamic lie angle so I was forced to ''guesstimate'' the numbers. The irons were fine and sat beautifully until I took them to the course. I noticed I lost at least 15 meters of distance with the irons (whereas distance with the woods and hybrids remained pretty much the same) and having serious problems with ball striking especially (but not exclusively) in the long irons which was not the case the previous season. At first I thought it must be my post-pandemic slower than usual swing and I need to work on it. After about 10 rounds on the course, 8 hours on the range with the video and one hour with a pro nothing changed. Direction of the flight is usually nice at the target (with occasional 2 meter pull) but when I was messing around with my posture at address I noticed my ball striking and distance significantly improved if I stood more upright. Also I have some contradictory feedback about the dynamic lie angle. ''Sharpie line on the ball test'' says that the dynamic lie angle is perfectly flat (the line on the club face is completely vertical with no tilt) but when when I look at the compressed plastic residue from range mats on the club soles I notice the material from the mat reaches way further towards the heel than the toe section of the sole. I will post some pictures when I get home from today's range session. Has anyone else experienced such dramatic change in ball striking with just 2* of change in lie angle in their irons? I am thinking of bending the irons back to 1* flat or at least standard lie angle. I am curious about the MGS member's thoughts on the matter. >>sorry for the long post<<

Regular with 105+ mph swing? I have heard that shaft flexes are not universal and sometimes one company's stiff is other company's regular etc. I have also heard that long drive guys often choose stiff shafts despite the fact they are well into TX territory but I don't think that is relevant for mere mortals like us. At least without expert analysis and advice. I am not saying that regular shaft couldn't work for you but it sounds to me that choosing softer flex tries to manage the timing of the shaft. Now, whereas I would (kind of) trust well established fitter's such recommendation after the fitting, I certanly would not trust computer program to asses this kind of thing (especially if it relies on my assesments of my swing). Just my 0,02 USD.

They are also on Cleveland official website: https://www.clevelandgolf.com/us/wedges-/rtx-zipcore-tour-satin-wedge/MRTXZCTS.html

I hope Ping will name its driver G420 and offer Mary Jane green color scheme. Stoners rejoice!

Thinking of going to a bit more friendly setup with replacing 50* Cleveland RTX-3 wedge with Srixon Z565 set 50* gap wedge and for certain occasions (wet weather with muddy fairways) use Titleist 818 H1 21* hybrid set at 22* or 23* instead of 4 iron and Titleist 818 H1 19* hybrid instead of 3 iron to get some additional carry instead of roll out. I also tested Tensei White 90g hybrid shaft in hybrid and I quite like slightly heavier combo. Any thoughts about this setup?

This thread (pun intended) is absolutely outstanding. Thanks for sharing!

I second that. For me S300 felt significantly heavier compared to Modus 105 iron shafts, but Modus 115's feel quite nice.

Great looking bag. What's up with 2 sand wedges? There must be an interesting reason behind it.

I would think again if the regular F7 or F9 Cobra fairway wood is the right club for you. If you are really steep into the ball and dig the club this means you usually have high strikes on the face. Rails on Cobra fairway wood prevent the club from digging but not from high strikes and Cobra fairway woods have the most shallow faces on the market (noticably shallower than taylormade M2 fairway wood). This means if you switch to shallower face fairway wood you could see more high floaters and sky-ed shots and I don't think this is what you want (for more information see a youtube video TXG made about fairway wood face depth) If I were in your position and will be set on Cobra fairway wood I would look more into Cobra Speedzone Big Tour fairway with slightly deeper face and bigger overall profile. If you are steep into the ball this usually requires lower loft so Big Tour should be in your alley (for more information see a youtube video TXG made about playing the right loft in fairway wood). I would suggest that if you have a chance to test Cobra Speedzone Big Tour (or even better have access to a good fitter), take it! I would certainly go this way. This is my 0.02 USD. Hope this helps.

Looks sweet man!

I have to unfollow this thread because I don't think I will be able to resist my temptations for much longer and my wallet would get a whole lot lighter. I envy (and congratulate) you that you can afford changing your equipment like socks...

PW loft at 46* is still pretty normal by today's standards. I would go 50*, 54* and then 58* or 60*. There is a problem with stronger irons, where PW is 44* or even lower. In that case I would choose 48* gap wedge (preferably the same model as PW) and then 54* and 60* (note in my signature I have made a mistake in the past when choosing the lofts of my wedges). These are bigger gaps between shorter clubs than I would usually prefer but thats what you get when buying stronger lofted irons. The only other option I see is a 5 wedge setup (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) but I have never seen a set like this in the wild and I don't think I would go this way. When it comes to woods and hybrids I think it really depends what loft of the lowest fairway wood one can play. If one has enough (but not too much) speed for a 15* fairway wood, then I would go 18* 5 wood or 18-19* hybrid and then something like 22-23* 4 hybrid/iron (depends on the loft and distance of the longest iron). Unfortunately many of us don't have enough speed to effectively play 15* fairway wood from the turf so the better option becomes something like 4 or strong 5 wood (16,5-17*) as the longest wood in the bag. From then sensible gapping is something like 20/21* hybrid etc. At least in my experience and opinion...

That's a whole new lever of ''Hzrdus''. I bet the shaft is stiffer than breakthrough stability putter shaft...

A year or so ago I built myself a hitting net using steel pipes (cheaper than PVC pipes where I come from) wrapped in foam pipe inslation. At first I designed the central panel the size of 2m wide and 2,5m high with attached right side panel of 1,5m wide and 2m high with adjustable angle to the main panel to catch the shanks I was battling with at the time. For the netting I used multiple layers of cheap anti hail net (to protect yineyards, gardens etc.), folded over the top ''rail''. After a month of driving the ball into the net the balls started to penetrate the net so for this year I bough myself tightly woven thick archery net from eBay and decided to slightly enlarge central panel (by 0,5m in width) and ditch the side panel since I managed to cure my shanks. When the wet weather passes I will assemle the whole thing again in my garden and take a few photos.

I like half sets. What's your setup?

Posts like this are the reason why I am constantly reading WITb posts. Hell of a post!

I am more in the middle to low weight group and quite sensitive to weight: I like the feeling of a little heft in the club but too much weight causes the club to be stuck behind me. From that position it is hard for me to release the club and square the face (especially the driver). I get either push/push fades or pulls. I generally err on the side of less weight.

I am currently using just 3 wood lofted to 16.5 degrees so please take my advice with little reservation. From your description it sounds like you are the perfect type of golfer for fairway woods. Generally speaking fairway woods are better for sweepers/people with shallow angle of attack. If you deliver little dynamic loft and play a draw, you can only benefit from clubs with lower and more rearward CG - fairway woods and hybrids that are by design and size close to fairway wood (for example Titleist 818 H1 you currently play). Personally I am quite the opposite so I prefer utility irons and hybrids that are closer to an iron. For more info I suggest you watch the video TXG released called ''Why in the bag? Jose Angel Jimenez''. Jose has still quite decent swing speed but because he has very round and shallow swing, he is very good fairway wood player. I think fairway wood should be better for you because hybrids tend to be more upright and generally slightly more draw biased than fairway woods. Unless you choose bonded hosel fairwa woods I suggest you rather choose lower lofted fairway wood and loft it (hence opening face angle) up using hosel settings.

I see we have a common thing... :D

If you create a permanent epoxy bond that can be loosened only by using heat, there should not be any problem with club conformity whatsoever. Check R&A's The Official Rules of Equipment, section 2: Conformance of clubs, article 2.1a, paragraph (iii): (iii) All Parts must be Fixed This clause means that no part of the golf club should be designed to move, nor should it be promoted as doing so. Once assembled, all parts of the club which are bonded must be bonded such that they require heat to loosen (see Section 1b below for clubs which are designed to be adjustable).

You really don't have many options. If you want to make the clubs lower swing weight, you will either have to shorten them, lighten the heads (unlikely based on the head design and I would not recommend) or counterbalance them. What kind of grips are you using? Assuming you have standard size 50 gram grips, you can switch them for heavier and beefier grips. Something like 67g midsize MCC PLUS4 ALIGN (-3,5 swing weight points)or midsize white 65g Golf Pride Tour Wrap (-3 swing weight points). In standard size the heaviest grip I could find are standard 59g Lamkin Performance Plus with 3GEN Standard White (-2 swing weight points). Some people don't like this method because it is just a scale measurement that does not necessarily translate into feeling in the hands. I hope this helps.

It sounds you went above and beyond to play golf, the game we all love. I can certainly respect that. I hope the new gear allows you to enjoy the game as long as possible.

I own both spiked and spikeless shoes. For warm summer afternoons I prefer spikeless shoes since they are a bit more comfortable, and there is enough traction. But as soon as some moisture is on the grass (morning dew etc.) you can expect to slip. So for me spiked shoes are the general rule and spikeless shoes are the exception to the rule.

You are correct. The masking tape thickness often does not equal the thickness of gripping double sided tape. Some time ago someone on WRX posted dimensions of various tapes. I found it again and posted link to it below. I hope it makes sense.

I have used compressor but i prefer the wet method. With air compressor I found that the parts of the grip tend to move sideways (especially the butt section) and if you have align grips and OCD, it is a nightmare. With wet method there are no such problems and if you want to remove the grip without destroying the grip you can easily do it.