[Air Gun Installed Grip Twist]

I use a mild Dawn Dishwashing soap/water solution from a spray bottle along with the blue 3M 2" painters tape. 1/2 teaspoon soap to 1 qt water and shake well. Add tape wraps to get the proper diameter desired, 4-5 sprays into the grip, pour out in bucket, spritz the taped shaft, work the grip onto the end of the shaft and apply air slowly to slide the grip on. Once it is completely seated, I hold it in place and apply air to blow as much soap solution out from under the grip as possible. The remaining dried layer of soap becomes sticky and does not degrade the adhesive on the tape. Been using this process for years and zero slippage. Grips come off easy too.

BT

[Are grips personal preference or is there more of a science to finding the right grip?]

The only REQUIREMENT for a grip is that it allows the golfer to have a secure grip on the club. Everything else is preference. I URGE all golfers to try all types and sizes as I have found that I play my best with a specific grip of a specific size and taper. Don't be afraid to use buildup tape to get a custom taper as it can matter a lot more than you think. You'll never know what works best if you don't try them.

BT

[To Tee or Not to Tee?]

Driver only unless the tee box literally dirt. Been doing it for 40+ yrs. I never considered a tee a "perfect lie". It was simply a higher lie that allows me to hit up on the ball some.

BT

[The search for driver consistency]

Cool thread. I don't get over here much (hang out in that other forum too much) but wanted to throw some info in here that I recommend to those hunting clubs whether they be drivers, FWs or what. People are very sensitive to weight and typically don't realize it. I see many struggling with a club only to find it is not weighted and/or balanced to their needs. Case in point, My ideal total weight range for driver is 310-350 grams. Ideal MOI is 2990 to 3060. If I get outside those numbers, problems start and get worse the further I go! I have at least 20 drivers in my collection that I can take out and hit fine any time. Only a few have the same shaft and they vary from R to TX and High, Mid and Low launch. I have adjusted the loft to suit the shaft so I get good launch numbers, but shaft profile has never been a big issue for me. One other spec I pay close attention to is torque because it affects my feeling of control with the club. High torque shaft (4° of higher) do not work for me because they just feel too "loose". Like I can't control the clubhead through impact. Probably just in my head, but yet it's there!

All that being said, I NEVER test a club without a roll of lead tape with me. That way I can adjust it if needed and get it in my preferred weight range at the very least. Just something to think about when testing.

BT

[Happy Birthday thread]

Thanks all!

 

BT

[Will a Stroke Lab shaft perform better than a steel shaft?]

On 9/19/2023 at 7:55 PM, cnosil said:

Sounds like you are a professional     The different grasses that you mention are also an issue with PGA pros; some play better or worse based on the grasses they are playing on.  

No, just travel a lot. And, where a professional GETS all their money from golf, all of mine GOES to golf. So I guess that makes me an anti-professional! LMFAO!!!

BTW, I'll post another weird aspect of my putting tonight when I get home and can take some pics of my putters.

BT

[Ball Position - do your eyes deceive you?]

I'm sorry, but IMHO, the ball is on the ground, so I use my feet because they're also on the ground. But, eye dominance comes into play very often. What you must do is calibrate your eyes to see what is really there. Use alignment sticks, paint tape or whatever works, but KNOW where the ball is and your eyes will adjust to see it properly. I check this at EVERY range session and during warmup before every round. Watch the pros on the range and some of them will be doing it too. Another place were you have to constantly check yourself is target/body alignment. Several years ago I started suffering nasty snap hooks where I had been playing a nice draw. I had someone video me from behind and I had gotten SEVERAL degrees off line to the right, causing my path to be way too much in-to-out. Got back to correct alignment and all was good. Since then I ALWAYS use points on the ground to make sure I am actually aligned where I THINK I am.

BT

[UST Mamiya Recoil Prototype 125 Iron Shafts]

I moved from DG S300 Tapers to graphite several years ago and have a set of Recoil Proto 125 in F4 flex. They are a little firmer than the DG, but the torque is a bit higher so that makes them feel very similar TO ME. However, YMMV. It is always best to test one shaft in your favorite head before going whole-hog. BUT..... pay CLOSE ATTENTION to the weighting because it can be differently distributed and will affect performance. I liked them a few SW points higher than the DGs.

Good luck!

BT

[Just received these Graphite Design Tour AD 75 iron shafts from Tourspec golf]

I would suspect that the inside material is for weighting. I run into it often when dealing with graphite iron shaft as they sometimes need it to SW properly with standard weight heads.

BT

[Will a Stroke Lab shaft perform better than a steel shaft?]

9 hours ago, cnosil said:

Sounds like you are doing what you should be doing.   The calibration is essentially building your feels for the day.   I personally just like keeping the equipment consistent from round to round because I believe from my experiences that changing weight impacts more than just the distance control aspect of putting.  

As I always say, to each their own. Incidentally, I travel extensively and experience a high variability in course conditions. Much more than I expect a typical golfer would. I figure that has a lot to do with it. For instance, the first two weeks of Oct. I will be playing in CO, GA, MD & WV with variations in grasses, conditions, elevations and probably weather.

BT

[Will a Stroke Lab shaft perform better than a steel shaft?]

On 9/14/2023 at 10:05 AM, cnosil said:

different weightings has been a suggested approach in the industry, but changing weight will most likely change the dynamics of stroke and how the putter performs beyond just distance control.  There have been a couple of threads on this and some people change weights and some don’t.  It’s a personal decision to figure out what works for you.  I’ve done an Edel fitting and they suggested the weight kit to adjust for green speed.   I personally choose to dial in distance control with the feel of a single putter weight.
 

Can you clarify your struggle?  What is your performance like?  What are your expectations?  How do you practice distance control?  How do you dial it in on the course? 

Not necessarily a struggle, just striving for the highest consistency in every aspect. I tended to come up short more often than usual when facing slower greens (8 or lower). I tried lightening the head by about 10g and it helped as my normal effort equated to slightly more ball speed. In essence, I was able to putt a bit firmer using my normal stroke instead of having to re-calibrate (in my mind) excessively. On any given day, I usually first ask if the practice green compares well with the course greens. If so, I putt several 8-10 foot putts level, uphill and downhill. After that, I work at varying distances out to 40' with a single ball putting out each time to push myself to proper speed judgement. I usually spend about 20-25 mins on the putting green before going to the range. I like to go straight from the range to first tee so that full shots are freshest in my mind. Getting off the first tee well is paramount to a successful round for me.

BT

[Will a Stroke Lab shaft perform better than a steel shaft?]

Curious about this thread because I have Odyssey V-Line mallets with both steel and Stroke Lab shafts. I have identical grips installed on both, they are exactly the same length and MOI. I find I putt well with both and the slight difference in feel doesn't matter to me. I use a SBST stroke with a traditional grip and the lead hand in a strong position (on top of the shaft - player view). My main struggle is speed control on varying surfaces and longer putts (30'+).

In an effort to control this better, I have experimented with the weighting of the head using the removable sole weights (+/-20G). I find the heavier weight helps slow my stroke down on fast greens10-12 stimp) and the lighter weight gives me extra speed when on slow greens (9 and below). So I began carrying spare weights so I can adjust depending on course conditions. My experience is that it has helped with my performance when dealing with varying green speeds in general.

Just curious if anyone else has found success or uses a lighter putter on slow greens and a heavier one for fast greens.

BT 

[Bolt in Driver head dropped out...]

The washers are easy to find. Putting them back on the screw inside the head is actually easy too, if you follow these steps

1. Get a Bic Stick pen and remove the tip so that you have the empty barrel.

2. wipe a thin layer of Vaseline on the open end of the pen barrel and place the washer on the end of the pen with the hole centered.

3. Insert the pen barrel/washer into the club hosel and press it firmly against the base (where the screw hole is).

4. While holding the pen barrel in there firmly against the base, insert the replacement screw through the hole and press until bottomed out.

It will go inside the washer and all will be well. As mentioned a few responses back, check the screw with the adapter before doing this to make sure it hasn't been cross-threaded and in need of replacement.

BT

[Whipping 101]

On 5/9/2023 at 4:13 PM, Eds said:

Could anybody help me to find a supplier that sells Whipping 

Google "Golf club whipping thread".

BT

[Trimming a CB fairway wood shaft]

Build up the grip 1/32" and choke down on it 1/2". You will accomplish the same thing.

BT

[Don’t talk me out of it, just tips please 😛]

The worse things you will have to deal with are the heavy glue line with the shims and the hard taper on the butt end from trimming. Not knowing which shaft it is you're using, measure the parallel butt section to see what type of situation you're getting into. 

There are a ton of good graphite iron shafts that would be a better choice and I would suggest HEAVILY that you consider one of them. Cause like cnosil said, these will feel NOTHING like the ones in your woods. Not even close!

BT

[Upgrading Mizuno MP-15, suggestions]

MP20 MMC. I also have a set of MP15s and that is what I would choose if I were replacing them.

BT

[How long is your shaft?]

My gamer is 46". I have several other 44.75" drivers that I hit well also. The one thing I find extremely important regardless of the length is the proper weighting and balance of the club. It HAS to be right for your swing. Otherwise you will lose distance and/or accuracy period.

BT

[Putting my driver on a diet]

120 mph CHS requires a shaft with a reinforced tip. Most ultralite shafts aren't built that way. But SOME are! The Ventus Black TR 5 X as well as several of the HZRDUS Gen 4 shafts at 60g would probably work. Another option is changing the weight in the back of the driver to something a bit lighter. Weights are easy to find online. You just need to make sure you keep the balance right for your swing.

BT

[Mizuno ST230 Drivers]

Most people worry about resale value (I do not) and it restricts the selection pool for them. I have kept a Mizuno driver in the rotation since the JPX850. My all time favorite is the ST190 and I have hit my longest drives with it over the years. I love the color and I have it paired with an original Diamana Kai'Li Ion blue 70 X @ 44.75". It's one of the straightest and longest drivers I have ever hit. The one thing I think would really be a great add-on for ANY driver and FW is a full assortment of weights to allow the head to be balanced with pretty much any shaft available. 2g increments from 2 to 16 should be fine. Making that a standard thing would give them an edge on just about any other OEM.

BT

[Hitting UP on the ball with driver.]

The swing isn't different, the ball placement is. The guy in the video is simply pointing out what many ams do when they ATTEMPT to hit "up on the ball". I've seen it many times and what he says works to open their eyes.

BT

[Steep Attack w/ High Swing Speed - Are Graphite Too Weak to Game?]

You will have no problem with any of the quality graphite iron shafts on the market. But I stress the word QUALITY! Stick with MRC MMT 105 or 125, Steel Fiber CW (95g or higher), Recoil (proto or new Dart only), and LA Golf. Expect to spend some change, so test them first and make sure you like what you're getting before making the plunge.

BT

[Are we getting fit wrong? Crossfield thinks its a good possibility.]

I was a fitter back in the dark ages. When iron shafts were all steel (TT, Rifle & Apollo), and graphite wood shafts / metal woods were just starting out. Back then, fitting was more about proper flex, length, loft and weighting. I didn't try to put a customer in new clubs every time they came in the door. Most had decent sets that just didn't seem to work as well as they should. These days it seems it's only the EXOTIC stuff that matters. "This head is going to give you SOOOO much more distance!!!" I call BS on all of it because most golfers today, who have a decent set of clubs, only need tweaks to get near optimum. I would bet any amount of money that I could take a driver head from every manufacturer out there, shaft it with the same shaft I use now, weight it so that it is suited for my swing and have them all come in within 2% of each other on distance and dispersion. I can also take any single driver head, shaft it with any shaft that is close to what I like in feel, weight it properly for my swing and get within that same 2%. I LOL when I read someone post that head A works perfectly with shaft B, but it's a hook monster with shaft C (similar flex and profile) with no reference to balance, weight, grip or anything else. Typically, if a golfer has a sound swing, the main thing that will affect consistent ball speed and dispersion is the weighting of the club. I would be surprised if anyone here has ever had a fitter suggest a different grip size, different total weight or different full club MOI. With putter fittings, I have NEVER heard of one recommending a different alignment of the grip other than square. Mine is not square, it is several degrees closed. But I can close my eyes, pick up my putter and place it on the ground square to my stance EVERY TIME! Just because it is oriented to fit the way I hold the putter. Imagine how much that would help most people with their putting? Knowing that it is lined up every time! Fitters should be fitting, not simply moving inventory.

 

BT

[2 wood instead of driver?]

If you slice your driver more than your other clubs, then you need to compare your driver setup (stance, ball position, swing, etc) to your FW setup. Odds are they will be very different. They should not be!

The differences between driver setup and 3w setup should be as follows:

Stance - Feet should be no further apart with driver than with 3w. Weight distribution should be the same, as well as pelvic tilt rearward.

Ball position - NO MORE than 1" more forward in your stance than your 3w from a tee (1.5" 3w from deck).

Tee Height - This can vary depending on the face depth of your driver, but if you sole your driver, the center of the ball should be even with the top of the face (not the crown).

Many have wrecked their driver performance by trying to hit up on the ball TOO MUCH. Plus 3°-4° should be the max anyone tries to get. If you're at plus 3°-4° and your launch is too low, you need more loft. Your swing should literally be the same swing you make with the 3w. Your ball placement will insure the AoA is slightly up since the ball is slightly more forward compared to your 3w. I see many who place the ball A LOT more forward in their stance and not only do they have to make an exaggerated move to just hit the ball, their path is turning so hard left at that point that slice spin is almost guaranteed! Once you check the things listed above and have them correct. Hit some balls swinging just like you were hitting 3w shots. Odds are your shots will not be slicing nearly as much. But, if they are still slicing more than your 3w, check the weighting of your driver. Many drivers are a good bit lighter than FWs. A much lighter club will typically come into the ball more open because the weight is not sufficient to square the club with the same sequencing used to hit the heavier clubs.And it's not just swingweight, it's total weight too. The clubs should feel the same when swung. If they don't, the driver needs to be re-weighted.

 

BT

[The Grip Master Grips]

I've used them for probably 8 yrs now and they outlast any other grip made. They are leather and a bit on the expensive side ($25) if just comparing price. The tackiness claim is true and it varies depending on which grips you get. Classic Wrap being the tackiest. You're limited as to how much you can build them up because the leather doesn't stretch. Two wraps is about the max. I use midsize Classic Wraps and regularly get 2-3 yrs out of them. It's usually the side of the b u t t caps that wear through and I help avoid this by installing a bit of shrink tubing on the sides of the b u t t cap. I love them and won't play with anything else. My son hates them cause they're so sticky. You just have to try some and see what you think.

BT