scott80109

I bought one, and have used it a few times over the past couple of weeks. I love it so far. When I have it on, I flush absolutely everything. Especially when I use the little ball that comes with it. When I take it off, I make some good swings, and some bad ones. Haven't had it long enough to completely ingrain it into my swing, but I'm hoping that with enough use, it will ingrain the proper feels enough to hold up on the course.

@GolfSub70 Are your 7 wood heads back in stock? I just ordered one.

I'd probably try a fishing hat from Costa or Huk. Maybe the straw hats with wide brims. They keep you cooler with the extra shade they provide, are generally pretty breathable, and the straw won't really absorb sweat or show stains.

These work well in drier climates, or in temperatures where you're only sweating a little. I use them in all of my hats here in Colorado. However, I just got back from a trip to the MS Gulf Coast where it was 100+ and very humid. It was completely saturated with sweat within minutes, was uncomfortable to wear, and fell out eventually because it was so heavy. Unless you want to change them out every few minutes, I wouldn't recommend them in Florida.

Same here. Used mine for the first time yesterday. It was pretty disappointing based on a couple of issues. 1) It would not show anything on the GPS screen. It showed in the app, but not on the device. When I pressed the power button for the GPS view, all fields just had dashes. 2) I had a big problem with the yardage on one hole. On a downhill par 3, it gave me a slope adjusted yardage of 145. I hit my 150 club, and flew the green by 20 yards. I'm pretty precise with my distances. Was that yardage adjusted somehow? I play at 6300' elevation, so I don't know if it did some kind of recalibration on the distance, but it was way off. Cost me 2 strokes.

Good points. I believe the R1 app uses real-time weather data from your closest weather station. There are small weather stations everywhere. Most golf courses have several. You can take a look at https://www.wunderground.com/wundermap to see how many weather stations are around you. The closer you zoom in, the more pop up. I’m hopeful that it will be accurate. The rechargeable battery is my biggest concern, but I have a ton of battery packs, so I can keep a couple in my bag.

I just bought one and returned it after 1 round. It is a great laser. Clear view finder, great range, locks onto targets easy. However, there are a couple of reasons I took mine back. 1) It's so heavy, the magnet won't always hold it to the cart frame. I hit a couple of pretty big bumps, and it fell off. Luckily, it fell on grass and didn't get damaged. 2) If you don't live at sea level, and know your sea level club distances, the Elements feature is worthless. It measures distance, temperature, and altitude to give you a "plays like" distance. Unfortunately, this distance is what it plays like at sea level. I live at 6300', so I have no idea what my sea level distances are. So the Elements feature was pretty useless for me, and for that reason I returned it and ordered a Precision Pro R1. I'm hoping that since the R1 lets me enter my actual club/ball data, it will give me the proper compensated distance wherever I play.

Thanks. That is good to know. I just returned my Bushnell Pro XE and ordered the R1. The XE's "Elements" feature was not what I expected. It was giving me the yardage adjusted to sea level. Since I live and play at 6300', I don't really know how far my clubs go at sea level.

@PrecisionProGolf I live at 6300’, and have a couple of questions. 1) When I put in all of my launch monitor numbers, can I put them in for my current location, or do they need to be normalized to sea level? 2) if I do put them in for my current location, will the R1 give me adjusted readings when I go play at sea level? A rangefinder that can do that would be huge for me, instead of trying to calculate the altitude adjustments in my head. It’s quite challenging to know what club to hit when you’re used to playing in the mountains, then try to play in the dense, humid air at sea level.

I wouldn’t recommend them. In my experience, they’re going to try to put you into the most expensive clubs and shafts that they can. Better to find a non-chain fitter, and one that lets you hit outdoors, if possible.

Remote control pull cart Indoor simulator Custom golf cart Membership to Augusta National

I pull out the trusty old Swingyde training aid. Anytime my ball flight starts getting crooked, I hit balls with that on my club and it straightens it back out. I developed such a nasty hook this year I hit balls with it before almost every round to stay on plane and in sync.

I would take him to a different fitter that will find the right shafts for him, and won’t be offended if he takes the specs and shops around. Then I would shop used, or go to Sub 70 to buy new. $4000 for a full bag with premium shaft options sounds about right, but probably overkill for what he needs. Maybe even check out the vendor sites to see if they have any demo days or fitting events. They’ll usually fit you in a stock shaft vs the club fitters who try to put you in the most expensive shaft they can.

I have one 54 degree SW that has a lot of bounce and I play in all conditions. But I have two 60 wedges - a high bounce and a low bounce - that I’ll swap out in the spring when it’s really wet.

On another note, if you’re really struggling with your driver, try a Swingyde. I couldn’t hit my driver at all from January through May. I finally dug out the Swingyde and put it on my driver. It got me back to hitting it long and straight. I warm up with the Swingyde every time I play now, and driving is once again a strength of my game.

I switched to a TSi2 4 wood. I hit it almost as far as my driver off the tee (and dead straight), and it’s easier to hit off the deck than a 3 wood. On tight fairways or short par 4’s, it’s my go to.

I don’t think there’s really anything special about it. Your idea sounds like it would work just fine. It may rattle around a little more by the grip since a regular shaft is tapered. I don’t know if there’s a special channel inside the GG shaft that keeps the diameter the same as the ball bearing. If I had it to do over again, I would probably try your idea first. The GG shaft is graphite, so maybe try a graphite shafted 7 iron?

I have those same wedges in raw, and with about the same number of rounds on them. The grooves look and feel fine to me, but like you, I am not getting any bite on them. I'm thinking it's time for some new ones.

I love Mike Malaska, and have even worked with him in person. But what's easy for him is not easy for everyone. If controlling the club face was easy, we'd all be plus handicap golfers.

- Swingyde: probably the best training aid I own. When my ball flight gets erratic, it usually fixes the problem. - Smart ball - Simple pool noodles and alignment rods

I could never say enough good things about their customer service. How many companies are there where the CEO calls you within an hour of emailing a question to customer service? Jason called me and got custom shafts and grips ordered for me that weren't offered on the website, and for a fraction of the cost that my local club fitter wanted.

Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, it looks like they're sold out everywhere, so I'm going to have to try to find something similar. Looked at the UTX cord grips yesterday, and didn't care for them as much. The Pure grips look like they may be similar. Just need to find somewhere to take a look at them, or order one from them online.

Does anyone know what the blue grips are that come on the JAWS wedges, and if you can buy replacements anywhere?

Follow Gott Golf at Green Valley Ranch. He will be back.

It was $300 for 2 hours, but ended up being about 3 hours, because Mike just loves teaching and talking about golf. This was in Denver at Green Valley Ranch. The golf school there has recently become affiliated with Malaska Golf, learning to teach his method. He was there to play in the Colorado Senior Open, so he put on a golf clinic. The format was 6 guys with him and the 2 golf school coaches. He started us on the putting green, then the chipping green, then the full swing on the range. I got the last spot available, and I'm glad I did. $300 for 3 hours with Mike was a steal. He typically charges $400/hour.