awcarlisle01
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Posts posted by awcarlisle01
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I actually found an article saying the Kuro Kage model was used for Ping Tour shafts and according golfworks trim guide it said remove 3/4”.
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How much should I trim from the tip of a Ping tour 65 wood shaft to make it a 5 wood?
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How much do I need to trim to make areotech I95 regular into stiff?
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How do you hard step .370 graphite irons shafts? I assume you take 5 iron shaft and put in the 4 iron shaft. My real question is how do you hard step the approach wedge if it’s the last shaft in the iron set?
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47 minutes ago, cnosil said:
Have you posted a WITB with photos?
Post a round summary in how did you play.
If you practice, post what you practiced in the practice thread
Thinking about some new equipment post in the what equipment are you thinking about.
Did you buy anything golf related? Tell us in the what did you buy thread.
Those topics should get you to 15 likes pretty quickly.Thanks!!!
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50 minutes ago, sirchunksalot said:
What's in the bag threads are usually pretty popular, if you post pictures. We like the pictures of shiny objects. Also, posting in the How'd You Play thread people will give likes.
Yes I posted there and I guess my setup may not be all that interesting....haha
- sirchunksalot and elvis14
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I really want to give graphite a chance in my irons. After reading this topic and the podcast I convinced myself Sub70 is the best group to work with on this experiment.
Since I am a lefty I order the 699s with Aerotech I70 Stiff flex since I currently play TT AMT Black Regular flex shafts.Also I am at an odd swing speed in my life right now where I am at the borderline of a stiff or regular flex shaft. Since I’m in Alabama and like to walk during the hottest time of the year regular flex steel shafts I feel get me over the hump on 14 - 18. Especially if I decide to play an E9.
Therefore I think going with a lighter weight shaft with with a stiff profile is the best approach to get the additional performance I am hoping for with graphite.
Any feedback or opinions to my line of thinking would be appreciated.
- GolfSub70 and cciciora13
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Curious how long it took some of you guys to become full members? I’ve posted on the forum several time but can’t really figure out what topics gets “likes”. Feedback or good advice would be appreciated!!!
- cnosil, Nateyeight, elvis14 and 5 others
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1 hour ago, aerospace_ray said:
Don't know if this really answers what you are searching for but I wanted to share.
I have used both shafts but not the club heads. From my experience, the Steel Fibers, specifically the I70 you reference should yield higher ball flight than the TT AMT Black's.
I like the TT AMT series and the black spec is true to mid ball flights with good spin imo. The TT AMT Blacks actually felt very balanced during my swing.While the TT AMT Blacks were heavier, I liked the feel a little better but again thats my experience.
Imo the Steel Fibers yield a firm feel regardless of flex at least to me. Feel is subjective. The Steel Fiber I70's being lighter contributed to a firm head heavier feel during my swing. I actually switched to I80's to get a more balanced feel I wanted while still saving a few grams total club weight from "like" steel shafts I was testing.
This is exactly the feedback I was looking to get. Did you get the I80s in Stiff or Regular.
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On 5/26/2020 at 6:11 PM, jayjay0808 said:
The old school Prolaunch Red was amazing! Had an 07 Burner TP with that in a X-Stiff. Straight up bomber... Sadly I used it so much I put a ball through the face
I hate being left handed because trying find something old school like that is in half way decent shape is very limited on eBay.
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Curious what you guys opinions were on my current gamers iron shaft TT AMT Black regular flex in T200 vs Sub 70 699 with Aerotech Steel Fiber I70 stiff flex I just order?
In my opinion going with the stiff flex in the graphite light weight shafts will match up closer to the heavier regular flex steel shafts in my gamer irons.
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It doesn’t launch like it use to according to the new specs.
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I am looking for options similar to Prolaunch Red in .355 for my 3 wood. I’ve been playing Adams A3 OS hybrid from 2007 and completely bombing the club with that shaft.
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20 hours ago, ObsessiveIndecisive said:
So with everything on lockdown, I have a simple net setup in my backyard. Since I have no way to know ball flight, I am focusing on impact. Using foot spray, I am doing something similar to the following:
- Setup center, hit toe side
- Setup center, hit heel side
- Setup toe, hit center
- Setup heel, hit center
- Setup center, hit center
I have been toying around with vertical impact as well, putting a ball on a tee and repeating the drills.
Does anyone have other impact drills I can add to the mix as this gets pretty boring after 45 minutes!
Take tape and put one long strip down your target line and then one on either side. The goal is start the ball every time hitting on each side of the center/target line but not too far. This helps with Practicing shot making and stock shot.
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On 3/27/2020 at 6:29 PM, pozzit said:
Im trying to test out shafts for the Maltby clubs I put together and can't seem to get the head off. I've been trying to get an Apex Pro head off, I used a butane torch for gradually it to 3 solid minutes of flame with rotating shaft every 10 second or so.
I also have tried a heat gun on it with 10 minutes of heat getting the head above 200F and it's still no movement at all. Anyone have any suggestions on different method or any chemicals to help release it.
Using MyGolfSpy mobile app
I use MAP gas and it’s the yellow bottle at Home Depot. Pulls heads super fast.
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On 3/30/2020 at 6:16 AM, Calvo90 said:
Just another advice when using pipe cutter: When you decide to cut the shaft, insert another junk shaft into the shaft you intend to cut to support it from the inside. It can be steel or graphite, it doesn't matter. Especially light-weight shafts tend to ''oval'' if you putt a little bit too much of a sqeeze on them and you can end up with inprecise cut because the pipe cutter wandered off the desired line. The additional support prevents the shaft from ovaling and makes the whole process pretty much without any risk.
I spent about $100 on a Dewalt chop saw from Lowe’s and it’s cut my shaft cutting on all materials in half and improved the accuracy of the cuts. I wish I had made that purchase sooner.
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Does anyone know if there is a online school for club building now besides YouTube?
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On 2/22/2020 at 7:57 PM, tony@CIC said:
My short game practice is pitching and chipping onto a green - on average about 50 balls then I putt those. After my putting practice my back really hurts. I was reading an article the other day about Rors adding an inch to his putter to eliminate back problems. I was debating adding 1-2 inches to see if that helps.
Has anyone tried lengthening their putter for back issues and has it helped? If you have how much did you add?
Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy
Yes and I made several armlock putters. Then went to my local golf shop to have them adjust the lofts for the forward press. Sadly my putting did not improve like it did with belly putters back in the day. The nice thing is I am a lefty and due to their rarity I made a little coin off them on eBay.
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Thanks for the ideas
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Lefty from Alabama,
Handicap 5.2
Driver Ping G400 10.5 nutted down to 9.5 with Hazardous 6.0 60g
3wood Sim Max full OEM standard specs Stiff flex
3hybrid Sim Max full OEM standard specs Stiff flex
4-AW Titleist T200 TT AMT Black Reg flex stock grips 1.5 Deg flat standard OEM lofts
54 Vokey SM8 Wedge TT AMT Black Reg flex stock grips 1 Deg flat standard OEM loft
60 Vokey SM7 Wedge TT AMT Black Reg flex stock grips 1 Deg flat standard OEM loft
TM Spider X putter with OEM grip and 34” long
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I’m in the same boat and something important to keep in mind is keeping it calibrated and buying something that is accurate. I’ve had Club Champion who uses Mitchell digital lie and loft machines check what a older Mitchell manual machine adjustment did and the manual was off. After learning how often their equipment is calibrated and the fact my adjustments are for my own clubs, I want it to be
right. Therefore this is something you don’t want to go cheap on. If you decide to buy a used one on the bay send it to Mitchell to be tuned up or your going to buy a bunch of problems. If you decide to go new here’s an alternative to Mitchell https://mr3golfdesigns.com/
I hate to say it but until the cost, convenience, and quality can be met I’m paying someone else to adjust my clubs.
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If you haven’t spent the money for a club puller you’re wasting your time. However I use a map gas torch aka yellow bottle from your local hardware store and it cuts the time in half or more. If I didn’t have a puller this is what I would use first. Fortunately I have both and no problems ever!!!
left handed fitting
in Club Making/Repair & DIY Projects
Posted
I am a lefty and used Club Champion here in Birmingham, AL and what I liked is they use a 6 iron. In my humble opinion, if I can hit your hardest to hit irons which long irons the rest of the bag can usually come together. I would also stay away from 7 irons because the club manufactures know this is the testing club and are really jacking around that club’s basic design.
A different approach to demoing is buy single irons off eBay from a reputable seller. Make sure the seller tells you all specs before buying. Also if you know some of the basics of club fitting or some of your own specs can help with this process. I believe Club Champion club fitting can be $300+ for a full bag fitting and that kind of money can buy several single irons to test as long as you like. Also most golf shops will be happy to confirm the specs of the test clubs for free and if a lie or loft adjustment is needed they’ve adjusted it for free for me.