adamflowers

According to Nippon’s website, the Modus 115 Wedge flex comes in at 122g. Comparable weights (120g) from the above list would include: any of the KBS’s in Stiff (except the High Rev 2.0 which comes in at 125g), Project X 6.0, or Nippon Modus 120 X.

If the time and cost commitments of a fitting/ordering new clubs don't bother you, I would recommend that option. A 5-year layoff, let alone any latent injuries or discomfort from an accident, is enough to make me wonder if I'm going to need something quite different than I was used to playing. Glad that you're back playing, and I'd do yourself a favor and see a fitter.

Which kind of shafts do you mean? Irons, woods, hybrids?

I’d imagine the optics of saying that their balls lacked quality control but still performed well are bad. I’d just be interested to see the tangible performance differences. If you gave 10 golfers perfect and off-center cores, how does it affect distance, spin, consistency, etc. in their wedges, irons, and woods? Just a thought.

I was honestly surprised to all the negative reactions to the ball after the test. It’s one thing if these were already selling at $30/dozen, but at HALF of that, I still think it’s an unbelievable deal. Call me a conspiracy theorist, but have there been tests, on MGS or anywhere else, that show the performance issues caused by “bad balls”? I’m not so sure that the majority of defects in a batch of balls would be noticeable to anyone but the tour pro.

For what it's worth, TXG has stated multiple times on their channel that they do not buy into the high ball compression - high swing speed correlation.

Are you looking at a particular model or manufacturer? Companies like Cobra and Titleist are probably not releasing their new woods until late in the season or the offseason. I’d say wait if you’re interested in those. The Titleist TS series are discounted now, though. If you don’t think you can get significant practice in over the winter with the new clubs, I’d say wait. But if you can get to the range often, I’d take advantage of the discounted models now.

The problem with this dilemma is that is will ALWAYS happen, regardless of when you purchase your clubs; there are always going to be new clubs on the horizon. For me, it comes down to one thing: how important your budget is to you. If budget plays a big part in your decision, I'd buy when the current year's model's price drops. If budget doesn't matter, then go ahead and wait for the new models! There shouldn't be a huge leap in technology between the two years. But, remember, no matter when you choose to upgrade, this problem is bound to arise!

I'm not sure what to tell you about them besides what you can learn by googling them. They're definitely on the heavier end as far as driver and fairway wood shafts go, but, at your swing speed, you could even go heavier. The shafts have different launch profiles, as @csamsh said. If you want a lower launch on your driver and a higher launch on your fairway woods, the combo seems okay. If you'd prefer lower, I'd recommend you go with the Atmos Blue or Black variants. At your swing speed, though, I'd imagine it would be difficult to find heavy, stiff shafts that don't launch low.

I know you are probably comfortable with the S300's, but DON'T BE AFRAID TO TRY NEW AND DIFFERENT SHAFTS. I think you might be surprised by the feel and performance of the lightweight shafts that are made these days. Enjoy the experimentation; it's a big part of the fun for me!

It's possible that they change in "lettering" could be a marketing strategy toward the stronger player. I'd imagine the stronger player would prefer "toe and heel" instead of "fade and draw," as "fade and draw" implies that they can't control their shot shape! That's just my guess, but I do think they have the perfect combination of classic, minimal looks and tech. Sign me up!

Hi Evreyone, I am currently in the market for new iron shafts, and I'm a big fan of the Modus 120 X. Before I bite the bullet and purchase them, however, I would like to try them in TX flex. Does anyone have any recommendations for testing the tour variant flexes? I haven't been able to find them at any fitters. Thanks!

I don't have personal experience with the two irons, but, for an average spin player, the ability to hold greens should be neglible between the two. Additionally, the G425 cycle should be coming out relatively soon, so it might be prudent to wait and compare with those.

yep, I believe that soft-hard combination is correct.

My understanding is that the urethane cover is softer, and this allows for more friction on the clubface, i.e. more spin.

I wouldn't be surprised if it came out after the release of the new Pro V1 line. Considering they're still widely considered the golf ball gold standard, it would seem like a mistake not to include the new versions.

My experience has been that if there is a completely flat and uniform surface between the Mevo and the ball (such as a flat driveway), 6 feet works well. If there isn't, around 4 feet works best. Also, at 4 feet, I find that it doesn't work well when you place the Mevo directly behind the ball; you should place it ~3-4 inches above or below the ball, depending on your handedness and shot shape.

I'm a big fan of the Tensei line of shafts. For your preferences, I'd specifically recommend the Pro Orange or White. Here's a link to all of Mitsubishi's offerings: https://issuu.com/mitsubishichemicalgolf/docs/mca-mca_2020-catalog-v11.1?ff=true

Nathan Fielder, is that you?

Hi Everyone, I’ve been leaning more lately into my gear-junkie tendencies, and I’m trying to try as many iron shafts as I can. Beyond paying for a fitting and testing 3-5 shafts, what would you recommend is the best way for me to get to hit the widest variety of iron shafts I can? Thanks!

Has anyone used the Lamkin ST+2 Hybrid grips? I'm looking at them as an alternative to the MCC+4's.

Imagine how good you gave to be to hit JACK’s Miuras? I’d be afraid to hit them in front of anyone!

I've used the 2020 TP5 Pix ball. None had any misprints, and I'd imagine you could contact Callaway/Taylormade/etc. if there was an obvious misprint that affected the performance of the ball. I liked the Pix tech, but I found that it was harder for me to find my ball in the rough compared to a white or yellow ball.

I went from M2’s to iBlades. The feedback on shots was what I noticed the most. It’s much easier with blade-type irons to feel where you’re hitting the ball on the face. I’ve found that’s very helpful in understanding your swing and ball flight.

I would think about the progression of your golf game: do you think you will be practicing and improving your swing and speed over the course of the near future? If so, I'd grab the Stiff because it's a shaft you can grow into. If not, which is obviously totally fine, I'd grab the Regular, assuming you like them both equally.