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Subdiver1

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Everything posted by Subdiver1

  1. This is a very interesting thread for me/us since we have been debating on whether to buy or not to buy for the FL house. Right up front, I prefer to walk when I play, but we have the same "issue" some others have noted about course layout and policies toward walkers. Also, I can only drive to one of the 3 courses in our immediate area and there is no point in really trailering a personal cart 5-10 miles to the other courses. The annual membership is about $450/year less with your own cart vs. including a club supplied cart. Is it really worth the $450/year to have to keep/maintain my own cart? That asked, is it really all that much better to take the cart vs. the car tot eh store, range, putting green, restaurants etc.? If so, that would be an offset to car maintenance and wear/tear. The couple of places we talked to seem to be really fixated on Yamaha and Club Car with EZGO a no so distant 3rd place and they only have a couple here and there. Being coastal FL one of the salesman discussed the aluminum vs. steel frame issues that has already been mentioned. He recommended Club Cr for electric and Yamaha for gas since the Yamaha motor is significantly quieter than the Club Car or EZGO (as an aside, he was the second guy we talked tom on a separate day and was the company owner's son, who was working in a satellite shop during the holiday weekend to supplement regular staff getting the holiday off; how is that for ownership). Anyway, my thoughts on gas vs. electric are as follows: Gas + If it runs out of juice I can always grab a can somewhere, or have somebody grab one, to add a gallon in to get it home vs. having to get it towed or trailered (from either the local shopping center or the course) + No chance of an Li-Ion explosion taking half the neighborhood out - Maintenance. If the gas motor fails, rebuild it cheap, but you have to maintain the motor to keep it going. + Longevity? How many years/miles can you get out of a gas cart vs. having to change batteries every 3-5 years. + Initial Cost/Investment - Li-Ion is a pretty significant uncharge Electric + Quiet + Don't have to worry about running to the gas station or keeping a jug filled in the garage -/+ Maintenance, if the batteries fail replacement cost is , but don't have to worry ab out the gas motor maintenance issues. - initial Cost/Investment, see above All that said, I also look forward to reading more peoples thoughts on the topic. And if we buy, I'll add it here. Thanks MGS community.
  2. Where we are at it is all codified in local statutes. Those laws dictate street vs. widened sidewalks, pedestrian ROW (right of way), intersection rules, age restrictions (including seatbelts, and hanging out of the carts vs. being seated) etc. Great to know the rules in order to be able to follow them; of course it helps when others follow those rules too. Good luck.
  3. We bought a place in central east coast FL where the kids over 14 can drive carts and drive them to school. The high school is loaded with them during the school day when school is in session, it is kind of ridiculous. One of the local shops told us they have parents coming in and dropping $16-20K on carts for their kids to commute to school (instead of buying cars, so I guess that kind of makes some sense, maybe). Anyway, the kids are often NOT following the "rules" that have been codified in local statutes. We were heading out of the neighborhood one afternoon and two young girls came flying across the entrance/exit road without stopping or looking; if my wife hadn't been paying attention and decided to slow down "in case" she didn't stop they would no doubt be D-E-A-D dead from t-boning us. I am still up in the air about getting one, but I do think that there should be some way of identifying whoever is driving these so, especially when it is kids, that anyone who experiences an issue like this can call the parents or the police and have it all addressed, before some kid gets dead from being a kid. Anyway, eyes open and twice as aware in these places. People are stupid.
  4. Concur somewhat with GrahamB1967 about impact tape deadening the feel so while I it provides location of impact I just didn't like the feel. I found that athlete's foot spray gives me good feedback across the board (no "deadening," multiple shot feedback) through several shots and the benefit of not having to scrape tape residue off the club face. I never though about wax, chalk or DE markers and I never thought consider foot spray was "messy;" it goes on clean and wipes off easily with a damp or wet towel, but hey, whatever works for you. At least now I have some other ideas for feedback during a range session that isn't going well with no foot spray to be found. Cheers gents.
  5. Hooyah brother, I don't even know if I still fit in my Choker Whites, but they are stashed in my shadow box and honestly I won't even wear a white t-shirt since I retired. Hope retirement is treating you well Shipmate.
  6. Used to have a pair, but never actually wore them and got rid of them a while back. White and I do not pair well. I am interested in seeing the results of your poll though.
  7. WOW!!!! There are a lot of...processes here. I get it, everybody has found something that works for them. Probably the best advice here is to get out of your own head. The second best item I read was, ignore the hole and develop confidence in your stroke and feel. Not knowing what conditions you play in or what your stroke looks like mean no one will really be able to give you any solid advice on how to fix your putting game. Get with a pro for some lessons, be prepared to change what you think is working; because it obviously isn't or you wouldn't have opened this thread. It is easy for all of us to tell each other not to have negative thoughts; that we need to think positive, project positive auras, fangs shway your way to a more positive vibe with the spirit world and all of that, but telling each other to think positive is like a guy who lives in Alaska telling a guy who lives in Florida that 55 degree wind is warm and he should just not think he is cold in 55 degrees; easy for the guy who lives in 20 degree weather, not so realistic for the guy who comes from 90 degrees. I don't read greens so much as I "feel" them. I have a couple of drills that I like, and there are days where everything feels right on the practice green, but nothing feels right on the course; RARELY is my putting issue caused by a difference between the practice green and the course, it something I am doing with my stroke; TYPICALLY, it is my grip. TYPICALLY I am gripping too tight and I cannot get fluid; alternatively, I might have the ball back, or away from me an inch or so, and that throws contact and line off. I can show up at a new course and run through my drills for 30 minutes or so and I am typically able to consistently keep my putts from being outside tap in range unless I really miss a read or grain comes into play that I missed. If I am missing my lines or making bad contact, I go back to the basics and check my set up; if set up is good I do target drills through sets of tees at farther and farther distances. If that is all working then I trust myself on the course. If I miss one out there, I don't start changing things, I go back to basics and I trust myself. But that is what works for me. Until we know what you are actually doing no one can really tell you what is going to help you trust your stroke on the course. The discussion of disparity between practice greens and course greens is bupkis, IN MY OPINION (I capitalize that so everyone sees that I am owning it as MY Opinion and not asserting it as concrete, scientifically proven fact). IMO, if you can putt off season on a mat and benefit on the green as the season opens, then it doesn't matter if the practice green is an 8 and the course is a 14; that's like saying that the reason your distances are off on the course is because you hit range balls on the range before teeing off. Malarkey! I say. Putting on the practice green should give you an idea for the course, but it is all about warming up and getting comfortable with your stroke that day, just like a warm up on the range. Unless the practice green has no grain and the course has serious grain you still get a feel for your stroke and for the course. Grain is the one thing I see people struggle with that they cannot overcome without being on a course with grain. When a players is not used to playing greens that have a grain (like up here in the PNW) and then they show up to play courses that have grain in the greens, their game goes to he11 in an instant as does their trust in their putting; because they have no idea what it feels like to have the same 3 foot put on a flat spot go 2 feet past the hole in one direction and stop 2 feet short in the other. No amount of putting on a mat to your local practice green will prepare you for grain unless your local practice green has grain to it. So, what do you do? Work with someone who can see what you are doing and develop that confidence through practice and results; not by counting "reasonable putts that could/should have dropped" and believing that you are better than the evidence says you are. Best of luck.
  8. I have an old, sun bleached, khaki boonie hat with the shotgun cartridge loops and brass vents that Inused to wear religiously on the course. It was greatbin the sun and kept the PNW rain off my face and neck. Even after getting drenched in a downpour. I wear ball caps more often that not these days, but I still have that "bucket" of a boonie hat floating around and I occasionallybrealize I should probablybbe wearing it instead of a ball cap. Like equipment, whatever works for you should be what drives your choice. I'll keep an eye out for guys in bucket hats on the links, maybe it will be you. Cheers.
  9. I read though this as I was reading other articles/posts and when I caught your comment on putter weight to speed matching it rang some faint recollection of the exact opposite; so I did some more reading. Seems that depending on who you talk to, there can be conflicting schools of thought; below is a link to one pro who believes heavier for faster (which happen to agree with; but then I just like a heavier putter). https://www.csgalinks.org/content/csga/links-lessons-weight-gain-for-speed-control Anyway, whichever way you go I personally believe that putter weight is all personal. Nothing wrong with having a few generic "rules of thumb" to start with, but in the end what works better for you may not be what works for the general population. May the wind be always at your back and may the rain hold off until you are back in the club house,
  10. I ordered a dozen of the Tour and TourX balls to try (Tour in the cold and Tour X as the weather warms). As much as I like the Snell as an alternative to the expense of the ProVs I have to say that the Maxfli's have performed outstanding in both cold and warmer weather, distance, short game control and putting feel are great.
  11. Tony@CIC, funny you mention ordering the Shotscope V3. I have been playing with it for a little over a year and the only real issue I have (not that it is "small") is accuracy. Once I got used to remembering to set up a provisional shot or add a penalty things went pretty smoothly. But I seem to always have to edit locations, ESPECIALLY pin locations; for me this was more frustrating than just seeing the fairway and approach shots off location. Anyway, chose Shotscope because it meant I didn't have to carry my phone in my pocket and it seemed more...seemless. I recently got an offer to get all of the Arccos for free because I own a Ping club so I paid for the Shot Link in hopes the accuracy will be better. Reading this thread I am skeptical. Reading your note, I hope you like the Shotscope. I'd be interested to hear your comparison. Cheers, Scott
  12. This post is GREAT!!! My wife thought I was nuts when I said I would bring clubs with me and it was a go- no go for me. How could any golfer NOT bring a set of clubs when shopping for their next car?
  13. Holy cow, I had this happen this spring to my G400 with the Evenflow Black 60 stiff shaft. The shaft was in my G400 for almost 3 years. I got a replacement and after 3 rounds the same issue occurred. That shaft has been discontinued, but Inwas able to get a 3rd one and that one is holding up, so far. Too weird that this topic popped up now though.
  14. Greg and @discipleofpenick funny I was thinking the other day about this thread and the 'left dash' but I recall disciple liking the softer feel vs. the firmer ball. I had a buddy give me a left dash and didn't feel like it was all that firm/clicky, but that is definitely something that is personal preference; I do lie the feel of the AVX and now you guys have me wondering about whether the distance is carry or roll out. Now I am going to have to get out and see of I can get a comparison going.
  15. Gotcha. Thanks for making it a discussion and not a contestation. Yes, agree, bounce and sole width are not mutual, they can be separated. I like the thin line and sharp leading edge so I can pick the ball off tight lies, or cut through wet turf without bouncing off and thinning or skulking shots, but I do realize that is what works for me, and in most of the conditions I play. Oh God, Callaway and BB are like asking me if I'd want liver and onions or tripe for dinner . I couldn't hit the old BB metals; buck hooked them so bad the ball went left and circled back around and landed 2" to the right of where I originally hit it from. I will, however admit, that I hit the Apex last year and found them to be very playable, looked good at address and felt good on contact. The old Ping Eye 2 was another club I could never feel comfortable behind; guess we could add that to the Executive as a 70s-80s alternative to blades. The I500 was another iron that I found attractive and nice to hit. Thanks again.
  16. Kind of like what dkeonig mentioned about spin rates, it may be that you are losing distance because of spin and the low spin design of the AVX helps out. I see you are a 4 HDCP so I would assume you've already considered that, but since you hadn't mentioned whether spin was a factor... I am not sure how much of a universal fix a ball change is? My driver swing speed is also in the 105 range and I like the feel and distance of the AVX as well, but I don't feel like I have as much control around the green. Then again, maybe I am missing something. Great discussion.
  17. Hmmm, more side spin but less offline with the Ping Forged. Interesting. I know I am typically left of my line with my T20s. I need to hit the lottery and get me a Trackman! Thanks for the data.
  18. You REALLY confused me here. Forgiveness comes from numerous aspects of design, not just "from the sole." I believe the entire 'perimeter weighing' factor contributes overall. Just having a wide sole to help put the weight lower in the club head and possibly move it back provides an opportunity to engineer in better launch characteristics and a "larger sweet spot," but if all it took to have a more forgiving club was a wide sole Nike might still be making clubs. Swing type and conditions play a role in whether a player should consider a wider or thinner sole. A thinner sole has less chance of bouncing off the turf allowing players who hit the ball first to 'pick' the ball cleanly; thick soles may be advantageous where you find fluffy lies or the ball sits up, but God forbid you have wide soles and thin/tight lies. A sweeping swing may do better with a wide sole where there is less chance the sole will 'bounce' and cause thin contact. When I started playing it was pretty hard to find anything but blades (except maybe Spalding's Executive irons; anyone remember those?). I played a set of '86 Titleist blades until the early 2000s, now those heads look so small next to a ball I wonder how we ever hit them pure. The Rescue club was a great development and they are great for many shots, including long shots out of a fairway bunker, but I still cannot get into a thick top line and wide soles; for me they bounce like a saucer sled skidding across the snow causing more skulled than pure shots. But again, that is my preference.
  19. @greggarner the Pro V became the lower spinning and the '1x the higher spinning ball with the 2017 versions. I thought all the 'x' versions followed that but a little reading shows the TP5x is, while high spinning around the green, lower than the straight TP5. You'd think everyone would follow some level of standardization to help the rest of us out but...
  20. Yes it matches that lab, but as noted later in the thread MGS changed the equipment they are testing compression with and the results are more consistent now.
  21. Shawn welcome back to the game. I can relate as kids and deployments during a military career definitely kept me away from the course for a long stretch. Coming back into golf after being used to Titleist Professional 90s or 100s as the standard for golf balls and watching the Pro's face as he tried to explain to me that golf balls had changed and compression wasn't a reference point anymore must have been very humorous to those around me. So, all of that said, you can see my WITB listing shows some similarities. My G400 driver, which might become a ZX7 soon even though I love my Ping. On the 3w and hybrid I cannot say anything good enough about my M3 and M4 and shaft combos. Both are great, workable clubs. I have a couple of buddies who have been Vokey stalwarts for years, but the recently switched to TM and Mizuno wedges. I went to the T20s from Cleveland RTX3s a couple of years back and I love 'em. Welcome back to the game.
  22. goaliewales14, I moved from Clevelands a couple of years ago now to Mizuno T-20s and I haven't looked back. BUT, I really like the numbers on the Ping forged. Especially the side spin #. What strikes me funny is that you have 3-5x more side spin on the other wedges (from the Ping forged), but the dispersion is not all that much wider; granted travel distance on a 50 year shot doesn't leave much time to go off-line; would like to see the sidespin and off-line numbers for the 80 yard shots. All that said, I agree, I love my T-20s and it would be interesting to see those compared with your ES21s as well. Thanks for the data. Cheers
  23. Some interesting commentary here. We have had some good discussion on such situations at courses up here. I blew a match this weekend by playing overly aggressive instead of playing it safe, after cutting two shots earlier with the same club. In my opinion, what I FAILED to consider was not that I was being aggressive vs. conservative/safe, but that I had already cut two shots with that club and that it was safer to be left even of I did "pull" the shot or hit it straight vice serious trouble if (inevitably) I did cut it again. So, failing to set up left of the target I opened myself up to that right side, again, and all of the trouble there. All of that said to lead to this; I haven't seen (maybe I missed it) anyone recommend teeing up on the right side of the tee box and setting up to play your normal shot. A very consistent, solid single digit player I knew often told me to always set up on the side where the trouble is (water on the right, set-up on the right, trees on the left, set-up on the left). The tee box isn't in the pic so it is hard to evaluate how much room you might have. I did notice it has been discussed that a 50-yard wide target is actually pretty large; that considered, setting up on the right does two things for you, it improves your likeliness of not being in that trouble right, and it gives you a line (more room) that sets upto avoid the tree on the right, even if you do pull (a bit) vs. your normal cut. The other recommendation/advice I don't see is something that I try to remember, in all cases, 'when there are hazards that are meant to draw your attention, pay attention not to the hazards, but to the place you want your shot to end up; see the target not the problems around it.' All too often when we focus on the problem. Doing so, we set ourselves up to end up IN the problem area because A) that is where we focus, and B) the doubt we will mess up creeps in and makes us change something, which causes us to mess up, instead of executing smoothly and correctly. This game is 90% mental. I don't see your hybrid shot shape and consistency discussed. What about, as asked, the difference in your driving and approach percentages? Those should be considered. With your shot shape and distance I think I would be most concerned with getting into the trees at ~220 on the right, but again, I would think your best percentage approach would be to tee up on the right and set up/line up just right of that tree short left (again, I cannot see the tee box so I am not sure how much room you have to work with or if you have a already started on the right side). Option A) Tee it up on the left side, line up right of the tree you are concerned with to the left, focus on the area you want to land it, hit the 100-110 approach shot to 5 feet and make the birdie. Interesting discussion; let us know what worked and what didn't? Cheers
  24. I can't wait to see the MGS review or test opportunities for this new Voice Caddie rangefinder WITH GPS. The green contour is really intriguing.
  25. Scott/Poulsbo WA 11.5 Sketchers Go Golf Pro Comfort and stability, I walk 90% of the time so I need to be able to walk 36 holes on a weekend and not feel like I want to cut my feet off after 18 and I need to feel connected to the ground when I swing. That can be a challenge with some shoes. As a runner I know shoes matter, that sentiment is validated in golf.
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