Jump to content

Grit Golf

Member
  • Content Count

    187
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

223 Excellent

About Grit Golf

  • Rank
     
  • Birthday 03/17/1987

Contact Methods

  • Twitter
    Joekneale
  • Instagram
    Kneale216

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cleveland, OH
  • Interests
    Golf tech, club fitting, club assembly/repair
  • Handicap:
    16
  • Referred By:
    Google!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That could be perfect, if you already play s300 in your wedges those will blend perfectly.
  2. The answer is True Temper Dynamic Gold AMT (ascending mass technology). The shafts get lighter as they get longer (instead of heavier), the flex will remain the same, but the set is also slightly flighted to promote higher launch for more carry in the long irons. I get along with X100 AMTs despite having an R300 swing speed, the tech is that significant.
  3. I had one for a bit, and actually talked to Dean Knuth about the tech. The face tech is no BS, the face is hotter when you are NOT in the sweet spot, for me though ball speed ended up not being the most important factor, and I ended up moving on to something to neutralize my tendency to hook!
  4. I bought a few ping g400 crossovers at the right price and put them on the launch monitor with the stock Alta CB 70 soft regular (Softer than I would play). The 22 degree 4 crossover is an absolute rocket launcher. On a smoked shot it was challenging my 4w in distance, but with the soft shaft it was spraying left and right. I thought to myself, this thing would be perfect with my iron shafts, more control and less distance would absolutely fit the bill. So, I pulled the altas, glued in my gamer iron shaft and COULD. NOT. HIT. A. SHOT. I waited a day, warmed up, and just could not get anything out of the combo. In desperation I pulled the steel shafts and threw in a graphite hybrid shaft I’ve had success with in the past and soft stepped the tip. All of a sudden I was absolutely smoking these again and they were insanely easy to hit. Lesson learned, if Ping puts a graphite shaft in something as stock, there’s probably a good reason for it.
  5. I’ve watched a few comparisons between the G410 and the outgoing G400, for most golfers, the 410 launches higher with less spin, which nets more carry yardage and more distance. My question for anyone with experience with these two is this: for the average swing speed (say 85mph 7i) does one model hold greens better than the other? Assuming urethane balls (vice pro). I can see the extra spin on the G400 being an edge in green holding, but I could also see steeper descent from a higher flight in the 410 countering it out? Edge to the 400 for anyone wanting to reduce a draw or fade, edge to 410 for anyone wanting a few extra yards carry?
  6. Grit Golf

    Check - Go usage

    I just tried floating golf balls in water and epsom salt to see if the ball would fight to have one particular side float to the top (the theory is that that would mean the ball is out of balance). What I found was that 1/24 mid range balls (Srixon q star tour and cally super hot) were actually balanced. If the check go thing works, that means, in theory, that aligning them with a check go would make a difference. How much of a difference I can’t say at all. I tested a few urethane balls (pro v1 392 and top flite gamer tour) and they were almost all in balance, which I think means marking them w a check go wouldn’t really matter. Unless you are playing lift clean and place, playing an out of balance ball from the fairway on your second shot with the alignment line pointing the wrong way seems like it would hurt my confidence over that shot. I’ve never been a ball snob, but the balance test I did (however scientific it actually was) has me considering spending more per dozen.
  7. I’ve never been a ball snob until the most recent no putts given podcast. I usually play either Srixon Soft Feel or Srixon Q Star. The point the MGS guys made was about ball quality and consistency, which I’d never really considered. With that in mind I decided to test the Q Stars (my go to) to see how balanced they were by floating them in water and epsom salt (if the center of gravity isn’t in the center of the ball one side of the ball will always fight to float to the top). 0/12 of the Q star tours were in balance. For perspective, 1/12 Callaway superhots was in balance, 1/12 Srixon soft feels, and 9/12 Top Flite Gamer Urethane were in balance. It has me thinking about moving on from this price point!
  8. Joe / Cleveland Ohio Cleveland RTX4 60• (low)
  9. That's awesome that yours is rolling pure! My ruler has a .300" hole (not counter sunk) - either the extra 175 thou's in diameter, or the lack of a chamfered edge (probably both), definitely "grab" the ball. Just a heads-up for other DIY'ers!
  10. My skytrak (camera based) likes LED bulbs (with "frosted" plastic covers) and incandescent bulbs, but it hates fluorescent lights and CFL bulbs (especially with colored golf balls). Maybe its the type of lighting?
  11. I've bought (and sold) a lot of golf equipment. I pick up stuff just to try it, so long as I can make my money back (and then some) by breaking it down or flipping the it on eBay. I have a small eBay business and have probably bought and sold 50 iron sets and a few hundred individual clubs/graphite shafts in the last few years (if you think I'm full of it stalk my eBay seller's page)! I also have a skytrak in my garage. I'm saying all of this for context for the claim I'm about to make: I do not think it is not realistic to try to "Fit Yourself" - no matter how knowledgeable you are, you won't realistically have enough data, or equipment options to get it quite right. I have a friend who is just starting to take golf "seriously" and I was thinking about all this and what advice I would give him on the equipment side, with everything I know today, and this is what I think it would be: Take a few lessons, spend your money here first, then ask the coach if your swing is repeatable enough to benefit from a fitting IF SO - go do a full bag fitting at a top 100 fitter, there is a place near me that does them for $250, write down every detail of the fitting Be patient and pick up what you need at your leisure on eBay, from pro clubs, rock bottom, etc. Buy exactly what you were fit for (including the shaft/grip). OPTIONAL - If you are feeling thrifty; buy heads and shafts separate, or buy senior and lady shafts in the head you want (cheaper) and flip the bogus shafts, or buy the club you want with a premium shaft and flip that shaft, etc. Being scrappy with how you buy, and doing your own bending, grips, shaft installs, etc is what I call the "fleabay" approach below. Here's the cost breakdown for buying new after a fitting (RETAIL), buying slightly used/new not in box clubs (eBay) and being a scrappy mofo (Fleabay): You can save about $900 on a full bag of gear from the 1-2 most recent release cycles if you are patient and scrappy. BUT - what if $1,700 is STILL too much to spend on new sticks? My advice is find the part of your bag that you struggle with the most, and prioritize a fitting for just that part of the bag. Just note, if you are only going to address 1 section of the bag (driver for example), the discount most fitters give you for retail, might offset any benefit of going to eBay for that individual club (unless you are fit into an upgrade shaft, can catch a crazy deal, or are willing to be scrappy about it). You CAN get fit for, and buy a whole bag of used gear (older than 1-2 most recent release cycles) from a company like second swing, and could probably get a whole bag of gear and the fitting for under $1,000 - but not everyone has access to a second swing location, and there is (from what I hear) a very real difference between the quality of fitters, and fitting options going this route as opposed to going to a top 100 fitter for a trackman fitting on the latest and greatest gear. You CAN try to "fit yourself" with all used equipment, and save even more money. I think a lot of people start here, especially if saving money is more important than the performance of their gear. Just don't expect to get the most out of your gear, or your game by scrounging through buckets of whooped clubs at play it again sports. I've been there, done that, and cycled through more quality equipment than most people will get their hands on - it doesn't work, and at some point in your game it will hold you back. Lastly, you CAN also try to "fit yourself" with all new equipment at retail by hitting into a sim at golf galaxy, this is, in my opinion, the most expensive way to buy clubs that don't work for you. Do you need to get fit for the whole bag every year? NO! Just my opinion here, but unless you are an elite golfer or working through some big swing changes, the benefit you get from being fit from one year to the next will be marginal at best, and not worth the cost no matter how you buy the equipment. The flip side of the coin is, if you have NEVER been fit for anything in your bag, and your game is stable, you are leaving some strokes out there. My thinking has evolved on this in the last few years - I'm curious to hear other's thoughts on this!
  12. How does it roll with the ball placed in that small detent/drill hole? I've been putting down a 2" aluminum ruler and at first I was starting with the ball placed in the "nail hang" hole. What I noticed was that depending on how the dimples were resting in that hole, I could get some serious weird stuff happening (the ball would jump left or right, side spin, hops, and just strange things). It took me a while to realize that it was caused by placing the ball in that hole. I now just rest the ball on the dimples on a flat part of the ruler. The nail hole is much larger than on your project, but I was curious how it was working for you?
  13. I posted a WITB a few weeks ago, since then, I fired a lifetime low round. My putter was fire that round, the rest of my game was average for me, but what I did really well (I think) was apply a new game plan, or philosophy to my game. Here's my new philosophy, working from the green back: Get the putter FIRING: I got fit. It was expensive (between the fitting and the putter it was the most expensive "section" of my bag, and I didn't even go super premium), but has already made a huge difference. Start the ball on the darn line. This was a revelation for me from the forum, using homemade putting gates (and maybe exputt in the future?) are making a big difference. Be fearless. I was watching vintage Tiger, and in his prime he was fearless with putter in hand. My distance control has always been awesome, so I just need to get it on the green, and trust the putter. AIM for the MIDDLE of the green: I don't fire at pins any more. Unless I'm on the fringe, or putting from the fairway, I try to get the ball to stop in the fattest part of the green and trust the putter. I play the middle of the green number now. I use the arccos app and always try to match the carry yardage for my under 150yd shots to the middle of the green number. I think about under 150 yards as a "wedge" shot. I swapped in new irons with a focus on left to right dispersion, I play "better player" clubs through 6i and fire 80% effort shots to stick greens. Set up approach shots INTELLIGENTLY: Weigh risk and reward. If I'm over 150 yards, I'm not automatically firing at the green if a bad miss could kill me (water, certain bunkers, woods, etc). Set up to "happy" numbers. I stick way more greens on 40-60 yard wedge shots from the fairway with my aim for the middle philosophy, I set up to these numbers if I can't safely attack a 150+ approach. More head covers. I have 6 head covers in the bag including putter. I was more accurate left to right with one length long irons, but I control carry distance a thousand times better with hybrids and woods. It's more important for me (right now) to have a tolerable left to right dispersion but absolutely nail my carry distance for this part of the bag because I use it mainly for setting up approaches, not sticking greens. I have an iron shaft in my 5 hybrid for long par 3's that shoots dead straight laser beams. Keep the driver AUTOMATIC: Max forgiveness driver head. I'm playing a max forgiveness driver (according to MGS labs/testing), and it's made a difference. Finding fairways, not hitting bombs. I'm using an 80% swing with the only swing thought of relax. I even went down a flex from my previous gamer to match the easygoing swing. PUTTER: Ping Oslo Vault (stealth) // 35" factory double bend with Ping PP60 Grip WEDGES: Cleveland RTX4 // 56, 52 & 48 // Factory S400 Tour Issue with GP TV IRONS/"SLIGHTLY LONGER WEDGES": Callaway XR PRO // PW -> 6i // TT DG AMT X100 (feels exactly like my wedge shafts) HYBRIDS: Callaway X Hot Hybrid // 25* 5h // TT DG AMT X100 @ 38" (4i shaft) Adams Tight Lies 2.0 // 22* 4h // UST Axivcore Black 100g Regular Flex @ 39" (tipped) WOODS: Cobra LTD Fairway // 16* & 19* // UST Axivcore Black 79g Regular Flex both @ 41" (tipped) DRIVER: PXG 0811xf Gen 2 // 9.0 std hosel // UST Axivcore Blue 59g Regular Flex @ 44" (tipped) I'm pretty darn sure I'm going to break 80 with this set-up, despite how blasphemous it looks! So many head covers!
  14. When I do virtual golf with friends (skytrak + e6 connect) there is an option for putting, I select "player decides", then we typically putt it out on a practice mat and manually add the number of putts taken back into e6 connect. Flipping over to exputt to actually "putt it out" (at simulated distances over 10ft) would take things to a completely different level! Unfortunately, I think scores would also go up!
×
×
  • Create New...