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Grit Golf

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  1. Grit Golf

    Check - Go usage

    I just tried floating golf balls in water and epsom salt to see if the ball would fight to have one particular side float to the top (the theory is that that would mean the ball is out of balance). What I found was that 1/24 mid range balls (Srixon q star tour and cally super hot) were actually balanced. If the check go thing works, that means, in theory, that aligning them with a check go would make a difference. How much of a difference I can’t say at all. I tested a few urethane balls (pro v1 392 and top flite gamer tour) and they were almost all in balance, which I think means marking them w a check go wouldn’t really matter. Unless you are playing lift clean and place, playing an out of balance ball from the fairway on your second shot with the alignment line pointing the wrong way seems like it would hurt my confidence over that shot. I’ve never been a ball snob, but the balance test I did (however scientific it actually was) has me considering spending more per dozen.
  2. I’ve never been a ball snob until the most recent no putts given podcast. I usually play either Srixon Soft Feel or Srixon Q Star. The point the MGS guys made was about ball quality and consistency, which I’d never really considered. With that in mind I decided to test the Q Stars (my go to) to see how balanced they were by floating them in water and epsom salt (if the center of gravity isn’t in the center of the ball one side of the ball will always fight to float to the top). 0/12 of the Q star tours were in balance. For perspective, 1/12 Callaway superhots was in balance, 1/12 Srixon soft feels, and 9/12 Top Flite Gamer Urethane were in balance. It has me thinking about moving on from this price point!
  3. Joe / Cleveland Ohio Cleveland RTX4 60• (low)
  4. That's awesome that yours is rolling pure! My ruler has a .300" hole (not counter sunk) - either the extra 175 thou's in diameter, or the lack of a chamfered edge (probably both), definitely "grab" the ball. Just a heads-up for other DIY'ers!
  5. My skytrak (camera based) likes LED bulbs (with "frosted" plastic covers) and incandescent bulbs, but it hates fluorescent lights and CFL bulbs (especially with colored golf balls). Maybe its the type of lighting?
  6. I've bought (and sold) a lot of golf equipment. I pick up stuff just to try it, so long as I can make my money back (and then some) by breaking it down or flipping the it on eBay. I have a small eBay business and have probably bought and sold 50 iron sets and a few hundred individual clubs/graphite shafts in the last few years (if you think I'm full of it stalk my eBay seller's page)! I also have a skytrak in my garage. I'm saying all of this for context for the claim I'm about to make: I do not think it is not realistic to try to "Fit Yourself" - no matter how knowledgeable you are, you won't realistically have enough data, or equipment options to get it quite right. I have a friend who is just starting to take golf "seriously" and I was thinking about all this and what advice I would give him on the equipment side, with everything I know today, and this is what I think it would be: Take a few lessons, spend your money here first, then ask the coach if your swing is repeatable enough to benefit from a fitting IF SO - go do a full bag fitting at a top 100 fitter, there is a place near me that does them for $250, write down every detail of the fitting Be patient and pick up what you need at your leisure on eBay, from pro clubs, rock bottom, etc. Buy exactly what you were fit for (including the shaft/grip). OPTIONAL - If you are feeling thrifty; buy heads and shafts separate, or buy senior and lady shafts in the head you want (cheaper) and flip the bogus shafts, or buy the club you want with a premium shaft and flip that shaft, etc. Being scrappy with how you buy, and doing your own bending, grips, shaft installs, etc is what I call the "fleabay" approach below. Here's the cost breakdown for buying new after a fitting (RETAIL), buying slightly used/new not in box clubs (eBay) and being a scrappy mofo (Fleabay): You can save about $900 on a full bag of gear from the 1-2 most recent release cycles if you are patient and scrappy. BUT - what if $1,700 is STILL too much to spend on new sticks? My advice is find the part of your bag that you struggle with the most, and prioritize a fitting for just that part of the bag. Just note, if you are only going to address 1 section of the bag (driver for example), the discount most fitters give you for retail, might offset any benefit of going to eBay for that individual club (unless you are fit into an upgrade shaft, can catch a crazy deal, or are willing to be scrappy about it). You CAN get fit for, and buy a whole bag of used gear (older than 1-2 most recent release cycles) from a company like second swing, and could probably get a whole bag of gear and the fitting for under $1,000 - but not everyone has access to a second swing location, and there is (from what I hear) a very real difference between the quality of fitters, and fitting options going this route as opposed to going to a top 100 fitter for a trackman fitting on the latest and greatest gear. You CAN try to "fit yourself" with all used equipment, and save even more money. I think a lot of people start here, especially if saving money is more important than the performance of their gear. Just don't expect to get the most out of your gear, or your game by scrounging through buckets of whooped clubs at play it again sports. I've been there, done that, and cycled through more quality equipment than most people will get their hands on - it doesn't work, and at some point in your game it will hold you back. Lastly, you CAN also try to "fit yourself" with all new equipment at retail by hitting into a sim at golf galaxy, this is, in my opinion, the most expensive way to buy clubs that don't work for you. Do you need to get fit for the whole bag every year? NO! Just my opinion here, but unless you are an elite golfer or working through some big swing changes, the benefit you get from being fit from one year to the next will be marginal at best, and not worth the cost no matter how you buy the equipment. The flip side of the coin is, if you have NEVER been fit for anything in your bag, and your game is stable, you are leaving some strokes out there. My thinking has evolved on this in the last few years - I'm curious to hear other's thoughts on this!
  7. How does it roll with the ball placed in that small detent/drill hole? I've been putting down a 2" aluminum ruler and at first I was starting with the ball placed in the "nail hang" hole. What I noticed was that depending on how the dimples were resting in that hole, I could get some serious weird stuff happening (the ball would jump left or right, side spin, hops, and just strange things). It took me a while to realize that it was caused by placing the ball in that hole. I now just rest the ball on the dimples on a flat part of the ruler. The nail hole is much larger than on your project, but I was curious how it was working for you?
  8. I posted a WITB a few weeks ago, since then, I fired a lifetime low round. My putter was fire that round, the rest of my game was average for me, but what I did really well (I think) was apply a new game plan, or philosophy to my game. Here's my new philosophy, working from the green back: Get the putter FIRING: I got fit. It was expensive (between the fitting and the putter it was the most expensive "section" of my bag, and I didn't even go super premium), but has already made a huge difference. Start the ball on the darn line. This was a revelation for me from the forum, using homemade putting gates (and maybe exputt in the future?) are making a big difference. Be fearless. I was watching vintage Tiger, and in his prime he was fearless with putter in hand. My distance control has always been awesome, so I just need to get it on the green, and trust the putter. AIM for the MIDDLE of the green: I don't fire at pins any more. Unless I'm on the fringe, or putting from the fairway, I try to get the ball to stop in the fattest part of the green and trust the putter. I play the middle of the green number now. I use the arccos app and always try to match the carry yardage for my under 150yd shots to the middle of the green number. I think about under 150 yards as a "wedge" shot. I swapped in new irons with a focus on left to right dispersion, I play "better player" clubs through 6i and fire 80% effort shots to stick greens. Set up approach shots INTELLIGENTLY: Weigh risk and reward. If I'm over 150 yards, I'm not automatically firing at the green if a bad miss could kill me (water, certain bunkers, woods, etc). Set up to "happy" numbers. I stick way more greens on 40-60 yard wedge shots from the fairway with my aim for the middle philosophy, I set up to these numbers if I can't safely attack a 150+ approach. More head covers. I have 6 head covers in the bag including putter. I was more accurate left to right with one length long irons, but I control carry distance a thousand times better with hybrids and woods. It's more important for me (right now) to have a tolerable left to right dispersion but absolutely nail my carry distance for this part of the bag because I use it mainly for setting up approaches, not sticking greens. I have an iron shaft in my 5 hybrid for long par 3's that shoots dead straight laser beams. Keep the driver AUTOMATIC: Max forgiveness driver head. I'm playing a max forgiveness driver (according to MGS labs/testing), and it's made a difference. Finding fairways, not hitting bombs. I'm using an 80% swing with the only swing thought of relax. I even went down a flex from my previous gamer to match the easygoing swing. PUTTER: Ping Oslo Vault (stealth) // 35" factory double bend with Ping PP60 Grip WEDGES: Cleveland RTX4 // 56, 52 & 48 // Factory S400 Tour Issue with GP TV IRONS/"SLIGHTLY LONGER WEDGES": Callaway XR PRO // PW -> 6i // TT DG AMT X100 (feels exactly like my wedge shafts) HYBRIDS: Callaway X Hot Hybrid // 25* 5h // TT DG AMT X100 @ 38" (4i shaft) Adams Tight Lies 2.0 // 22* 4h // UST Axivcore Black 100g Regular Flex @ 39" (tipped) WOODS: Cobra LTD Fairway // 16* & 19* // UST Axivcore Black 79g Regular Flex both @ 41" (tipped) DRIVER: PXG 0811xf Gen 2 // 9.0 std hosel // UST Axivcore Blue 59g Regular Flex @ 44" (tipped) I'm pretty darn sure I'm going to break 80 with this set-up, despite how blasphemous it looks! So many head covers!
  9. When I do virtual golf with friends (skytrak + e6 connect) there is an option for putting, I select "player decides", then we typically putt it out on a practice mat and manually add the number of putts taken back into e6 connect. Flipping over to exputt to actually "putt it out" (at simulated distances over 10ft) would take things to a completely different level! Unfortunately, I think scores would also go up!
  10. I scheduled a putting lesson at a place near me with SAM Putt Lab (shout to Windmill Golf Center in NE Ohio, a top 100 fitter for just about everything). I’ve never had a putting lesson or a putter fitting, and need some help starting the ball on the right line. I got there a few minutes early and warmed up. When the instructor got there I showed him my arccos putting stats, and told him about how I was struggling to hit the ball on the line. I let him know I was trying to determine if there was an equipment problem or a mechanics problem (or both). I told him about how I’d been working on my starting line with gates and the only way I’ve found success was by really steering the club through the impact area in a straight line with my wrists to avoid the face closing down. He watched me hit 6 putts and said, “that putter doesn’t work for you.” My gamer putter up to this point was a 33” face balanced blade, he explained how the shorter shaft length was putting me in too compressed of a stance with my eyes over the toe of the putter. He also explained how face balanced blades don’t do much to resist the face from closing down. Lastly, he explained that just being so low in a shorter stance was creating a smaller “pendulum,” which introduces a slight bit more arc to my stroke. All of those pieces together were getting in the way of the task I was trying to perform (straight back straight through), forcing me to compensate by steering the putter head. He left to grab another putter, and I remember thinking wow! He listened carefully, diagnosed my putting exactly, and explained it back to me in a way that made complete sense. I glanced at my phone, we were 7 minutes into the session. He came back with a 35” Ping Vault Oslo (face balanced, double bend mallet with a long single alignment line) with a similar grip to my old gamer. The first few putts rolled slightly right of my target (which was new)! Then I stopped steering and the ball started dropping. I sank 4/5 8 foot putts without having to steer the putter, it was just 1) line up 2) set up and 3) stroke. He noticed I was delivering the putter toe up and bent it flat and I filled up the practice cup with balls from 8ft twice without missing a putt. I walked in not wanting to spend 3 bills on a new putter, so I asked to try some comparable models from Cleveland, Odyssey, and TaylorMade. Nothing else was quite right and every time I went back to the Ping it was automatic. We spent the rest of the time on ladder drills, the circle of death drill, and on some long breakers. If the results I had in the fitting hold up on the course my handicap is going to drop like a rock! Good fitters can literally be game changers, but be prepared to open up the checkbook!
  11. If you are excessively in to out it can be hard to make good contact (lots of fats and tops) because you will bottom out near your back foot. Even if you do manage good contact you will be hitting up on the ball which will kill your distance. I was +2 to +4 AoA with my irons when I was 6 to 8 degrees in to out, which means the club was on the way up before it got to the ball, that’s worth 10-20 yards if your swing speed is the same in the new pattern. You also might lose clubhead speed figuring out the new pattern, especially if you are releasing out in front of you, or up and away from you (instead of pulling down and around you). I went through this exact thing over the course of a few years (2 up while I was out to in, then 2 flat while I was in to out, now standard but 1/2 short). Irons are now the strength of my game. Id go see a fitter and make sure you tell them what swing change you’re working through!
  12. I did a Krank golf marketing survey where they were asking specifically about how golfers felt about nonconforming equipment. I guess enough people must have said they would play it outside of tournament conditions (let’s be honest, most golfers never play in a tournament), that they went ahead and made it. I’m in the camp of whatever makes the game fun is good for the game. With my best drives rolling out to 250 total, id be interested in trying a Krank X. I would have to remove those rounds from my arccos stats to not feel like a fraud, but if it was worth 10 yards or more it could be fun to mess around with.
  13. I agree with this. On the course I’m 2-3mph slower On average based on carry distance than my best shots after warming up on a sim, the case for dropping down makes a lot of sense. I’m also in between Regular and Stiff for most shafts. With the speeder, stiff actually gives me a little more clubhead speed because I tend to pour a little more into it, but when I do, my dispersion gets worse. I ended up adding weight to the head (8g) to soften the stiff flex up to like a R+. The extra head weight Isn’t for everyone but I like it.
  14. For anyone following along, I used arccos to determine my putting sucked. A few sages in the community schooled me on the value of face control and starting the ball on the right line as one skill to work on. Before starting, my arccos putting handicap was 25.7. After working on it for about a week (with some pro help along the way) this is what I posted: That’s pretty encouraging! I got more than my fair share to drop today, and need to keep working on it, but to be perfectly clear, starting the ball on the line is a specific skill and if you’ve never actually focused on that specific skill, you are almost certainly leaving strokes on the table. I DEFINITELY was. This is the best round of my life and this is the easiest way I’ve ever hacked strokes off my game by a very large margin! Now, where’s that coupon code for ExPutt?!
  15. The only time I’ve seen driver shafts actually work their way loose is when the tip of the shaft wasn’t sanded below the paint. Epoxy doesn’t stick to slick painted and polished surfaces as well as it does porous, abraded tips! its probably the fertile moving on you. If you can get the ferrule to move you can always use regular old superglue to hold it back in place, it works great for that.
  16. Also, I know True Temper has been a stock shaft for prett much every oem, have they ever done a constant weight Dynamic Gold -esque offering in a 370 hosel?
  17. A few months ago I bought Cleveland RTX4 wedges with the stock tour issue S400 shafts. I was planning on pulling the shafts and swapping in my KBS gamers from my previous set but I’m loving the S400. I’m gaming a 48* RTX4 and using it 75% of the time for full swings, and I’m striping this thing. This shaft cues up something good for me, but it unfortunately doesn’t blend well into my c tapers, the more time I spend hitting one the worse the other feels. Anyway, I’m thinking about testing S300 or X100 Dynamic Gold in the irons, the problem is, the 2 heads I would game are both .370 parallel. I know I could shim .355s, but are there any other ways to do this? I saw the .370 option for DGs is a tip trim to flex, which I’m not crazy about due to the difference in weight as you go up through the set. I know Nippons have a .370 option that is constant weight (you order each shaft pw through 5i for example and they are butt cut only and all weigh the same). How well would a Modus 3 130 stiff blend into S400 in the irons? Other ideas on making .355 work in a .370 that are less bubba than shims and shafting beads?
  18. I said path but meant face angle. Thanks for the tips!
  19. @cnosil @alfriday101 @deauxrite @BMart519 @aerospace_ray Can I bug those of you who have worked on path? When I first started working on path, I couldn't get a single ball to roll cleanly through the gate set at 0.5 degrees of error. On day 1, I changed my grip and went back to an older putter, and since then have slowly started to find something. Here's where I ended up today after a few hours of conference calls: < 1 degree of error: 10/10 < 0.75 degree of error: 7/10 < 0.5 degree of error: 5/10 There is no pattern to the misses, they are 50/50 missing left and right. At 0.5 degrees of error there are no "gross" misses, ie, I'm grazing or just bouncing off the inside of the gate, not slamming into the front of the gate. I have some arc in my stroke, and it feels like the misses are caused by finding the ball just a hair outside of the middle of my putting stroke (where the face is square) but I can't back that with any data. Also, to eliminate variables, there's no "break" in the ruler where I have it set up for practice, ie, if I put the ball in the middle of the gate at 17", it runs off the middle of the ruler at 48". The old putter is a Ping Anser TR 5 (face balanced/straight stroke blade type putter). Would SAM Putt Lab (or something similar) be worthwhile at this point, or should I just keep running drills and figuring it out to get the most out of that session?
  20. Another thing to consider with Bryson’s wedges is he went to single length (with 10 degree upright lie angles) as a collegiate golfer, one of the reasons he cited at the time was that one length + the 10* upright put him in an upright plane that alleviated tightness in his lower back. Going with shorter length clubs, or flatter lie angles may be off the table completely for him if he thinks it could lead to or even contribute to an injury. I don’t know anything about biomechanics or sports therapy etc, but there is a fitter who has a partnership with Cobra selling 39”, upright lie, one length irons specifically for golfers w lower back problems, so there may be something to it? Another thing I have been curious about with him is, why are the irons 10 up, but the driver isnt? It seems like he is trying to keep the exact same spine angle for every club in the bag (driver down to wedges) and the only way to keep a driver spine angle in your wedges is to lengthen them and stand them up 10 degrees? If he is designing his golf swing with a specific spine angle locked in as a constraint, you will never see standard wedges in his bag. I don’t really know enough about it to say for sure, so please school me on it if I’m way off base.
  21. I’m going to blindly rely on the arccos handicap (right or wrong) to highlight my own strengths or weaknesses for the time being. I’m a database admin in my day job, and making a data project out of my slap *** putting sounds horrible, to each their own though!
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