Grit Golf

Mine went blank 3-4 days before it shipped! Hope yours is deivered soon. I NEVER would’ve considered PXG before the sale. This thing is rock solid, it’s changed my perception of the brand entirely. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I saw a set of Lamkin REL ACE 3G with the reminder aka ribbing built in. I like that grip, but I’ve never tried the reminder grips so I thought I’d simulate it the old Ben Hogan way, by building up under the grip, before I bought anything. Here’s how to do a semi professional job, without buying anything you don’t have laying around in your regripping station (we all have one right)? 1. Find some zip ties that are around 0.035” thickness (USGA states the max size for reminder ribs is .04”, w tape, you’ll be there) 2. Cut the zip ties to 1/2 short of your installed grip length (NOTE: if your not installing all grips to a measured install length you’re doing it wrong, IMHO). 3. Apply 2 sided tape on the shaft, Mark with sharpie where the ridge will go, then lay the zip tie against the tape. 4. If you use air and reuse grips, cover the zip tie and 2 sided tape with masking tape/build up tape. If you install with solvent. Add another layer of 2 sided tape. 5. Throw your grip on. You can see the slight ridge here. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I’ve tried just about everything and keep coming back to GP your velvet and Lamkin REL ACE. I install my grips with no tape, stretched to 10.5” (undersized). I just bought a PXG driver and it came with the PXG Z5 (logoed up lamkin z5) grip. I love the bottom hand grip alignment lines and REL ACE pattern under the top hand. If I can catch a deal on a set I may buy em! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I’ve been using a country club elite mat (caught a deal on a used 5x4 on fleaBay) for 2+ years. It provides great feedback for fat shots (mat first contact), and it penalizes you pretty harshly for chunking one on virtual golf, which I like (for the sake of practicing). Here’s my problem, the mat also punishes my left wrist on good shots (ball first contact) where the divot would be in front of the ball. Anyone have feedback on a practice mat that will give feedback for fats but doesn’t give as bad stingers as the CCE? Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I agree, he’s still vain, but I think his vanity is the reflection in the launch monitor, not the mirror. He wants to win, and even though the guy bounces from inspiring to annoying the **** out of me, nobody can say he isn’t out there to compete and win. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

The convergence of downtime from actual golf (Covid), extended “end of product cycle” discounts, and MyGolfSpy forum enlightenment has led me to shake up my bag. Here’s the net-net: NEW: 1. PXG Driver: the 0811XF Gen 2 (their max forgiveness model) was added. Unheard of PXG discounting, MGS CG/MOI data, an Arccos reality check, and forum enlightenment put me on the path of max head stability and forgiveness! 2. Wedge Refresh: Out with the 48/54/60 CBX and in with 48/52/56 RTX4. An emphasis on getting the ball rolling gleaned from the lower cap spies is my main motivator, and I have Arccos dats to back up the improvement. OLD: 1. Woods: I’m going back to oldie but goodie Cobra LTD 15* 3w and 19* 5w, both wearing familiar shafts (OG Grafalloy Tour Blue, UST Mamiya Proforce Axivcore Black 79). I’m giving up razzle dazzle in the tech department in this part of the bag for maximum reliability and confidence. 2. Hookers: I’m adding a 22* 4 hybrid, my old Adams Tight Lies. This is the only hybrid that isn’t left going left for me, and I’m taking a lesson from Arccos and the LPGA in carry consistency by swapping this out for my 4i. UNCHANGED 1. One Length: Cobra F7 P-6i wearing C Taper 120 will be hard to kick out of the bag. I’ve had more 4ft birdie putts with these than I deserve, and can lean on these clubs. 2. 5 Iron: I’m gaming an F8 one 5i, it was a confidence club off the tee on par 3s but it’s misbehaved, if it continues to, it may get the boot! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

My driver came today! It’s not the best packaging in the game, but it was HALF PRICE, and I’m ripping it! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I was skeptical, but I think he’s a better golfer after the bulk up/added club speed. His mechanics are ugly but he’s also automatic with everything except for around the green. It’ll be interesting to watch, but he’ll be a fedex leader if he stays in the top 10 the way he has so far. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

With the current median driving distance on the LPGA at 253yards, I find that my distance lines up pretty squarely w that tour (and definitely does not line up with the PGA, unfortunately). For mere mortals like me, it seems like the WITB for LPGA players has a better chance to apply to my game than PGA WITB. Does anybody look at this content or have a good source for it? Any thoughts on the intel that could be gained because LPGA players are typically not bound by as strict equipment contracts as PGA? After a few minutes there is an interesting top of the bag trend: 15* 3w / 18* 5w / 22* 4h 17* 4w / 20* 3h / 23* 4h It makes me think the smart move for my swing speed is to add more “headcovers”. Seeing elite LPGA ballstrikers gaming hybrids deep into the bag has me wondering why I’m gaming low lofted irons! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I fight a hook in the hybrids too, but I’m actually re-evaluating adding one, but with a slightly different idea. Instead of a hybrid in the 16-19 degree with a graphite shaft, which I’ve tried in the past, I’m thinking of trying something in the 22-23 degree w an iron shaft. Arccos is showing my distance control in my low irons is poor (due to contact mostly), I think I’d have more carry distance consistency from the extra help in a hybrid. I also think a hybrid in that slot would hold a green better than the equivalent iron, so I’m gonna give it a try. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I play noticeably better w the Z Star off the tee! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I’m in NE Ohio and don’t play a glove. We had a 90+ degree 100% humidity day here last week and I literally couldn’t hold the face square through my swing, sweaty hands kill your confidence. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

^^^ that’s me. I definitely generate more speed in irons in proportion to what I should be able to get out of driver. My high end for 4i (one length) on course (Arccos) is 230 yards. Skytrak can back that up at 210 carry 220 total for good shots. I usually lose a tiny bit of distance from the same degree head in a wood (Cobra Ltd 41.5” 19* 5w), but like the spin and descent angle better for holding greens so I rotate them. I can’t confirm club head speed (skytrak doesn’t measure it), but I think my club head speed w a 41.5” 65g graphite shafted wood is about the same or slightly less than a 37” 4 iron w a c taper 120. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

That is scary low, gives me the yips just looking at it. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I commented on the Charles Schwab thread, I like the Collin Morikawa / Xander Shauffele -VS- the Bryson DeChambeau / Matt Wolff strategy conversation that is starting to bubble up. There are two archetypes now emerging and its kind of nice to see an alternative to all out distance for winning tournaments proving itself out. With that said, Morikawa’s average drive is 297yards (that ranks him 112th), which is still completely unrelatable for amateurs, so he’s not exactly short off the tee, but he’s also not sniffing 200mph ball speed, so it’s all relative. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Hi Spies, I’ve been gaming Cleveland CBX (1.0) and am changing up my lofts (ditching the 60, going to 4 degree gaps). I didn’t get fit (but I did demo) RTX4, and just pulled the trigger on: 48• Mid 52• Mid 56• Full W stock “tour issue” S400. The 56 came first, I took it out and I’ve never had more control of my short game. I absolutely love this thing, I’m totally blown away. Anybody else gaming RTX4 who is beyond the honeymoon period and still loving it? Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Cleveland RTX4 XLow grind is about as low as I’ve ever hit, it’s easy to open up off a tight lie, but the bounce is too low for the conditions I typically play in. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I'm starting a Jason Kokrak fan club. This was an awesome round out of him! If he keeps that putter hot this season it could be a breakout year! Also - I loved seeing both Bryson Dechambeau and Collin Morikawa in the hunt. Whether they want to or not, they are the 2 young players that to me best embody two very different possible future styles for the game at the pro level. Next to 160lb Collin, Bryson looks like he should be playing a different sport entirely. Collin's iron swing is smooth as silk while Bryson looks like a caveman killing his lunch. They couldn't look any different, and yet they were within strokes at the highest level of golf. That will be a fun narrative to play out, sort of like a Lebron James vs Steph Curry thing. Golf is back!

Windmill is my go to. The teaching staff (esp Randy Dietz) are amazing. Their fitting tech and team (esp Trent Maxwell) are second to none. Their custom work and repairs (shout out to Alex in the workshop) are amazing. This place is my home base for golf, and the main reason I’m not a max handicap. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Weird! No he was hitting a 40yd shot out of the rough and definitely found the ground after the ball, but the club came through and he even finished his swing before he was like “WTH?” He ended up w a pretty decent shot and a ruined shaft. I’ve repaired a decent amount of clubs and that was a first for me. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I thought you nailed it, I just wanted to add the extra color!

Milling is both difficult and expensive. There are no diy or garage shop options that are cheaper than $3-5,000 (used), in that price range it will be an older manual mill with step motors retrofitted (fussy to run). A commercial setup would be $20-100k. That doesn’t include the cost of tooling (the end mills that cut metal) or any custom work holding or the cost of materials (cutting fluid, steel). It also doesn’t include software, which can be free if you like to tinker or as expensive as the machine. I have a small diy CNC mill that can cut aluminum. It’s a fun hobby but it takes a ton of fiddling. Operating a CNC professionally is a highly skilled trade similar to welding. Another thing you may be overlooking is that not only do you need a cad file of the part, but you also need to convert that cad to the “instructions” for the CNC mill (in gcode typically). There is free software that can do that conversion but the free ones require babysitting and or inline editing of the code in my experience. You also have to consider that your putter probably has no “flat” side. That means that the mill has to run at least 2 operations. 1 on the part face up, then the part has to be inserted into custom work holding, and the mill re-zero’ed, and the 2nd operation is then cut face down. If you didn’t design the part with CNC manufacture in mind, it very likely may take more steps than that. The reason you would get high quotes for low volume is because the machine company has to invest in the work holding, and the “strategy” for how to cut your part with no volume to amortize that cost against. If you want a steel prototype, find a shop that does steel 3D printing, it will be cheaper (still not cheap). From a materials science perspective the grain structure of 3D printed is every bit as good as forged. If you have a super high moi design (high volume part that would be overweight in steel) that could be made out of aluminum, 3D print the part in pla and cast it in aluminum via lost investment greensand casting! Best of luck! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Was that a TT DG S300 shaft by any chance? The exact same thing happened to my buddies wedge yesterday. We assumed the shaft had to be rusted out under the grip and I was super surprised to find it had no sign of corrosion. It was a TT DG S300 in an ‘09 Adam’s head. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

45 yards from the rough, especially if there’s some slope, maybe trees, maybe an awkward lies is not better than 100 yards from the fairway for my game. Tour player short game does not translate to my 16 handicap unfortunately. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

I used to have a 6’ firepit that my wife wanted to move closer to the treeline in the backyard. When the pit moved it left a 6’ gravel circle in the backyard. I macguyvered a “bubba” chipping green from an old stance mat from my now gone optishot setup and a cheap putting mat. Each panel was sewed together by hand with a carpet needle and heavy duty nylon thread. I can’t say it’s improved my game, it’s actually devilishly difficult to always be short-sided, but it’s nearly a “to scale” green complex for the kiddos, and all in cost was $0. It’s also made for a few fun drinking games w the neighbor! Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy